I Just picked up my new motor today...a dek with 120 actual miles! IT looks brand new!! all the bolts a still shiny as can be. If I can get my hands on a digital cam ima take some pics! I took the oil cap off..It it soo clean i would guess there wasnt every any oil in it if not for the oil in the oil pan that looks brand new! I cant wait to get it in. Should be in tomorrow, I already have mine out just a couple questions.

1. How to break it in, and for how long?
2. are the exhaust manifolds the same 95-01? like will my wrpsd y bolt up to the dek manifolds?
3. Can I remove egr completely? where to get the egr pipe hole in the rear exhaust manifold plugged? muffler shop?
4. Are there suppose to be gaskets between y pipe and exhaust manifolds?
5. Anything I should know when trying to start it for the first time in like 6 years?

Thanks guys!

 

#1- change the oil every 500 miles for the next 1500 miles, and drive it normal. a little baby'ing, a little hard on it, just try to expose it to all the scenarios from now.
#2- if its a fed spec DEK then yes. Cali spec as you might know have that weird front manifold with the precat in it as oppsed to in the ypipe as in Fed Spec (FYI all 2001 motors are cali spec- you didnt specify wat year DEK you had so I'll throw it out there anyways).
#3- Yes you can, but some people get the CEL for it, no biggie. Yes any muffler shop can plug up that hole
#4- not gaskets, theres metal rings that fall into the grooves on the top of the ypipe
#5- crank the motor over with the CPS disconnected (so it doesnt start)- point is to prime the oil pump and get some oil up into the heads and valves prior to the actual first start

Best of luck and have fun

 

So drive it on the nice side for 1500 miles, maybe dont go over like 4k? I have a brand new clutch I have to break in anyway.

is the cps the sensor on the side of the timing case or the one where the bellhousing and block meet?

I believe the motor is a 2000 fed spec, there were no swirl valves that I saw from the exterior but I havent taken the upper off yet, and the exhaust manifolds look almost exact to my 95's.

I bought the metal rings from autozone for the y pipe but my y pipe doesnt have the groves for it to go it?

Now for tuning I have been looking at a vafc2 and an lc 1. also using the vafc2 to open up the vi. is that a good idea? that set up. because after putting on my full 2.5in exhaust I got a mad backfire...and I dont like it, want to fix it.

 

- No, dont be nice to it thats the point. Expose the motor now to all scenarios (of course not taking it overboard and bouncing it off redline, but dont spoil it either) Either way you'll HAVE to baby it for a good 500 miles for the clutch to break in properly before you can have some fun with it.

- There's 2 CPS, one by the crank pulley, the other by the bellhousing/oilpan. Disconnecting either one will do the same for this.

- Fed Spec FTW

- wtfmate? My WS Ypipe has grooves in it for the rings, that's weird

- You're looking into a great tuning option, go for it

 

I bet your ypipe has the old rings stuck in it.

 

ill check..but im pretty sure it was flat machined metal on the ypipe.. Gotcha on the not to spoil it.

 

thats what i was gonna say...i think they crush in there and flatten out.

 

I believe you guys were right, thanks!

 

How much did you get the motor for ??
How did you confirm the Mileage was correct ??

I dont have an EGR and no codes. Just have the rear manifold taken off the motor and go somewhere to have that peice cut off and welded up. The vac lines have to re-routed and some plugged up. The temp sensor for the EGR valve does need to be pluged into the harness but can lay in the engine bay. I have it taped up, laying down by the knock sensor so it stays warm. The vac lines do take some time but be patient.

-matt

 

I ran a vin check and then was going to check the esn # but the motor was sitll in the car. So I decided I didnt need too. Tha thing is SOO clean inside and out! oh and I paid $650 for the motor and $100 for shipping. so $750 total!

So I got the old rings outta tha y pipe and got the new ones in, yall were right! thanks!

Got the motor in yesterday and went to start it with one cps unplugged to get oil in the top of the motor, plugged it in and NO start. I smelled gas and had a tiny hole in the line I fixed..still no start. Double checked grounds, and ran wire directly to ground on battery..no start. It is still making same noise as it did with the cps unplugged on timing case that is plugged in now. So I swapped cps sensors on the block with the one on my de and she started right up!! It was making a wicked awful sound in the timing case area like clicking..ticking which I wasnt liking but eventually after a couple mins went away mostly.

After a couple mins I check under the car and have a leak..my tranny is leaking out of the passenger side axle seal it wasnt before the swap..or atleast I didnt notice it so im gonna check that today. my egr is still on the car but not hooked up all the way, apparently the sensor in the 5th gen is different from the one in the 4th gen. but I lost the 4th gen sensor

I will have more updates later. I also have a new starter and clutch. but I leave to go back up to school tomorrow so I will save the new cv axles and possibly new tranny for then..thinking about an 01 vlsd or lsd I still dont know the difference or which is better. I also will be doing new motor mounts then.

Matty what did you torque your pp to?

 

VLSD is viscous LSD, basically like a torque converter, the two plates freewheel until they are spinning fast enough to up the viscosity in the liquid, at which point they are joined.

LSD is a catch-all, including HLSD, VLSD, etc.

 

so I tried driving the car today.. makes funny noises. I didnt hit over 3k driving or 4k reving. my car stayed in second gear all the way home because I have a leaking slave cylinder line. car will be sitting in the driveway til nissan gets that part wed. I picked up a pass. axle seal 4 tha tranny and need to still get a rear motor mount. Then I will take her out on the highway and see how the tranny and new engine hold up at 70-80 mph. once I feel comfortable I will take a couple hundered mile trip to just see how things feel/work b4 I drive the 8 hours up to school in it.

 

the white powered DE-K is almost back!


the swap went a lot faster this time around huh?

 

haha oh yeah, I made sure everything was torqued unlike last time! and since this was like my 3rd motor swap in the last 6 months it's getting a lot more routine. lol. anyone around atlanta need help? lol!