8000RPM reliable shortblock
12-05-2006, 02:28 PM
#1
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8000RPM reliable shortblock
Because of hood cleareance, excessive electrical crap, $$$$ and different bellhousing and transmission, I doubt I will ever have a VQ35HR in my car (the extra 3.5 inches of block height or so is just way too much). I would have to rework my entire setup, everything from ECU to exhaust, to having a HUGE hood. So I'm crossing the HR swap off my list of "to do" stuff.
At this point it's all wishful thinking (it could be 2 years from now), but what the heck. How about this for a safe, not ridiculously expensive way to build a high RPM, reliable NA shortblock:
Regular '02-'06 VQ35DE FWD block
Stock crank
Crower forged chromemoly rods (lighter than billet steel eagle rods)
ARP rod bolts
Stock VQ35HR 10.6:1 pistons
That's it. I really think the HR pistons are a good idea. Nissan has reduced mass/weight/size on these things to a point that it's hardly possible to do any better. It's a reliability thing. I have this fear that if I get aftermarket pistons, they will go oval in no time. I rather have the best stock pistons that Nissan offers.
What I don't know is what precisely needs to be done to the stock heads to rev 8000 or more. I've read the valvetrain starts straining around 7400 rpms.
At this point it's all wishful thinking (it could be 2 years from now), but what the heck. How about this for a safe, not ridiculously expensive way to build a high RPM, reliable NA shortblock:
Regular '02-'06 VQ35DE FWD block
Stock crank
Crower forged chromemoly rods (lighter than billet steel eagle rods)
ARP rod bolts
Stock VQ35HR 10.6:1 pistons
That's it. I really think the HR pistons are a good idea. Nissan has reduced mass/weight/size on these things to a point that it's hardly possible to do any better. It's a reliability thing. I have this fear that if I get aftermarket pistons, they will go oval in no time. I rather have the best stock pistons that Nissan offers.
What I don't know is what precisely needs to be done to the stock heads to rev 8000 or more. I've read the valvetrain starts straining around 7400 rpms.
12-05-2006, 03:40 PM
#2
It looks like you are going for the biggest displacement but a VQ20 or VQ23 crank and rods? setup would rev high with no issue. A shorter stroke is the way to go.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....de#post2944550
Maybe you remember this post: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=vq23de
PM SR20DEN about his VQ30DE-B
As for the heads you need different valve springs that will stay seated at higher RPM's. Valve float is the issue with those higher RPM's and you dont want that.
Also make sure you get an oil pump that can take the speed.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....de#post2944550
Maybe you remember this post: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=vq23de
PM SR20DEN about his VQ30DE-B
As for the heads you need different valve springs that will stay seated at higher RPM's. Valve float is the issue with those higher RPM's and you dont want that.
Also make sure you get an oil pump that can take the speed.
12-05-2006, 03:52 PM
#4
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Yes I have looked into this. But in order to keep the displacement up I'd need to get the block sleeved and custom pistons ($$$$).
But yes destroking is certainly "the" way to rev. For example:
VQ30DET crank and Forged rods
VQ35DE block
101.5 mm sleeves
Custom pistons
That would give a high revving VQ36DE using a 73.3 mm stroke.
But I think staying with stock crank and bore is a safer and cheaper way to go. I don't think the rod/stroke ratio on the VQ35 is a problem until very, very high beyond stock rev range. Yes the 3.0L has an even shorter stroke (and even shorter on the VQ23) but if an 81.4 mm stroke is not too much for the rev range we want, why not use it and bump displacement by 0.3L? The other reason is that VQ35 forged rods are plentiful and relatively cheap by now.
But yes destroking is certainly "the" way to rev. For example:
VQ30DET crank and Forged rods
VQ35DE block
101.5 mm sleeves
Custom pistons
That would give a high revving VQ36DE using a 73.3 mm stroke.
But I think staying with stock crank and bore is a safer and cheaper way to go. I don't think the rod/stroke ratio on the VQ35 is a problem until very, very high beyond stock rev range. Yes the 3.0L has an even shorter stroke (and even shorter on the VQ23) but if an 81.4 mm stroke is not too much for the rev range we want, why not use it and bump displacement by 0.3L? The other reason is that VQ35 forged rods are plentiful and relatively cheap by now.
12-05-2006, 03:59 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by MaxBlack97
I thought the '02 VQ35de stops making power at about 7000k anyway?
We're strictly talking about the strength to physically rev to 8000 or more, and do so reliably and continually.
Originally Posted by JSutter
Also make sure you get an oil pump that can take the speed.
12-05-2006, 04:47 PM
#6
Are you going to use a stand alone to get to the 8000 rpm range? I think what your doing is great.
As far as the head go, I would look at stronger valve springs. IIRC SR20DEN said that the VQ35 valve springs are not even stiffer than the VQ30DE. But I may be wrong. Regardless, look into valve springs.
As far as the head go, I would look at stronger valve springs. IIRC SR20DEN said that the VQ35 valve springs are not even stiffer than the VQ30DE. But I may be wrong. Regardless, look into valve springs.
12-05-2006, 04:55 PM
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I am just throwing ideas around. I know for a fact that my 240 is not getting anything other than the stock 3.5+nismo cams & ARP rod bolts for at least 1.5 years. I'm feeling the water for when it's time to change the setup. It's just that I'm an NA guy mostly and I don't see myself boosting this setup ever. The car is so light, it would be a death wish.
12-05-2006, 05:13 PM
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The ARP rod bolts are said to be "safe" to 7200 RPMs on an otherwise totally stock motor. Not only are they stronger than the stock rod bolts by a good amount (not sure by how much), but I've heard that the stock rod bolts from the factory are torqued a little so-so.
IMO the insurance of putting in the stronger rod bolts AND correctly torquing them yourself per the FSM is more than worth it for the ~130$US that the rod bolts cost. I am definately doing this to my stock motor and setting the rev limiter to a somewhat conservative 7000 flat at first, and eventually 7300 RPMs TOPS if I see the setup could gain from the extra 300 rpms.
But 7200-7300 is as high as I want to go with only rod bolts, even though SR20DEN said he occasionally saw 7500 w/ just ARP rod bolts, and Krismax told me he saw 7500 daily when he had his JWT ecu, and went to 8000 about 20 times or so. He only has ARP rod bolts. But when my car isn't on jackstands, I race often and a lot, so when I see 7k or thereabouts on my tach, it's time to shift.
IMO the insurance of putting in the stronger rod bolts AND correctly torquing them yourself per the FSM is more than worth it for the ~130$US that the rod bolts cost. I am definately doing this to my stock motor and setting the rev limiter to a somewhat conservative 7000 flat at first, and eventually 7300 RPMs TOPS if I see the setup could gain from the extra 300 rpms.
But 7200-7300 is as high as I want to go with only rod bolts, even though SR20DEN said he occasionally saw 7500 w/ just ARP rod bolts, and Krismax told me he saw 7500 daily when he had his JWT ecu, and went to 8000 about 20 times or so. He only has ARP rod bolts. But when my car isn't on jackstands, I race often and a lot, so when I see 7k or thereabouts on my tach, it's time to shift.
12-05-2006, 05:31 PM
#11
Originally Posted by speed racer
As far as the head go, I would look at stronger valve springs. IIRC SR20DEN said that the VQ35 valve springs are not even stiffer than the VQ30DE.
12-05-2006, 05:35 PM
#12
Originally Posted by JClaw
IMO the insurance of putting in the stronger rod bolts AND correctly torquing them yourself per the FSM is more than worth it for the ~130$US that the rod bolts cost.
Krismax told me he saw 7500 daily when he had his JWT ecu, and went to 8000 about 20 times or so. He only has ARP rod bolts.
12-05-2006, 07:16 PM
#14
Hey thanks JClaw for the short lesson.
I also think SR20DEN was in the process of testing out the 350z valve springs, but never got around to it. How aggressive are the Nismo Cams? How much lift or adv. timing they provide. I would almost want to back calculate based on your cams first.
I also think SR20DEN was in the process of testing out the 350z valve springs, but never got around to it. How aggressive are the Nismo Cams? How much lift or adv. timing they provide. I would almost want to back calculate based on your cams first.
12-05-2006, 07:47 PM
#15
Originally Posted by speed racer
I also think SR20DEN was in the process of testing out the 350z valve springs, but never got around to it.
How aggressive are the Nismo Cams?
12-05-2006, 08:40 PM
#16
You'll have to upgrade to lighter pistons, lighter/stronger rods, rod bolts, valve springs, better bearings (more lubrication) and maybe the oil pump. Making power that high is a another story. For that, you'll need aggressive cams, headers, a good IM w/short runners, and maybe some head work should do the trick.
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
12-05-2006, 09:21 PM
#17
Originally Posted by 505max94se
You'll have to upgrade to lighter pistons, lighter/stronger rods, rod bolts, valve springs, better bearings (more lubrication) and maybe the oil pump. Making power that high is a another story. For that, you'll need aggressive cams, headers, a good IM w/short runners, and maybe some head work should do the trick.
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
From the calculator, 7500rpm will have approx. 4005.9ft/min, right at the general rule of thumb.
12-05-2006, 11:48 PM
#18
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
The figures you gave were suppose to be in ft/min. In ft/sec, you're looking at 71.21ft/sec. etc...
From the calculator, 7500rpm will have approx. 4005.9ft/min, right at the general rule of thumb.
From the calculator, 7500rpm will have approx. 4005.9ft/min, right at the general rule of thumb.
12-06-2006, 04:21 AM
#19
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
The figures you gave were suppose to be in ft/min. In ft/sec, you're looking at 71.21ft/sec. etc...
From the calculator, 7500rpm will have approx. 4005.9ft/min, right at the general rule of thumb.
From the calculator, 7500rpm will have approx. 4005.9ft/min, right at the general rule of thumb.
12-06-2006, 10:21 AM
#23
Try and see if the HR oil pump won't work and if there is a cost difference with the Rev up pump.
Check the Z/G boards and see if there are any pioneers over there doing a really high reving VQ35.
With ARP rod bolts and stock cams or aftermarket cams and valve springs, 7500 should be no problem. Getting to 8000 will be a little tougher, but with stronger rods, lighter HR pistons, an HR or Rev up oil pump, and some valve springs you should be able to go to 8000. The ARP main and head studs may not be a bad idea if you do all that. As far as the bearing go I am not sure, but I have not heard of anyone having bearing problems with VQs as of yet.
Check the Z/G boards and see if there are any pioneers over there doing a really high reving VQ35.
With ARP rod bolts and stock cams or aftermarket cams and valve springs, 7500 should be no problem. Getting to 8000 will be a little tougher, but with stronger rods, lighter HR pistons, an HR or Rev up oil pump, and some valve springs you should be able to go to 8000. The ARP main and head studs may not be a bad idea if you do all that. As far as the bearing go I am not sure, but I have not heard of anyone having bearing problems with VQs as of yet.
12-06-2006, 04:14 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
wasn't there an issue with the VQ30 oil pumps grenading at 7500 or 8000rpm?
something to look at there as well.
something to look at there as well.
That would be interesting to see a dyno of a VQ revving that high...I'm sure with cams, IM work, headers, lighter components it would actually make pretty good power up there! good luck on the 'journey'!
12-06-2006, 04:20 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
wasn't there an issue with the VQ30 oil pumps grenading at 7500 or 8000rpm?
something to look at there as well.
something to look at there as well.
.
jclaw i do have JWT springs also .
And also when i change my stock cams out iam gonna ditch the vq 35 retainers ( stock aluminum) there not recomended for cammed and high RPM. Ill prob just put the steel VQ30's in very cheap .
I hope the HR oil pump works but iam not counting on it the crank is bigger.But it could...
12-06-2006, 04:37 PM
#28
Hey Jclaw. Since your doing all this to your engine you may want to consider these gauges.
SPA Oil & Water Temp Gauge / Fuel & Oil Pressure Gauge
http://www.spadesign.com/design/prod...0215B/R-G%7C16
My friend has the water temp and oil pressure gauge. Its a very clean setup and it comes with all the sensors for monitoring. All you have to do is tap into wherever you need to get a reading. For example. The water temp can be t'd in where the upper hose goes out. And the digital faces are real nice as well.
SPA Oil & Water Temp Gauge / Fuel & Oil Pressure Gauge
http://www.spadesign.com/design/prod...0215B/R-G%7C16
My friend has the water temp and oil pressure gauge. Its a very clean setup and it comes with all the sensors for monitoring. All you have to do is tap into wherever you need to get a reading. For example. The water temp can be t'd in where the upper hose goes out. And the digital faces are real nice as well.
12-06-2006, 07:13 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Hoooper
with good oil pressure you shouldnt have bearing problems.
12-06-2006, 07:56 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by speed racer
Hey thanks JClaw for the short lesson.
I also think SR20DEN was in the process of testing out the 350z valve springs, but never got around to it. How aggressive are the Nismo Cams? How much lift or adv. timing they provide. I would almost want to back calculate based on your cams first.
I also think SR20DEN was in the process of testing out the 350z valve springs, but never got around to it. How aggressive are the Nismo Cams? How much lift or adv. timing they provide. I would almost want to back calculate based on your cams first.
12-06-2006, 07:59 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by 505max94se
You'll have to upgrade to lighter pistons, lighter/stronger rods, rod bolts, valve springs, better bearings (more lubrication) and maybe the oil pump. Making power that high is a another story. For that, you'll need aggressive cams, headers, a good IM w/short runners, and maybe some head work should do the trick.
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
The stroke is 81.4 which roughly equals 3.204 in. At 8000 rpms the piston speed will be 4272.96 ft per second. A general rule of thumb is a maximum of 3000 ft/sec for most factory engines, 4000 ft/sec for an engine with upgraded internals (lighter pistons/rods, and upgraded bearings). and 5000 ft/sec for an all out race motor with the strongest, lightest parts.
Here's a link to a piston speed calculator: http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html
A little update. My bro has at this point pretty much decided he's going to swap a VQ35 in my old 95 SE 5-speed. Next spring. We made a deal so he is giving me his VQ30 shortblock with 116k on it. So I am looking into the VQ36DE idea. That means a sleeved VQ30 block up to 102 mm sleeves. Using the VQ30's 73.3 mm stroke, that gives us a displacement of 3592 cc.
Now piston speed. 3.0 crank vs 3.5 crank.
VQ35 crank piston speeds:
7000 = 3738 fpm
7500 = 4005 fpm
8000 = 4272 fpm
8500 = 4540 fpm
9000 = 4807 fpm
VQ30 crank piston speeds:
7000 = 3366 fpm
7500 = 3607 fpm
8000 = 3847 fpm
8500 = 4088 fpm
9000 = 4328 fpm
So at 8500 RPM, the 73.3 mm crank strains as much as the 81.4 mm crank at 7600 or so.
Once again, take into account that the the block and crank is free. You can pick up a random VQ30 block for only 150$ anyway. I can run my 240 with the 3.5 while I slowly work on this one. Anybody like this 3.6L idea at all? What are the disatvantages of using a VQ30 shortblock instead of the VQ35 block? SR20DEN said the VQ30 should have no problem accepting aftermarket VQ35 sleeves.
12-06-2006, 08:43 PM
#32
I like the sound of that JClaw....Sounds like a very reliable, cheap way to have a high revving vq35 (36). How are you going to use the ITB's if you use the 4th gen ecu/wiring? Are you going to stay with the original plan...MS??
I've actually been planning on going all out N/A on a high revving VQ35 for some time now. I'm not a big fan of FI anymore... I was actually planning on buying the AEBS 4.3L stroker kit. Although piston speed would increase, I think that I could still safely rev it to 8000 rpm. At just a little over 8200 rpm the piston speed hits the 5000 fpm limit. Since the motor will have the best parts, I think it'll be alright. I was also planning on buying cosworth heads and IM (along with alot of other goodies). I'm shooting for about 400-500 hp N/A.
I just started selling new/used cars at a local dealership about a month ago. This dream is financially realistic since I'm doing so well at my new job. I should have the motor fully built within 6 months.
I've actually been planning on going all out N/A on a high revving VQ35 for some time now. I'm not a big fan of FI anymore... I was actually planning on buying the AEBS 4.3L stroker kit. Although piston speed would increase, I think that I could still safely rev it to 8000 rpm. At just a little over 8200 rpm the piston speed hits the 5000 fpm limit. Since the motor will have the best parts, I think it'll be alright. I was also planning on buying cosworth heads and IM (along with alot of other goodies). I'm shooting for about 400-500 hp N/A.
I just started selling new/used cars at a local dealership about a month ago. This dream is financially realistic since I'm doing so well at my new job. I should have the motor fully built within 6 months.
12-06-2006, 09:26 PM
#33
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That sounds great you will get there before me.
As far as sleeves go: http://www.racesleeves.com/applications/
I am using the VQ30-style timing chain specifically to be able to use the 3.0L ECU and wiring.
I think that running the 2001 pathfinder timing chain w/ early VTCs would allow me to run big cams without throwing streetability and idle out the window. It would also widen the powerband. I would use the VQ30 ECU with E-manage Ultimate to raise the rev limiter and play with timing and A/F. I much rather go from stock maps and improve them, than creating everything from scratch like MS. Again, it's a reliability thing.
And we know the stock 95-96 ECU maps go to at least 8000 (ask krismax).
I've heard about a race 3.4L VQ30 built by IES (UK) and apparently they managed to get 480HP out of it w/ 9500Rpm and 13.5-1 Compression, ITB's & exotic materials everywhere on it. It supposedly didn't last 2500 miles.
I think that, with a downtuned, reliable street motor at 3.6L running around 11.7-11.9:1 compression and and not go crazy with the 9000 RPM tach, it would be reliable. I know heads will make or break this motor. At this point I am not sure where to go for this. Cosworth heads may hit 435 cfm, but they are PRICEY sobs (valvetrain good up to 10,500 rpm). I need to know how much better they are than stock heads with an upgraded valvetrain and a port/polish job.
I mean if I can get pistons that are as light as the stock VQ30 pistons, with forged VQ30 rods and upgraded rod bolts, it would easily and reliably rev to 8000 all day long. Also I think the VQ35HR returned to the older VQ30 setup for the crank/rod attachment point. This is encouraging.
I think that I would leave 9000 up to race only motors, - and it wouldn't be possible to make power that high with a streetable motor, although - with the 73.3 mm crank piston speed is only 4328 fpm at 9000 RPM.
As far as sleeves go: http://www.racesleeves.com/applications/
Originally Posted by 505max94se
I like the sound of that JClaw....Sounds like a very reliable, cheap way to have a high revving vq35 (36). How are you going to use the ITB's if you use the 4th gen ecu/wiring? Are you going to stay with the original plan...MS??
I think that running the 2001 pathfinder timing chain w/ early VTCs would allow me to run big cams without throwing streetability and idle out the window. It would also widen the powerband. I would use the VQ30 ECU with E-manage Ultimate to raise the rev limiter and play with timing and A/F. I much rather go from stock maps and improve them, than creating everything from scratch like MS. Again, it's a reliability thing.
And we know the stock 95-96 ECU maps go to at least 8000 (ask krismax).
I've heard about a race 3.4L VQ30 built by IES (UK) and apparently they managed to get 480HP out of it w/ 9500Rpm and 13.5-1 Compression, ITB's & exotic materials everywhere on it. It supposedly didn't last 2500 miles.
I think that, with a downtuned, reliable street motor at 3.6L running around 11.7-11.9:1 compression and and not go crazy with the 9000 RPM tach, it would be reliable. I know heads will make or break this motor. At this point I am not sure where to go for this. Cosworth heads may hit 435 cfm, but they are PRICEY sobs (valvetrain good up to 10,500 rpm). I need to know how much better they are than stock heads with an upgraded valvetrain and a port/polish job.
I mean if I can get pistons that are as light as the stock VQ30 pistons, with forged VQ30 rods and upgraded rod bolts, it would easily and reliably rev to 8000 all day long. Also I think the VQ35HR returned to the older VQ30 setup for the crank/rod attachment point. This is encouraging.
I think that I would leave 9000 up to race only motors, - and it wouldn't be possible to make power that high with a streetable motor, although - with the 73.3 mm crank piston speed is only 4328 fpm at 9000 RPM.
12-06-2006, 10:13 PM
#34
I was curious to see what a honda s2000's piston speed is. I just did a little research and discovered some interesting facts. The stroke of the older 2.0L s2000 engine is 84mm and it revs to 9000 rpm. The piston speed on this engine is 4960.63 FPM (@ 9000 rpm)!! The newer 2.2L has a stroke of 90.7mm and it revs to 8000 rpm. The piston speed on this engine is 4761.15 FPM (@ 8000 rpm). These are some pretty impressive numbers for factory engines. Just some food for thought....
12-07-2006, 08:28 AM
#36
Originally Posted by JClaw
I mean if I can get pistons that are as light as the stock VQ30 pistons, with forged VQ30 rods and upgraded rod bolts, it would easily and reliably rev to 8000 all day long. Also I think the VQ35HR returned to the older VQ30 setup for the crank/rod attachment point. This is encouraging.
Also, Jclaw there was an old thread of someone selling VQ30 rods and pistons. I don't think they ever sold them. May be a cheap way of getting some stronger internals.
12-07-2006, 10:59 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by speed racer
So are you saying that the VQ35HR has the same connection as the VQ30. Would that mean readily and easily available on the shelf rods and pistons.
Also, Jclaw there was an old thread of someone selling VQ30 rods and pistons. I don't think they ever sold them. May be a cheap way of getting some stronger internals.
Also, Jclaw there was an old thread of someone selling VQ30 rods and pistons. I don't think they ever sold them. May be a cheap way of getting some stronger internals.
It seems Porsche also thought the 3.6L was a good idea because they have a new-for-2007 3.6L flat 6 with very similar dimensions that I am thinking about doing. 76.4 mm stroke x 100 mm bore. It redlines at 8400 stock and produces 415 HP at 7600 and 299 ft-lbs.
http://www.supercars.net/cars/3428.html
A VQ36 would have a slightly shorter stroke and slighter bigger bore so I am going to research the porsche engine.
12-07-2006, 11:25 AM
#38
Originally Posted by nismology
The S2000 has forged pistons and rods from the factory.
The 4.3L stroker kit that I want has a stroke of 90mm. At 8400 rpm the piston speed is exactly the same as the 2.0L s2000 engine when it's at 9000 rpm. I think it's interesting because it's proof that I can safely rev my built/stroked engine that high.
12-07-2006, 11:38 AM
#39
I have heard the vq35de can rev 7000-7200rpms stock and I also know people who have put aftermarket cams without rod bolts or vavle springs and have had it 4 a while and have had no problems at all. Please shed some light on this. Good luck on yall projects, this will pave the way 4 many more high revving motors to come. Keep us posted on ur progress
12-07-2006, 07:13 PM
#40
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I have e-mailed Darton tech about this. It seems they make custom bore sleeves (
) and I want to know what they think of this extremely oversquare setup.
As an alternative, I am going to price my original idea involving forged rods and HR pistons.
Lets see how long they take to respond to me. I will post the answer here.
BTW, does anyone have a link to the differences between the VQ30 and VQ35 blocks? I know the VQ35 heads are way better and I would definately be using them but what would make a Re-Sleeved VQ35 better than a Re-Sleeved VQ30 block?
) and I want to know what they think of this extremely oversquare setup.As an alternative, I am going to price my original idea involving forged rods and HR pistons.
Lets see how long they take to respond to me. I will post the answer here.
BTW, does anyone have a link to the differences between the VQ30 and VQ35 blocks? I know the VQ35 heads are way better and I would definately be using them but what would make a Re-Sleeved VQ35 better than a Re-Sleeved VQ30 block?