Check it out:

http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270

 

Super detailed write up, ya cant possibly fawk it up. Lots of pics (that helps newbs alot).

 

Sticky! LOL

It'll help people who can search, rather than PM everyone.

 

very veeery nice

 

Great write-up and congrats on the nice clean job.

 

we need a detailed write up like this for DE-Ks....Good Job

 

Why was it necessary to strip the engine down that far? Or was that just valve covers and timing parts removed? Sorry for the noob question.

 

yeah thats a great write up man! def needs to be a sticky!!

 

It's necessary.



Nice job on the writeup!!

 

You could swap in a DE-K with the steps from my writeup. You just don't have to open up the engines.

 

great write up tavarish. good detail and a lot of pics, this in conjunction with the previous write that is already stickied, should be all anyone needs to do the swap.

 

yup, i want this to be the end of the incessant pm's about this and that - the do's and don't during the swap.

 

I think that might still happen, but with your write up it should cut that down atleast in half.

 

I'm guilty of buggin!!
I wish I would have ran into this a while back.... I was completely unaware of the thermostat replacement... but I would have probably figured it out once I get to that.

Anyways thanks to everyone who has put up with my pm's and repetative questions.

 

i think he mean dek swap for a DE engine

anyways , great how to ...

 

that is a beautiful write-up
kudos

 

i aplaude to your writeup, great job

 

Thanks, everyone.

Can someone sticky this?

 

One question. You used the 3.5 upper oil pan instead of the 3.0, I thought there was some modifications needed to make that work? Or is the 3.5 upper oil pan work?

 

bump to be put into the sticky

 

very nice

 

Thanks a ton Tavarish. Will help me immensely when i finally do the swap.

Another vote for the sticky...

 

Sticky fo sho!!

 

Done. If the mods in this forum have another way of containing this writeup in this area of the site, feel free to do so.

I pdf'd the writeup just in case I eve get the ***** to do the swap.

 

i noticed you didnt use the 3.5 oil cooler with the swap is there a reason for this. my car runs very cool with it and it allows the use of the lower temp 350z thermostat.
tilley did that stuff without me there didnt see what went into doing that.

also knowing i love weight reduction, me and tilley weighed the pass mounts 3.5 and 3.0 and actually on a very precise gram scale the 3.5 mount was slightly 1 lb more. so......

 

I didn't have the full cooler lines with the engine, so I just blocked it off with a bolt. My engine has never run hot, and the 3.0 thermostat is fine. Don't know if the 3.5 thermostat would run a little cooler, but my engine gets enough ventilation, and I have the rewired fans.

I honestly don't remember which mount I used, whichever one was in better shape.

 

no modifications needed. I used a 3.5 crank sensor and plug, I just spliced into the wires.


I'll add that to the writeup. Remember, I did this from memory one night, and i'm bound to have forgotten something.

 

If I could ask you about the wiring diagram...What has been left from the 3.5 wiring and sensors. What has been used from the 3.0. We`re about to do the swap but were intimidated by the electronics. Developped answer please.

-injectors: wiring back the 3.5 clips on 3.0 wiring
-coils packs: 3.5 coilpacks wired back on 3.0 wiring
-o2 sensors: 3.5 sensors rewired on 3.0 wiring???
-evap: do we keep it from the 3.0L???
-iacv: plate adapter with 3.0 hardware
-MAF: 3.0L or 3.5 rewired on the 3.0 wiring
-Map/baro sensor from 97 : is it necessary??
-crank sensor: 3.0L sensor on the 3.0L pan
-cam sensor: same 3.0 sensor on front bank/timing cover

Explain what you did, sensor by sensor would be SUPER Appreciated.
Not noobs but still affraid of electronics. If i miss something, let me know!!
Thanks twice!!!

 

I was looking at both coolant tubes from each and that extra tube off of the 3.5 is for the oil cooler right!? I really didnt get a chance to look at it carefully because it was raining a lot and freezing--I i unfortunatly dont have a garage so my engines are sitting in my front yard covered up by a couple of tarps.

What sensor is not on the 3.5? I also looked at both the 96 and the 04 FSM and I couldnt find any differences, other than the coolant tube, but I might have missed it.

 

n/m... when I got home from work, I looked at the engine and saw what coolant tube your thread talked about. sorry...should have looked at it before asking away.

 

Yes splice and wire in the 3.5 injector clips onto the 3.0 harness
Your motor should come with 3.5 coils, and the stock 3.0 harness will plug into them no problem.
You can keep using your normal 3.0 sensor. If one is bad and your motor came with an o2, I believe it can be used, you have to rewire them in.
Plug the sensors in, and tie them off somewhere
get the adapter plate from stephen Max, and you'll be able to use the iACV, many arent running it. I believe those who run the pathy TB will need it, as that doenst have the iacv build into the TB, like the 3.5 eletronic TB does
Dont know if your motor came with a 3.5 MAF, but stick with your stock MAF from the 3.0
Plug in the sensor and tie it off somewhere.
use it, if your using the 3.0 oil pan.
use it, you need it. nothing needs to be rewired, if thats what your wondering.

 

AWESOME WRITE-UP! just a tip here, instead of spending forever with stupid gasket scrapers just use a "3m automotive scuff pad" and brake cleaner (then rags) it take's 1/10th the amount of time to get it way better, you'll throw away even the most expensive scraper once you try it.

Also, I noticed you re-installed the o-rings in the 3.5 head for the vtc oil channel that is non-existant in the 3.0 timing cover. I actually saw them tonight and I also noticed that the one in the front head get's blocked by the 3.0 timing cover. I was clueless as to which way the flow went and how the vtc's worked, but just on my own assumptions from looking at it I think those selenoid looking things near the head are some sort of pressure regulator and my geuss on it was that oil pressure comes through the head, into those regulators and then gets pumped through the timing cover into the vct's and then drains back to the oil pan through the timing cover. So just to be on the safe side I cut a little groove in the front head so that it would channel any oil from this passage back into the timing cover just like the passage on the rear head is using 3.0 covers, I'm going to take pics tomorow, I might have wasted my time but oh-well, I just wanted to be on the safe side and not disrupt the oil flow that much from how the head was engineered to be

 

nice write up....can u use a pftb on the 3.5 im???

 

yes. An adapter would be needed as well.

 

does anyone sell one???

 

STEPHENMAX

 

need to register to look at it.. i tried twice and never got a email, is there a maxima.org username we can use or something?

 

One tip for blocking the EGR when using the vq30 exhaust mani's is;
Just cut the metal hose and seperate it from the nut that screws it into the exhaust manifold, put a nickel in the exhaust manifold EGR port with some high temp RTV, and torque the nut back down sandwiching the nickel.
Kinda ghetto, but cheap and you'll never see it.

 

Interesting.. I just finished a swap and we got a shop to weld the EGR pipe shut for free.

 

Yeah, obviously if you have a welder or free access to getting that done, why not.
But, if not, it will only take a couple on minutes to plug it up.