OK....so I have been seriously thinking of doing a DE-K swap in my 98...before you say 3.5 i simply dont want it...I have searched and all the threads I have been reading say u need to do certain things and they forget the rest of the stuff they do....being in NY i have to have no CEL lights and no cold start up issues cause it gets damn cold where i live....I was thinking of DE-K with complete harness and ECU...this way all electronics are like stock and nothing special should be needed....but then i have concerns on how it will interface with the stock gauge cluster and ish....this possible ???.....if not what exactly needs to be done for the complete swap with no CELs and Idle issues if I have to keep DE ECU and harness.....

 

That would be a waste of time swapping over the entire harness and ECU... You can do a DE-K swap and have no CEL lights..

 

ok thats a start....now how would that be accomplished....i know there are some issues with EGR and IACV plate....

 

once I put my stock cat back on and plug in my rear o2, I will be codeless. I have no idle issues. If you reasoning for not wanting the 3.5 is because of a CEL and idle issues, those can be over came.

If your looking for an easier swap, less involving then the DE-K would fit the bill.


I believe the proper block off plate, and IACV adapter from stephen max would cure the idle/start up issues. If memory serves I do remember SDot82 using the IACV from the 5th gen, dont know what he did about the rest of the sensors.

 

If you swap the harness you need to get the ecu. The most important thing is the imobilizer key. This would mean going to the dealer and having the key programmed. One of the major reasons why people go the simple route.

 

You'd actually have to retrofit an A33 NATS IMMU and tape a programmed key to it to get it to work since non-99 A32's don't have the immobilizer to begin with.

 

i have 0 cels on my 3.5 swap i switched to a 95 ecu and iam cel free.

 

how many miles are on your max? I would recomend if something isnt bad or broke, dont mess with it. I have done a couple de-k swaps and would recomend what I said above if at all possible. or buy a beater max and do the swap on it so you still have your 1 reliable car. Stuff can always go wrong and no one ever counts on that part of it. but if you want to decide to go through with it, send me a pm and ill give you my number and you can ask the questions you have when you run into something you arent sure about.

 

i am apporaching 130k...i have the timing chaing tensioner guide noise...not a hige deal....my reasons for DE-K is simpler swap than 3.5 and i really cant afford to have my car down for more than a weekend...for me too much involved in the 3.5.....I forgot about the immobilzer....Whats the biggest difference between 4th and 5th gen IACV....

 

^ The immobilizer has nothing to do with the engine you are swapping in..

 

That was in response to post #6 which was in response to post #5.

 

The immobilizer would only be an issue if you swapped over a 5th gen ECU.

 

Maximase96<I was thinking of DE-K with complete harness and ECU...>

hence my post.

 

Understood. But what my post (#6) was saying is that it's not as simple as programming the key. A programmed key is no good if there's nothing to read it.

 

If you only have a weekend to do this, I recomend not doing it if you have never done anything like this before.

 

i have pulled and swapped motors before thats not the issue...i just need to know what exactly is involved in making the DE-K work with No CELs and no idle issues...Ok so answer me this Ill keep the stock ECU.....what needs to be done exactly to achieve my goal...again i have decided to keep stock ECU....because again no has answered my question on what needs to be done if i have to keep the stock ECU which was in the orginal post

 

yes, you can keep the stock ecu. You will have to splice the new injectors to your old harness and than you will have to decide if your going to keep the 4th gen IACV or go with the 5th gen. I think there might be one more sensor to change. You could use the 4th gen tps. You'll still be able to use all your EGR and evap. So, no codes.

 

thank you......so whats the deal with keeping the stock IACV....why do some switch and some dont...what is required to keep the stock

 

Its personnel preference. Some believe the 4th IACV to work and some believe the 5th IACV to work. I did both. I'm more satisfied with the 5th gen. Its a cleaner setup and the car works great on startup. My only issue now is anything below 40 degrees I have to feather the gas until the ECU can catch the rpm. Than it stays at 1300 rpms and drops as it gets warmer.

I also have a theory that this might work only on auto b/c its less likely to stall. It might be a trial an error. Otherwise your going to have to find a location to mount the 4th.

 

dont mean to jack the thread but... if i wanted to put a new motor in.. and i found a dek block and wanted to just swap in everyting except the upper/ lower intake manifolds would that work.. what im trying to say is the block itself the same as a 4 th gen.. please dont flame

 

Yes it would work.

 

I am looking into a 3.5 swap also but where I live you can not have cel's. I noticed that most people with the swap live in areas where the county does not care or have a 95-96 max's.

I know I could just hunt down stickers every year but that gets old for a DD

The only thing I could suggest right now is to prep the motor 1st then do the swap right after you get inspected that way you have a whole year to get your cel problem fixed

 

I live in a county where I can not pass emission if my check engine light is on period. I am codless (except for my dangling rear o2 sensor)

a codeless 3.5 swap is very possible. God Father posted on the guaranteed method for a codeless setup.

 

I think you told me how in another thread and it involve rebuilding the motor which I did not want to do, if it was not you what it your setup and I'll also checkout God Father site, less you have a link to the post

 

I don't like Godfather's method because it is so much less economical. It would probably be as expensive to do a full 3.5 swap then try to do the hybrid-no CEL with a 97-99 Maxima.

 

understandable.

I and others who did not take this path were able to yield a code less setup, there is a way.

 

EGR and IACV seem to be the only problems. There is always a way to trick the ECU.

 

but being that I have 97 switching to a 95 ecu will just throw another code

guess I either need to either move, get my car registered to a emission free county or get a 95

 

Not true.....

 

You won't need to switch to a 95 ECU. You could purchase the IACV adaptor from Stephen Max and be codeless there except EGR. Then there are people who claim they have used resistors to trick the EGR sensors so that would eliminate those.

 

I have NO EGR on my DEK and NO codes. I just blocked all the vac lines going to the EGR on the vacum gally's A and B and I kept the EGR temp sensor plugged in.

-matt

 

ok info overload..i was gonna do a 3.5 swap, but oil burning issues swayed my decision. now im going to do the de-k swap and S/C it to get the power i want. but i'm a little confused. how can i get the 00VI to work. and whats the benefit of not using egr, does it adds power?. i dont want the codes, so imma use egr, evap, etc. can comeone PM me if they have answers.

 

seriously and not to pick on you, I'm saying it to be helpful and for you have a better understanding... Do more research. the oil burning issue has been addressed and beaten to death, read up on it so you can get a better understanding.

If all 3.5's had such oil burning issues, why would so many of us swap our working 3.0, or instead of putting in another, put in a 3.5 that has issues?

Also why put in a DEK motor? If your motor is working fine? Would more than likely be easier to swap the 00vi on, and then install the S/C onto the motor. Unless there are other reasons you havent mentioned or maybe I missed.

 

my engine is done, rod bearings, and i just want something ASAP, dont mean to be redundant, but i just dont see these posts. i stay up and look for info, but i'll do more research and see what i come up with. maybe i'm thinkin too much about this

 

My CEL comes on all the time. In my Max, we purchased a junkyard engine, and what they sent us was a 2000 DE-K motor, my buddy and I swapped all my uppers(Valve Covers, cp's, UIM, LIM...) basically all the top end. Now I can't get it to run right, dies alot when it's hot. I get EGR circuit faults, MAF faults. Car runs great when it's cold, and at higher speeds. Any ideas? Should I have tried to use all the newer upper end stuff?

 

I've read about an EGR block-off kit, but never seen one. I don't need mine, Can you describe one for me? Or point me where to look? Thanks