Ever since ive had my DEK in the car with NO IACV mount near the TB, ive been having cold starting issues. I finally had a TB block made from a Block of Aluminum that holds the TB and the IACV close to the TB. Ive come to the conclusion that with the PATHY TB adjusted just perfectly, and having the 5/8" going from the intake to the IACV, then reduced down to 3/8", then traveling 15" to the intake manifold then reducing again to about 1/4"....

Here is a pic of it before the install:


Here are some pics of it installed in the car.









Im having a new problem with idleing when I clutch in as Im coming to a stop. It revs from 2000 to 1000 really fast and annoying...I think the Motor is getting alot of air now, and I need to reset the ECU. I un-hooked the battery over night till tomorrow and ill see if it fixed or not...I dont really know what it could be.

 

wow nice piece.

 

Looks like a good peice, how much did it run you if you dont mind me asking?

 

I had two made....they were $250 a peice, my cost. I guess there was alot of labor in making them, its a peice of work

 

The Krismax method of DEK/Pathy TB swapping.

Chris made a block like this for me a couple of years ago and I've never had any hard start or CELs from the VI swap or the Pathy TB. To bad Org cheapness kept these from mass production. These are not so easy to make and there is a bit of aluminum used in the process.

 

beautiful Matty,

Glad you've found a solution to the cold start issue.

Your New problem is when clutching in and coming to a stop the revs drop from 2k to 1k faster than normal? Do the rpms slow down once they reach 1K or keep dropping and get close to stalling?


did you buy the aluminum locally?

 

Clutching in while coming to a stop, the rpms will drop to about 1100 then rev right back up to 2000 and as im slowing down it surges from 2k to 1k up and down up and down really quick, just up and down up and down.. It has not come close to stalling once.. Once I stop the car, it stops surging up and down but only settles to 1000-1200 idle which is noncharacteristic of the car.
Im hoping the ECU needs to get used to the new part. I am introducing alot of air into the system now and the cars used to my old setup. I can tell that its alot more air cause the my idle a/f have really gone LEAN. I had to add a bit more fuel with the EU.

yea my guy got it. Ill have one up for sale soon.

-matt

 

sounds like the symptoms of a leak, but if that was the case, it would be present at all times.

thats a noodle scratcher.


this occurs everytime you clutch in and rpms get to 1k?

 

I dont really think theres a leak...at idle ive looked over everything and I was very carefull when I put all this stuff back together...

If say im just cruizing on the highway at 50 or 70 or 60, and I push the clutch in, normally the rpms will drop and idle...well when I clutch in, the rpms with fluctuate from 1000-2000 up and down up and down really fast....if I just keep cruizing it will keep doing it....as I slow down and stop, the surging stops and idle stay high at around 1100...

Im really lost on what it could be. Maybe cuase im using Pathy TPS ??

-matt

 

ive used two pathy TB's both with pathy TPS no problums did i have .


this sounds like a electrical prob with wiring or MAF . do you have a spare MAF?
And when you made the wires longer ,maybe theres a problum there?

I have had weird idle problums in the past many have disapeared waiting a couple weeks

 

The MAF is probably not the problem. Its Z32 and Ive it for a while

I made the wires longer on the TPS, but I was very carefull when I did it and the MAF wires have been the way Ive had them for a long time. I can check them and re-solder though since I only used crimps on them nearly 2 years ago.

Its very distinct. I can be cruzing on the highway and clutch in, and the idle goed from 1000 to 2000 up and down up and down....really weird

-matt

 

Anyone have any other ideas about the surging ??

-matt

 

So the reset didn't help anything? Are you still using the 4th tps or are you using PF tb?

 

Pathy TPS.

I dont know why its surging so badly. My only idea is that I need to get the car warm, turn the idle screw on the TB down a bit to get it to a good idle, then pull the TB off again and re-adjust the TPS to the new setting. Figure the Haynes book sais NOT to touch the screw, but thats on a stock TB, not on a 70mm pathy tb. My idle is about 1300 rpms and not showing any type of fixing itself


I Think the over abundence of air through the TB is cuasing the UP and DOWN surging I am getting. Its very strange and isnt electrical. Its more machanical feeling.

-matt

 

Why not the A32 TPS? Are others using the Pathfinder TPS with no problems?

 

Yea. Krismax has had his Pathy TPS for over two years on his setup and Stephan max also used the Pathy TPS.

-matt

 

Very interesting piece of work you got there. I too have cold start issues, and I believe I may have a problem similar to your surging problem. Occasionally if I'm turning my steering wheel all the way to either side and I don't keep the revs up while going very slowly, the car will stall then start right back up. I don't remember this happening before I got the PF TB. I wonder if it's related.

I assume that aluminum block did fix your cold start issues, right? I would love to buy the extra one, but I can think of better ways to spend that much money. I guess no amount of fooling with the TPS made any difference in the cold starts? Is it only the people with the A32 TPS that are having problems, or also some people with the PF TPS?

 

The trick to cold start issues is to get the IACV as close to the intake stream as possible. The stalling comes from the IACV being soo far from the motor, in turn not being able to serve the motor with enough air.

Now with my setup, the PATHY is set for the pathfinder and not the maXima, creeped open too much and too much air is creeping by the TB plate. TOO Much....Sound right ??

I have the TPS set perfectly

I drove the car about 100 miles today and the surging is rediculous and like nothing Ive ever seen.

-matt

 

Matt, where exactly is that hose going to off the IACV. I'm going to try and find the PF tps that came with the tb and see if that helps my tps code. Just need to find it....

 

The hose going off the IACV is going to the charge pipe thats before the TB.

So when the TB is closed, that motor gets air. Thats how it should be. I believe the TB is open too much, in turn letting too much air in, resulting in the weird surging/looping, and the high idle

-matt

 

Anyone have any ideas of why im getting the surging problem

If I have the car warmed up and idleing, it idles high at around 1100 or so and if I rev it, it sticks at 2000 then drops real quick to 1100 then stays there...acting really weird. The IACV is brand new from nissan

-matt

 

Hate to rain on your parade, guys, but I think you're barking up the wrong tree.
I don't have Matty's SC nor the Pathy TB; configuration-wise, in swapping over to the 00VI I retained all of the original 4th gen ('96) components, EVAP, IACV, TB, injectors, TB coolant lines, etc. My IACV is hung off of the end of the VIAS with the StephenMax adapter and his 3/8" brass hose nipple. I run the hose from that nipple underneath the 00VI intake runners and then Tee it into the brake booster line (which, BTW, has never caused me any problem) right where it comes out of the UIM. That's got to be about two feet long!
I just went out and started the car: Car was parked out-of-doors and it was 10° out (I think that qualifies as "cold-start"). Didn't even take 2 seconds on the starter. Jumped to life and immediately to about 1200 RPM idle, climbing to around 1400 RPM over the next 10 seconds. Exactly like it behaves when the temps are above freezing, except then it will go right to 1400 RPM.
Sorry I don't have any suggestion as to what the real problem is, but hope this will help you redirect your focus away from what I suspect is not causing the problem.
[edit] Just took another look at the thermometer: Make that only 9°. And we're just 30 miles from Georgia!!

 

Man curt, thanks alot for your help. You really made me feel so much better about my problem

-matt

 

Could it be that the ECU is using the IACV to get to the target idle, but can't because too much air is going through the TB? I would try adjusting the TB opening..

 

if the ecu was reset wouldnt it reconfigure itself to having more air coming in?

 

I reset it like twice already and also diconnected by battary over night.
This is definetly a machanical problem like somethign is being corrected by the ECU because somethign is way off

-matt

 

I remember a buddy haveing similar problem after he cleaned the TB on his 01 and it came to be the iac(or whatever that little part inside the TB is called) inside the TB maybe you need a new one. I'd mess around with that. He cleaned his TB and had something similar happening to what you are describing.

 

I dont know if you read the thread, but that part is NEW from NISSAN

-matt

 

On Saturday I installed a MEVI and a Pathfinder throttle body on my car. I was unaware of the fact that you have to set/calibrate the TPS until Matty told me about it. So tonight I went about setting my TPS as per factory specs in the FSM.

On initial start-up everything seemed normal for a cold start, idle at about 1700 rpms and then they slowly dropped to about 11-1200 after about 30-45 seconds. I take the car out for a little spin to get it good and warm to check to see how idle is when it's nice and warm (about a 20-30 min drive half highway, half stop-and-go). My car, being an automatic, was idling at about 8-900rpm when I came to stops, but off idle would kinda accelerate on its own to an early second gear engagement. Only when I finally got parked and put the car into park did I notice my rpms shot up to about 17-1800rpm with no signs of dropping. So I turned off the car after about a good minute of the same extreme idle. I re-checked the TPS and the readings were still the same, almost exactly .5k ohms at closed throttle and about 4.4k at WOT and very linear inbetween as well as a perfect continuity test. I restarted the car and same deal, extremely high idle.

Now I know i'll get chewed out for it, but I loosened the TPS screws and manually rotated it till idle was at about 750-850rpm (car was still hot). I shut her off, then restarted it. The car started exactly like it did when it was stock. Initial idle of about 1600rpm then worked it's way down to about 1k, then down to normal idle. I took the car out again, and it responded like it did stock. I forgot to recheck my readings with it the way i have it set now, but in all honesty, at factory settings, the TPS does not allow the car to idle correctly. Also, in my case it made the gear searching worse than it was before.

The only thing I can say Matty, atleast from my own experience, is you might have to fine tune it manually to get it to idle like it is supposed to. What readings are you getting at closed/WOT on the TPS?

 

I set my TPS with a Feeler gauge. .3mm in between the screw and plate, set it for continiuty, then remove it and put in the .4mm feeler and it should read NON continuity. Its a VERY Precise setting with a multi-meter and it takes about half hour to get perfect after tightening the tps screws. VERY PRESISE.

If I loosen the TPS screws and turn the tps, it will throw the caibration way out and theres no way that it will drive normally.

The only way to do this correctly is get the car warm, then loosen the TB screw so the TB plate closes a bit till the Idle gets perfect. Then pull the TB and adjust the TPS to the new setting. I have not yet done but I am close to breakign down and doing it.

-matt

 

i understand what you're saying. if you have everything set perfectly (and yes i know it takes a long time) then i would suggest adjusting the idle stop screw (i think that's what you're referring to).

But i do have to ask again, what readings are you getting at idle and WOT. I ask because at a perfect 0.50k ohms at idle, my WOT reading was high (4.7k IIRC).

Edit: I can't help but say it again, my car drives like stock now that I adjusted it the way that I did, and it was far from it at the factory settings.

 

This is what i was thinking, after messing with the Throttle body screw on my 2k TB i had similar problems...but mostly just not getting enough air causing the max to stall...etc.....no surging like your experiencing...

Try messing with the screw a bit...if you have another mallfinder TB that hasnt been messed with, c if you can get a good measurement of the stock setting for the screw placement...this is what i did to get my TB back to "stock" spec...or as close to it as possible...kinda ghetto but it worked for the most part...

hope this helps good luck...i HATE idle issues...

 

Did this issue ever get resolved? Did you take the plate off Matt? I'm still having starting issues with the PFTB, but I don't want to trade one problem for another.

 

The Block solved all my starting issues that I had. It got the IACV closer to the intake manifold which is generally what you want.

-matt

 

Oh, I was talking about the surging. I didn't see if you had figured it out or not.

 

Its funny. I do get the surging every once and a while if the conditions are right. It needs to be really cold out and it only does it if I havent run the car in a few days. I think it has to do with a RICH condition cause the IACV to get confused. It only does it for a few seconds if that and I can get it not to do it if I pull some fuel on the Water temp map on my EU which I use during the cold months.

-matt

 

Interesting this thread got bumped up. I never got to post in it, but I can attest to this block fixing another '00vi car w/horrible cold start issues, I mean HORRIBLE. I'm still going as to why his car had it so bad. Thing wouldn't run on it's own for nearly 1.5 minutes after sitting even for an hour, it would also pop up w/iacv codes intermittently no matter how many different iacv were put on the thing, including new ones, and the ref voltages etc & wiring all checked out fine

Oh well, I hate to say it but I think the need for these blocks are a thing of the past now that it's come to light just how easy it is to use the 5th gen IACV. (I knew it!)

Regardless, I felt priviliged to get to install one of these bad boys (even though it was a nightmare!) They really are kick-*** and look incredible, not to mention there's not exactly alot of them & it really adds to the 'custom' factor of the car.

 

ya the 5g tb w/ iacv is the way to go. but for guys w/ the PF TB..... is that iacv useable? has anyone done it? if not they have to use this block adapter or other remote mounted 4g IACV.

 

Yup the PFTB's have the IACV attached to it as well, same set-up basically as the 5g.

 

Got any more info? I've never heard about this fix...