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3.5 swap issue! >:(

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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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3.5 swap issue! >:(

At first, everything was good.... but now the car doesnt seem to rev past 3000 rpm. When we first cranked up the car, it was running kind of rich, but then we turned it off and started it up again, and then thats when the problem began. Anybody know whats going on!?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Sounds like a MAF issue, Did you check the MAF? Any check engine light?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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Unplug the MAF and see if it gets better or worse.

DF
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:07 PM
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what jcy98maxse said. What codes do you have?
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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It is either the MAF or TPS. I remember my TPS got knocked out of place at the track when I launched... The car WOULD NOT rev past 3000 RPM.
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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it was the MAF sensor-- I unplugged it and plugged it back... the problem went away!! Thanks again guys!!
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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So...any engine lights anyways?

-Peter-
Old Feb 6, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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The only code that pops up is the evap canister purge control / code 1008
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 04:15 AM
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you may be able to get a resistor and knock that garbage out. The 3.5 does have its own EVAP stuff too ... oh well ... let us know how you get rid of the code.
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 07:18 AM
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CEL doesnt bother me as long as the engine is running fine, haha. I check the codes maybe once a month to make sure its just the normal stuff for me (no IACV, EGR and the downstream useless o2 sensor).
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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Sounds like CAM/CRANK sensors.

MAF = 2400rpm +/- 200
TPS is also a possibility
Old Feb 7, 2007 | 11:18 AM
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Well CEL would bother me because it is an annoying light in the corner and you can't pass emissions.
Old Feb 8, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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Well the car runs good and VERY strong... it idles about 1000 rpm... a little high i think.... On occasion, the car's idle tends to fluctuate up to 1700 and then drops down to 1200 repeatedly.. does it about two or three times and then stops... I dont have the IAC connected. Is there anyway to keep the idle constant and not have it fluctuating like that!?
Old Feb 8, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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You havent listed your mods, so Im not sure what TB you're using. When I 1st did the swap I rigged up the E-TB of the 3.5. This involved a monsterous TPS braket that allowed for some play and made my idle fluctuate, and depending on how far off it was, it make it nearly impossible to hold x-percent throttle for crusing. Once i put the PF TB (to which I could bolt up the TPS no problem) it complety got rid of that nasty idle/ jerking driving around.
Old Feb 8, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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^ My e-gas TB worked great, just had an ~1100 rpm idle. But yes if you want to have a perfect idle/startup PF TB is the way to go.
Old Feb 8, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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I have the 3.5 throttle body modified to be cable driven. I fixed the idling issue. What I did was shave down the adjusting nut so the throttle body is close to closed position. It idles at 900 rpm now... the only thing I really dont like, and will probably make me buy the Pathfinder throttle body is the jerking the car tends to do when you tap on the gas pedal. I've driven it for two days now and that kind of bugs me.

Mods are as follows:
the obvious things needed to get the car running (3.0 timing equipment, etc..)
3.5 throttle body
3.0 knock sensor
3.0 oil pan
no oil cooler
ACT Stage 1 clutch
Fidanza flywheel
Unorthodox Underdrive pulley
Technosquare ECU
OBX headers
full 2.25 catback exhaust
Custom-made intake tubing with stillen intake


The VIAS is currently not hooked up but will be this weekend.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 04:42 AM
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To get rid of that jerkiness, be sure to mount the throttle cable onto THE ENGINE, not the FIREWALL (which is what it seems like on the picture). Remember, when you tap the gas, the engine rocks a lil bit, its enough to jerk on the throttle cable, thus messing with the TB even more, so you end up with some nasty jerking around. I made that mistake and IIRC, Nismo did too when he 1st did the swap.

OMG iw anted to ask you, which OBX headers are you running? The older ones with the "T" meeting section when the rear downpipe joins the y-pipe (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-R...spagenameZWDVW)

Or is it the redesigned ones with longer primaries and an actual "Y" joining section (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...spagenameZWDVW)

I've been after the fitment of these new ones for about a month with no replies, lol
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Nismo3112
^ My e-gas TB worked great, just had an ~1100 rpm idle. But yes if you want to have a perfect idle/startup PF TB is the way to go.
Mine was more like 1300, but yes it used to be fine until the frankenstein braket started to move around slightly and made driving my car hell. Its all in the braket really, I didnt have access to something sturdy enough to keep the 3.5 e-TB, but I had a PF TB ready in my garage.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 06:52 AM
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I have the old style OBX Headers.

The throttle body cable's bracket is connected to the top right mounting bolt of the throttle body.
I had read about not mounting it on the firewall.
Where would you recommend me mounting the bracket to??

I'm not sure if the jerkiness is also contributed by the stiffness of the bracket. I've noticed that when I give it gas, the bracket tends to bend a little. I might have to get a studdier bracket made.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 915Max
I have the old style OBX Headers.

The throttle body cable's bracket is connected to the top right mounting bolt of the throttle body.
I had read about not mounting it on the firewall.
Where would you recommend me mounting the bracket to??

I'm not sure if the jerkiness is also contributed by the stiffness of the bracket. I've noticed that when I give it gas, the bracket tends to bend a little. I might have to get a studdier bracket made.
OO i see it now! Yea man definatly use something stronger. You're actually using something that LOOKS like what Im using for mine (the little brace that holds the side of the fender to the frame). Its definatly not the strongest thing around. And yes, this WILL account for some of the jerkiness (some of it is attibuted to the newly found ubber-torque :-D) if its allowing for movement. That mounting point is fine, as long as its on the engine and not the body you'll be fine. Its the braket that needs to be upgraded.

What Im going to do probably today after work is install my new FPR, and redo that blasted throttle cable braket. Im going to buy a normal L-braket from ACE and bent it into the shape I need, drill and cut as needed, and Hopefully I'll have a final solution to my dilemma (the brace Im using now is so thin that the nuts on the cable come loose over time and sometimes if I floor it too fast, the cable will actually jump off the brace and I'll loose throttle, so I'd have to pull over and put it back, bla bla bla, nevermore after this weekend) lol
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
OO i see it now! Yea man definatly use something stronger. You're actually using something that LOOKS like what Im using for mine (the little brace that holds the side of the fender to the frame). Its definatly not the strongest thing around. And yes, this WILL account for some of the jerkiness (some of it is attibuted to the newly found ubber-torque :-D) if its allowing for movement. That mounting point is fine, as long as its on the engine and not the body you'll be fine. Its the braket that needs to be upgraded.

What Im going to do probably today after work is install my new FPR, and redo that blasted throttle cable braket. Im going to buy a normal L-braket from ACE and bent it into the shape I need, drill and cut as needed, and Hopefully I'll have a final solution to my dilemma (the brace Im using now is so thin that the nuts on the cable come loose over time and sometimes if I floor it too fast, the cable will actually jump off the brace and I'll loose throttle, so I'd have to pull over and put it back, bla bla bla, nevermore after this weekend) lol
that would suck!
I have some final touches I need to put into the car... RPM switch, oil pressure gauge, etc..)
But out of curiosity: How much difference does the VIAS make when it comes to power? I was reading on Ceasar Chariot's times being slower with the VIAS not being connected...

More than anything, I'm SO anxious to get the rpm switch connected-- the car is freakin' incredible right now... I just cant imagine the power it will be pushing once the VIAS is hooked up.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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I can imagine the throttle dying while merging onto the freeway in front of a semi.. heh. Hope that doesn't happen to you though.

I did have my shift linkage bolt break off while downshifting to pass a slow moving vehicle.. you can imagine what that was like on the highway..
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Mine was more like 1300, but yes it used to be fine until the frankenstein braket started to move around slightly and made driving my car hell. Its all in the braket really, I didnt have access to something sturdy enough to keep the 3.5 e-TB, but I had a PF TB ready in my garage.
Mine was around there too.. I had to shave some of the stopper off to get it down to 1100.


And the jerkiness sounds like the problem I had when I mounted the bracket onto the firewall... But try loosening the cable a little if it seems tight. Otherwise I don't know, I had the bracket mounted on the back of the IM and it didn't seem jerky at all.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 915Max
More than anything, I'm SO anxious to get the rpm switch connected-- the car is freakin' incredible right now... I just cant imagine the power it will be pushing once the VIAS is hooked up.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=window+switch

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