Not according to the Nissan Maxima FSM. Seriously dude...

 

uhh.....soo i follow which 1, its hooked up like the FSM shows... also do i NEED to supply vaccum to the damper since its a feed line?

 

Leave that **** the way you have it and no you don't NEED vacuum but if you do don't worry

 

thanks man

 

Did you take any pics yet. It would really help us trying to diagnose your problem.

 

yea but for some reason, the pix didnt get to my email...sigh


Does anyone have a vaccum diagram

my damper vaccum is blocked off

the FPR is joined with a-T- barb tubing then to nipple ontop the USIM

then one nipple is going to the purge valve which is also mounted atop the UIM...

the rear valve cover PVC vaccum and the brake booster are the only vaccums on the car. i have no EGR and can i run no EVAP if so what tubing needs to be removed?



Also,
Cant get an understandable reading on my CPS on the TPS...everyone gets 500-4000k ohms, i put the meter on 20k ohms, i get 5.64... anything else, like putting the meter on 2000k reads "1 . " any help there?

Cant get an understandable reading on my CPS on the TPS...everyone gets 500-4000k ohms, i put the meter on 20k ohms, i get 5.64... anything else, like putting the meter on 2000k reads 1 .

 

Igonre that, doing it differently need verification





- FPR to the thrid nipple on the VIAS (some UIM not equipted with)
number from left to right, looking at the UIM from the top side

- #1 Goes to Brake booster
- #2 nipple blocked off
- #3 nipple for valve cover
- #4 (onto, near TB) EVAP canister will be going to this(can someone show me the page from the FSM on how this canister looks and which/where is the vaccum hoses that will be coming from it)
- #5 (on side, near TB) Plugged


On this pic, ignore everything but number 7, I have that going to the PCV valve. Is that correct?








Also,
Question 1
Is anyone else still running the 00vi damper, if so, should i apply vaccum, or not... If so,would it be ok to tap it into the FPR vaccum line with a "T"?

Question 2
Since im not running egr, but i still have the 4thgen egr sensor plugged in and guide tube still attached, just bent out the way, do i need to block off the opening to the tube?

 

I do and thats what I did. Both are vacuum T off of #5 in the gallery and nothing else.

I plugged the EGR port on the header and removed all the EGR crap, sensor doesn't need to be plugged into anything.

None of this is going to matter on the getting the car to fire. Still say you have coil/ignition issues or SERIOUS vacuum problem. You have the FSMs for 4th and 00-01 gens? www.phatg20.net Study the hell out of the vacuum line pics. That was my biggest hangup then once I figured those out correctly the TPS gave me fits.
Throwing any CELs?

 

which setting should i have this meter on to check the 500-4000 ohms on the tps and what should it show(between 500-4000 or .5 - 4.0)?






and this reading should come from 2 & 3 on the other connection right, with the car ignition on?

 

guy, post pics of YOUR setup... nobody can help you with your terrible explanation without pics.. that's why people asked for them in the first place... hell, take a couple with a cameraphone, ok, then a friend's cameraphone...

people said it before, i'll say it again: if you really don't know what you're doing, Don't attempt the 00vi install, you will only mess up.. leave it someone who has done it before

 

Did the pix again today, they're not going through to my email...

I was told i NEED egr if im an automatic, going to get the tube tomorrow


IS there anyway someone can tell me how to run the vaccum for my setup... If its easier to get rid of egr, ill do it...I just need my car to run..Im at the point were im about to just get another vq30de and have it put in....itll be 5 days tomorrow..

 

set the voltimeter to ohms (horse-shoe shape) and 2k. It'll read 0.xxx for the low and x.xxx on the high end (atleast i think that is what it would show.)

edited after looking at the voltimeter you showed and asking my roomate (electrical engineer).

 

you are backprobing this while its plugged in,right? otherwise your doing it wrong.

 

Holy crap, sorry about that Ghost dude, I stand corrected. I went out to my car and took a peek and my bad lol

 

lol all good

 

OK, I went back today to work on it.....

- I poured fuel in the front three sparkplug holes(removed them 1st ofcourse) and tried cranking it, it TURNED OVER, then died again
Quick conclusion, getting spark, but is it getting fuel?
- SO, I pulled off the retun hose, fuel in it.
Quick conclusion, getting spark, getting fuel. Injectors working?
- Injectors, were getting power and signal...
Quick conclusion, CLOGGED FTL!

My father said, Since I got the parts off a junk yard car ($35 for EVERYTHING) the car had been sitting for who knows how long. The fuel probably slugged up in the injector therefor causing it to clog. It also didnt help that my cousin tried to help by cleaning the ports of the injectors with a paper towel(NO NO)


SO do you guys think this will work? (If not, im going to pull off the rail and replace them, reason im not doing that 1st is because im working outside and its about ~30degrees)

- Pull fuel pump fuse, crank a few times
- Remove feed, and return line from rail, block off the lines
- put a hose on the return side of the fuel rail with some vise grips closing the end.
- put another hose on the feed side and pour fuel injector cleaner into it...
- Vise grip that hose(with cleaner in rail)
-crank a few times( to prime the injectors with the cleaner and also raise the pressure)
- let it sit for a while
- drain the remaining cleaner
- reattach the feed and return line
- start car(hopefully)


Do you guys think this will work to clean out the injectors? If not, what should i do to clean them without removing them( if i have to i will though)



Thanks EVERYONE for your patience and help

Im severly brused up but happy

 

If you really think the injector cleaner's going to do any good, why waste more time - just pull them and let them soak overnight in cleaner. Quite frankly, if that's the problem, anything short of sending them out for cleaning is a long shot (IMNSHO). But then, I've been wrong before.

 

hmm....Imma try my setup and if it doesnt work, Im just going to go get 6 more injectors
They're free

 

Do yourself a favor and soak them then. That way you avoid the problem in the first place. Not saying the new ones WILL be clogged, but why waste time?

 

True, how long should it soak?

 

Soak them for about 5 hours man. It doesn't take long for the dirt and grime to come loose.

 

ok, for the 2 wires going to the injector connector. Should either one of those have constant power with the ignition on? I put a voltmeter to each wire on each injector with the ignition on and non were getting power.

Is this normal or should they have constant power with the ignition on?

 

OMG, I think i got it. Do we have fuses for the fuel injectors? If so, which fuse and where is it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????

 

also, can someone verify for me that the solid red wire going to the injectors is the ground, and if so, should i just cut it away from the harness and ground them to the timing cover?