I've been working on my 00vi swap for the last 6 hours.

Everything is going wrong...

For starters, I have
01 UIM
01 LIM
01 Fuel rail
01 Rear Injectors
01 Valve cover
01 TB
01 IACV
No EGR(factory block off {01vi})


Here are the f'ing problems...
- NO UIM rear mounts work, I was told i could use my 4th gen mounts.. NON WORK
- Factory 4th gen egr blocking the way crucially..and the 2 canisters under it
- Those 2 canisters are also preventing the TB from going all the way down.-.
- That assembly of hoses and tubing beside the canisters, under the tb, 1/2 of them have no home...
- that vaccum and valve,(i guess thats what it is, that sits on top of the 4gUIM has no mounting points.....

etc


Someone PLEASE help me before i blow this S**T UP!!!

 

Your problems are minor... don't sweat it. You just need to take a break, think things through. here are some suggestions:

- Don't need rear manifold mounts if you did the upper/lower bolts correctly
- Don't need any of the EGR stuff, or, at least you can move it outta the way
- You need to move the assembly of metal tubes out of the way or bend some of them.
- The EVAP solenoid? figure out a way to mount it or just let it live there attached to the vacuum tubing. not a big deal

You need to do a little teardown, take stuff apart (like egr, and the tube bundle) and then bend/rearrange so that everything fits together correctly.

 

thanks TomV... i took about a 4hours sleep last night, went and got new hoses fittings etc...Going to re-evaluate the canister issue...Im feeling alot better today...I just needed a break. About to head back to the garage, Ill keep you guys updated

 

that whole egr area is a hectic mess. I had to unbolt the egr hose gallery so i could seat the manifold properly, that way the gallery was loose enough to be pushed down by the throttlebody. I think the gallery only consists of 3 hoses, one of the hoses has 2 outlets, i think this is the vacuum line that connects to the underside of the throttle body, you plug the outlet you dont use.
like tomv said, it doesnt sound like anything major. hopefully you get it figured out. Personally, i took 3 days to do mine, so you seem to be making good time.

 

6 hours is nothing...lol..try 13 hours straight, on a parking lot in the summer.....

 

ok, cars not starting....

 

Make sure all your vacuum hoses are connected. Make sure the MAF is plugged in. Make sure everything is plugged in, for that matter.

Is it at least cranking? Is it not starting at all or is it just not staying running?

 

-are the injectors firing?
-Did you make the ground for the injector harness (since the 01 LIM doesnt have the bolt holes for the ground terminals, you're supposed to make your own little harness to be grounded somewhere)

 

this all sounds about right, i just got through all this. you will have it sorted out soon.

 

well I grounded the injectors to the manifold, the bolt that holds it down. Im going to run is somewhere else to see if it works..

How do i check the injectors, do i have to pull the fuel rail up?
MAF is plugged in..its the TB, the flex thing, the maf, the filter... Could the other hoses not being hooked up right now cause this problem?

the EVAP valve and that other thing with it that were on the 4gIM i left off and left the 3 hoses hanging, one i believe is a vaccum.. Anything wrong with that.

I also left the fuel rail (5thgen) factory spec by leaving the damper on it, I just ran the fuel lines normally and the vaccum line from that and the regulator to the unused nipple on the UIM

Problem there?


Sorry for so many question

 

-what is your fuel pressure at right now?

-easiest way to check if the injectors are firing is to get a screw driver or any long peice of metal, one end ontop of the injector, the other end to your ear. You should hear a clicking pattern (click click click click), not random firing (click... click clack!~ ...click) lol

-I suggest you try another ground. i ran mine to the timing cover.

-Does your IACV work? did u even keep the 5th gen one or did you block it off? Even if this is there and not hooked up, it should still allow for cranking and starting. It might just cause for an iratic idle, but it wont keep it from starting

-Also I dont quite understand. Did you mean that you are running the FPR's vaccum from the fuel damper? (it should be direct from manifold vaccum)

 

Well you didnt answer the question. What is happening with the car? Does it crank? Turn over and die? What? Make sure everything is hooked up. All your vacuum hoses need vacuum. You can't have one not connected. FPR has vacuum so that should be fine. I dont know about the damper cause I used 4th rails. I thought that even the EVAP hoses need to be connected if not being used.

 

Don't just think it's going to start and run if you don't have EVERYTHING hooked up. That means all hoses, all components, all plugs, proper grounds, etc.

You keep asking "Does this matter?" Yes, it does matter, everything matters. Just do everything right the first time, it makes troubleshooting so much easier.

 

I kept the 5th gen IACV, Could the tps be causing a problem...

Going to re-route all vaccum lines now...


tatanko
the car isnt starting at all, its turning over but not starting..

 

how does it turn over but not start? tps is not the problem. It will cause bad idle and tranny issues (at least for me). Make sure its all hooked up correctly. Could be the fuel rails if it won't actually start.

 

i mean, it trys to start but doesnt....

Can i check the fuel rail by checking the damper end to see if fuel i coming out(passing through)

 

hey! check that TPS calibration. Yes if its slightly off it would do like wat Cdg2125 is sayin (bad idle and tranny issues), but if its way off (such was the case with mine with the 3.5 swap at 1st, and also a friend's VI swap) it wont even start. Just crank and crank and nothing. So check that calibration (this is something you should have done regardless b4 you started cranking, never assume the stuff you buy is 100% ready to be dropped in)

 

how do i check if the tps is right?

 

check the FSM (haynes), it's explained very well how to check it.

 

dude come on you keep asking questions as if you expect everything you need to know to be given to you on a silver platter. FSM has that info for you

 

I thought this site was all about sharing... If I had the answer, I would give it to you right away!!! but keep asking you will find people how can help you!

 

It is about sharing and the answers have been shared here repeatedly for the last couple of years since the VI swap was pioneered.

 

Well if you have no idea what this swap even is you can't help at all. Just another post.

 

Please look at Ceaser's Chariot 00VI for Dummies. No Point intended.

 

Ive been through the FSM for the 4th and fifth gen, Have read over 50 threads(including the 00vi swap for dummies).. I am obviously asking question because i needed the assistance A.S.A.P..

No anger or anything but, if your going to reply in a smarta$$ way, why reply at all. All Im asking for is a little help, if you dont know the answer, dont reply. Ive been on here probably longer then most who replied, just because my post count is low doesnt mean Im a n00b, Jut mean i dont postwhore every damn thread possible...





Back on topic, I notice i was missing 4 bolts on the lower IM so i removed everything and installed them and am going to run through everything a second time to ensure it was right...Im jut going to do away with EGR and EVAP

 

If your following an installation sequence like u should be, how in the world do you miss 4 bolts on the LIM? thats half the sequence! shouldnt that have raised a red flag somewhere? Unless of course you're doing this installation w/o the sequences.

Anyways, since your LIM was only half on, I guarantee you that you had an UBBER vaccum leak. Im not saying that this was THE cause of your engine not startin, but truely its a big factor. Take care of that situation and give it another try

 

well, just got finished everything, checked the rail, both ends(since i still have the 5th gen damper) fuel wa flowing through... the car ACTS/SOUNDS like it wants to start now but isnt...Im going to try spraying fuel injector cleaner into the tb/ pouring it into the gas tank, whichever method i get.., about to go test the coilpacks... is there a write up for the vaccum lines for my set up? No egr or evap...
In the tube track, nothing is connected since it all had to do with evap or egr... I bypassed the coolant on the tb.... fuel lines are correct.


As for the vaccum, I have the vaccum from the damper and the regulator going to the unused nipple on the UIM..

Also, the little lever on the TPS should be resting on the arm on the throttlebody so when it opens, it turns the tps with it right?

1 more question. I DO have the 5th gen IACV, If by anychance it wasnt working properly, could i just BARELY open the butterfly valve and substitute it for the IACV

 

Correct with the tps. Not sure what you mean with the IACV question. Talk to Ceaser, I think he's running no evap so he'll know how to set up the hoses. You should have checked on that before doing the swap tho.

 

Yes but that means nothing. It can be resting on the lever and be out of wack, you MUST be sure its calibrated.

Depends, if its in a closed position then yea just turn the idle screw (the stopper at the TBs sring thing). In my case though my IACV was in an open position (PF TB), so it was reving to 2k at idle! I made a plate and sandwished it in bet'n the valve and the IACV. got rid of that problem like that.

 

Call me crazy, but as 95blkmax said, it's a ground.

That's the only reason it wouldn't start. Other than the MAF being unplugged or something stupid like that.

 

Well Im back at my house now, going back to the car ina bout 3hrs or so..

I tried grounding the wires to the timing chain cover and the battery via 12awg speaker wire...tested with a multimeter, was grounded right....cranked the car with the UIM off, and i can smell fuel in some of the LIM ports...dont know where to go from here...


Im going to DEFFINENTLY recheck the TPS, may set it to open, even if it idles at ~2k, as long as i can get it to start.

My set up is as follows..

-01vi everything no egr/no evap
-I kept the fuel damper
-vaccum hose from the fuel damper and FPR are joined at a "T" the other leg goes to the unused nipple ontop of the UIM
-the fuels lines are hooked up so the damper recieves the fuel(line coming from the fuel filter), regulator returns the fuel
- the air hose from the front valve cover was left hanging/open since it only plugs into the airbox for clean air
-the egr block off needed to be modified to fit so i left it off temporarly and filled the hole with jbweld puddy
-brake booster line hooked up to the end opposite end of the UIM
- the 2 nipples right by the tb, on the manifold side are blocked off
-The P/S, A/C (and that plug for the thing that looks like a 4thgen IACV, that mounts ontop of the manifold) were left unplugged
-Rear valve cover hose connects to front valve cover(the one on the left side)
-rear valve cover pvc connects to nipple ontop of the UIM
-the coolant lines on the bottom of the TB(IACV) were left open since it doesnt interfere with the idle air itself

 

post some pictures that would help alot

 

Even after you telling me this, i still love you!! I plan to do the VI swap this weekend and did my homeworks to get it right!! If I have problem with the swap just don't help me, I can still find people how can and still stay polite!!
thanks!!

 

Using stock or DEK rear coil packs? Just wondering since you used the 01 rear valve cover. It seem like it's getting any spark? Does it want to crank over at all?

 

stock,non update 01 coils, going to check them now for resistance...
it sounds like its SOO close to starting

 

n00bie question but, the fuel goes form the filter, in the damper(front) side of the fuel rail and out the back(regulator) side right?

 

I don't care.

ghostmax, make sure you check those coils because using de coils in the 5th gen cover could be a problem

 

Not enough to make it not start. I ran DE coils on the DEK rear valve cover for several months. It didn't have the best spark, but it still ran quite well. DEK rear coils simply get the spark down better because they make better contact with the spark plug (minute height differences can really make a difference, but the DE coils still make contact).

As stated above, WE NEED PICTURES. Pictures of everything involving your setup like manifolds, fuel, etc. Pictures would allow us to help you so much better.

 

ok,going to get pix in a hours or so

 

fuel should come in at the rear rail. the dampner end (the front rail) is where the return line to the fuel tank goes. Switch that around