Worst Luck EVER!!! engine swap!
im doing a 3.5 swap....
i got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i have it set up like this...
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator__________Return Line
Fuel Rail__________l___________Fuel Filter
...................(T-Fitting)....................
Is that not correct?
-anyone have any other tips for my swap?
No crank anymore, only hear one click when i try to turn the car on....
-I noticed that there are some Green Clips on the engine(2 I believe), and i have no idea what they are? they dont seem to clip into anything else..... does anyone know what they may be?
someone help....someone out there?
i got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i have it set up like this...
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator__________Return Line
Fuel Rail__________l___________Fuel Filter
...................(T-Fitting)....................
Is that not correct?
-anyone have any other tips for my swap?
No crank anymore, only hear one click when i try to turn the car on....
-I noticed that there are some Green Clips on the engine(2 I believe), and i have no idea what they are? they dont seem to clip into anything else..... does anyone know what they may be?
someone help....someone out there?
Originally Posted by Maximus_95
im doing a 3.5 swap....
i got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i have it set up like this...
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator__________Return Line
Fuel Rail__________l___________Fuel Filter
...................(T-Fitting)....................
Is that not correct?
i got an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and i have it set up like this...
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator__________Return Line
Fuel Rail__________l___________Fuel Filter
...................(T-Fitting)....................
Is that not correct?
maybe im running the wrong return line?
i noticed that there is another tubing that is loose, that comes along from the side of the return line....
-does the return line look different from the other tubing?
-does anyone have a clean picture of their engine bay without the 3.5 cover on where i can see most of the connections at least?
-how many exact clips are we not using? (except for the iacv clips)
I wish there was someone out here in So.Cal that has done this swap so i can use a sample to look over.... Too bad there isn't.
i noticed that there is another tubing that is loose, that comes along from the side of the return line....
-does the return line look different from the other tubing?
-does anyone have a clean picture of their engine bay without the 3.5 cover on where i can see most of the connections at least?
-how many exact clips are we not using? (except for the iacv clips)
I wish there was someone out here in So.Cal that has done this swap so i can use a sample to look over.... Too bad there isn't.
Im NOT using IACV EGR and EVAP clips, they're just hanging around. The return line runs along the side of the fuel filter, dont recall if left or right. The only other lines in that area that I can remember are the EVAP ones, but thats' on my 95, not sure if its different on the 97s
battery checked out ok, starter checked out ok.... i posted that earlier.... i guess nobody has any idea....
man...this swap is like a nightmare i swear haha.
hopefully someone could help me out soon.... my car is just sitting doing nothing....
that sucks, and i dont even have a spare car...
man...this swap is like a nightmare i swear haha.
hopefully someone could help me out soon.... my car is just sitting doing nothing....
that sucks, and i dont even have a spare car...
My car did the same thing but it was the alternator that wasnt grounded right.. We drove it around, brought it back... turned ignition off, then tried starting it... and then click, NOTHING else. We messed around with the connections to the alternator and it started up.
The other line that might be dangling is the line that goes into the EVAP vapor purge line... Get under the car and make sure your tee is connected to the fuel return line and not the EVAP.
As far as it just clicking, thats a grounding or electrical issue. Even it it was to be losing complete fuel pressure, the engine should still crank.
The other line that might be dangling is the line that goes into the EVAP vapor purge line... Get under the car and make sure your tee is connected to the fuel return line and not the EVAP.
As far as it just clicking, thats a grounding or electrical issue. Even it it was to be losing complete fuel pressure, the engine should still crank.
Originally Posted by 915Max
My car did the same thing but it was the alternator that wasnt grounded right.. We drove it around, brought it back... turned ignition off, then tried starting it... and then click, NOTHING else. We messed around with the connections to the alternator and it started up.
The other line that might be dangling is the line that goes into the EVAP vapor purge line... Get under the car and make sure your tee is connected to the fuel return line and not the EVAP.
As far as it just clicking, thats a grounding or electrical issue. Even it it was to be losing complete fuel pressure, the engine should still crank.
The other line that might be dangling is the line that goes into the EVAP vapor purge line... Get under the car and make sure your tee is connected to the fuel return line and not the EVAP.
As far as it just clicking, thats a grounding or electrical issue. Even it it was to be losing complete fuel pressure, the engine should still crank.
and as far as clicking, there is only one click now, and that click is heard when i turn the car on. just one click, not several like it used to.
where did you guys end up grounding your injectors?
Originally Posted by Maximus_95
alright guys.....
ive done everything right....
now started to crank the motor, but would not turn on.
took a look at the FPR, it goes up to 40-43 psi when cranking, then it goes back to 0 after we stop.
then car stopped cranking, all i hear is clicking....
thought it was the battery, took it to a local Autozone, they tested it, it came out its still a good battery.
thought it may be the starter, so took that off, took it to autozone again, they tested it, and it was fine, working properly....
what else could be the problem here?
now all i hear is clicking and no cranking anymore.....
ive done everything right....
now started to crank the motor, but would not turn on.
took a look at the FPR, it goes up to 40-43 psi when cranking, then it goes back to 0 after we stop.
then car stopped cranking, all i hear is clicking....
thought it was the battery, took it to a local Autozone, they tested it, it came out its still a good battery.
thought it may be the starter, so took that off, took it to autozone again, they tested it, and it was fine, working properly....
what else could be the problem here?
now all i hear is clicking and no cranking anymore.....
Honestly,most of them idiotzone fools do not know what they are doing,first test the battery in another car[a friends car maybe] to make sure it is ok,if it cranks ok,then make absolutely sure all your starter/ground wiring is ok...If all that checks out,then replace the starter...
Clicking? well yea dead battery will cause a clicking sound at the starter. Perhaps the battery drained while you were doing the swap since it didnt get any charge for couple days?
It still dosnt explain why your fuel pressure drops so quick after it primes.
It still dosnt explain why your fuel pressure drops so quick after it primes.
Originally Posted by Maximus_95
if i remember correctly, the evap line and the fuel return line are right next to eachother.... so i could not really tell exactly which one it is. both lines seem to direct towards the rear of the car...
and as far as clicking, there is only one click now, and that click is heard when i turn the car on. just one click, not several like it used to.
where did you guys end up grounding your injectors?
and as far as clicking, there is only one click now, and that click is heard when i turn the car on. just one click, not several like it used to.
where did you guys end up grounding your injectors?
As far as the return line and/or Evap line, you should be able to jack up the car and follow the lines to see where they go connected.
But like everyone else, I dont understand how the fuel pressure drops dramatically like that. Maybe its the gauge on the FPR or the FPR itself...
I know my gauge tends to get stuck, but then I tap it, and the needle jumps back up to 48-52, but thats Ebay for ya!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6spd4dsc
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
4
Mar 4, 2016 05:19 PM
doctorpullit
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
11
Sep 10, 2015 06:33 PM
Maxima30
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
Sep 7, 2015 06:13 PM





