So Im trying to prepare everything I need for this swap. The engine is in canada, anyone know what ill need to do about customs? also, i was wondering what your opions are on either connecting the vias, or just porting the manifold. Do I need the 3.5 wiring harness as well? and would it be worth it to throw an underdrive pulley on there while its out of the car? I know I need cam spacers and a new fpr. I already have a stage 2 clutch in my car. Anything Im missing? just trying to prep ahead of time.
thanks
zack

 

if you read the sticky http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880 most of the answers can be found there.

Don't know about customs, but UDP WILL be helpful. And you need some parts from the 3.5 wiring harness like the injector plugs but not the entire thing. Searching is your best friend. MOST answers will be found here. Just by searching myself i got these helpful links:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=egr
and the very nice write up by Tavarish
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270

good luck

Jesse

ps it also depends what you want to do with it: turbo or just bolt ons

 

I had already read those. mainly i needed to know about customs. also are the engines in canada any different than the engines in the United States? and I have a choice to either drill the cams or use jwt spacers correct? or do I need both?

 

You can either have the intake cams drilled, have new dowel pins made, and get 4 spacers
Or, you can get adapters for the intake cams and spacers for the exhaust cams from StephenMax.

 

If you use the JWT spacers, then you need to drill the cams.. StephenMax makes adapters which eliminate you having to drill the cams.

The only reason you would need the wiring harness is for the injector clips.

UDP-- your option.. I put mine on since I already had one. Havent checke dthe difference with and without it.. if you dont have one already, no need to get one, its not too much difference.

Out of curiousity, why did you buy the engine from Cancada... wouldnt it have been quicker and maybe less of a hassle finding it through carsparts.com.. maybe even cheaper... but I could be wrong.

 

I do not have the engine yet, Im just preparing ahead of time haha. The reason is im really close to the border and its an 03 with 25k miles on it for 860 dollars. I think thats a pretty sweet deal. So I need adaptors and jwt spacers then?

 

Basically if you don't want to drill the cams, stephen max can sell you adapters and spacers.
Thats a good amount of shear stress on an approx 1/8" of aluminum though..

 

would yall reccomend drilling the cams or putting adaptors on the cams? I plan on either a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous soon after the swap. What would yall reccomend for my cam setup?

 

I think the shot of NOS is irrelevant to the cams being drilled and/or adapters.... The only thing you really have to look at is
1) Do you know someone who knows where exactly to position the dowel hole
2) Do you trust them that they'll do it right
3) Do you want to remove the cams, send them out to get drilled, and then re-install them

or would you
1) pm StephanMax and get a price
2) order them from StephenMax
3) Paypal StephenMax
4) once you recieve them, just insert them into the cam, install the cam gear, and torque it properly.

Its just my opinion. I really dont think there is a difference other than the time and work... i could be wrong though

 

ok well i am just not sure what to do if i have plans of lots of power. The cams is the only thing that confuses me because it seems like theres a couple options.

 

And for added piece of mind, his adapters are now made of steel vs. aluminum like the old adapters.

 

Oh now he decides to do that! LOL

There you go mastercarter7, a stronger metal now for re-assurance... I would say dont waste your time in waiting for the engine to come, then disassemble the engine to remove the cams, then take time out of the build to go get them drilled, and then come back install them all over again.

While you're waiting for the engine to come in, order the adapters and by the time you get your engine, you'll have the adapters there or on their way to your house..
Time is a valuable thing! LOL

 

Nismo3112, are there any pictures of the new adapters?? I'm curious to see them. Do you know if he's still using the same type of dowel pin.. or is the dowel pin made out of steel too?

 

Steel or not, it's still weaker than a stock like setup. Theres a reason why the dowl pin did come sticking an 1/8" out of the cam in the first place.

 

The dowel pin came sticking out an 1/8 of inch so it can be inserted into the 3.5 cam gears... the 3.0 timing on the 3.5 is going to require modifications: spacers and dowel pins
Maybe i'm not understanding you but...

The dowel pin on the adapters stick out the same length as it would just drilling them. Actually, if you drill the cams.. won't you have to get a longer dowel pin, because you would still have to put in spacers?

I'm not an engineer or anything, but the way I see it, its the same thing.
With the adapters, yes the dowel pin has less re-inforcement because its just inserted into the spacer.

With the cam being drilled, the dowel pin is inserted into the cam, and through the spacer (more re-inforcement)

But all in all, the dowel pin is secure no matter what setup, so long as it is torqued right.. especially with steel spacers...
I actually think the smaller dowel pin, the more strength it may be able to hold.
Anyways, The dowel pin isnt going anywhere... especially with a steel base(spacer), unless of course, its either not torqued right, or its not put in right(put in crooked)

Do I even make sesne!!??

 

Actually the dowel pin is only sticking out 1/8 inch on each side of the adapter. The adapters just reposition the location of the dowel pin to adjust to the 3.0 timing gears.

 

There has only been one adapter-related failure so far. The adapter wasn't even what broke; the adapter's dowel pin snapped off. This points to insufficient torquing of the cam bolt. The brunt of the torque was being transferred through the adapter's dowel pin along with the stock dowel. Although this likely wouldn't have happened with a stock dowel-like setup, i'm confident that a properly torqued bolt results in stock dowel-like reliability, and the adapter's track record proves that. And this doesn't take away from the importance of proper torque specifications, no matter which setup is being used.

 

The dowel pin on the adapter goes into the cam gear a good amount but since the adapter is only around an 1/8" thick, theres only an 1/8" of material supporting the load in the adapter. Torquing it properly will result in less load on the pin in the adapter but it's still not as good as stock. Thats all I'm trying to say.
Yep, you get longer pins by whoever does the drilling, or at least you should.