Alright guys....
i have redone the timing, everything seemed perfect, triple checked it, and there should be no problem with that.
Tried to turn on the car, will not start.
Checked for some Codes, here's what i got.

0803 (Absolute Pressure Sensor)
0807 (Evap Canister Purge Control Valve/Selenoid Valve Circuit)
1008 (Evap Canister Purge Volume Control Valve)
1302 (Map/Baro SW Solenoid Valve)

Can any of these cause my car not to start?

Maybe its my FPR.
I bought it from a fellow member SARD Adjustable FPR and when i crank the car, pressure gauge rises to about 20-25 then drops back down to 0.
I dont know why its doing that....Any SARD users know if there is something i need to do? the top niple, is that for vacum, and if so, does it have to be plugged with something to work?
Or does it seem like my FPR is broken?

This is how i have the FPR Hooked up.

Fuel Rail--------T--------Fuel Filter
Adjustable Fuel Pessure Regulator------------Fuel Return Line

Any help is appreciated, thanx.

Peter

 

From my understanding, you do need the vaccum line connected to the FPR.

When I got my car going, I also had the 0803 and the 1302--- After a long while of questioning, I decided to plug those up to a vacuum source and see if the code erased... and they did.
I really havent had a chance to work on the car within the past month so I still have the 0807 code, but i'm gonna work on a way to maybe utilize the vacuum line/rail off of the 3.0 and plug into the 3.5, this way I can route all those sensors that need vaccum lines connected.. maybe that would remove the codes.

I dont know if there's an easier way to do it.. but since it worked with the MAP/BARO solenoid and the Absolute pressure sensor, I figured it should work for the EVAp as well.
The only problem is that I want to have one solid source of vacuum for the FPR, and then one for the MAP/BARO & EVAP... so we'll see!

 

uhmm....icic.
man, hopefully ill get this thing started tomorrow.
i have some extreme bad luck... i bought a used fpr from a member (SARD) and its actually not working properly.... i ended up ordering a brand new one, and now, one of the threading inlet in the fpr is not accepting any fitting to screw into it, even the one that came with the fpr. but on the other side it fits perfectly....
anyways....hopefully my car was not starting due to my old fpr, but if my car still does not start from there, then i really dont know whats up.

 

Good Luck!

 

You don't need a vacuum source to be attached to the FPR for the car to start. Fuel pressure shouldn't be dropping that quickly. Either the SARD is installed incorrectly, or it's faulty.

 

im hoping that car is not starting due to a bad fpr...
well....heading off to my car now.... wish me luck.
thanx for the help guys.
ill post here for any additional questions....

 

alrighty...here's the update....
i got a new code....
0407 (Crank Position Sensor REF)
I had the sensor checked with a voltmeter and its ok.
Im currently using the 3.5 oil pan with the 3.0 sensor which i have shaved about a 1/4" to make it work, but im still getting that code.
car seems to almost start, but wont turn on.
I was also looking at the Crank Positoin Sensor (POS) that sits on front of the tranny, and i have noticed that the 3.5 block has a hump about 1/2" where that sensor sits making the sensor further than its supposed to be from the flywheel. I checked out my old motor from 3.0 and it seems flush....here's a pic. of the hump bellow...(Picture from under the car)

(Right Side (Black color) is Tranny, left side with hump, the engine)

can this cause a problem?
I do not have any codes from this sensor.
thanx...

 

Yep, that is most likely your problem. Since the sensor is not close enough to the flywheel ring, the injectors won't work?
I think you won't get a code if the sensor is functioning correctly and is positioned too far away.

 

well.... im not geting a code from the sensor (POS) from the picture shown above.
im only getting a code for the sensor that sits right next to the oil pan.

do you know how close the magnet needs to be within the crank pulley notches?
do you guys know if the Crank Position Sensor (POS) can be off by looking at the picture above even though i do not have any codes from it?

 

When I did my swap I shaved it till it was about flush with the tranny. Btw sard fpr suck monkey nuts. I had one and it wouldn't stop leaking and I eventually broke the fitting in it

 

I used the 35 pan and 35 POS sensor so i was able to avoid this. I would think more people would use the 3.5 sensor. it saves alot of time.

 

Pretty much. The CPS should be matched up to the oil pan being used. Way moar convenientz.

 

Wow, I never knew the 3.5 CPS area looked like that.. I used the 3.0 pan without a problem.


^^^Best route if your 3.5 doesn't come with a CPS.

 

so can someone answer my question?........
i really need to know if that part needs to be shaved down for the cps (pos)?
-Im using the 3.0 sensor (ref) and shaved down 1/4" because my motor did not come with a cps sensor. Looked for one, but did not find it....

anyone?....

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...9&postcount=10

 

thats that part you need to keep shaving till its about flush with the tranny.

 

I agree. It might take an extra 30 mins, but its easier (to me) to put the 3.0 pan on, and not have to re-wire anything, and its less likely you'll have a problem with it later and potentially need to trouble shoot anything.

 

I agree. Plus you can probably sell the 3.5 oil pan and get some cash. LOL

Sorry, I got a broke man's mind right now... no more funds for the Max

 

Some people do not get the sensor with the motor and I understand that they do not want to spend more money to get one. Think of it this way. you will get a whole alot more for a complete 3.0 from a junkyard(with out timing stuff from the junkyard I dealt with) and also get more for a unmodified 3.5 block.

All I'm say here is that the POS sensor is hooked up to a harness. Not the main harness. The harness has 3 wires and takes 5 minutes to rewire and solder TOPS. F-up the harness, buy a new harness, cost maybe $20. F-up the block, well thats a bit more.

EDITED for clarity.

 

You do realize you have to use the 3.0 timing equipment right? Now who would want to buy a 3.0 without any of the timing equipment?

Why do all that when you have the 3.0 pan sitting right in front of you... And all you have to do is install it.......................? The 2 3.5's I received did not come with a CPS..

 

If you are refering to the Crankshaft Position Sensor for the crank pulley side, that's because there isn't one. The 3.5 crank pulley (as you know) has no signal teeth on it. The crank position signal is received from the flywheel side sensor, and the cam position is received from the left and right bank cam sensors on the 3.5 ECU. This all goes back to the main reason why we have to change the timing equipment - Different sensors (and of course VTC's).

 

I'm pretty sure he's referring to the CPS (POS) by the bellhousing.

 

dingdingding

 

well....tomorrow, ill pick up that sensor....lets hope everything works out.
thanx guys....

one more question....
out of curiosity, the CPS that sits under the Crank Pulley, is that the same sensor for the 97-99 and 2000-2001? or are they different?

 

Which sensor?
It's the same. 23731-31U11

 

Getting a 3.5 CPS is probably the easiest route if you dont mind spending money on it, all you have to do splice the connector in.

For abci30's swap, the 3.5 CPS (POS) was cracked so we couldnt use it. I grinded down that "hump" on the bell housing (engine side) so the sensor was close enough to the flywheel ring. You have to be careful doing this because you have to grind at the correct angle and make sure the sensor is close enough to the ring. I did it when the trans was off so that allowed me to see the distance the sensor was to the ring. I dont recommend doing this with the trans on because you cant see where the sensor magnet is going to end up.

That should definitly be your problem because with the 3.0 sensor just bolted on the "hump" it was way off. Good luck with everything.

 

cool thanx.
i need to get that sensor too, since mine was damaged.
i went to a local junkyard and they had that sensor from a 01 max, but did not know it was the same.

as far as the CPS on the tranny, to rewire, do i just color code it?
i realized that for the 3.5 CPS, if you hold both clips from the 3.0 and the 3.5, the middle wire (White) is the same on both harness, but the red and the black is switched up. do i wire it according to color or the position of the wire?

 

Get it from a 3.5 only. Wire it according to color. That is how it worked for me.

 

i know, i need to replace my CPS under the crank pulley for my 3.0 and i have the 3.5 CPS that sits on front of the tranny....
are you sure about the color coding?
i held both of the harness up from the 3.0 and the 3.5, but the red and black color are switched up from left to right.

 

Wire it according to color, not position, like Stabone said.

 

Here are some pics from mine. I ripped all the electrical tape off for this thread, so hopefully this will make it more clear for you. Bottom pic shows the 3.5 plug spliced in place of the 3.0 plug and like said before, the colors match up.





My car is due for a big spring cleaning

 

alright guys....
i finally got my car started....
but im having a fuel issue now....
so here's the deal.
i hooked up my fpr and all (Brand new one SARD), primed the system.... and the gauge was showing 56 psi. then finally when i turned the car on, the pressure started dropping...
i tried adjusting the fpr, but no change, then the car wants to die because of no fuel after being on idle for about 30 seconds.....
i changed the fuel filter in case it was clogged, but same thing.
possibility that the gauge might be broken?

 

It's possible, but it's also possible that you got another bum FPR. Make sure the lines aren't backwards on the FPR either.

 

what he said^^. its possible you got the in/out of the FRP backwards, it would do that.

Hey man congrats on finally getting the engine to start! Its a big stress off your shoulders. Now its only simple/ easy stuff to fix and you'll be having some serious fun on the streets and tracks. Just this tuesday, after having the SSIM, Ive been flooring it from low RPMs and reving up through the powerband. Steering wheel would go nuts. But this time, I punched it from around 5500 (where I suspect the SSIM moved my torque peak, will confirm on the next dyno) and the torque steer was so insane (keep in mind I still dont have my P/S on, lol) that I didnt hold the wheel as hard as I should have.... I was on the right lane, Tq steer jerked the car to the left lane.... that was sick!!!!!!!! BAHHAHAA 3.5 FTMFW!

 

It would be great if you could post some pictures of the fuel setup. Then we really can see how you have it installed.

 

im a 100% that the fuel set up is perfectly fine.
-you guys think my fuel pump might be getting weak?
-hey dan, i comfirmed the inlet and outlet of the fpr, and its not backwards....
-you guys think any ordinary gauge will work, from a local autozone or kragens?

 

congrats on actually getting the car to start up, should be trial and error to diagnose the fuel problem now.

 

maybe the 3.5 cps not being on mine is causing my starting problem, but no junkyards near me have anything for maximas, can u get that sensor from a parts stores

 

Congrats Maximus! Hopefully the problem is something minor... and hopefully you didnt buy another defective FPR. At least you know it came to life with no knocks or pings. Congrats again!!

 

oh i know.... thanx everyone for the help....
but now the fuel problem....
if the fuel pump is bad.... i wouldn't get any pressure correct?
why when i prime the system, i get over 50psi but when the car is on, it starts droping? anyone have any idea?