Larger MAF, fuel and timing mod
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Not sure if you meant that toward me but:
I don't have any problems aside from my small idle problem that I've fixed.
I don't have any problems aside from my small idle problem that I've fixed.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Back to the question at hand: It's designed to work w/ MAP equipped cars, period. That's the reason why everyone thought they only work w/ Hondas. There may or may not be a way to alter the signal like SAFC users, but if you have a wb, then tune away tuner people.
You could sit there for about an hour trying different IN/OUT settings, so if you've got the extra time, try that instead.
You could sit there for about an hour trying different IN/OUT settings, so if you've got the extra time, try that instead.
Oh how amazing, a larger MAF mod by Manny.. that yields an amazing
.00234 chp and .00000009 ft.lbs.tq.
and we cant forget that throttle response (in reality its you sobering up every morning after you sleep with your best friend crown royal all night)
(runs)
.00234 chp and .00000009 ft.lbs.tq.
and we cant forget that throttle response (in reality its you sobering up every morning after you sleep with your best friend crown royal all night)
(runs)
Yeah my settings ranged from -11 to -7, and i put it to +5 all across the board, and it runs much better, but still not like it did with my stock maf and rough wb02 tune. Im just going to put in my stock maf until i can get it dyno tuned with the 3" maf. I dont really want to tune by 'feel' because that's not really the smartest thing to do. I sold my wb02 a month ago thinking that i'm done modding!
As to the idle question...my idle is very low and 'loopy' but that's because i dont have an IACV on my car, so obviously any airflow changes will affect the idle. The idle can be fixed very easily with the adjustment screw.
As to the idle question...my idle is very low and 'loopy' but that's because i dont have an IACV on my car, so obviously any airflow changes will affect the idle. The idle can be fixed very easily with the adjustment screw.
So let me ask a question, this thread is very long so i haven't found this specific question. I have a stock 4thgen/3rdgen MAF which is maxed out at 10psi (5.0v), Will doing what 95blkmax did possibly allow me to increase boost and not max out the maf signal? basically getting the maf i have, and putting the sensor into a wider diameter pipe.
Reason being is that, I dont wanna spend the money for a z32 maf right now, so if this works. im all in.
Reason being is that, I dont wanna spend the money for a z32 maf right now, so if this works. im all in.
Originally Posted by nismology
10 character rule. Instead of putting "10chars" at the end of the post I put "10pounds". Doesn't really mean anything.
Larger inner diameter = reduced velocity of the air passing over the hotwire element for a given volume of airflow. Lower velocity = less heat removed from the hotwire. This translates into less voltage required from the ECU to maintain the prescribed temperature of the hotwire, and less measured airflow info sent to the ECU. So the MAF can handle more CFM without maxing out, just like a Z32 MAF. The same principle is what causes cars to go lean with larger MAF housings and no a/f corrections.
Originally Posted by nismology
Larger inner diameter = reduced velocity of the air passing over the hotwire element for a given volume of airflow. Lower velocity = less heat removed from the hotwire. This translates into less voltage required from the ECU to maintain the prescribed temperature of the hotwire, and less measured airflow info sent to the ECU. So the MAF can handle more CFM without maxing out, just like a Z32 MAF. The same principle is what causes cars to go lean with larger MAF housings and no a/f corrections.
Now, the z32 maf will not max out because of the calibration correct? because the VG maf i have in the car (which is from you 3rd then i think LOL) is physically the same exact size as the z32. So calibration for the z32 should be what allows it to accept more flow and not the size. correct?
Calibration is different. Seems, form your post, that you've read this before. But if not, this is good reading re: Z32TTMAF
Courtesy of I30tMikeD.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=459787
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Calibration is different. Seems, form your post, that you've read this before. But if not, this is good reading re: Z32TTMAF
Courtesy of I30tMikeD.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=459787
I just wanna make sure that if i do this 3" maf rig, i can up the boost without maxing out the maf voltage.
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
NMexMax I finally got around to doing this last week. Im not using an 82mm device, but I am keeping the same ID of the intake tube track (3" ID, now a 3" MAF to match). Just off the bat, yes response feels better. I went to tune the car last weekend (I'll post up results from that dyno once they email me my runfiles. For some reason, they used STD cor instead of SAE like they usually use. Comparing my old printout from another STD cor dyno, peak #s are in the same area, but I gained ~10whp at redline. I put ~ because I dont want to put official #s until I have the runfiles and put it to SAE #s. The temp is the dyno was 101*F, so I know temp correction alone is gonna show more realistic #s from my setup).
Nismology drove my car before and after, and he agrees with my findings that it definatly holds power better up top, feels more linear overall. Its an EXCELLENT complement to the "worked" IM. So now I have an intake that is 3"ID from the filter to the IM's elbow (PF and 3.5 eTB are 75mm ID, so ~3"). I guess at one point, the stock MAF is indeed a restriction.
Used-
Stock A32 MAF sensor + reciprocating saw + 3" ID (76.5mm) PVC pipe from HomeDepot + Epoxy= $10 3" MAF
1st you cut the stocker
2nd you cut more and smooth out the edges
3rd drill hole onto the PVC to clear the hotwire/airfoil through. I stuffed JBQuick around the top of the airfoil/ bottom of the "brainbox" to seal around the hole, then I used epoxy to seal the "brainbox" to the PVC pipe. Once it dried up I got my dremel and smoothed out the JB Quick to match the contours of the airfoil (these pictures are from before I smoothed it out, so you see the clump of JBQ, lol)
4th (no pictures of that yet) I spray painted it all Aluminum silver, bored out the original opening of the stock MAF (took out the screen) and epoxy'd it to the front of the new MAF, so it now has a filter on it.
Credits- NMexMax and 915Max
Official dyno #s are pending until the shop emails me the runfiles.
Nismology drove my car before and after, and he agrees with my findings that it definatly holds power better up top, feels more linear overall. Its an EXCELLENT complement to the "worked" IM. So now I have an intake that is 3"ID from the filter to the IM's elbow (PF and 3.5 eTB are 75mm ID, so ~3"). I guess at one point, the stock MAF is indeed a restriction.
--------------------------------------------------------
Used-
Stock A32 MAF sensor + reciprocating saw + 3" ID (76.5mm) PVC pipe from HomeDepot + Epoxy= $10 3" MAF
1st you cut the stocker
2nd you cut more and smooth out the edges
3rd drill hole onto the PVC to clear the hotwire/airfoil through. I stuffed JBQuick around the top of the airfoil/ bottom of the "brainbox" to seal around the hole, then I used epoxy to seal the "brainbox" to the PVC pipe. Once it dried up I got my dremel and smoothed out the JB Quick to match the contours of the airfoil (these pictures are from before I smoothed it out, so you see the clump of JBQ, lol)
4th (no pictures of that yet) I spray painted it all Aluminum silver, bored out the original opening of the stock MAF (took out the screen) and epoxy'd it to the front of the new MAF, so it now has a filter on it.
Credits- NMexMax and 915Max
Official dyno #s are pending until the shop emails me the runfiles.
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
I have a question, since you glued on the 4bolt adapter to the pcv pipe, arent you still restricting the air flow with that adapter. the adapter is same ID as the MAF, or did you cut it flush with the square and port it out?
Originally Posted by DasYears
im not sure what he did, but you can bore that pretty good. i managed to get my stock (2002) MAF tube out to 75mm. that included the flange until i cut it off.
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Cool, what did you use to bore it out?
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
oh crap. i dont have a press or access to one lol. doing by hand might be a difficult task, i might just use a low grit sand paper, its going to take all day to bore it like that lol
Originally Posted by DasYears
im not sure what he did, but you can bore that pretty good. i managed to get my stock (2002) MAF tube out to 75mm. that included the flange until i cut it off.
Dremel is the tool that I used there
A32 MAF =/ A33B MAF. Simplistics aside, the operation is much different. Meaning the A33B sensor is no where near the A32. BUT, 3" ID should prove to handle more boost. Anything after that(greater than) you may need another housing.
Well i just finished my 3" pvc MAF, at idle it was rather lean. at 16.#, before it was in the 13's. The emanage has this feature that you can put the Before injector CC, and the After injector CC, and it gives you a ratio, it uses this ration to adjust your corrections, so that way you dont have to make changes on the corrections, only this injector ratio. So i played around with that till the idle was in the 13's or low 14's, I drove around. I "think" it feels more responsive and rev's a little quicker. I didnt go WOT yet because i didnt wanna get into too much boost, i wanna make sure the Epoxy is completely dry. I put a ziptie around the maf brain and the pipe to make sure underboost it dosnt come up n fly off the pipe lol.
Use the EBs MAF correction features for the MAF correction instead of injector correction.
Set the hardware dial to the Q45 MAF and set the software to the A33/Z33 MAF. I don't remember exactly what those settings are. I'll have to look at mine to see.
After you do that, be sure to monitor the Input and Output MAF voltages and you'll see the difference.
Set the hardware dial to the Q45 MAF and set the software to the A33/Z33 MAF. I don't remember exactly what those settings are. I'll have to look at mine to see.
After you do that, be sure to monitor the Input and Output MAF voltages and you'll see the difference.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Use the EBs MAF correction features for the MAF correction instead of injector correction.
Set the hardware dial to the Q45 MAF and set the software to the A33/Z33 MAF. I don't remember exactly what those settings are. I'll have to look at mine to see.
After you do that, be sure to monitor the Input and Output MAF voltages and you'll see the difference.
Set the hardware dial to the Q45 MAF and set the software to the A33/Z33 MAF. I don't remember exactly what those settings are. I'll have to look at mine to see.
After you do that, be sure to monitor the Input and Output MAF voltages and you'll see the difference.
I didn't mean the 5 dials on the front.
Didn't you set the hardware settings of the Emanage when you installed it? You have to set the MAF input selector inside the EB. Your WOT settings may be close but the MAF change made your low and part throttle settings go to crap.
Didn't you set the hardware settings of the Emanage when you installed it? You have to set the MAF input selector inside the EB. Your WOT settings may be close but the MAF change made your low and part throttle settings go to crap.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I didn't mean the 5 dials on the front.
Didn't you set the hardware settings of the Emanage when you installed it? You have to set the MAF input selector inside the EB. Your WOT settings may be close but the MAF change made your low and part throttle settings go to crap.
Didn't you set the hardware settings of the Emanage when you installed it? You have to set the MAF input selector inside the EB. Your WOT settings may be close but the MAF change made your low and part throttle settings go to crap.
I have a question. Been reading other threads also, but still looking for a solidified answer as to if someone found a properly working In/Out setting for the VAFC-II using the 82mm maf housing? Some direction would be great.
As per the earlier discussion in this thread, I do not think it's possible to modify IN/OUT settings on the VAFC in this particular application. But it is still possible to get it to work. If you have a WBO2, w/ live readout, it is possible to 'raw' tune the AFR, albeit a bit more time consuming and semi frustrating. It is even possible to do so w/o a live AFR readout, but that will amplify the frustrating/time consuming part even more.
So, unless you can try every possible IN/OUT combination
+ calculator = 
amount of combinations.
The time you spend trying to find the right combo, you could have gone out and bought a WB and have a semi decent street tune, and head to the dyno.
So, unless you can try every possible IN/OUT combination
+ calculator = amount of combinations. The time you spend trying to find the right combo, you could have gone out and bought a WB and have a semi decent street tune, and head to the dyno.
As per the earlier discussion in this thread, I do not think it's possible to modify IN/OUT settings on the VAFC in this particular application. But it is still possible to get it to work. If you have a WBO2, w/ live readout, it is possible to 'raw' tune the AFR, albeit a bit more time consuming and semi frustrating. It is even possible to do so w/o a live AFR readout, but that will amplify the frustrating/time consuming part even more.
So, unless you can try every possible IN/OUT combination + calculator = amount of combinations.
The time you spend trying to find the right combo, you could have gone out and bought a WB and have a semi decent street tune, and head to the dyno.
So, unless you can try every possible IN/OUT combination
+ calculator = amount of combinations. The time you spend trying to find the right combo, you could have gone out and bought a WB and have a semi decent street tune, and head to the dyno.
I guess I'll have to ask SR to borrow his wideband while he has it out of his car when I'm ready to put it in. I figured it'd be my luck to not have as smooth as a time marrying the 2 together.Also, you don't have to reply to my pm regarding the manifold, I found the answer I was looking for (searching and reading). Re-modding from not being in the game for sometime sucks. There's new stuff I missed from then till now, and seems like I have to start my search from scratch. O well, should be better this time around with more toys to play with. Thanks man.
yeah i tried the 82mm MAF with the VAFCII, hard a hard time getting it to idle decent then it ran pig rich and it felt slower to me... so i ditched the VAFCII and grabbed a SAFCII, much much better now...
Now I've read the mentioning of the EB being capable of handling this task, I can only assume that the EU will be quite capable as well, amirite?
I just re-read this thread, but am still a tad confused. Who has done this with an A32 MAF? It looks like everybody here has been doing it on the A33b MAF, but maybe I missed something. Would using the A32 MAF as a starting point change anything?
Will I encounter any problems trying to tune a SAFV/VAFC with a JWT ECU? I remember hearing once a while back that the two don't mix very well, but that might have been JWT mumbo-jumbo. I'm going a tad lean above 6000 anyways, so I could probably benefit from a VAFC even without the MAF mod.
Is there a consensus for if the VAFC is better than the SAFC because of more correction points or vice versa because the VAFC doesn't work so well above 6000? I have a WB O2, but I don't think it does datalogging, if that matters.
Will I encounter any problems trying to tune a SAFV/VAFC with a JWT ECU? I remember hearing once a while back that the two don't mix very well, but that might have been JWT mumbo-jumbo. I'm going a tad lean above 6000 anyways, so I could probably benefit from a VAFC even without the MAF mod.
Is there a consensus for if the VAFC is better than the SAFC because of more correction points or vice versa because the VAFC doesn't work so well above 6000? I have a WB O2, but I don't think it does datalogging, if that matters.
Ok, I re-read it again. Here's what I found, please correct me if I'm wrong.
First, your links in posts 19, 62 and 64 are dead. Where were they supposed to go? I think some valuable info was lost when those links died. Could you tell me where they were going?
2. The VAFC can't do the conversion directly, and likely isn't worth the trouble. However, the SAFC has timing loss problems above 6000 rpm, but is still the best bet aside from EB/EU. The VAFC is much more difficult to use for this than a SAFC.
3. People have used the SAFC in addition to a TS ECU. I didn't see anyone use a JWT+SAFC, but I'll assume it's the same deal as the TS.
4. 95BLKMAX used a hacked A32 MAF instead of buying the Rover MAF (82 mm unit for $110). Same result, less money.
So...is this correct?
First, your links in posts 19, 62 and 64 are dead. Where were they supposed to go? I think some valuable info was lost when those links died. Could you tell me where they were going?
2. The VAFC can't do the conversion directly, and likely isn't worth the trouble. However, the SAFC has timing loss problems above 6000 rpm, but is still the best bet aside from EB/EU. The VAFC is much more difficult to use for this than a SAFC.
3. People have used the SAFC in addition to a TS ECU. I didn't see anyone use a JWT+SAFC, but I'll assume it's the same deal as the TS.
4. 95BLKMAX used a hacked A32 MAF instead of buying the Rover MAF (82 mm unit for $110). Same result, less money.
So...is this correct?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543975. If it doesn’t work, (i.e. single post link) I can go in and see what I linked and elaborate further when I have some more time.
Yes, but the main reason is because the MAF’s are different (A32 vs A33)
Read this for more info.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543975. If it doesn’t work, (i.e. single post link) I can go in and see what I linked and elaborate further when I have some more time.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543975. If it doesn’t work, (i.e. single post link) I can go in and see what I linked and elaborate further when I have some more time.
This is the thing I'm most confused with at this point. So the Rover MAF bolts right up to the A33b, but not the A32. So, if I understand this correctly, the only option for A32 guys is to hack up their stock MAF and fab it into some PVC piping? Wouldn't this negate the need to change the in/out settings on the SAFC? Is 95BLKMAX the only one to do this so far on a 4th gen?
Last edited by 95maxrider; Feb 5, 2008 at 04:52 PM.
This is the thing I'm most confused with at this point. So the Rover MAF bolts right up to the A33b, but not the A32. So, if I understand this correctly, the only option for A32 guys is to hack up their stock MAF and fab it into some PVC piping? Wouldn't this negate the need to change the in/out settings on the SAFC? Is 95BLKMAX the only one to do this so far on a 4th gen?
For clarification, the 00-03 MAF bolts right into the Rover housing.
Not sure what you meant, but even in the case of the A33, we are still using the same Maxima MAF sensor we're just tossing it into a different housing. The settings calibrates the sensor for the added size (decreased flow)