that is true. At WOT, an exhaust leak will simply hinder exhaust velocity, which depending on how big the leak is, might not do anything noticeable to power output.

 

well i no longer have an exhaust leak, its been fixed but still have huge power loss.....
still got lots of traction on 1st so i know its something big for my car to do that.
what are other possibilities for a car to run lean?
maybe a vaccum leak somewhere?
i checked for codes, and the only ones i got are the ones i posted earlier...
here it is again for those that did not see it.
-Another thing i noticed is that when i adjust the TPS to .5 volts, my idle goes up to 1800rpm...... any ideas?

1008 - EVAP canister purge volume control valve
1302 - MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
0205 - Idle Speed Control
0305 - EGR Temp Sensor
0803 - Absolute Pressure Sensor
0807 - EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
1005 - EGRC Solenoid valve

The one that stands out i guess is this one.....

0101 - Camshaft Position Sensor (Where is this one located? top of the timing cover?)

 

bump........
still cant figure out what the problem is on my car....

 

Have you done anything in order to try to fix some of those codes?

 

well i've heard that all these codes are normal after the swap....

 

But it doesn't make every single car code free. It depends on how the swap is done... If hoses/lines aren't where they need to be, codes will crop up.

 

We can only help you so much with the information given. We can tell you possible problems, but you have to try and fix them and then come back and give us input.

 

(edited, more info added) yes, camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the timing cover in front of the engine mount, and you shouldn't have that code, clear it and see if it comes back (since a hard start can trip it), then double check the 4 grounds on the front injector harness/IM and refer to EC pg. 197 of the FSM. If you're still getting the code and EVERYTHING with the cam sensor and circuit checks out you should get a gauge and post up your manifold vacuum at idle to verify that your cam timing isn't off, since I 'beleive' (not positive) that would also cause the ecu to detect a malfunction of the cam sensor. Good luck and hope you get it sorted out.

 

is it possible that the position you left the crank pos sensor at is just SLIGHTLY off? and therefore your timing could be retarded a little without you knowing? would be hard to check that though if it is possible to have that problem

 

Nah, there's no way to have the sensor's position off. Its the magnetic pickup and an "ear" that sicks out with a bolt hole for you to run the bolt through to its mounting point on the timing cover

 

well i would start by checking that cam pos sensor

 

I'm seeing results all over the place here, from 250 to 500 miles per tank - does anyone have actual before and after MPG numbers for the swap, so at least the car and driving conditions are consistent?

 

no way to say it ma, every1 here drives diferently. I drive pretty spirited, especially on the highway. Im that guy that flys by at 95mph on a 60, lol. With that driving I have to push the car towards the low fuel light to get to 300mi for the tankful. If I drive sanely however (accelerate normally and cruise 80ish) I can get 320 at the low fuel light.

Others here get 400+. Its all in how you drive meng

 

well.....i guess i had to tune the car a bit....
now im getting over 300 easily so that's a good thing....
thanx for the help guys....

 

what the hell peter? when did this mod come about for you??? who helped you do it?

 

doode, its been couple of weeks now, maybe a month?
i did it with a buddy of mine an some help from john... that's it...
when you going to do your brakes?

 

i have all the parts necessary for the brakes except the calipers. i got em from amazon and they are on back order. they suppose to come in early june