What are you guys getting, mileage wise out of a full tank?
Just wondering to see if my car is running really bad with the mileage im getting.
Thanx to all those that helped me out with my swap.... I had so many problems, things braking and not working properly, but now its all done.
All i have to take care of now is my clunking noise and my fuel pressure....
And of course, gas mileage.

Thanx.

Peter

 

I think I remember getting 400+ to the tank one time.. All highway.

 

i get 320-350 per tank. usually get 28-29 on the freeway. I'm happy with the mileage.

 

Man u guys most drive nice, lol. My highway driving (drive cross county bet'n work/school n home) is cruising... at 90mph, lol. On the street I dont speed that much, but I do love accelerating it to my crusing speed (usually 5-10mph faster than w/e the speed limit is, except for school zones and residentials, I dont play in those areas).

Anyways, my average for 50/50 highway/ street is 18.6-19.2MPG. When doing 80/20 highway/ street, I get about ~22.5mpg.

Just for reference, I have a code for right bank o2 sensor, so that might be affecting my milage.... not as much as I think my heavy foot does, but its doing something to it.

 

geez.... i think there's something wrong...
my first tank after this swap, right now im almost out of gas and i just hit 240... i doubt ill hit 260 on this.
is that normal? of course not.. what do you guys think it may be?
i replaced the fuel filter already with this swap... so dont think this is it. or do i have to get a fuel filter for the 3.5? i guessing they should be the same right?

 

cant do it, 5.5 gens dont have an external fuel filter, its internal to the gas tank (pretty much the fuel pump strainer). If the filter you have in there is new then thats not an issue. I would just give your ECU some time to adjust to the bigger injectors. If you still have crappy milage after 3-4 tank fulls, then you might have something going on

 

I usually get 300 out of a tank, and that is with mixed highway/city driving. I just got 320ish/tank driving to Daytona this weekend, but it sill wasn't all highway driving, and I have an exhaust leak right now.

 

man, my exhaust is also pretty loud, thinking about adding another resonator and also my flex pipe might be leaking a bit too....
well lets see, hopefully my mileage improves after a few tanks.
how much oil you guys putting on every oil change?
4.5qts or 5qts?

 

4 1/4 is the maximum amount specified. Same as the 3.0.

 

Pete, have you tried hooking up a WB to see what your af is?

 

City/Highway mix I get around 300 (mostly city).

All Highway I've gotten 560. Driving to Florida (can't drive slowly) 480.

 

This thread is about 3.5 swaps running off of a 3.0 ECU. Thanks.

 

whats up man.... i still havent bought a WB yet, but as far as i heard, my pressure right now is ok.... there's nothing wrong with it.

 

well this is your first tank after the swap right? any chance youve been testing out the new power at all? that makes a huge difference, im sure you know that

 

He speaks truff . I know I was whoring my car up and down for the first 2 tanks.... then crying about my milage when I would limp to the gas station, lol. Look, that in combination is running pig rich (up to 9:1s is pretty common with no tuning device, 8:1 isnt unrealistic eather, happened to Goalikeg). After those two first tanks, thats when I started to get used to the power, and started to drive "normal"

 

alright guys.... its been 400 miles on my new clutch and resurfaced flywheel, so i havent pushed my car at all, in fact, i dont even shift any higher than 3.5 rpm, highest 4 so im sure my gas mileage is not being affected from pedal to the metal haha.
im really breaking in my clutch well this time.

any other ideas?

 

Some things that come to mind that would affect MPG... Stuck/sticking brake calipers, lack of tune up, bad KS, engine codes, bad compression, and as BLKMAX said, your AFR could be out of whack.

 

daang....bad compression huh? i dont even want to hear about that after this engine swap....

 

huhmmm..... for some odd reason, i was expecting a little more than what i got on this swap...
I am able to have traction on 1st gear, but i hear that everyone has a hard time getting traction on first.... is there something wrong?

 

Have you checked for codes? What knock sensor are you using?

My car would roast them without a sweat in 1st.

 

maybe linked to the bad gas mileage, if youre running really rich it would surely hurt your power. a lot, bad 02's, knock sensor...

 

Even without a tune you should be able to lose traction through 1st and some 2nd. Definetely check codes if nothing, I would check into the health of that motor.

 

What exactly is your MPG? Miles/gallon please. As well as % city/highway driving.

What is the health status of said sensors? KS/O2? There could be a KS code (i.e. ghost code)

FYI, my first MEVI tanked went away w/ a measly 15.1 MPG. So, I guess, maybe give it one more tank.

We need data.

 

yea like they said, not having enough power to break loose 1st gear could easily be due to nasty rich + other codes. Are you easing into the gas or stumping it? Cus if I stump 1st anywhere, I'll spin out. Also if I launch normal and from like 2k rpm I ease into the gas towards 100%, right at 4k my tires break loose.

So eather way, you SHOULD have traction problems, unless you have some ubber sticky tires? I have Fuzion ZRi 235s

 

ok guys.... im running Nitto Neo Gen tires, they are not bad, along with my work 18's.
drive normal on 1st gear until i hit 3k rpm and after that i push pedal to the metal, and no traction loss.

i just pulled some codes. here's what i got.

1008 - EVAP canister purge volume control valve
1302 - MAP/BARO SW Solenoid/Valve
0205 - Idle Speed Control
0305 - EGR Temp Sensor
0803 - Absolute Pressure Sensor
0807 - EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
1005 - EGRC Solenoid valve

The one that stands out i guess is this one.....

0101 - Camshaft Position Sensor
(This one would only affect start up right? sometimes it cranks longer than expected before car turns on)
This is the one that sits on top of the timing chain cover correct?

-If TPS voltage does not read exactly at .4 can that be the problem?

 

TPS at idle should read .5V, and 4.1V at 100% throttle. And no that would afect drivability moreso than power (it will, but no where to the point of ur situation).

1008-blah

1302- thats ur Evap check valve junk thing. Its a green plug that goes to a green sesor thats supposed to be somwhere next to the KS harness. Hook it up and leave it dangling, lol Took care of that code like that on my car

0205- 0305- blah and blah

0803- Hmmm, is your "Boost Sensor" hooked up?

0807- 1005- blah and blah, lol

blah= irrelevant to the best of my knowledge as far as affecting power goes.

0101- swap it real quick with a friend's CAM sensor and see if anything happens. I think injector firing runs off of that sensor, and ignition works off the CPS. Maybe nismology can jump in that to confirm/ correct me

 

The 0101 can be caused by inconsistent cranking speed due to a dying starter and/or starter circuit. This will cause hard starts.

 

well i just realized that i have a huge leak coming from the hole where the egr pipe usually sits.
i plugged it up before, but the hole is back, so its a huge leak....
could this cause a power loss?

 

Or excessive metal shaving build up on the magnetic portion of the sensor. Being that you've just completed the swap, you might want to double check its position, remove it, wipe it off, reinstall, and see what that does. You never know, but it just might help.

 

I had my plug fall out and was followed by a large power loss. So that could be one of your larger problems.

Sounds like you need this part:

14052-21R00 - EGR plug for the rear exhaust manifold

 

what he said^,

or go to a muffler shop and just have them weld it shut with a plug of theirs. I dont know how easy of a task that would be for them to do it in the car. Just removing the intake I guess (have the shield out of the way already). I did it b4 the swap and I just brought them the manifold. $20, I was out of there within 5 mins

 

huhmmm..... i guess it could be that....
not to mention my flex pipe on my y-pipe is also leaking at the same time.
anyways...hopefully it wont be too much

i bought this thing at a local autozone yesterday to plug up the hole, its called thermosteel... looks really good, its made to repair cracks and such on headers of cars. It was rated to uphold heat up to 2400F.

 

Personally I would not use something that is applied and could possibly break loose and get sucked back into the motor, but that is just me. Weld it or use the bolt in my opinion.

 

This leak is actually on the headers, so i wouldn't have to worry about getting it sucked in.
It's actually holding very strong.....

Does anyone else know what could be the reason for me not to be getting the power im supposed to?
I think i might running a little to lean, but i have no idea why....

 

Lean is always a posibility with junkyard engines. If you have an 02 motor, it might have been sitting in a junkyard since that same year. The injector soleniods can seize and stop clicking for example, due to the fuel inside turning into varnish over time. There's been a few people that do the 00VI have this occur to them.

Honestly, if you dont have the wideband yet, I suggest go to a dyno and do 3 runs. I did that the weekend after my swap just to verify that everything was more or less where it should have been (HP, TQ, and a/f).

 

or get a WBO2 because you should tune that 3.5 sooner or later and a wideband will come in very handy

 

a member near where i live suggested that i get the safc so we can take a look and see whats going on.....
for my car to be running lean, do you guys think its a big problem or easy fix?
im really bummed to finish the swap to come almost the same power as my 3.0.
How many of you guys had this problem before?

 

Unless you know for sure, you can't make any assumptions as to what your AFR is. Technically, lean is > 14.7:1. I doubt you're that lean.

 

Well if he has the exhaust leaks that he has described it is possible he is leaning out.

 

Anything's possible at this point, and that is a good possibility, but again, we don't know exactly. Also, under WOT(where said power losses are), exhaust leak = not lean since feed back comes from CPS&MAF.