Im hoping someone can help me undertand this. Ive read all the stickys and searched but Im still lost on this and would like not to be lol

OK so when you swap a 3.5 in to a 4th gen, you need to use the 3.0 timing covers. You also need to use cam spacers to make the cam gears line up with everything correctley.

the things im lost on are:

are the cam spacers needed because the 3.5 cams place the cam gears too far back?

Which cam gears are used, the 3.0 or 3.5?

Drilled cams and dowels....why do some sticky/threads mention it, and some dont? Is the main purpose of it to play with cam timing or is it something else?
Does this only need to be done to stock 3.5 cams? What about aftermarket cams? Like these: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=522849

With the dowels, are they just being reused from what was on the cams?

Also I have see a couple posts about stephenmax or tilleys not getting back to people about cam spacers. Any one have dimensions so I can just make my own?

Hopefully these arent dumb questions. I get everything about the 3.5 swap except that stuff and if Im going to be doing it I want to understand why it had to be done rather than just eeking by it all.

 

The spacers are needed so that the 3.0 timing gears line up with the rest of the 3.0 timing stuff, ie crank gear, water pump.

You can use either spacers and drilled cams or a spacer that has the pins already on them.

Spacers/drilling is required regardless of the cams ie stock 3.5 or aftermarket.

The cam timing can be altered by drilling the holes off the stock location.

Remember its not just the 3.0 timing covers that are used, its the complete valve train and sensors so that the 4th Gen ECU thinks you still have the 3.0 in there.

 

thanks that did clear up a few things for me!!!

Im still wondering, I have read posts mentioning that certian aftermarket cams have holes already drilled in them for use in the 3.0 and 3.5. is the drilling something even further that would need to be done even if it had these 2 holes, or the other present hole is what would have actually been drilled?

Is there any specific threads or spots of info on drilling the cams?

 

Sorry can't help you there. I have bought 2 sets of aftermarket cams for the 3.5 and they were only designed for the 3.5 so would have to be drilled. I had the first set drilled but the second set are not because I did an ECU swap and used the full 3.5 timing stuff.

I haven't heard of any cams having both holes drilled but then I haven't been looking or reading that much either so thats quite possible. Maybe someone who knows will chime in.

 

So this is my question about drilling the new holes for the dowels:

Where are they placed in relation to the old ones? Looking at pictures it appears they are less than 180 degrees off, does anyone know the exact measurement, and how did you determine this?

 

From what I understand the holes are drilled in the new 3.5 cams in the same position as they are in the 3.0 cams.

 

Not as complicated as you may be making it to be. StephenMax got back to me and shipped quickly once my spacer/Adaptors made. You need to know where you want your power band.

Just pm him and order spacer's for your exhaust cams and adaptors retarded based on where you want your power and also think about future mods as well. For example I will be losing on my low end to gain the top end. But that is because I am planning on a 3.5 block swap.

 

Yes I don't think I would consider drilling or making my own spacers unless you are really versed in the subject. Luckily as TDotMax says StephenMax is available and you don't have to drill.

 

Tilley and Stephen max use two different methods:

-Tilleys drilled the cams (later made adapters) so that the lobe seperation angle would be the same as the the 3.0 cams.

-Stephen Max drilled/made the adapters so the intake cams are advanced exactly 15* from the fully retarded position so the intake valve ends up closing @ 49* ABDC, the same as the 95-99 VQ.

 

I have no problem with drilling my own 3.5 cams, I just don't know where to drill the hole in relation to the original. I have read many posts regarding this procedure, and I am still not certain. Forgive me for not knowing, but did anyone use a degree wheel or such to compare the opening points for the valves on each cam? I would think this is necessary to determine the placement of the new dowel hole. Just trying to learn from those with experience.

 

Hmmm, intresting

So if Im going to swap a 3.5 in and use the top speed cams / nismo copy cams I could just PM one of the guys and tell them what Im doing and now with the newer adapters theres no need to drill the cams?

Generally, like most aftermarket cams these cams will probably gain top, lose low? so should I even try to bother with the timing? Cause loosing a bit of low might be nice...

 

Yes they used a degree wheel. See my last post for the two methods currently being used.

 

Tilley did not use a degree wheel.

 

Well that's disappointing news.

 

Spacers/Adaptors are for 3.0's. If you are swapping a 3.5 you do not need them.

 

They are required if you are using the 3.0 valve train. If you are swapping the ECU as well then you are keeping the 3.5 valve train and they are not necessary.