wtf, I jumped timing right off the bat AGAIN!!! 10hr's worth of work, gone, out the window, poooof. still pulling only 16-17" vacuum at idle, and my scanner is still showing 5* advance at 750rpm's, and my car is still not where it should be.

And ya know why? I think I know why, I think it's because I'm a cheap ****, trying to get away with using gear off of 200k engines...... I can't WAIT until 8:00 am tommorrow. I'm going to be at my local dealer and short of the sprockets, I'm ordering EVERYTHING brand new. **** it, I don't care that it's probably gonna be $200, I'm ordering a new chain, all new guides/tensionor, and on top of that... I'm going to shim the ****ing spring so it's even tighter, and I'm gonna pop-start the ****ing car behind the tundra @ 50mph in 3rd gear. But before all that, I'm going to put a new trannsmission in my new '94 altima, and hook up the nos on that, and beat the snot out of it.

 

Stop being cheap !!!! Cant cheap out on things that take ALOT of time and Money to change. Why use guides and timeing equipment off of a motor with 200K miles on it. Doesnt make sense man

-matt

 

Yeah not to mention there's no way to not half-*** it in the car.... remove x-member/y-pipe/upper oil-pan, hahaha, no thanks. I was so damn **** with putting this thing together, I tourqed EVERYTHING to spec, I mean everything, alternator and PS, motor mount, timing cover bolts, you think I tourqed that stuff to spec this time? hell no. There was one point during the swap, right before I started installing all the stuff I just removed, that I ran out of anti-seize. I think I cursed myself when I said 'nah, I'm going to stop what I'm doing, drive 20 minutes, and get some more anti-sieze'

 

The tensioner is the only relevant item here. Old gears or guides have nothing to do with timing jumping. Either the tensioner was worn out, or it wasn't primed properly. I'm pretty sure even a brand new tensioner could allow the chain to jump timing at initial startup if it wasn't primed with oil beforehand.


Was ALL of the chain slack on the main tensioner side?

 

BTW, I can relate. Doing the timing with the engine still in the car only to have the same symptoms all over again are disheartening, to say the least.

 

wow. chill out.....everything will be all right. Listen to nismology. Just get the tensioner. I can't see how new sprockets can make it any better.

 

I thought I saw him mentioner gears, but guess not. I suppose if you're going to be going in there again, new chains/guides wouldn't hurt, but they have nothing to do with what happened.


Remember to prime the tensioner with as much oil as it will hold. The less time it spends bleeding air out the better.

 

I primed it the 1st time, and the 2nd time it had never been removed, and yes, all slack had been removed, and it had been turned over by hand a bunch of times, I even made sure I had fuel pressure built up for a quick start. I wish I could just stick a damn drill down my distributor shaft

 

That's weird... The 2 3.5 swaps I have done, all I did was crank the engine by hand a few times. I didn't prime the tensioners or anything. Never had a problem with timing jumping around.

 

Keep up on it man, it'll be worth it once you're burning tire!

DF

 

it is a huge pain in the **** to do the timing with the motor inside the car.

I agree with nismology, there isnt anything wrong with re-using old chains sprockets, you can inspect the chains for signs of wear or cracking. And given the trouble a lot of early 4gs get from the tensioner and/or guide, this is just the best time to replace them.

 

lol, I agree with him also, I was never planning on getting new sprockets.