I've just picked up a vafc2... and I have settings from a virtually identical vehicle. Can I just load his settings? I've been reading through GTR Rider and SR20's posts to get some more info.. so not all spoon fed

Heres my last dyno.. I can see I'm not lean anywhere does that mean I should be okay-ish? I have a consultz cable so I can look at my AFR. I figure if 13.0 is ideal for daily driver then I have quite abit of adjustment room?



HERES the Vafc2 values I will be using :
http://www.maximasdownunder.org/file...20Settings.pdf

 

notice that YOUR a/f is (from what i calculate 4k rpm) after 4k is pretty flat at 12.5:1. To go from there to 13.0 wont do much at all. Also him at 4k is below 12:1, so if YOU were to use HIS settings, you'd go very lean and potentially dangerous.

 

I wish people would stop asking this question. It's just not a smart thing to do. That's why we have cookie cutters.

 

christ all mighty, i only changed a few percents throughout the high "vtec" and that made quite a difference in AFR. Hey Nmex i gotta new file for ya. I think im pretty much good just need your approval

 

Hopefully don't regret it.. whats a cookie cutter standard template or something I can get somewhere?

Nooo one here(NZ) would have tuned a VQ30 so I'm just trying to get as much of a jump on it as I can so i'm not waiting on the tuner to muck around for ages figuring the basic settings out.

so I don't have much to work with then in terms of AF correction?

Am I safe to do this at least?

Thanks guys

 

You're going against the entire concept/advantage of an AFC. Tuning AFR on YOUR OWN.

Again, this is why you have ab AFC, to do your own tune (AFR). We all know these things run quite rich up top, but again, go to the dyno, tune your own set-up, no matter whose uncle has x mods similar to you. No one where I live has an AFC'd FWDVQ, so I ended up doing my own tuning, it's not hard at all. Run, correct w/re: to AFR data, repeat step until maximum power is achieved.



Only one way to find out.



Only one way to find out.

 

Not a fan of using other people's settings. DO THAT AT YOUR OWN RISK.

 

New mantra: I will not use other peoples tunes.

Can I use Nissan Datascan to log, do WOT runs, look at logs and adjust from there, do WOT runs with logging and adjust again?

Time RPM Air Flow O2 Throttle Injector Timing
5:04:07 p.m. 4438 2.69 46 1.14 4.04 39
5:04:07 p.m. 4500 2.69 49 1.14 3.86 40
5:04:07 p.m. 4562 2.69 53 1.14 3.77 40
5:04:07 p.m. 4638 2.68 56 1.14 3.67 39
A/F Base Duty Cycle A/F ratio
97 14.94 Lean
98 14.47 Rich
98 14.33 Rich
98 14.18 Rich


Is there a primer I could read on tuning? I'm defintely looking up all old afc threads.

Or is it that taking on the dyno is the only practical way..

 

Datascan will only show you the readout from your stock sensors, which are narrowbands and therefore useless for tuning. You will need to hook up a wideband O2 sensor (if you don't already have one).

If you're short on cash you can get away with street tuning instead of going to the dyno, at least w.r.t. AFR, since it's pretty well known that high 12's to 13.5 or so will produce lean best torque on these cars. If you're a couple tenths off on the AFR it really doesn't make a lot of difference. Not saying you shouldn't hit a dyno at some point but it's possible to tune pretty well on the street.

 

Consult cable for AFR = NO
Dyno or wideband is the only safe way to go.
Looking at you're last dyno graph you're AFR looks good for stock ECU, needs adjustment yes but how straight & flat across RPMs is surprising.

 

I wouldn't recommend using anyone's other settings on any sort of system to your own vehicle, it is best to tune the vehicle considering the motors are all different and thus why it's called tunning -

If you want to save yourself the pains and aches down the road of having people to repeat tunning with AFC as you put mods on the vehicle, invest in some sort of wideband - then I would target 13.1-13.3 for your afr's under full throttle - does an SAFC2 work better then the VAFC2 or is there some sort of cam timing change that you guys use the VAFC2 for vs the SAFC2?

 

4th item down
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=492413

 

I've learnt a bit so far about THAT other tune .. correct me if I'm wrong lol but refering to the dyno below he Wasted the first 3 correction points by making no corrections and if you look at the AFR is way to bumpy he should have used the 3 points to tidy that up around 3900-4800.

And the guys at my club who changed the NE points and noticed power difference, I wonder if there was any. Because if they had the same setup as this guy then changing ne points would make no difference due to the rpm range be same as hithrottle?

 

From the looks of it, he used a generic correction curve. Because why would he have points past 6400? Your car wont ever see that RPM on a stock ECU.

Also, the low points, 1000, 1600, and 2200 wont affect dyno #'s anyhow, and shouldn't looked upon as wasted.

Still doesn't seem as if you're using this thing like you should. I do not see 24 correction points.

 

Sorry think crossed wires here. Mines not actually installed yet(this weekend)

This is the OTHER guys tune I WAS going to use, NOW I can see why I shouldn't. I am now just starting to learn why its so wrong, like Rpm HiThrottle etc.

I'm going to have sooo many correction points as I'll only tune the 3000-6400 range as we should. I've read about how the ECU pretty much controls things below 3000(and will correct corrections.

Does our car go to its WOT map when Throttle is over 40% at 3000rpm? Or does that refer to something else?

 

Op paper, yes. (Paper = FSM). But there have been a few members that have seen different situations dependent on load.

But as far as your application is concerned, corrections from 3000RPM+ should be just fine.