Bought a VQ30DEK for a 95, befor I get started . .
Bought a VQ30DEK for a 95, befor I get started . .
Ok so I picked up a vq30dek non cali w/ 150k cheap.
I have done some engine work before, on a ford 5.0, but I have never worked on a VQ before
Whats good/common for theseVQ motors? Bigger pistons? Head work? Where from? I think I remember reading something about someone putting VQ35 pistons in a boared out 3.0 would that work with the crank?
What should I replace on a motor with 150k on it?
Replace injectors or just flush them? Coils? Timing chain?
Just looking for some insight on these motors from people with more experience then I what do you all recommend?
THX !
I have done some engine work before, on a ford 5.0, but I have never worked on a VQ before
Whats good/common for theseVQ motors? Bigger pistons? Head work? Where from? I think I remember reading something about someone putting VQ35 pistons in a boared out 3.0 would that work with the crank?
What should I replace on a motor with 150k on it?
Replace injectors or just flush them? Coils? Timing chain?
Just looking for some insight on these motors from people with more experience then I what do you all recommend?
THX !
Man I hate to hurt your feeling but 150 on a dek is alot. I got mine less than a year ago with about 32,000 on it.
And on the pistons it would be a waste of time. YOu can pick up low milage vq35 motors for about $600 if you look around.
And on the pistons it would be a waste of time. YOu can pick up low milage vq35 motors for about $600 if you look around.
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
Ok so I picked up a vq30dek non cali w/ 150k cheap.
I have done some engine work before, on a ford 5.0, but I have never worked on a VQ before
Whats good/common for theseVQ motors? Bigger pistons? Head work? Where from? I think I remember reading something about someone putting VQ35 pistons in a boared out 3.0 would that work with the crank?
What should I replace on a motor with 150k on it?
Replace injectors or just flush them? Coils? Timing chain?
Just looking for some insight on these motors from people with more experience then I what do you all recommend?
THX !
I have done some engine work before, on a ford 5.0, but I have never worked on a VQ before
Whats good/common for theseVQ motors? Bigger pistons? Head work? Where from? I think I remember reading something about someone putting VQ35 pistons in a boared out 3.0 would that work with the crank?
What should I replace on a motor with 150k on it?
Replace injectors or just flush them? Coils? Timing chain?
Just looking for some insight on these motors from people with more experience then I what do you all recommend?
THX !
OK well I am an engendering student and I wanted the experience of rebuilding an engine (thought about the VQ35 but I am not that big into power + I wanted to keep my auto with Florida traffic)
As for power any increase would be nice but I think the 4spd is going have trouble past 240-250whp ya know?
I just opened this thread to get some options here
Looking to spend around 1k but ill prob go over
Thank you for your advice!
As for power any increase would be nice but I think the 4spd is going have trouble past 240-250whp ya know?
I just opened this thread to get some options here
Looking to spend around 1k but ill prob go over
Thank you for your advice!
OK well I am an engendering student and I wanted the experience of rebuilding an engine (thought about the VQ35 but I am not that big into power + I wanted to keep my auto with Florida traffic)
I see alot of engine rebuild kits offer oversized pistons from 93.0mm to 94.0mm (from 2.987L to3.0521L) has anyone done these, what are the tuneing ramifications and power results ?
Seems as if you're not that much into power, you can do just fine with a straight swap. Tuning alone can get you some good power, if done correctly, without having to go inside the engine.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Not that big into power? Explain why you can't keep your auto re:engine swap.
From a logical standpoint why look into different sized pistons? If you want more displacement, get a 3.5L.
Seems as if you're not that much into power, you can do just fine with a straight swap. Tuning alone can get you some good power, if done correctly, without having to go inside the engine.
From a logical standpoint why look into different sized pistons? If you want more displacement, get a 3.5L.
Seems as if you're not that much into power, you can do just fine with a straight swap. Tuning alone can get you some good power, if done correctly, without having to go inside the engine.
So I just wanted to ask you guy why not is there a known problem with doing that? Any ramifications?
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
kind of like a why not?
That's why...
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
(from 2.987L to3.0521L)
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
So I just wanted to ask you guy why not is there a known problem with doing that? Any ramifications?
I sent them some emails asking for details such as that and what was included with “timing belt” . . . id be more confident if it said was a chain ya know? . . . im sure they will claim OEM Quality tho
am I forgetting anything ?
pistons
piston rings
rod bearings
main bearings
timing chain . . . .mabye
complete overhaul gasket set
oil pump
freeze plugs . . . comes with the kit but should I bother?
Injectors (or a good flush mabye)
Coils . . .mabye
plugs. . . duh
am I forgetting anything ?
pistons
piston rings
rod bearings
main bearings
timing chain . . . .mabye
complete overhaul gasket set
oil pump
freeze plugs . . . comes with the kit but should I bother?
Injectors (or a good flush mabye)
Coils . . .mabye
plugs. . . duh
I'm wondering how they're gonna know which size/grade rod and main bearings to send you.
But to answer your question, you have most of it there on your list. I'd probably replace the timing chain tensioner and main guide along with the water pump as well though.
But to answer your question, you have most of it there on your list. I'd probably replace the timing chain tensioner and main guide along with the water pump as well though.
Change the timing chain tensioners and the water pump. All of the gaskets that are far easier to do with the engine out of the car like the front and rear main seal, timing chain cover, valve cover, etc. I would not bother with the head gasket or any machining. Not worth it IMO unless you are going very big with an engine build not a general overhaul.
Honestly if your current engine isn't giving you problems and still has good compression, then I would just swap the intake manifold and the related from the DEK and keep the engine for later.
Honestly if your current engine isn't giving you problems and still has good compression, then I would just swap the intake manifold and the related from the DEK and keep the engine for later.
Originally Posted by RedfoxXx
OK well I am an engendering student and I wanted the experience of rebuilding an engine (thought about the VQ35 but I am not that big into power + I wanted to keep my auto with Florida traffic)
Originally Posted by Curt
Not to rain on your parade, but expect (1) things to go wrong, and (2) that things will take much longer than you expect. That way you won't be surprised when they do.
hey one last thing when hoisting the engine where are the best points to do so on the VQ?
Good call on Ace they were Super helpful! Hey I noticed on the timing chain cover someone wrote 00 Maxima 61539 I am wondering if this might be the true mileage of the motor. You know how the junkyards are with records and inventories
The oil looks good in the motor and so dose the timing chain but is there any definitive way to get a feel for how used this bad boy is? I will post a few pics later
The oil looks good in the motor and so dose the timing chain but is there any definitive way to get a feel for how used this bad boy is? I will post a few pics later
Removing the valve cover and having a look-see is always a good place to start. A leak-down test would be another good thing since the motor doesn't have to have a starter turning it over to perform it.
ok me and some buddies tore the motor down to the block and heads today, no engine sludge and the timing chain look like it is in VERRY good shape, going to give the parts a complete check over tomorrow is there anything particular I should be looking for?
Also what kind of tool should I get to remove the heads, it looks lie ka BIG hex bolt, do they sell them at AutoZone/advanced?
Also what kind of tool should I get to remove the heads, it looks lie ka BIG hex bolt, do they sell them at AutoZone/advanced?
Originally Posted by nismology
My autozone hex socket worked just fine. 
The size is M10 in case you haven't purchased it yet.

The size is M10 in case you haven't purchased it yet.
Originally Posted by nismology
External TORX socket. Not quite sure on the size though. I think it's E10 but I'll check tomorrow when I get a chance just to be sure.
I'd stay away from that rpm machine rebuild kit. I used one of those last year on my 3.0, It was one of the only rebuild kits i could find that was not retardedly expensive. The rings they sent me were absolute garbage, but theres always the chance I installed them wrong, it could of been a lot of things. But those rings would not seal whatsoever. Check out rockauto.com they got a lot of stuff there for decent prices
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MaximaDrvr
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
16
Aug 19, 2015 08:20 PM
doobadoo
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
2
Aug 15, 2015 06:43 PM




