I noticed these two choices of cams on SleazeBay for the 3.5. Opinions?

Are they likely to be worth the trouble ??? Prices don't seem too bad....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7786&rd=1&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4072&rd=1&rd=1

I spent the afternoon harvesting 3.0 timing cases and stuff. Gotta get back on the strip.
.

 

I have them, haven't installed them yet, but they say over 100 people have bought these on various Z/G and Maxima forums, so they can't be bad quality can they? Same specs as the Nismo cams from what I understand.

 

Which ones? Nismo knock offs?


The 1st link(Nismo) seems strange. It gives a data sheet, but in the paragraph, mentions different specs than what's in the datasheet.

 

yeah the Nismo knock-offs. The ones in the first link

 

The people selling the Nismo knock-offs erroneously think that the Nismo R-tune cams share identical specs with the JWT S1's. They are different indeed.

 

What are the specs?

Indeed. I was trying to make this point indirectly/making it come out on it's own with a little persuading to see the light.

 

Nismo R-tune = 262/262 @ 10.8mm lift
JWT S1 = 260/260 @ 10.9mm lift

The S1's are generally regarded as the more aggressive of the two. Probably due to steeper ramp angles.

 

of the ones I got? lol well the link says 262 and 10.8, the rates that Nismology just shared.

 

I am pretty sure the Nismo R-Tune cams are NOT symmetrical.

 

Then.................?

 

whats that mean?......

 

Staggered, as in either duration or lift is different between the intake and exhaust cams.

 

The link lists 2 different specs, that was my point.

 

I think he meant the lobes are not symmetrical.. ie different opening and closing ramps.

Grey: bang for the buck I'd probably go Nismo or S1 clones first, then maybe BC. All of those are still relatively mild, but will increase your top end decently. If you don't care about the $$ then there are lots of other choices as well. If you are using the 3.0 sensors and timing equipment for the 3.5 swap though you'll need to think about how the cams should be timed, since you won't have VTC's.

 

Yea usually asymmetry refers to the lobe profiles but I figured he was referring to the cam specs that I posted since we hadn't really gotten into ramp rates.

 

I mean the exhaust lobes do not have the same lift and duration as the intake cams. And I do not have those specs, otherwise I would have posted them already.

 

Gotcha. Was getting ahead.. lol. Also I kinda missed the post in which you listed the specs - incorrectly, I think...

IIRC the lift on the Nismo R's is supposed to be the same on both sides, at .426" (10.8 mm) but the duration isn't - 262 on the intake and 256 on the exhaust.

 

Okay...so what do you want me to say? Rather, what's your UNDERLYING point? That we don't know their exact specs?

 

Thanks..

My plan for the 3.5 at this moment is to:

1. Replace rod bolts with ARP bolts.
2. Install more aggressive cams.
3. Modify the intake manifold.
4. Adapt my '01 Pathy TB for that manifold.
5. Use 3.0 timing equipment and stock '99 ECU.
6. Use Stephen Max's cam adapters.

I'm going to use the rest of my 3.0 add-ons, including nitrous later on, so I don't plan on taking this 3.5 to any NA records... Nitrous is different.

Taking my first 3.0 apart was good practice - that's a really stout cradle for the crank - and when I finish pulling off the heads, I'll photograph any damage I find. This one melted valves, at least.

The next one has 37K on the motor, so I'll strip it and use this pile of timing parts for the 3.5. Gaskets are here now.

It sounds like people are more confident in the second set of cams I listed. Is this right?

 

It's more like 10.2 on the ex. lift. I'll post the actual #s when I get them.

 

Ok cool will await your measurements. I was just going by advertised #'s I've seen.

 

I've torn down two 3.0 engines now - one for practice, one low-mileage motor for the timing parts. Today I put the 3.5 on the stand and popped both oil pans and pulled the front cover - and all plugs looked great.


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2238.jpg

I finally noticed the difference in timing chains between the 3.0 and 3.5 motors.

3.5:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2234.jpg

3.0:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2208.jpg

Guess this means I'll have to put the 3.0 water pump in the 3.5 ??

It's about time to decide what to do about cams.... and I'll decide that one on my own.

These two tools make life easier when working on these engines: Ryobi impact driver and 25" 1/2"-drive Harmless-Freight breaker bar.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...d/Dscn2176.jpg

 

Haha Grey, almost looks like my garage... I've got 2 fully torn down 3.0's in pieces on wood dollies (well except the short block on my DEK is still intact, everything else is pretty much apart).

BTW, wish I could slap the stupid-a** grease monkey who torqued my DEK secondary sprockets to >>500 ft lbs (only supposed to be 119-128).

 

Heck, I've still got the 5-cylinder 3.0 in my car to add to the junkpile! It has a nice hole in the crown of #4. Still starts and kinds runs, though.....

A longer breaker bar will take off those nuts, eh? With that bar, I was able to easily take off the crank pulley from a 3.0 and the 3.5 - plus the pulleys came off with a little gentle tapping! Weird - no puller required.

 

Another upgrade question.

I'm thinking about upgrading pistons/rods in my 2002 engine, but don't know if the 350Z pistons and rods will fit with no clearance problems.

I can get a used set for a reasonable price. Will these work?

 

A used set of OEM pistons and rods or aftermarket? If OEM, there's no real advantage. In any case, anything rods or pistons that will work in a Z33 motor will work in a FWD VQ.

 

OK, thanks - I'm talking OEM -so there is no difference in OEM pistons or rods for the VQ35 series? Probably excepting the Rev-up 350Zs, maybe?

I thought that if I'm pulling heads for new 350Z gaskets, then a light rebore on my 60K mileage block and new rings can't hurt. Neither would lo-mileage pistons and rods. And JDM cams.....

 

Not even the revup rods are different. The only reason they have a different part number is because they are paired with slightly stronger rod bolts in the revup motor (which are included when you buy an OEM rod).

If you bore out the cylinders any appriciable amount you'd have to go overbore on the pistons. A light hone would be more appropriate in case the cylinder walls have glazed over and there was no crosshatch pattern left. But I honestly doubt that's the case with a 60k block and unnecessary cylinder machining/finishing can do more harm than good. That's a young motor. I'd just re-ring it and call it a day. One man's opinion....

 

So if the block is tight, then why bother? Just the cams, then..... and ARP rod bolts to hold it together. I think I'll also take my chances with the head gaskets. Thanks...

 

I would STRONGLY recommend changing those headgaskets, given the sorts of use you will be putting it through. At least the OEM Z33 headgaskets. They are triple-layer, instead of double-layer like those of the FWD 3.5s. Of course if you change them, get new OEM head bolts.

With all the work and money you're putting into motor, you might as well

 

Just in case you misunderstood, there's nothing wrong with re-ringing the motor. Since the heads are coming off anyway and you're replacing the rod bolts with ARP's the labor overlaps 100%. I'd do it.

 

are there any cams more agressive then those two?

 

Nope, I understood what you were saying. I'm trying to talk myself out of replacing the head gaskets, is all....

The original plugs are clean - no oil evidence on them, and when the engine is turned with a breaker bar on the crank nut, each compression stroke is felt. It's hard to get by each one, so I think the engine is tight. The heads are clean under the valve covers - no gunk in the corners. I've got the outer timing cover off, and that space is clean as well.

There was engine oil in the intake manifold when I took it off - like most VQs I've seen - but that is probably blow-by pumped back in the intake manifold. Exhaust ports are clean - no evidence of burned oil.

I'm thinking JDM cams, 3.0 lower oil pan, the usual 3.0 timing parts replacement, I have Stephen's cam adapters on order, redesigned OBX headers are in the car, and a Pathy TB is here, so I guess I have a plan.

 

Yes. But you'd better have an extended red line, and breathing mods to make power up there, because you're going to lose a ton of mid/low without VTC's and idling could be tricky.

 

yeah thats what i figured, coming from a muscle car background i always wondered why i never see lopy idling maximas at meets....

 

Yeah b/c 99% of Maximas don't have upgraded cams of ANY sort... lol

Edit: now WITH VTC's then different story from what I said above of course

 

Since the g35 350Z maxima are all VQ35DE's ... looking at these cams, could you do a search for 350z internal parts such as these cams and pistons, crap like that and slap em on a max?? not quite sure o nthat thats why i ask.

Also these cams... 2 options, how much better than stock are they?

 

A question for those ORGers that have installed cams in 3.5's, where have you bought valve lifters when you needed them? And what cams did you install?

As I understand it, when new cams are mounted, you gotta check valve lash for each lobe, then check against the cam's specs for lash ( .011-.013 ) then determine which length of lifter you need to replace it with, if one is outside of specs...

How likely is it that you will need to replace the original lifters with new? I have found the 3.5 lifters for around $14 each (plus shipping) but the idea of buying 24 of them isn't very interesting....

I did find a great set of feeler gauges at Sears that have extended blades with a 45-degree bend in each blade and .001 difference in thickness.

 

Haven't heard of buckets having to be replaced with most aftermarket cams for the VQ including the JWT S1's and Nismo R-tunes (and their respective knock-off versions). Come to think of it, only tomei cams have had incidents of improper valve clearance.


I highly doubt that any of the people here that have installed cams bothered to check valve clearances so you're already ahead of the game.

 

I guess that's good news, then. If replacement cams are so precisely built, then I won't have too much excitement.

After dissecting a couple of 3.0s and doing surgery on my 3.5, I am very impressed with how the VQ is built. Compared to older 'Merican V8s, the VQ is built like a fine watch. I'm looking for a couple of Snap-On digital torque wrenches now, so I can meet factory torque settings. And track the extra angle pulls you may need to do. Now I feel really bad about melting out exhaust valves and pistons on my 3.0s - but maybe I can fix these in the future.

Thanks for the feedback - I haven't done cams since the 70s in V8s and motorcycle engines...

I really need to set up a test stand where I can start and run engines. I have a complete wiring harness for the 3.5 - and 3.0 -, but I'll need an ECU and NATS working pair and something for a bell housing to mount a starter. The rest I can do. Maybe an old 3.0 automatic tranny, suitably gutted?