So ive read the thread about this and its pretty lacking on info. so i got some questions. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=366199

#1 since i do not plan on upgrading the cams or anything else. do i still need to drill the pin hole in the cam gear?

#2 according to japmaxSE he had to shave off a piece on the rear main seal. since i am an auto will i need to do this as well? (anyone with a 3.5 swap/5spd can probaly answer this best)

#3 will i still be able to use a 3.0 flywheel or will i need to get a 3.5? i plan on staying a 5 spd not going the 6pd route. and can i use a udp from the 3.0 or will i need a 3.5?

#4 i am assuming that tuning will be needed so would the vafc-II be the most cost effectine unit to use?

#5 If i decide to go with headers will i need 3.5 or 3.0, and will there be any issues with o2 sensors (such as connector fitiment.)

#6 how much fun will i have with this car?

i think thats it. thanks for the help.

 

You plan on using 3.0 heads?

 

yes. i want to keep my mevi

 

Everything that applies to the "full" 3.5 swap applies to the 3.0/3.5 hybrid with the exclusion of everything from the heads up. This info is covered in the stickies but I'll bite:

1. You either need to have the cam drilled to reposition the dowel or get an adapter that brings the cam into proper alignment with the cam gear. Either is acceptable, though the latter is generally regarded as the simpler/better option since you don't have to send the cams out.

2. Don't know why in the world you'd need to do that. 3.0 and 3.5 RMS's have the same part number.

3. 3.0 flywheel.

4. The V-AFCII is fine but i'd opt for an e-manage blue or ultimate, personally.

5. Either will work, though I doubt you'll be able to find a set of hotshots since they're out of production.

6. The swap won't transform your car into a vette-killer but it will be significantly faster than it is currently assuming everything is installed and working properly.

 

thanks. so i will need spacers/adapters. thanks for the response. anything else i should know?

 

Damn I sounded like such a noob back then. Now that very same motor ( a true 3.5DE and built bottom) has an APS TT KIT sitting next to it waiting for it's new home.

About the RMS I was actually referring to the Crankshaft end with 8 bolts. Which the Drive plate (AT) / Flywheel (MT) bolts up to. There's an align pin on the Crank end that just didn't match up to my 96Auto's drive plate so I just shaved it off.

Have fun & good luck.

 

Why not go for the full swap? I would love to see this build, work meet perhaps?

 

Terry, You know you wont end up doing this swap.

I would love to see you prove me wrong though. Here is some good info I've found
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthread.php?t=19270

 

thanks pumpkin for beliveing in me. but my situations may be changins soon as to where i may be able to do this.

3.5 would be nice. but i just dont want it. i know that may be blasphmene to some people on this board but i dont care. when i get everything together ill have a meet and your more than welcome to come up. right now this is the information gathering phase. i have 2 maximas one over 220k and one at 190k. i plan on keeping them both and maybe one will be a full 3.5 and one a hybrid.

 

glad you popped up.

 

Oh snap!!! Japmax is showing signs of life! Hit me up homie.

And D-Bo.... for your Avatar FTW!!!!!!!!!!!

oh yea, back on topic... I'll have to second what nismology said about using an Emanage instead of an AFC. Mine works fine, but to really get the good juice out of the motor, Emange ULTIMATE is the way to go. A/F tuning can only yield so much power for us, a bigger chunk of it can be unlocked if you can bump the h311 out of the ignition timing (EU, not EB).

 

is the e-manage more useful on the 3.5? cause thats not what i am doing.

 

emanage is better than a safc no matter what engine. ill sell you my safc2 though if you want since i am going emanage ultimate soon.

but yea why not go with a full 3.5 swap?

 

Seems as if we have a pattern here. 3.0/3.5L, it doesn't matter, EU/EB is just better all around when compared to SAFC/VAFC. I will also cast my vote for a VQ35 swap whether it be full or not. Where full is referred to as compelte software package included.

 

In the case of keeping cost down, VAFC would be fine. Isn't E-Manage quite a bit more $$$?
And if you really wanted to maximize the potential of the VQ35DE, you'd do a full swap. After researching the 3.5/3.0 swaps, most everyone made significantly less WHP than even stock 5.5 Gens.

Trying to get a newer, larger displacement motor for cheap, go VAFC.

Trying to maximize the potential of the VQ35DE, do a full swap (ECU, CAN, DBW)THEN tune that.

 

And remember green = antifreeze.

Terry. You are nuts for trying this. You know of the wiring hassles right?

 

isn't a 3.5 block swap a lot cheaper then a full swap?

 

Most definitely.

 

What exactly do you mean by this?

A 'full block' (hardware/mechanically) is used in both swaps, whether it be using 3.0 heads or not.

Also, as I mentioned before, the full swap, typically around here, is only referring to using full ECU software 'package'. If that's what you meant, then I suppose it could be cheaper, but IMO, the you'd spend more time than money (vs the basic VQ35 swap) when going 'full' swap.

I'm going to disagree with you here. The swaps (less software) that have dynod showed strong numbers. The area under the curve did show something to be desired, but even then, we don't have many comparisons to go off of, so the term significantly shouldn't be used so loosely as it may give a false perspective.

Again, this is just my humble opinion.

 

what wireing? would'nt it be all mechanics no electronics? i thought green was go-go juice!!

So you think that this would be a worthless project to undertake? or that i would be dissapointed in the end?

cause i dont want to. i dont need to impress anyone, plus i dont street race or even track the car. ive tracked the car once since ive had it and dynoed once as well. (very depressing i might add)

 

Direct Anti-freeze injection FTW!

 

I don't recall ever stating either of those items.

 

no, i was just asking in general, cant type with tone.

 

worked for 2 days

 

Let's not go reinventing the wheel.

What exactly do you want out of this swap?

 

I'm confused. Are you going to do a swap or not?

 

the same thing everyone else wants with their car, better performance hell i remember when this option first came out then the 3.5 came out but i could never find much info on the hybrid good or bad. but i knew that i did not want to do the 3.5 cause this option would allow me to keep my mevi on my car. no one is trying to reinvent the wheel. im trying to gather information on a subject that previously was schetchy at best.

 

Kind of OT, but the amount of time spent converting a 3.5 to run on a A32 ECU, the time to swap heads (if you so choose) can be very time consuming also. I actually started my 3.5 swap as a 3.5/A32 ECU swap, and after figuring out how much work, time and money (not many parts can be salvaged from a 203K miles VQ30, I needed some new items that are VQ30 specific) I decided the more worth while route is the "full" swap, ECU and all. Well, I guess it matters little unless you can get your hands on a complete 3.5 donor car. I got lucky, I have everything from one source for one price, except my DBW pedal.

As for power of 3.5/A32 ECU compared to full VQ35DE swap, that "power under the curve" makes a huge difference in performance. And even then, I didn't see anyone with a basic 3.5/A32 swap making "alot" of peak HP.

 

what up nikkuhhh!

 

MY car the 5 spd will be the hybrid. the wifes car if she wants it done will be a 3.5 but if she dont ill put another 3.0 in when hers croaks out. I dont want a 3.5 in my car.

 

Pretty much what I meant. Yes, more money, but significantly more time.

I agree, power under the curve is a great thing, and should not be overlooked, couple that with a ligher chassis and we have what you stated in one of your earlier posts.

I agree, and this seems to be the mood of the entire post/thread.


Also, peak 5MT numbers of the typical A32 software swap seem to be in the 220-230's with typical BO's (I/Y/E). about the same/in line w/ I/Y A33B's.

IMO, that's respectable and can be better with some AFR conditioning and true headers.

 

excuse my lack of knowledge but you mean the FULL 3.5 swap, ecu and all?

 

1. No

2. Not the rear main, but a pin in the crank? Not sure if the MT VQ35 has that pin. I have a AT VQ35 so I only know that one has a pin you'd need to grind.

3. I dunno

4. Yes, keep it cheap. A VAFC can tune your car a bit AND actuate your MEVI.

5. You'll need 3.0 headers. Actually, the stock 3.0 stuff isn't too bad, the 3.5 will breathe easier on the 3.0 exh manifolds than it would on the original catted manifolds.

I like the idea of 3.0 heads on a 3.5 block. I dislike taking the 3.5 heads, disabling the VTC and having to piece part the motor. Sounds like your car would be fun to drive, and hopefully more than 128 WHP!

 

Yes, full swap is what a I meant, and typically, around here that is what it's referred to as. But, I never mentioned full swap in the post you quoted me in, so Also, nismology has covered this in his 1st 3 posts of this thread.

 

I don't understand why you are trying to keep your MEVI anyway. I think it was Krismax who discovered that the 3.5 SSIM flows better than 00VI. We all know 00VI flows better than MEVI. We also know that 3.5 heads flow better than 3.0 heads. You are losing every battle here dude.

 

Like I said earlier, aftermarket headers for the VQ35 (i.e. Hotshot) can be used. They're just not in production anymore so a set might be hard to find.

 

I am under the impression that 3.5's have pre-cats. If Hotshot made them w/o precats, I don't know. Don't care either since they are all interchangeable one way or the other, and since his car is going to remain A32 ECU he may as well stick with A32/3.0 headers. Keep it simple. Another point I was trying to make is that just running the stock 3.0 exh manifolds is an improvement over the original 3.5 manifolds.

 

HS/Cattman headers eliminate the pre cats as well as provide as near equal length runners as physically possible in a FWD configuration. This is why they make such drastic gains on the A33B.

Electronics (i,e A32/33 ECU) will not matter and should not be an excuse/justification to keep the stock VQ30 headers. Yes they flow better than VQ35 units, but the fact still remains that we all motor fans agree that equal length harmonics are worth every penny. That and headers, especially in this swap, shouldn't be skimped out on.

 

made in china has the right idea with stock 3.0 Manifolds better than stock 3.5 manifolds due to the relocation of the pre-cats. Therefore for the budgeted swapper, a simple y-pipe performs the NEARLY (not exactly) the same benefits.

 

Blackwind is trying to do his mods on a budget. I too would like a full-on exhaust system, but for now I am quite happy that my VQ35DE, which makes 255HP stock, will be flowing thru VQ30 manifolds and a Warpspeed Y pipe. I ran out of money for the full exhaust, but the fact that the VQ30 manifolds are larger in diameter, smoother (relative term) than the VQ35 units makes me happy. Hey, they gotta be worth some gains, right? And they are free.