Drove it today for the first time. The power is very good. When I was cruising from a stop the AT was in 1st and before it shifted to second I pressed the gas about half way down and it started loosing traction. So I decided to floor it at 30MPH and it'll downshift and loose traction from a 30 mph roll! This is in a car that wouldn't even chirp off the line before and the car has very healthy Michelin's (stock specs on 16" wheels). pretty powerful!

 

nice work, glad to see you went for the full swap. now take care of that gauge cluster and take some more pics for us. then maybe a track vid?

 

I'd like to dyno it and run some 1/4's in it. I just need to find the places around here to do it.

 

can you post pics of the shifter assembly?

 

Stock A32 shifter.

 

A pic of underhood connections:

The three red wires are fused supplies for:
BAT (10A) for NATS and EL cluster. The A32 in '97 doesn't have a BAT supply for the analog cluster, and since I was making the last of my connections underhood, I figured get the power for those at the fusebox instead of under the dash. BAT is available under the dash also, if you prefer.
ECM relay #2 pole. The A32 uses a SPST relay and the A33 uses SPDT, so this second fuse at 15A provides power for that second pole which powers everything else per FSM.
DBW (eGas) relay power source, power for the DBW VMOT.

The power is tapped off of existing male 0.250 spades in the underhood fuse box.

You can also see my Delphi Automotive connector that carries the signals/power that was originally run thru 2 8 pin connections. I chose to utilize one 16 pin Delphi GT150 connector to simplify my swap.

The signals are:

IGN SW 30A
SSOFF
RFRH
RFRL
BATT 10A
HO2S power
VB from ECU relay
Start/On 30A
IGN SW 30A
(unkown)
PNP Relay
ACRLY
ECU Relay Pole 2 load
DBW Load to VMOT
DBW Coil
Start/On 30A

 

If u had only posted these things a mth before i would've attempted the electrical s myself.

good job man. by the way did u have to do anything with yur smart entrance??? on mine he not getin the security light to come on, and he said it wired properly.

 

*presses easy button*

damn that didnt take you half as long as i thought it would. congrats on the install and get some videos up man. glad to see its done.

mark 1 more to the list.

 

you know your electrical. Good work. Great to hear that more people are doing the full swap with wiring.

 

great job if you have anything writting down from the electrical needed plz share will greatly appreciate it

 

So, how's your full monty swap is 'decidedly different' from other full monty swaps?

 

Man this is key, after driving a 6mt '02 back to back the difference of vtc is amazing and I'm very grateful of all you've shared so far as I plan to upgrade to the full monty in the distant future, doing it otherwise is silly nowadays.

Allthough not auto I would really like info on that aspect of this as well, you said you haven't driven it yet but what is your plan for the tcm? Same as everything else basically, just power to the 5.5 tcm and than wiring to/from per fsm?

Again, thank you.

 

Decidedly different because I used Delphi conectors to re-arrange the connections for my own sake, and also because I may possibly be the first guy to do a A33B AT full swap also. There will be a 2nd soon, I am helping a fellow member get his complete I35 swap w/AT going, he's almost done too.

 

I drive the car all the time. Fortunately, the AT and TCM harness is 90% integrated into the engine harness of an AT car. I just needed to splice in a few things like VSS, drop resistor, reverse light and such. But, a swap w/o the AT into a MT car would probably be 40% easier because there is less wiring overall.

 

Man I hear you. The way my AT car pulls makes me think there is no way a 3.0/3.5 swap would be as strong. I may be wrong, don't anyone flame me because this is my thread! But, I can really feel the VTC and VIAS action kick in, there is two very noticeable surges of power somewhere around 3800-4000 rpm's (guessing) and the car goes from being "much better than the VQ30DE" to "wow this car is pretty darn fast" to "holy crap!". Anyways, I did the full swap to keep the car as "stock" as Nissan intended the newer cars to be. I didn't want cam spacers, VAFC, adapters, etc. I wanted a car that started off in "stock" form and would still haul booty.

 

 

damn, this is getting sweeter every update!!, more pics and perhaps videos please!

 

sweet, that looks really clean. i love it

 

i have to agree 1000000000% with my man here. i was thinking of the 3.0/3.5 hybrid swap because i did not want the 3.5 but after riding in this car my hands would not stop shaking for about 10 min. after he turned it off. Big prop's to made-in-china for putting this together. plus with the interior swap too. this is one good looking maxima.

 

Hey if it's me yur referring to thanks...

went to check up on my car yesterday and more problems again. he got a scanner on it and it showing codes for CAN circuit, TCS circuit, EVAP system, ASCD switch among the other problems i having. Now i not sure if he don't know what he doing but did u have to deal with CAN as well, and if so what u did???

The ABS unit from the I35 has different mounting points to the ABS for my car. Also my cefiro did not come with CAN from the firm. The CAN is for the ECM,TCM, ABS/TCS. nothing else.


I'm just about ready to take back the car and get someone else to complete it.

 

Well, you will always get a CAN error unless you have all CAN devices talking. CAN error is non DTC? I forget, my car will show CAN not talking to ABS system.
ASCD, your tech will need to get the ASCD switch installed if you'd like this code to go away. And the brake switch for ASCD needs to be connected too.
TCS is another CAN attachment, and unless you swap in that, you'll continue to get a CAN failure. I also do not have TCS installed. Again, I don't think CAN errors to attached items are DTC. Correct me if I am wrong.
EVAP-well I connected all my EVAP stuff. It's part of the body harness on the A32, fortunately A32 and A33 have the same EVAP system. I have not pulled my codes yet, but I am pretty sure I won't have an EVAP code.

My car likely has these codes: PSP, CAN, O2 sensors (secondary) ASCD and brake switch. I will need to accept the CAN codes. I will hook up my #3 and 4 O2 sensors soon as I plan on welding in a second pair of O2 bungs to my Y pipe. ASCD and brake switch will be fixed soon

Hey, why is your guy taking so long? I have had to balance a full time job, long commutes, broken/missing parts, working in a small garage and a pregnant near term wife and I still managed to beat your guy! Maybe you should tell him about how slow he is.

 

Wow, this is great. I'm also interested if there is going to be a write-up as well.

 

CAN communication errors will generate DTC U1000 and U1001. You will get a MIL for U1000.


Your sig says you are running VQ30 manifolds. Your downstream sensors, if placed in the y-pipe, will generate DTC cat efficiency errors. When I did my swap, I simulated one sensor and installed the other downstream of the main cat so I am still monitoring its efficiency.

 

Thanks for the heads-up. I may just disconnect the MIL wire to the cluster, reduce all my codes to those I can't control (like CAN, etc) and just occasionally monitor my DTC's.

However, do you know the exact reason why the downstream O2 sensors would throw a code? I know they are there to confirm operation of the pre-cats, but seeing as how most O2 sensors monitor stoich ratio I am just curious as to why the pre-cats would create a condition that alters stoich, and why the ECU would even care if the downstream O2's look similar as the upstreams??
Maybe the rate at which the radical change near stoich occurs is slower after precats? Maybe the ECU is looking for a slower O2 action after the precats? I am just curious what function the ECU is looking for because technically cats don't alter your exhaust A/F ratio, but I guess the rate of radical change may be altered. What do you think (or know)?

Also, is it true that above a certain speed the DBW does not go 100% open?

 

Security LED should be lit by both the smart entrance AND the NATS "LED" output. In my FSM, they were in parallel, simple as that. Your LED should flash by either the NATS or smart entrance, or both will cause it to flash.

 

I kind of have to disagree with that statement. Over a relatively long period of time, it is true that the net amount of oxygen present at the outlet is the same as the inlet (if the front O2 is doing its job) However it is what happens on a much smaller time scale that is important from an emissions standpoint. The catalytic converter is constantly absorbing and releasing O2 in order to perform the oxidation and reduction reactions necessary to reduce harmful emissions. It is this cycling between O2 storage and release that causes the slower cycling frequency for the rear sensor.

The FSM does not really do the topic justice.
This patent and the ones referenced within gives a much more comprehensive summary of how it all works.

http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-P...S=PN/5,842,340

Here is a related international patent submitted by Nissan Motor Co.

http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?...DISPLAY=STATUS



Engine or vehicle speed?

Engine speed - http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...0&postcount=47

Vehicle speed - I know up to 6500 rpm in 3rd there is no effect.

 

I heard that above 80mph when cruising then going to full throttle the ECU may not be opening the throttle all the way. But when going say 65mph, then going full throttle thru 80+ the DBW will be open 100% until you let off, if you get back on it beyond 80mph it will have reduced throttle opening.

Another one for ya, if I am low on gas and getting a "DTE" warning in my cluster, will the ECU turn off the AC relay? My AC performance cut out today at about the same time as my DTE started flashing (low gas). After filling her back up, all was well for 40 miles. Not sure, can't find much in the FSM about what causes the ECU to cut the compressor. I did read that the Gen 5.5 uses a variable disp. compressor (which reduces AC comp cycling and improves pressures during temp extremes), and of course my A32 does not, so I don't know what effect that will have. Never had AC problems before, and I did not discharge my AC during the swap. What do you think?

 

Never heard about that one before.

My fuel tank has never been below 1/8 tank so I have never seen the low fuel indicator. Also, I very rarely use AC in my vehicle (prefer an open window)

That question would be better posed in the 5th gen forum.

 

answer to the A/C question...no, i drive a lot of miles and many of those are with the DTE flashing, but my ac always still works

 

Well, after much thought and reading the FSM's, I may have a theory about my problem the other day. The Gen 5.5 ECU does not cut ACRLY output like the A32 ECU would. I am sure there must be some circumstances that would cause the 5.5 to cut ACRLY, but RPM's does not seem to be one, but the A32 will cut based on RPM's to protect the compressor. Why is this important? Because the 2004 I35, and possibly all 5.5 gens use a "V6 Variable Displacement" compressor. This type of compressor compensates for temperatures, pressures, loads and RPM's through variable displacement, per FSM. So, the A32 is a more basic compressor that needs to be shut off during higher revs. I am wondering if I over-revved my compressor and caused the AC system to shut down due to high head pressures? This is worth noting for anyone doing this swap that needs AC. I need AC for the winter to dehumidify and for the summers, so I gotta figure this out.

 

All A32's have a "V6 variable displacement" compressor. It still needs protection from excessive engine RPM. The A33B ECU (like the A32) has an a/c cut function for this reason, but it doesn't use ACRLY to do it. The I35 ECU provides a ground on ECU pin #30 (ACPDCUT) and sends the signal to the a/c auto amp to cut the a/c off. Since you retained the A32 manual a/c controls, you will have to wire in a relay between ACRLY and the compressor so that it will cut the signal to the compressor when the ground signal from ACPDCUT is sent based on excessive throttle position and/or revs. Even without the proactive a/c cut function working, the A32 triple pressure switch should still protect the system from excessively high/low pressures.

As for getting your a/c working again, are you sure that ECU pin #81 is seeing a 1.0-4.0V signal. If not, the ECU won't send a ground signal to ACRLY. If it is, perhaps the A32 triple pressure switch is sensing excessively high/low pressures and preventing the compressor from engaging.


This very topic had been covered here, BTW... http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...8&postcount=61

From this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=487345

 

I am using two 1K ohm resistors to supply a 2.5volt signal to the ECU. The ECU always sees 2.5V, so it won't find a reason to cut ACRLY from this side. I really think I over revved my A32 compressor. As long as I don't rev up the engine while the AC is on, the AC works perfectly, just like before my swap.

 

Ok.......


Then it's the triple pressure switch cutting the a/c off. I'd still add that relay for the a/c cut function for added safety, though. Proactive > reactive.

 

I may need to get an RPM switch just to protect the compressor.

 

Why try to skate uphill? Like I said before, the ECU conveniently provides a ground to perform the a/c cut function.

 

I think we may be in different pages of the book. The 5.5 Gen ECU is not responsible for AC cutout at higher RPM's. The newer AC compressor they use does not require it. My old A32 compressor needs to be shut off at higher revs. My AC system is wired per the I35 FSM+A32 FSM, which means it does not get RPM protection. Yes, the triple switch will cut it out for overpressure, but there is no RPM protection provided by my 5.5 ECU.

So far, the only thing I can tell the ECU does with the AC signal is idle compensation and keeping the AC off for the first few moments after the car is started.

 

Not sure why you're convinced that the A33B compressor is vastly different than the A32 compressor. Per their respective FSM's, they are both V-6 variable displacement.

In any case, the A33B ECU does have an a/c cut feature based on revs, coolant temp, start condition, throttle position, etc. I will not argue this with you. Just because you haven't implemented the wiring to utilize it doesn't mean it's not available to you.

 

You may be right about the specs on the A32. I read the A33B compressor description and they mentioned it is a new design unlike that used on previous applications. Maybe I have assumed incorrectly, and I have a different problem. But you are assuming I have not implemented the wiring correctly? The car is completely wired per I35 FSM. Everything properly in place and functioning fine aside from missing downstream O2 sensors, PSP sensor, stupid little things like that. Anyway, the wiring is 100% fully implemented, and all my AC functions are correctly wired. But, I may be barking up the wrong tree, if this problem persists I'll need to find a way to get a Consult-II and do some real troubleshooting. Unfortunately, I likely will never get around to that. No time!

 

Hmmm....


I wonder what ECU pin #30 is for...

 

Yup they are! I need to take more time reading up on the FSM's.

I'll do more troubleshooting and see what's really up. Anyways, these days it works fine, don't know why it did what it did that one day.