Okay, so up and running. Fuel injectors were backwards. Got the idle where I want it. Let it idle for about five minutes and thought I heard something spraying. Checked to see.... can't see anything... I'll keep looking. As far as I know it's not a vacuum leak but I'll triple check everything again... I have CEL's (IACV I'm sure) but I'm a little nervous about taking it anywhere until I figure out where that sound is coming from.

 

I still to this day have a hissing noise that can't possibly be a vacuum leak and I can't for the life of me find it. Car runs awesome, too. Could be my IACV, I don't know. But, you don't have an IACV. Try and find whatever it is; if you can't, and the car runs fine, don't worry about it TOO much.

Take my advice...keep a tiny set of tools in your glovebox. I keep both kinds of screwdrivers, a 10mm socket on a wrench, an 8mm open-ended wrench, and a roll of duct tape in my own. Seriously. I can tackle most any issue, at least temporarily, that could arise while I am on the road.

 

Yes sir. It was a vacuum leak, I guess. The IACV "port" was leaking. Patched it up, good to go. I do have some oil on the rear exhaust manifold so I'm gonna spray it with some degreaser and washer fluid. Hopefully that will keep my car from smoking. Still working on the RPM switch, but for this drive I don't think I'll need the VIAS too much. Everything is tip top as far as I can tell. Thank you for all the help. I don't know how else I would've been without the help of such knowledgeable people.

 

Okay okay okay.... I want to make sure I got this right cause I'm not getting anything out of the RPM switch. Power to power, yellow to VIAS ground, power to VIAS power, Grey to ground? White to white/green for tach? ground to ground. Right? Or wrong?

 

Black = ground
Red = 12v power
White = tach signal
Yellow = VIAS ground
Gray = untouched, simply tape up the end of it and stash it somewhere, don't connect it
VIAS positive = any 12v source

 

Still no power to the VIAS I guess. Is the white/green wire the tach?

 

You cannot identify the tach wire by color alone. There are multiple white/green wires and not every year is white/green, either. The only way to identify it properly is by finding the right corresponding pin on the connector, or going to the TAM screw.

Have you tested to see if there is a 12v signal in the wire you're using to power the VIAS? Also, I believe on the VIAS red = power and green = ground. You also need to make sure you are getting the right plug...you're not accidentally hooking up a swirl valve solenoid, are you?

 

Well alright... I have two plugs for the VIAS. One is black the other brown. The injector clip from the 4th gen fits into the black plug. If I am at the front of the car looking in, the left pin is positive and the right is negative?

 

The brown harness is for the swirl valves, so you can ignore that one. But yeah, looking in from the front of the car, I ran the left pin to my positive battery terminal and connected the right pin to the yellow wire from my Summit rpm switch. What year is your car? I definitely recommend using the TAM screw for the signal. On my '95, I was able to get a wire run from that screw in like 15 minutes. Sure beats cutting into my ecu harness!

 

What he said. I am surprised to hear the clip for the VIAS solenoid is the same as a 4th gen injector

 

Ah well it works perfectly. Anywho, I have a bigger problem than the VIAS not working right now. I need to know what you guys used (if anything) to replace the feed FPR. I blew the adapter that I had made and have yet been able to fix it. I've been looking all over the place for the fitting that the guy on Nicoclub used but I can't find it anywhere. What did you use? http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121423

 

The fuel rail I just cut the hose and ran a new to it. The vias whats it doing? When you try to pull it back what does it do it should open? The litte arm on the side of it

 

The RPM switch isn't turning on for me. I think I just don't have the correct wire spliced. No biggie. I need to get the car running before I do anything. I bought a fuel rail adapter off of eBay that should work.

 

YOu could just hook a hose to the medal line from the fpr

 

The switch unit itself is not getting power? Is that what you're saying?

 

No no, whenever I rev it to 5K the green light that supposed to come on if the RPM switch is working doesn't. I'm getting power to the unit but the shift point isn't working so I'm thinking it's the tach signal. It's not the RPM switch. I have all the correct settings on it.

 

Yeah, I'll agree, it must be the tach signal. If the ECU wiring harness is where you originally tapped it, try the TAM screw. It's a lot harder to get it wrong that way

 

I haven't been able to retry the new way I spliced the wire but if it doesn't work I'll definitely do that. Gotta get the engine running first though.

 

Good point. I would just skip messing with the wiring harness altogether, though, I think you'll be glad you did. That is, unless you're installing other components later for tuning, i.e. AFC. Then it's probably good practice to do this now.

 

Haha yeah, I got a VAFC the other day. I'm leaving that for later though. I may even take it somewhere to be done. For the record, I spliced the wire behind the gauges not at the ECU. That's probably why I'll take it somewhere. I really dislike wiring. I've done it a billion times but I'm tired of it.

 

Anywho, where would I get that fitting? Someone please help! Haha eBay guy said it wouldn't be here for at least 2 weeks.

 

Ok, let me say thank you to you guys. Wealth of VIAS info in here...and rpm switches, and...well, lots of stuff.

I have a Q for you though, Augusta Moon, why did you need a fuel rail adapter? I dont recall reading anything about this in any other threads...did you use an 00 gen fuel rail?

 

Yes, I did use the 00 fuel rail. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=121423 if you follow this link it shows that you "need" an adapter. The reason I'm looking for one is because I used the 5th Gen FPR and I couldn't get the car to start. I blew an adapter I had made and ended up almost igniting my car. Well not really, but it could've happened. Anyway, the adapter that I ordered off of eBay is like this http://weapon-r.com/english/index.ph...oducts_id=6180
Unfortunately it won't get here until 2 weeks from now. My car is currently stuck in the middle of Texas 200 miles from me. So if anyone knows where to get something similar to the one off of Nicoclub, let me know. I need to go to a store to pick this up. Mail is too long. MOHF is you need one, I'll sell it to you for 15 shipped cause I got 2. I just ordered another one off of Weapon-R and overnighted it. I was stupid and didn't think of it sooner.

 

Lowe's, Home Depot, and even some hardware stores might have them. You just have to know what you're looking for.
Yes, he is using a 5th gen fuel rail. 5th gens have a returnless fuel system and 4th gens have a return system, and unless you convert to a returnless system, you have to remove that extra damper on the 5th gen fuel rail and put a fitting in its place.

 

make sure to set that summit switch lower than your actual desired RPM. It was designed for 8cyl vehicles, so i've noticed that a setting somewhere around 3200-3400 will open the VI between 4 and 5k RPM's. If you have the actual switch set to 5,000, it will pretty much never open

 

Still no dice. I've been running around town all morning to no avail.

 

Gimme a heads up when ur lookin to get that vafc installed. I wouldnt pay labor for just the wiring. We'll tackle it in no time, as long as you have a pinout. GL w/ everything else.

 

Has anyone tried making their own RPM switch? I found schematics online, and I know how to do it. I read everything and understand the theory and design behind it, what each thing does, etc...(not to mention, plenty of electrical experience, sources and hands on)

It monitors coil signaling, comparing the timing with a set time(the rpms that the switch will open)(pot resistance btw). When the signal interval reaches the set interval, the switch opens. Its not cyl specific, IIRC, so it might be a better, more reliable choice for this?

http://www.eagle-research.com/fuelsa.../83honda2.html <-Schematic I'm referring to.

Augusta Moon, I hope you dont mind me asking this, just trying to get an answer, and it is relative to the rpm switch issue...

 

Nah man, it's all good. Personally, I think you'd be better off just spending the 40 bucks on the Summit RPM switch... Up to you.

 

I thought about that too. But, after looking around at a few electronics dealers, I think I came out to under $20 for this. Its an option, and since most of the switches are designed for 8s, this might be a good option. Just lookin for someone with some more knowledge to step in and shoot me down and tell me I'm crazy for thinking such a thing...but then again, it may be perfect for this...

Minus the led, spst switch and 555 timing IC, it came out to be $10.55 + shipping(should be about $5 for the place I'm looking). Overall, it looks like I could build these for about $20. Using a relay for the switch, it would come on when the ignition does. LED can be mounted wherever, dash, engine bay, anywhere. It would be adjustable via a small screwdriver, kind of like checking your cel. I might build one and test it with my 00vi that's coming. Anyone got a word of advice for the two rpm switch nubs here?

 

I think it's cool that you have the knowledge to tackle that. For 20 bucks, what do you have to lose? The summit will run you like $50-60 shipped.

 

Yeah, I noticed one thing though. Its possible that with that switch, it would have to be running for up to a minute to thermally stabilize. However, most of the components have a wide range of operating temps...so I dont think that is a factor.

However, this might be: I dont think you could mount this in your bay(unless you used insulation in your project box). Is it a bad thing/abnormal thing to mount it elsewhere(say, glove box, or something)?

 

Well depending on what temps those electrical components are going to reach it could possibly be a problem, especially if you have a map or something in there as well. Not to mention, watch for shorts. If anything, I'm sure you could go to CompUSA and find some sort of enclosure to stick say under one of the seats. Just an idea.

 

I once modeled the Harlan using PCB software. Horrifically simple device.

 

No, its not the fact that they wold get hot. Not worried about that. Its the fact that the bay may get to hot for the electronics. Also, a small, 25mm fan might be a nice addition if it turns out they do get warm(but think about it, so does your modem, your vcr, xbox, anything gets hot; but not usually hot enough to start a fire). Not to mention...glove box would be kind of nice to make sure its working right. Pop it open and watch the LED.

Oh, project box? Check Radioshack. click me!

00vi comin soon!

 

how much hp does the 00VI make over the USIM and MEVI?

 

Read the stickys

nismology did a great job in fixing them, so put his well spent time to work, ok?

 

sorry....over-looked the sticky. i see it this time. my bad. thanks.

 

This is what I got. Anyone doing this swap, if you can't find the parts, like me, I highly recommend Weapon-R.

 

Okay, so what's the TAM screw?