I didn't relocate the PCV valve far, only a couple inches to get it out from under the UM. If you do the elbow carefully it works fine with no leaks. But so would tapping a new port, and it's a cleaner solution.

 

Ok, with tapping a new port, it would make the outlet out the side, correct? Like in Caesars thread? Then, you would still use the same PCV? Wouldnt like a straight PCV(instead of 90*) be better? Just a though.

Im going to port it out the side. Doin it 'right', the best way possible.

 

Get a 5th gen PCV then and use that... it's straight.

 

Well guys, it looks like the 00vi isn't going on this week. I still need to buy an RPM switch and I want to replace the KS while I've got the LIM off....best time to do it. Im strapped for cash.

Anyhow, I have a question. I was sent the bolts to the 00vi, and from what I assumed, they were the ones for the UIM to bolt to the LIM. However, they are 6-1.00mm bolts. They are too small for the brass sleeves in the UIM. Is this right? Are these the right bolts? Anybody know what they go to? Thanks!

 

Looking for some info on port and polishing. Or atleast something I can do at home. I tried a dremel sanding head, it I used a head per port, so not the way to go. Any other advice?

Oh, and Im not looking to bore out 1/4inch just get it smooth and not the 'cast' texture.

 

The brass sleeves are just that...sleeves. They have no thread to them. The bolts should slide right down through and then thread into the LIM.
If you just want rid of the cast marks and what not, I just smoothed it down with a dremel and used sandpaper to make it REALLY smooth.

 

Yeah, I knew that. But what Im trying to figure out is this: I was sent bolts with my kit. They are about 5inches long with a "12" on the head, 6mm in diameter, and a thread pattern of 6.00x1mm. However, the inner diameter of the brass sleeves like 7mm or 8mm. What bolts did I get?

On a side note, would it even matter if the bolts are smaller than the sleeves? I have a dowel positioning setup, so in theory, the dowels hold the UIM in place and the bolts bolt it down...make any sense?

I tried the dremel. I used the round sanding cylinders and I used 2 heads per port before they wore out. And it didnt even increase the inner diameter, just smooth it out. I am gonna pick up a kit if I want to do this. Thanks to doublea.

 

The top bolts are essentially to pull the two together, yes. IIRC, the bolts won't be the exact same diameter as the sleeves. If they thread in and they're long enough and are the right type head-wise, you're fine.

Might not be worth it then. Mine didn't take near that much effort.

 

i think im gonna go ahead and do an 00vi swap here myself, i did the MEVI and it was veryyyy easy. hopefully this wont be so bad. i like either set-up number 2 or 4 on Tatankos website. i dont want to do any drilling and i like the idea of using the larger injectors too. so i guess im in for a journey starting now. quite frankly im scared, lol

will i get a cel using either of those set-ups? i have inspections and cant have any codes.

 

As long as you connect all your IACV equipment and at least the EGR temp sensor you should be okay.

 

As far as I know, he is right.

Oh, and Im sorry for the lack of updates. Im really slow at this, and I dont have a job(working on that) so I dont have cash for RPM switch, port and polish kit, etc...

 

Kyle can't wait to get crackin on this project with you.

 

I can sell your my Summit for 25 shipped if you want.

 

Yeah the EGR temp sensor is the only reason I have a code. The sensor is actually sitting in my house.

 

Augusta Moon, you mean an RPM switch? What happened to yours? Have an extra?

 

I bought a Summit RPM switch before I bought the VAFC. So I now have the VIAS on the VAFC instead of the RPM switch. PM me if you're interested.

 

Does anyone know the bolt size/diameter/length or thread pattern for the UIM to LIM bolts? Apparently Ive got some wrong bolts that I have no idea what they go to. Is there a specific number for these?

Updated first post.

 

Ok, so I wont be running EGR in this swap, Ive a block off plate.

My next question is, has anyone thought of making like a mold to fill in the EGR cavity? In theory, strealining the inside, and creating less turbulence is what its about. Any ideas/input?

 

Alright guys, im in the middle of the swap. I need some info on what to remove for the EGR system, like the whole system, just the guide tube, anything?

Ive checked tatankos site along with the sticky threads.

 

Well, you can either do it the right way and take the EGR tube all the way off then block off the exhaust manifold with a bolt or you can cut the guide tube, and JB weld a nickel over the tube (which is what I did). Keep the EGR temp sensor or you'll throw a code. I'll be back in town on the 5th so if you want, I'll probably be able to send you the RPM switch that day.

 

Alright man, we removed everything. Ive got a UIM blockoff plate. I am going to Ace to find a bolt. Can I let the temp sensor dangle?

Oh, and the 5th sounds awesome! Just let me know man!

 

Yeah, you can let it hang or just wrap it around something. Either way works.

 

If you need halp through the swap let me know as I pretty much just completed mine besides one little problem but that will hopefully be fixed tomorrow. I will be posting a thread shortly possibly...

 

Well I am helping MOHFpro do this swap its been an interesting day. Tomorrow we hope to get it up and running. all thats left is all the hose attachments, UIM, and TB and thats about it.

 

yea the hose attachments arent to bad its just a pain sometimes getting them on and off but besides that its a fairly easy job.

I might as well post my question here as well as in my thread I made, Is it possible for me to use a stock air filter box? If yes how???

Thanks
Stephen

Oh and good luck with completeing it tomorrow it will be worth it when its done!!

 

Hey thanks man! As far as I know, no you can not. The 00vi puts the TB further back, and the mid pipe and air box would be on/hitting/against the strut well and the brake system.

I will be running Tb coupled to the MAF coupled to a Filter. I am not sure what I am going to do with the front valve cover breather yet.

Anyone know whether it is safe to drill the stock MAF housing and install a nipple connector into the hole?

 

Kyle I'll take care of the breather for you, I'll just do it like mine don't worry about it, we will find a cheap filter

 

Yea I am going to have to do something like that and join the midpipe and crap upto the MAF then to a cone filter...Thanks for the help I will let you know how mine goes, let me know how yours does.

Thanks

 

Ok, Im not starting. It will start, barely, then burble a bit then do like mini backfires into the intake manifold(you can hear the pops through the filter). Then it stalls. Any ideas?

 

Vacuum leaks, make sure all injectors and coil packs are working, make sure it's getting fuel. Check everything possible. Even check fuses. When I first went to start I was only running on 3 cylinders (rear bank) so it wouldn't stay running for more than a few seconds. You have to double and triple check everything.

 

as augusta said just go back over everything and double check it and make sure you haven't made a small mistake somewhere.

Good luck!

 

i've been there through all of the process of kyle's 00vi swap, I'm gonna pull the spark plugs to see if they any evidence of ignition. If not then go from there, I think augusta maybe right maybe something weird, cause the engine was really weird it was really off blanace I bet its only running a few cylinders.

the over thing is his pcv valve liquid gasket blew a hole in the gasket. We resealed it and we will lt it sit over night. Thank god we took pictures of this before hand cause its helped with trying to figure out where everything goes

 

Well what I'm thibking was that the gasket hole caused loss of conpression on the rear bank and thus the balance was all off, etc...I also need to secure my evap vacuum line as the nipple is too big for the line. Othee than that all vac lines are fine.

I really think that it has to do with compression, ignition, etc due to the way it was acting with the revving up then puttering then reving them finally dying.

 

Alright, I tried to start it again tonight after fixing a lot of possible vac leaks. It didnt backfire like it did before(and the liquid gasket held).

BUT, I have the following codes:

0102-MAF (I dont know why I am getting this)
0203-Closed Throttle Position Switch...what does this mean??
0304-KS (my fake KS is unplugged)

I am really questioning what to do with this TPS...any ideas?

 

Ok, no more codes, I guess they went away...?

Heres what I ve got now:

Spark Plug(brand new installed during swap). Smells like gas



Start up video. I gave it gas to keep it alive. But it takes a lot of throttle to even do that.

 

sounds like the idle isn't being kept steady, and you have to hold the gas to keep it running.. TPS setup right?

 

I didnt set it up, Dave(Silmax00) did. I know the plugs are correct(brown v grey). I will check to make sure the signal plate is in line with the pin.

I noticed the IACV plug wasnt attached correctly, so I modified it again and fixed it. Could this be the reason it was acting to crazy?

Also, why would my brand new plugs be so black already? My other plugs I pulled werent black at all, just used and worn down...

 

I set his TPS just as I did mine, parallel to the TB opening, we can pull it tomorrow and check it.

From my dealings with engines kyle its normal spark plug wear so far. its just your engine isn't firing correctly, it seems to be running rich. I am at loss tho right now for solutions.

My phone died and I feel asleep tonight I'm sorry man, call me tomorrow and I'll come over and work on it with you some more

 

Im wondering if the TPS is sensing that "hey, he's at 40% throttle", then it will be dumping a crapload of fuel in, and not enough air is getting in(thus really running rich). Would the MAF readings correct this or would if continue to dump fuel?

 

Have you tried disconnecting the tps? If it idles with the tps plugged out then you may need to re-calibrate it or replace it (if the latter, you can use the tps from your 4th gen tb - that's what I had to do since my 5th gen tps was busted). With the engine fully warmed up, try to get it as close to 500 ohms at idle, 4,000 WOT as you can. Also, my car was dieing as soon as I let off the gas as well. I had to adjust the idle screw on the TB. Once I tweaked that, I also tweaked the IACV screw, and everything is golden! Cold starts at 1k+, drops down to 650. Congrats on getting it started!