let me start by saying i have read what threads and stickies are available (can't search for "3.5"). if i miss something obvious pls don't flame me, i am a car guy but not great mechanically. i tend to lean more towards show but i'm considering going sport/luxury with my project. the car is a 1998 maxima gle automatic. heres some thoughts that are crossing my mind:

1.if done right is it possible to not get a cel (i.e. can it function as stock)?
2.what would be the best solution for the ecu (i.e. stock ecu with eu, a33)?
3.what should you do before installing the engine (i.e. internals)?
4.i have to stay auto (injury), so is there anything i should do to the tranny?
5.does the pathfinder tb work with NO modification? i perfer using oem parts to one-offs.

if i do the swap i want it to look/perform as if it were stock. is this asking too much? i would like to use cattman 4g headers/catback and the kinetix ssv (i've read the discussions, call it the show in me). no issues here, correct? also, if there is anybody in houston who can/knows somebody who can do the swap lmk.

if you know of a thread or link i should check out feel free to post it. i have no problem reading for myself. thanks y'all.

 

#1- yes, very fw have bothered to do this but theres ways to get around the CEL that would creep up from the swap
#2- Depends on the swap you do. If you do 3.5 motor on 3.0 ECU (mean you have to run 3.0 timing equipment), then stock ECU it is. If you want to keep the 3.5's variable cam timing control, then you must rewire the whole car for the A33b+ ECU
#3- Depends on how much power you want out of it. You dont have to do anything internally for the swap to work. But if you plan to boost it later then you might want to consider changing the pistons to lower comp before swapping it in, etc...
#4- Big B&M tranny cooler, Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, DR mod on a WOT switch, and I would personally opt for a stage 2 valve body- but thats just me. Also mount a temp probe on the tranny fluid outlet line bet'n the tranny and the cooler and run it to the temp guage inside- so that if you see those tranny temps gettinga bit too hot, you can ease off and give it a chance to cool off before you burn through it.
#5- No. Bolt Pattern is different for the PF TB. Either redrill the mouth of the elbow, or get the adapter plates.

So you want it to look and perform like stock? I dont get it. Then wtf is the point of the swap? the 3.5 IM sure LOOKS different than the USIM, especially if you want that bling bling Kinetix IM, and with a 3.5, the car will DEFINITELY not perform like stock (thank God LOL).

There's a few texas folks that can do the swap (dont know if they can do it FOR you however). The first one that comes to mind is Stephen Max, also MexiMax and 915Max did their own swaps as well. Of course Im not sure if they WOULD do a swap for you, but it doesnt hurt to ask.

 

you misunderstood... i want it to look/perform AS IF it were stock (i.e. as if it came in the car as far as reliability and appearence).

if i use the 3.0 ecu is tuning reccomended (i.e. eu?)

i guess i should have mentioned that i perfer it be done by a shop, just so somebody is accountable if something goes wrong. if you know of a shop in houston that could handle this flawlessly lmk.

 

Tuning is a must all the time.

DF

 

whats the perferred method?

 

Since you want to retain the "like stock" look/feel, I don't forsee you running big MAF, open headers and such, so EU would be over kill. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a minimum, a fuel controller (SAFC, etc.) and dyno tuning would be recommended.

It will be very tough finding a shop to do this in Houston (or anywhere else for that matter), particularly because of the accountability. I only know of 2of us here in Houston that have done VQ35 swaps, and both were done by ourselves.

 

1. There are a few answers here, but do you want A33B ECU or A32 ECU? A32 ECU requires some bypassing of EGR stuff, but not too bad. A33B with the AT will always throw codes because the A33B AT ECU has a CAN system (Controlled Area Network) that is looking for VDC or TCS/ABS data. Mine is this way, I always get a CEL because my CAN lines are "open" or missing equipment.

2. Best possible solution for ECU is full A33B implementation. 2nd best and seems most popular is A32 with some basic tuning mods like SAFC and you'll need to bypass EGR stuff to keep your CEL off. Benefit of A33B ECU is full on VTC and VIAS control. VIAS is debatable for some people, and can be kept with the A32 ECU if you use a RPM switch. VTC however can not be operated without the A33B ECU and I don't care what anyone says, VTC is worth having. VTC is analogous to a Honda with or without VTEC. A32 ECU will require you to bypass the VTC

3. Any engine swap/replacement should have all seals/gaskets/water pump stuff replaced if the "new" motor has enough miles to warrant the service. Remember, the easiest time to replace these things is when the engine is sitting in your garage.

4. I heard that the Gen 4 AT will not be reliable with such a boost in power. However, I think this may be due to people who swap to 3.5 on an old AT that may have been borderline to begin with. However, as long as you don't drive it hard all the time, I would say no special prep required for the AT other than routine services. IMO extra coolers/temp sensors etc may be overkill on an old AT that may not survive no matter what band aids you put on it. I don't run any of that on mine.

5. I dunno!

As others have said, no matter what path you choose, you should buy a good AFPR now because you'll need it no matter what. If you use the A33B ECU the AFPR should be set to 51PSI static.

 

hmmm... thanks for the info guys. i am sure i could have done this myself (i have pulled/installed engines before) without my injury, but its out of the question now. i think i'll just stick with my 3.0 because i'm not really into racing or anything, i really just wanted something to set my car apart from the norm. it seems like theres too many corners to cut and things that could possibly go wrong. thanks for all the help guys.

 

You are right, there is alot of things that can go wrong. Nothing wrong with the VQ30DE, it's a great engine and the A32 is still a great performing car 12 years since it was introduced.

My wife is not too happy with my swap. It took me 2 straight weeks of after work knuckle busting. After my car was done it ran perfectly for two weeks, then the FPR started leaking, the crossmember mounts have become clunky, my Warpspeed Y-Pipe rattles when in reverse, and my rear O2 sensor has crapped out causing my MPG to nosedive. Hey it's a 10 year old car. Even if I did not mod it the car would still require maintenence eventually. i could have bought a new car too!

 

Would someone be so kind and point me to some good threads regarding bypassing the EGR on a 3.5 swap (A32 ECU) Thanks

 

I need to get rid of my EGR code ASAP

 

I just discovered lately that the 2008 Quest 3.5 has EGR, that means a built-in port in the upper intake manifold. It does not correspond to the location on the A32 engine so this would require some fabricating. It could be used to hook up the A32 EGR system somehow. I plan on trying this when my swap gets further along, since it is just in the planning stage now.