any more info on JWT C-2 cams?...VQ35
Yeah that works too.. lol forgot about that one. I make marks anyways, just habit. Plus when I was doing my DEK at times I was rotating things without the oil pump installed.
Last edited by DandyMax; Nov 2, 2007 at 11:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
From: Hershey, PA
so i took the y-pipe off today to weld a WBo2 bung and i decided i would test out open headers... wow is all i have to say. it sounds mean as hell and pulls very very hard up to 7k (TS reflash)... it would be cool to dyno open headers but it is such a PITA to get the y pipe out.
Anyways, i yanked the heads off and will be putting them back on soon... so here is my question, i saw nismology either recommends stock bolts or the arp l19 bolts, but not just the regular run of the mill ARP... are stock bolts just as good as regular arp's?
Anyways, i yanked the heads off and will be putting them back on soon... so here is my question, i saw nismology either recommends stock bolts or the arp l19 bolts, but not just the regular run of the mill ARP... are stock bolts just as good as regular arp's?
Rotate the crank so the cylinder you're working on is at TDC. Then...
Air: use a compressor with the appropriate fitting for the spark plug hole. Pressurized the cylinder so valves don't fall in, (don't need high psi though, just a few, or you might end up pushing the piston down/rotating the crank)
String/rope: unspool string/rope through the spark plug hole, filling up the space between the top of the piston, then valves won't drop in as the string/rope occupies the space.
And of course doing all this you should have marked the crank before disassembly of the timing chains/cams so that once you go to reinstall the cams/sprockets/chains you know where to rotate the crank to TDC on the #1 cylinder. (Or if you forgot you could find it approximately using a compression gauge).
BTW did you check the JWT shim thickness?
Oh and contact doublea, he might be wanting stock 3.5 cams...
Air: use a compressor with the appropriate fitting for the spark plug hole. Pressurized the cylinder so valves don't fall in, (don't need high psi though, just a few, or you might end up pushing the piston down/rotating the crank)
String/rope: unspool string/rope through the spark plug hole, filling up the space between the top of the piston, then valves won't drop in as the string/rope occupies the space.
And of course doing all this you should have marked the crank before disassembly of the timing chains/cams so that once you go to reinstall the cams/sprockets/chains you know where to rotate the crank to TDC on the #1 cylinder. (Or if you forgot you could find it approximately using a compression gauge).
BTW did you check the JWT shim thickness?
Oh and contact doublea, he might be wanting stock 3.5 cams...
Thanks anyway.
P.S: Where do you get the HR spring, retainer and shim from ? I need to order those asap as I want to finish my engine assembly during the christmas holiday.
Cheers
AA
I didn't know at first that the HR where Nissan parts. Anyway I ordered the HR spring, spring retainer and seats from Dave B this PM. What a nice guy he is, I understand why evebody talk about him, I also ordered the cam adaptor from Stephen'sMax with 121/112 spec.
lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
From: Hershey, PA
Alright everyone, i got my heads done with the new JWT springs in, also a mild port/cleanup was done on the heads and knife edged the intake split in the ports.
So i do have a question and want some input on it. since this is a strictly N/A build (kinda), which head gaskets should i use? the 2 layer maxima ones of the 3 layer 350z and i am think that the maxima ones will be a better choice here to help keep any little bit of high compression. Also, going by what nismology has been saying, as far as head bolts/studs go, its stock bolts or the ARP L19's and i think the L19s are a little over kill for what I am going for here (really want 290whp)
And here are some pics for the people that like picture books.
(excuse the poopy quality, iPhone photos arent the best in a somewhat dark garage)
So i do have a question and want some input on it. since this is a strictly N/A build (kinda), which head gaskets should i use? the 2 layer maxima ones of the 3 layer 350z and i am think that the maxima ones will be a better choice here to help keep any little bit of high compression. Also, going by what nismology has been saying, as far as head bolts/studs go, its stock bolts or the ARP L19's and i think the L19s are a little over kill for what I am going for here (really want 290whp)
And here are some pics for the people that like picture books.
(excuse the poopy quality, iPhone photos arent the best in a somewhat dark garage)
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,806
Since your doing a NA build I suggest going you go to a 3in collector on the Y pipe at least. NA developements on SR20's have found that with bigger cams, the engine needs a custom header to maximize power. The big 3 for NA motors is compression, cams, header as the big power adders. Now that you have cams, a custom header will really wake up the car. On stock compression SR20's have picked up 40-50whp with big cams + custom tuned header over stock. Also given the CVTC you have, tuning of that should go hand in hand with the custom header. You should be able to pick up a lot of midrange as well.
Alright everyone, i got my heads done with the new JWT springs in, also a mild port/cleanup was done on the heads and knife edged the intake split in the ports.
So i do have a question and want some input on it. since this is a strictly N/A build (kinda), which head gaskets should i use? the 2 layer maxima ones of the 3 layer 350z and i am think that the maxima ones will be a better choice here to help keep any little bit of high compression. Also, going by what nismology has been saying, as far as head bolts/studs go, its stock bolts or the ARP L19's and i think the L19s are a little over kill for what I am going for here (really want 290whp)
So i do have a question and want some input on it. since this is a strictly N/A build (kinda), which head gaskets should i use? the 2 layer maxima ones of the 3 layer 350z and i am think that the maxima ones will be a better choice here to help keep any little bit of high compression. Also, going by what nismology has been saying, as far as head bolts/studs go, its stock bolts or the ARP L19's and i think the L19s are a little over kill for what I am going for here (really want 290whp)
I used a new set of OEM head bolts and ARP rod bolts, and those went well. I did use my 24" breaker bar to finish tightening those head bolts - I kept waiting for the dreaded "snap" but all went well.
Oh yeah, I also have custom headers (hand-carved from OBX collectors) which merges into my 3" Warpspeed collector, 3" hi-flow cat, and 3" pipe and muffler. When idling, each exhaust pulse can be felt "popping" out of the muffler tip. And the car pulls like crazy at the top end.......
.
Last edited by grey99max; Dec 16, 2007 at 08:18 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
From: Hershey, PA
thanks for the props, I can't take credit for the heads as I had my machine guy do them and they look awesome.
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,806
That will work however I'd suggest maybe contacting Cattman to see if you can get a custom 3in collector made. That way if you ever change to a different setup the old header won't be modified and could be sold to recoup some cost. Also this link will allow you to do calculations for a new header design with your new cams. Otherwise a 3in collector should increase the power in your motor especially if you can increase the overlap.
thanks for the props, I can't take credit for the heads as I had my machine guy do them and they look awesome.
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
thanks for the props, I can't take credit for the heads as I had my machine guy do them and they look awesome.
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
I guess I'll be doing oem head bolts with 350z HG's... Arp rod bolts are done...
I have cattman headers, if I have the collector cut and weld a 3" one on, would that still work well?
Again, thanks for all the help and Info so far
Matt
Here is a shot of the merge into the 3" Warpspeed cat and pipes on back to the muffler tip, with 3" cutout installed. This is 2 -2" stainless pipes into a 3" stainless collector and 3" turbo flex into the 3" cat...
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