completed the 00vi swap last week! went perfect!!! I used the 4th gen lower, IACV adaptor plate and 5th gen TB. Didnt eleminate the EGR and the car runs so strong...OMG its like night and day!

The only problem Im having is starting...when you first crank it will start and then the RPMs imediatly drop and the car cuts off. Unless I gas it before it dies and then it will idle fine at 700-800. what do I adjust to keep it from doing this?

 

sorry to immediately off topic this but did you use the 4th or 5th gen rear cover and ignition coils?

 

Check vacuum lines?

 

Whereabouts are you? I am in PA and in this extremely cold weather mine does the exact same thing. Anything above like 40 degrees and it's fine, though. This is sort of an accepted downside of the swap, and very few that encounter it are able to fix it.

Just curious, does your throttlebody have stop canister on it?

 

mine also does the same thing. you have to keep your foot on the gas for at least a few seconds. then it runs sweet. for several months thats all i had to do. and when i drove around town everything was sweet as well.

then a new thing started on mine where I still had the cold start issues, but when driving around town every time i came to a stop sign, redlight etc, the rpms would just drop and the engine would die. not even sure why it started happening.

Odd thing was, I started putting the car in neutral before stops and just did some braking and it wouldnt die when coming to a stop. but if it was in gear it would.

 

It has 5th gen rear cover and coil packs - very simple swap I cant imagine going through all the trouble to fab up the 4th gen cover and packs to fit when you could just use the 5th gen ones.

Im in VA and yes it runs great once its started. No other issues at all. Whats a stop canister? I had stephenmax fab up a bolck off plate for the stock 5th gen IACV and he also filled the area in with some sort of apoxy.


Sounds like there is something else going on. if your car is a 5spd then it doesnt matter if your in neutral or have the clutch in....then engine and the trans dont have a load on them so it shouldnt effect how the car idles.

 

I know this has been beaten to death. but has anyone figured out a way to get rid of the RPM cut of at 6500 other than a JWT ECU? I hate to through 600 bucks just to move this up....arg

 

Had my first cold start issue this morning. My mom called me at 7 and told me the car wouldnt start. I just told her to keep trying because its a common problem. Then she called me later and said her and my brother pushed the car a little down the driveway so it was on an incline and it started right up. The only thing I could think of was that the fuel pump wasnt getting gas to the engine correctly?

 

It is the little vacuum canister on the top of some 5th gen throttlebodies. Has a little rubber line and a brass colored canister. Some don't have it, however, including mine. I'm beginning to wonder if that has something to do with it (if people who don't have a canister are more likely to have the issue).

 

Where ya been for the last two years man?

Extra extra, read all about it - Emanage Ultimate...

 

Yeah ive read about it but dont have the time to dyno it and adjust it. this is my daily ride.

 

Well for a 4th gen ECU, those are your extended rev limit choices. JWT or EU. For the price you're going to pay, you're getting WAY more out of the EU. The only downside is the install itself, but I can understand some don't want to tackle that themselves.

But with the info in my writeup, and if needed a couple emails for help, you can do a rough street tune, add in about 6-8 degrees of timing and extend the rev limit, gain 10hp easily without spending a cent and more than an hour.

ANd any future mod you make in the future you can adjust for, you can dyno tune in the future if you have the time/cash... bottom line you're not stuck with a cookie cutter JWT solution that you can't change.