What I mostly need to know is what map sensor I should use to accomplish this. I don't know much about MAP sensors so any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I will be staying NA so no need to ever worry about getting something for boosted applications.

Thanks in advance,
Micah

 

The only way, so far, anyone has done this is by using Emanage Ultimate to replace the MAF, or wire in a stand alone.

 

I know. I have an EU I just need to know what sensor I should use so that I can do this. I remember a thread about it a while back but I couldn't find it. It showed what the numbers on the GM sensor meant, and helped decide which one would be good for a particular application.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...2em118Q2el1247

Im sure you could find it many places but this is just an example.

 

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=26

 

I wouldn't use a GM sensor, it doesn't show up properly (isn't programmed for the correct voltage curve). Choose an engine from the drop down list in the option port setup under Factory Pressure Sensor and get one off that car in a junkyard (eg lots of Honda engines in there...). But note that it's best to scavenge a car that was N/A from the factory, not turbo, so you don't end up with a 2 or 3 bar sensor.

As for your question about correcting for intake air temp, yes ultimately you'll need to confirm with the WB that you've got the correct adjustment. But as a starting point for entering the fuel adjustment numbers, I'd use the same percentage increase/decrease that you would see in air density for a given temp drop (we're assuming the altitude and baro pressure are about the same). There are online calculators that can help you do this, or else PM me if you're having trouble and I'll do some math for you.

Another thing to keep in mind is that it will work best to get the conversion map as close as possible and smooth everywhere first, AT ONE TEMPERATURE, or within a couple degrees of the same temperature, before programming the IAT map, so that the base map is correct before the global correction applied by the intake air temp map takes affect. Otherwise you'll be forever fiddling to get the AFR right on a given day with differing conditions from the day you first did the tune on. (The corollary to this is to pay attention to the intake air temps at the time you are doing the base map tuning, don't make adjustments unless you've stabilized at a relatively constant IAT).

 

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for you help Dan.

 

I've been looking at different honda MAP sensors on Ebay. I noticed they have two. One that sits on the firewall and one that sits on the Throttle body. Does it matter which one I get?

Also is there any advantage of getting one from a newer model as opposed to an older model car (other than the sensor being newer)?