maxgp1029

I was planning on doing the 3.5 swap this week because my 3.0 isn't really running anymore. The only problem is I'm on spring break this week and start school again next monday and will need a car. I tried getting the cam adapters, I wont be able to get them for about two weeks. If anybody knows the dimensions on the cam spacers including the whole dimensions for the dowel pin that would be great. I really would rather drop the 3.5 than a vq30dek.

maxgp1029

I know alot of people have the spacers, and I seen a thread about the dimensions but it was closed down due to how old it was. If I just brought the 3.0 cams and the 3.5 cams to a machine shop would they be able to make dimensions of the spacer by comparing the length of the cams?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Yup. The spacers are only needed to make up the difference in length. The harder part is dialing in the cam timing.

maxgp1029

Yea, everyones saying the dialing on the cam timing is the hardest part especially because we can't change it once the car is back together. I was reading Dandymax's post about the alternative to drilling the cams. He said to remove the old dowel and replace it with a longer dowel (obviously tho fit through the spacer), after this would you put the sub sprocket on backwards so it is a 180* change, or could you put it on the way it came off? Another question is do you do the same for the exhaust cam or do you just use the spacer?

maxgp1029

So I'm trying to get my car back together before the end of the week and it doesn't seem like its gonna happen. I got the 3.0 out of the car and need to make a decision on the engine swap. The only thing holding me back from getting a 3.5 is the cam timing situation. I want the cams to be set for more power through the top end. If anybody could tell me what to tell the machine shop to do that would help alot. I've done multiple hours of research but just can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Full intake cam retard with an operational CVTC system results in intake valve closing @ 64* after bottom dead center 2* of overlap. That would be great for top-end power from around 6200 RPM on up, but you would be missing out on power everywhere below that. To really take advantage of this you'd need a raised rev-limiter. If you want to go this route, it's as simple as drilling a slot in the intake cam gears 180* degrees from the stock slot and stick a spacer between the gear and cam. This is what dandymax did.

As for the exhaust cams, they just drop in. All you need to do is stick a spacer on the end of them.


Whatever you do, please remember to use the VQ30 cam dowel pins.

maxgp1029

I would really like to see the power around 5,000 rpm but its alright. So after I drill the whole into the 3.5 intake cam (180*) from the old whole, all I do is take the dowel out of the 3.0 cam and stick it into the the new whole on the 3.5 cam and leave the old dowel 180* from the new one in the cam? After just put everything back together with the marks on sprockets and color coated chains matching? Also when I bring the cams to the machine shop do I need to bring all 4 or 1 intake and 1 exhaust cam from each motor? Thanks for the time/help Nismology

nismology

iTrader: (8)

The beauty of what DandyMax did is that you don't have to drill the cams. So it really doesn't matter which cam you bring to the machine shop since the cam timing issue will be squared away. The only reason you'll need to bring them the cams is to determine how wide the spacers need to be. So bring one 3.0 cam and one 3.5 cam from the same cylinder bank. Can be intake or exhaust.

pic here of modified cam gear (Credit: DandyMax)

Just to be clear, the modification only needs to be done on both the main and secondary intake cam sprockets. The exhaust sprockets can be left alone.

maxgp1029

So after you make a new slot in the intake cams, dowel goes through the new slot? So in essence your turning the sprockets 180* instead of drilling the cams 180* from stock dowel placement.? Anyway is there any threads discussing different measurements for cam timing. I would like the power to be mid to high end starting around 4700 rpm.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Well, to be a little more specific, 180 + certain angle to achieve desired timing...

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Understood but I mentioned that the 180* thing would result in "fully retarded" cam timing.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

No need to touch the cams at all (I think you meant to say sprocket?) Yes you machine the inner and outer intake sprockets (add the slots at 180+advance angle), and then switch out the cam dowel for a longer one.

For timing with stock cams, as nismology said, the factory full retard setting will give you power past 6000 (the centerline is 125* ATDC). If you want to move the power lower then you need to advance the cam a few degrees. For a powerband that comes "on the cam" around 4500 to 5000 rpm but doesn't drop like a rock up high I'd probably go with a centerline around 118, 119... or about 6-8* of advance. Somewhere in that ballpark.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yes but I was replying to your statement that "that's what DandyMax did", as in drilling at 180. I did not keep fully retarded settings, therefore did not drill at 180, but a few degrees off. Yes I know, being picky.

maxgp1029

Is there a thread a bout how the angles are measured or what angle equals what timing?

maxgp1029

.....So what would I ad for an angle to 180*, for power to start @4,7oo rpm?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I've been wrong this whole time about your cam timing specs.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Stock retarded setting is a centerline of 125 as I mentioned (ie this is what you'll get if you drill exactly at 180). So my suggestion is to advance 6-8 degrees. That's crank degrees though so cut it in half to measure out on the cam sprocket, ie 180 + (3 to 4)*


Well SOMEBODY missed it because I've mentioned it wasn't 180 in a few places in a couple threads...

But I'll repeat it; I had the sprocket machined at 182*. Keep in mind my cams are not stock 3.5 (maybe you remembered that though... lol)

maxgp1029

[QUOTE=DandyMax;6322142]No need to touch the cams at all (I think you meant to say sprocket?) Yes you machine the inner and outer intake sprockets (add the slots at 180+advance angle), and then switch out the cam dowel for a longer one.

I'm confused with the re-installation of the intake cam sprockets. Do I put them on the exact same way they came off, or do i put them on rotated to the same degree of the new slots?