tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

Here's the setup:
a) 2003 6spd
b) New Nissan 6spd Slave Cylinder
c) SS clutch line from 4th gen master to slave
d) 6spd axles
e) 6spd starter
f) Fidanza 6spd flywheel w/ a bolt on a32-style ring (that I had made on a waterjet)
g) 2003 OEM Maxima Pressure Plate
h) A32 Exedy Stage I Disc

Everything is bolted up (aside from the tranny mount). Here are the issues in order of importance:

1) The clutch doesn't seem to be engaging. I fired the car up, put it in reverse, and tried to engage reverse, but nothing. (I'm not remembering this too clearly, but I don't think the car would stall either. It was perfectly happy idling in reverse.)

The hydraulics seem to be functioning perfectly, and there is no air in the line. Since I last tried to drive it, I've adjusted the clutch pedal, and I'll check it out after dinner.

2) The passenger's side axle leaks. It's a lot worse when the car is in the air than when on the ground, but still leaks a bit when on the ground. I am using the A33 axle bracket, but the axle just seems to be too short.

3) I can't seem to get the CPS sensor lined up perfectly, so the car is hard to start. (I had to relocate it closer to the driver's side, b/c the bolt on CPS Trigger Wheel is offset a bit relative to the stock location.

Any help---especially w/ Problem #1---would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

I just checked out the car, and it seems that even when the clutch pedal is all the way out, the slave cylinder doesn't retract enough to let the fork all the way back. I have to push on the end of the fork (and thereby shove in the slave cylinder) in order to get the fork all the way back.

So it seems that the slave cylinder won't retract all the way--what could cause this problem?

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

bump for help

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

Sounds to me like the clutch fork is not properly installed,. It needs to be clipped on to the brass ball in the bellhousing using a retainer clip that isn't bent or anything. You should be able to test that it is installed properly by removing the slave and trying to gently move the release fork around. If it moves easily in the direction the slave would push it or side to side at all you need to drop the tranny and inspect.

meximax

iTrader: (19)

I originally had similar problems with my setup. My fix was to purge (a lot) and then make a small adjustment on the clutch pedal. If that does not do it, then you are losing pressure somewhere along the way to your slave or your slave/master cylinders may have problems. However, a clutch adjustment should do the trick.

I have heard many talk about this, but it wasn't a problem in my setup. I simply bolted on the 6spd axles along with the A33 axle bracket. No short axles and no leaks. Reverify that the axle bracket is infact the A33. They are very similar to the A32 axle bracket, except that it has a bit offset.


This wasn't a problem for me. I just bolted it on and called it a day. All I can recommend is that you do it by trial and error, then tightening it down good once it starts.


Hope you are able to sort out all you issues. I am sure that you will quickly be enamored to the transmission.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

I am using an A32 bracket and I have full spline engagment. The axle seal is also riding on the smooth machined portion of the axle so I have no leaks.

If you are using an actual Nissan A33B 6MT RH axle, you will not have any problems using the A32 axle bearing hanger bracket.

I have found though that some of these aftermarket axle manufacturers (EMPI in particular) use common parts across several models to reduce inventory. This can make the axles a little longer or shorter than the OEM ones.

I originally bought an aftermarket RH axle and after measuring it I knew it was not going to work without even installing it. I returned that axle and picked up a Nissan one in decent shape from a wrecker for $50.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

I have an A33 bracket and an aftermarket axle, which is probably causing my problem. Thanks for the heads up.

Ah, so loss of pressure can cause the clutch not to engage too--I'll have to try purging more and adjusting the pedal then. (At one point I thought I had too much pressure, which was preventing the slave cylinder from contracting all the way, lol.)

In which direction did you adjust the pedal? I tried it both closer to the floor and farther from the floor, and I didn't notice a difference in slave cylinder movement (although I wasn't able to start the car to try driving at this point, b/c the starter was acting up.)

Thank you all for your help, and I'll keep you updated!

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

So, I tried removing the slave cylinder to see if the clutch would engage without it installed. Same problem...so it looks like I'm going to have to drop the transmission to see what's up.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

So, I have a feeling that my issues are somehow related to the pressure plate/clutch disk, but I came across a post about similar issues (what this guy called "constant neutral") and it turned out that one of his halfshafts was screwed up. Since he had an open diff, the good axle would stay still while the output to the other would spin freely:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13357

Could my issue be similar and caused by my short passenger axle, or would it show different symptoms on the Maxima?

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

Update--just checked the passenger's side axle, and it moves freely up and down (and side to side) in the output hole of the transmission, leading me to believe that no splines are catching. Damn!

If it's really the case that it's not catching at all, could this be causing my "constant neutral" symptoms?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Yes. Do you have an open diff, or an HLSD? With an open diff, all the power will go to the side with no splines engaged = not going anywhere.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

Open diff it is. That's a shame--there's no way I'm going to be able to get hold of an OEM axle before I have to go back to school.

Is there a way to test this theory out so that I can be sure that this "constant neutral" is due to the axle (and not the clutch)? (I could unbolt the axle from the hub and shove it into the tranny, but I'd risk f-ing up the axle and probably the hub too.)

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Jack the front of the car up, start it up, and put it in gear. The other side should start to spin, since it will not be under a load. You could also just pull that axle shaft out, start it up, put it in gear, and take a look in the hole for the spinning diff. It will be low on tranny fluid, but a 30 seconds to 1 minute it takes you to take a look is not going to damage anything.

tsaulz

iTrader: (36)

The car was jacked up when I was having this issue, and the driver's side wheel wasn't spinning; does this mean that my problem is due to the PP/disk and not the axle shaft?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Pull the loose axle shaft and actually check the diff for rotation. If it's not moving, then the axle shaft is not your primary problem.