Emanage Ultimate Hell
Emanage Ultimate Hell
I have had nothing but problems with all three of my emanage ultimate units! I am on my third unit, the first was immediately replaced under warranty as defective, the second was a Greddy reconditioned unit that still did not solve my problems and introduced more problems, and now the third unit has issues as well. Problems I have had so far:
1. I have a 99 so I needed to change the pin location for the crank REF sensor, changing this eliminated a check engine code.
2. I have had hesitation issues starting only at idle and progressively over a month or so been getting worse and started happening during various loads and RPM,
3. Code for P1336 for crank ref sensor and knock sensor malfunction. I checked the connectors and the sensors themselves and everything was in spec according to the FSM. But since my problems are intermittent I went ahead and replaced the knock sensor just to be safe.
4. Now that the sensors have been replaced I started the car and the codes were gone but now I have the code p1320 dealing with the ignition code since I have not installed the resistors, but that is not a concern. The car ran very well for 2 days, I was able to subtract fuel from my new 450cc injectors and everything was great.
5. The third day I could hardly start my car it was misfiring like crazy and had a random misfire code. I had to subtract almost 50% more fuel in order to get it to run. I checked the ignition coils individually and they all were sparking the spark plug. I also separated the ground points for the ECU and the injectors.
6. Currently I am going to switch back to the stock injectors and take the EU out of the loop to verify the problem is related to the unit.
All wiring connections are soldered and verified numerous times. I think my car and the e-manage hate each other and are just not going to work together. Does anyone see what I could be doing wrong to cause all these problems?
1. I have a 99 so I needed to change the pin location for the crank REF sensor, changing this eliminated a check engine code.
2. I have had hesitation issues starting only at idle and progressively over a month or so been getting worse and started happening during various loads and RPM,
3. Code for P1336 for crank ref sensor and knock sensor malfunction. I checked the connectors and the sensors themselves and everything was in spec according to the FSM. But since my problems are intermittent I went ahead and replaced the knock sensor just to be safe.
4. Now that the sensors have been replaced I started the car and the codes were gone but now I have the code p1320 dealing with the ignition code since I have not installed the resistors, but that is not a concern. The car ran very well for 2 days, I was able to subtract fuel from my new 450cc injectors and everything was great.
5. The third day I could hardly start my car it was misfiring like crazy and had a random misfire code. I had to subtract almost 50% more fuel in order to get it to run. I checked the ignition coils individually and they all were sparking the spark plug. I also separated the ground points for the ECU and the injectors.
6. Currently I am going to switch back to the stock injectors and take the EU out of the loop to verify the problem is related to the unit.
All wiring connections are soldered and verified numerous times. I think my car and the e-manage hate each other and are just not going to work together. Does anyone see what I could be doing wrong to cause all these problems?
Was this 3rd unit reconditioned as well?
I'm sure you're frustrated, but don't come to the conclusion that the EU won't work on your car - yours isn't different than other 99's out there from the factory and per the Wizard and others we know it will work. If it's not, there's a problem somewhere that just has to be tracked down via process of elimination.
I'm sure you're frustrated, but don't come to the conclusion that the EU won't work on your car - yours isn't different than other 99's out there from the factory and per the Wizard and others we know it will work. If it's not, there's a problem somewhere that just has to be tracked down via process of elimination.
Last edited by DandyMax; Apr 25, 2008 at 07:38 AM.
Vq20dek <--Same here.
Although Dan's write up worked perfect i DID have to install the resistors after i got the p1320 code. After that we tried to tune the car. For some reason the wideband keeps saying my a/f is in the 16s!. We opened a fresh new wideband and got the same a/f.
We added a little fuel and managed to bring the a/f down to low 15s <best we could>. And didnt bother messing with timing since we didnt want to push it yet, due to the fact that we didnt know why its running so lean.
Iam installing an LC-1 <tomorrow> that i will wire directly into the emu and see if this a/f is truely whats going on inside the motor.
Which i doubt since my car doesnt run hot or hesitate.
Side note: The 2 step sounds like $*** at rpms under 3k, and since i launch at 2k i removed it.
Although Dan's write up worked perfect i DID have to install the resistors after i got the p1320 code. After that we tried to tune the car. For some reason the wideband keeps saying my a/f is in the 16s!. We opened a fresh new wideband and got the same a/f.
We added a little fuel and managed to bring the a/f down to low 15s <best we could>. And didnt bother messing with timing since we didnt want to push it yet, due to the fact that we didnt know why its running so lean.
Iam installing an LC-1 <tomorrow> that i will wire directly into the emu and see if this a/f is truely whats going on inside the motor.
Which i doubt since my car doesnt run hot or hesitate.
Side note: The 2 step sounds like $*** at rpms under 3k, and since i launch at 2k i removed it.
Last edited by RacerX1320; May 1, 2008 at 09:39 PM.
i recently ran into high afr,s like 16:1 at idle. so i figured it was a injector or a plug. turns out that my egr plug that i did when i did the 00vi swap is leaking so that probley is the explination for the high afr. so i would check for a leak somewhere in your exuast
The lc-1 came back as the same a/f's from before so i ordered a new Walboro fuel pump and will probably change my fuel filter while im there. Ill probably check for an exhaust leak also but i doubt theres a leak. The a/f was reading the same when we started the project and AFTER we put the Cattman headers on. So if there IS a leak it must be after the Y pipe section.
*Weird thing is, the car isnt running hot or hesitating under any circumstances. Its running pretty strong if you ask me. And the exhaust sonuds perfect. At idle the a/f is in the 14s then goes all crazy once i go full throttle.
*Weird thing is, the car isnt running hot or hesitating under any circumstances. Its running pretty strong if you ask me. And the exhaust sonuds perfect. At idle the a/f is in the 14s then goes all crazy once i go full throttle.
Last edited by RacerX1320; May 4, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
^^^ usually anywhere from 15:2 all the way to 16:2. Durring idle its at 14:2. One time at a stop light under wot in first gear it went into the 11's a/f. I ordered the walboro but after readin this thread i think ill really search for a leak. Must be somewhere from after the y to the muffler since thats the only part that wasnt changed recently. And the car was doing it before and after we did the Headers.
I had to take a break from the maxima project for a while and work on another project, but now i am going back to add the resistor and see how that works. I have a question about the location of the e-manage ground, the injector ground and the ground for the added resistors: would it be acceptable for me to ground all three to a ground location like a bolt on the frame or would that cause problems? I would prefer to change my ground tie in location from the current position on the stock ecu ground to a separate ground all together.
Also, the third unit was as new as I could possibility get, Greddy was out of stock during my problem, which is the reason for me receiving a reconditioned unit. So, once they received the new shipment from Japan my e-manage was from that shipment, the newest version, which I confirmed by checking the circuit board.
New Walboro and oem fuel filter change going in tomorrow as well as the search for the leak. Installing my grounding kit as well. Hopefully this cures this annoying issue so i can FULLY tune the car and raise redline.
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