So I got the EMU in and working. Now, I have some questions and problems. First off, my VQ35 is on 3.0 timing and the 3.0 ECU. In the EMU vehicle settings, should it be set to vq30det or vq35de? I have set to the 3.0 because of the ecu and timing. Anyways, it all runs but very sluggishly. It runs like the car did with the 3.0 in it. I had my buddy view the data logs during a few WOT runs and noticed the injectors rated 18+. I don't understand this because I have not touched one setting yet. The other thing I noticed was the throttle position under the throttle tab. The best I could get on it was 3.96 and it read 5% throttle with the car off. If anyone can help that would be great. I don't know who is running the EMU with the swap either. I have been talking with DandyMax but he has been offline for awhile, so ya'll are my best bet.
Thanks in advance,
Zack

 

well the max voltage i get at 100 percent is like 4.12v so i think you might have to readjust.

by saying the injectors are at 18 what do you mean? there at 18ms at wot or 18dc at wot or is the the inj adjustment +18%??? if you inj adjustment is +18% then you are running way to rich. you are probley already running pretty rich especially if your running 3.5 fuel system. since the 3.0 ecu is thinking you have stock 3.0 injectors in.

Did you by chance hook up your knock sensor when you installed. i did that and it pretty much didnt acknoledge that my knock sensor wasnt even there. making me run sluggish. And i only tapped it

get a hold of the wizard he would know alot more than i would.

 

What did you choose to data log; duration or duty cycle?

Manually set the tps settings so it is more accurate, but this is not a HUGE deal. Make a new file and make sure the under Unit - Injectors, that duration is selected. In the vehicle settings, make sure VQ30DET is selected and that the RPM type is crank angle.

 

I've been wondering this very same question.

mastercater7: did you use the vq30det but change the setting to better match the 3.5? like displacement?

 

also make sure that all your firmware and updated are current.

i seriously want to say that you hooked up your knock sensor to the eu causeing the sensor not to work. therefore causeing a i\j adjustment with out you even touching it. but im not to positive if a bad\non working ks would cause it to retard timing and add fuel. or would it just retard timing??

on top of that verify that all your jumpers are set correctly

 

My injector Input and Output durations were 18ms and up while at WOT. The knock sensor was not spliced, rather tapped. Should I un tap it? I chose water and intake temp. I thought it possibly was the knock sensor. Ugh ill update once I get the laptop goin.
Thanks,
Zack

 

yes that is your problem i belive. i only had mine tapped and it threw the code. and or try going into parameters, ch setting, and under knock sensor try switching it to not used. if that doesnt work then un tap it.

and a fyi
at wot at any given gear im at around 12ms un corrected with dek injectors on a a32 ecu.

 

Ya i figured it may be the knock sensor. I got the a/f sensor bung welded in today so hopefully I can fine tune it for the 100 shot as well. Ill get back to yall about the knock sensor.

 

I replied to your email just now...

 

So I unplugged the EU from the knock sensor. I had a knock sensor code and cleared it. It hasnt came back but my injectors are still at 16ms during WOT

 

so is it still feel like its running slugish or has it improved? i figured it was throwing a code just like mine did. i still couldnt tell you why your running 16ms during wot. you need to hook up your wb and auto tune and hopefully that will help.

the injectors for a 3.5 is fbj1000 correct??

out of curiosity what did dandy say about it??

 

what confuses me is that the car should start up and run as if the emanage wasnt even installed, as it should not be changing any injector rates (or anything for that matter) unless it was told to do so.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/3637774-post35.html

 

^^ thanks for the clarification. i couldnt find that thread. so in reality he would be running even more rich than running dek injectors on the a32 ecu if he were running at 3.5bar.

yes it should run like stock or close to it. but considering he has a 3.5 swap on a a32 ecu its tuned for a32 injectors and not for the 3.5 so he is going to run rich.

master need a update stat!!!

 

Yea what I meant is it should run exactly as it did before the EU install if no tables were modified..

 

Ok so I am in a world of confusion and frustration. I think I almost blew the motor twice today due to sudden lean spikes. The knock code has not come back, which is the only plus side to things. I am still dumping 18 and sometimes spiking 19ms during the data logging. I have the Innovate LC-1 with the digital gauge all wired up. Here begins the confusion... My gauge and the EMU are reading different things. For example, the EMU will read 8.9 while my A/F gauge will read 14.8. This is strange because I have done everything to the instructions and Dandy's writeup. Because the car was still sluggish I decided to try the auto tune feature. I opened up my I/J ADJ. Map 1 and watched it work after setting the A/F Target Map to 13.0 all around just to get it close enough for now. It got better and better until I thought it was done. I had been doing all my WOT pulls in second gear, and sometimes into third as well. I nailed it in first and it was great; however, I hadn't turned off autotune and everything went sluggish and the car was worse than before. I then cleared everything back to 0.0 in the I/J Map in hopes I could just do it over again. While I was attempting to tune it again, I spiked a 17.8! The car immediately slowed and I put it in neutral and coasted. On the way home I had the autotune feature off and hit the gas. The A/F gauge spiked a 21.4! The motor stalled and turned back on. The only items changing in my I/J Map are at 90% and 100% throttle. The readings for what the EMU is trying to change goes like this, starting at 3000 rpms and rising is 500 rpm increments. 90% : -2.0, -11.0, -33.0, -53.5, -63.0, -67.0, -66.0, and ending at -32.5 at 6500 rpms. 100% : -2.0, -10.5, -32.0, -53.0, -63.0, -67.0, -65.5, and ending at -32.0 at 6500 rpms. Someone please help me. I am confused as all hell about this. The lowest my I/J duration got to was 15ms during the datalogging.

 

did you calibrate your lc-1 correctly? did you do a fresh air calibration? it sounds like it has something to do with your lc-1. maybe a wiring issue one would belive.

 

He has had a couple wiring issues to sort out, they are being worked through.

 

and i mentioned to him the problems that you (locknuts) and I both had when we were trying to use duration to tune, but when using duty cycle it was working fine

 

^^ yeah that could be one of his problems as well i didnt even think of that. but as dandy said if he has wiring issues they defently need to be addressed first. it almost sounds like he has one of his injectors mis matched or something.

 

Checked all wiring and it all checked out. The only wiring issue I had was the EMU and A/F wiring. I fixed it all, and it still reads a different A/F ratio than my gauge. I think the EMU may be faulty since it changed my maps before I touched it, wont read my A/F gauge, and is having serious problems auto tuning. Thoughts?

 

Give Greddy a call and tell them all the problems your having. i doubt (well i would sure hope) the EMU would have gone bad as it just came out of my car a few weeks ago and was working fine. Greddy was pretty helpful for me so its worth a try

 

(and the KS wiring)...

Did you try uninstalling and going back to v2.00, making sure the firmware and software are fully synced?

Also, in the WB setup, instead of picking Innovative, try inputting the ranges yourself with a non-default selection.

Email me your EM2 file and I'll take a look at it...

 

I didnt list the KS wiring because that had already been dealt with

 

Any updates Zack, still having problems?

 

Yes, new problems man. Ill give yall both a call tomorrow. Im also calling greddy about getting this unit warrantied.
Zack

 

how goes the battle Zack?

 

not good, Greddy will not return my calls or emails. I am very unhappy with their customer service. I cannot go WOT until this is worked out.
Zack

 

Ok, so I had everything tuned great using duty cycle. Now I decided to raise the rev limiter. For some reason, anything I type in the duration maps does nothing if im telling it to take away fuel. It adds it easy and does go to 7400 but the injectors are runnin low 20s (ms) at full throttle when I hit 5k rpms and it goes higher and higher until the I/J inputs drop to .6 (after the stock cut). Then when I let off the gas my A/F drops to a dammed 7.4!!!! What the hell is going on!?!?

 

bump!!!!!

 

bump!!!!! anyone?

 

Any update Zack since we talked?

 

The EMU wont let me downgrade to anything less than 2.16

 

is it possible to hard reset it and clean out the memory in the unit?

 

I do not know, but i would love to know how to do that

 

Hmm, once again something new I've learned about 2.16... it gives you some kind of error message I presume?

Did you try manually doing a Main Unit Update from the Communication menu and pulling the gsc02.p file across yourself?

 

I went back from 2.16. I bet you are not updating the unit correctly.

 

I have a suspicion the reason it wont go back is because my laptop is using vista. When I downgrade on the laptop and go out to the car it just flashes online and offline and it asks me if I want to "communicate with main unit in real time" over and over again. As in, no matter how many times I click ok, it just pops up again.
Zack