'00VI Swap Information
10-10-2008, 06:52 PM
#1
'00VI Swap Information
Hey guys, I'm planning on doing the '00VI swap and gathered a lot of information. There are a few problems I ran into in planning and thought I would post it here along with all the information I have gathered as well to help others.
Most of it is labeled. Remove all the extra hoses at top.
The VIAS runs to an fresh air source (ie: intake)
Swirl Control Valve - does nothing. I don't have the butterfly plates in the LIM.
VIAS solenoid connects to my RPM switch. Red w/ Yellow = Positive. Yellow w/ Green = Negative
Replace the '00 TPS and use 4th gen [Link]
Remove the plug in the IACV and modify 4th gen to fit inside here. [post 15 & 16]
Block off the coolent lines.
*Remove IACV if you plan on using the 4th gen adapter plate. Must make custom blockoff plate if you go this route. Also note, if blockoff plate is too thin, must replace stock screw with shorter hex head bolts with washer to clear the 4 throttle body bolts.
Replace the sensor part with 4th gen. EGR temp sensor.
Well first I need to splice all the injectors and connect them to my stock setup. The wiring matches to the 4th gen originial ones.
Run old fuel line to new fuel rail with a fuel adapter. Weapon R makes some. They're labeled for 2.0 but they fit our.
Left side goes to front valve cover.
Right side goes to upper intake manifold.
Most of it is labeled. Remove all the extra hoses at top.
The VIAS runs to an fresh air source (ie: intake)
Swirl Control Valve - does nothing. I don't have the butterfly plates in the LIM.
VIAS solenoid connects to my RPM switch. Red w/ Yellow = Positive. Yellow w/ Green = Negative
Replace the '00 TPS and use 4th gen [Link]
Remove the plug in the IACV and modify 4th gen to fit inside here. [post 15 & 16]
Block off the coolent lines.
*Remove IACV if you plan on using the 4th gen adapter plate. Must make custom blockoff plate if you go this route. Also note, if blockoff plate is too thin, must replace stock screw with shorter hex head bolts with washer to clear the 4 throttle body bolts.
Replace the sensor part with 4th gen. EGR temp sensor.
Well first I need to splice all the injectors and connect them to my stock setup. The wiring matches to the 4th gen originial ones.
Run old fuel line to new fuel rail with a fuel adapter. Weapon R makes some. They're labeled for 2.0 but they fit our.
Left side goes to front valve cover.
Right side goes to upper intake manifold.
Last edited by aznprid972; 11-12-2008 at 02:04 PM.
10-11-2008, 06:18 PM
#3
for the top pic, you can do whatever you want with the vacuum lines. All you need to do is make sure that everything on your car needing vacuum is hooked up to the UIM somewhere. Doesn't matter where, basically do whatever works for your setup. If there are any un-used vacuum nipples on the UIM, plug them, you don't want vacuum leak.
throttle body pic is correct. if you plan on using that IACV and not the 4th gen one, you're gonna have to move/get rid of the "vacuum gallery." I had the iacv removed and still had to bend the gallery down a little bit....
EGR pic is correct.
LIM pic...the rear FPR has to be removed and replaced with an adapter like the one you posted. the rear line is a return line, it runs excess fuel back to the tank...so no, don't hook it up to the UIM. and yes, the front FPR needs vacuum to the little line on top.
on the valve cover, they are both he same as stock...just positioned a little differently.
probably got no love from the org because you didn't search! if you look thru the stickies and search you'll find GOBS of info on 00vi swaps. There was enough info that I never had to ask a single question when doing mine.
throttle body pic is correct. if you plan on using that IACV and not the 4th gen one, you're gonna have to move/get rid of the "vacuum gallery." I had the iacv removed and still had to bend the gallery down a little bit....
EGR pic is correct.
LIM pic...the rear FPR has to be removed and replaced with an adapter like the one you posted. the rear line is a return line, it runs excess fuel back to the tank...so no, don't hook it up to the UIM. and yes, the front FPR needs vacuum to the little line on top.
on the valve cover, they are both he same as stock...just positioned a little differently.
probably got no love from the org because you didn't search! if you look thru the stickies and search you'll find GOBS of info on 00vi swaps. There was enough info that I never had to ask a single question when doing mine.
10-11-2008, 07:01 PM
#4
throttle body pic is correct. if you plan on using that IACV and not the 4th gen one, you're gonna have to move/get rid of the "vacuum gallery." I had the iacv removed and still had to bend the gallery down a little bit....
LIM pic...the rear FPR has to be removed and replaced with an adapter like the one you posted. the rear line is a return line, it runs excess fuel back to the tank...so no, don't hook it up to the UIM. and yes, the front FPR needs vacuum to the little line on top.
probably got no love from the org because you didn't search! if you look thru the stickies and search you'll find GOBS of info on 00vi swaps. There was enough info that I never had to ask a single question when doing mine.
Last edited by aznprid972; 10-11-2008 at 08:13 PM.
10-12-2008, 10:21 PM
#8
When I say "my thread" look at this
Alright lets see here:
Pic 1: Remove all of those hoses. Then use my thread for the referrence to the vacuum hose routing.
Pic 2: TPS; yes use your a32. IACV, yes modify it like that. Coolant; block it off. It makes for less headaches in the future.
Pic 3: Use your 4th gen sensor.
Pic 4: Yes, to vacuum sources.
Pic 5: The right port is your PCV. It goes to a vacuum source. Left port goes to the front valve cover, which you will see clearly when youre doing the swap. Pictures in my thread if you need some.
Hope between mowgli and I we cleared it up.
Alright lets see here:
Pic 1: Remove all of those hoses. Then use my thread for the referrence to the vacuum hose routing.
Pic 2: TPS; yes use your a32. IACV, yes modify it like that. Coolant; block it off. It makes for less headaches in the future.
Pic 3: Use your 4th gen sensor.
Pic 4: Yes, to vacuum sources.
Pic 5: The right port is your PCV. It goes to a vacuum source. Left port goes to the front valve cover, which you will see clearly when youre doing the swap. Pictures in my thread if you need some.
Hope between mowgli and I we cleared it up.
10-12-2008, 11:20 PM
#9
Thank you MOHFpro90. The throttle body part was confusing me for the longest time and since you said just block it off, it is one less thing for me to worry about.
On the fuel rail part, is the top picture in the first post correct or can I run it like this?
Wouldn't this work?
I can connect the stock fuel line to the new one with this type of adapter
On the fuel rail part, is the top picture in the first post correct or can I run it like this?
Wouldn't this work?
I can connect the stock fuel line to the new one with this type of adapter
10-13-2008, 08:59 AM
#10
here's a pic of my setup. The adapter I made on the front of the fuel rail was part of a vq40 fuel rail. I cut it off, flared the end, and bolted it on. Its the same thing as the ones you can buy, I just didn't want to buy one.
as you can see, you are only supposed to have the FPR in the rear. I don't know what the consequences of using both would be, but IMO, just do it right the first time.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...I/IMG_0195.jpg
also, I know people have been guilty of not running vacuum to the fpr. probably not a huge deal, but since the FPR is designed to increase fuel pressure as the vacuum lessens, you'd be running about 5psi higher than you should. but it's not gradual, rather, it's like an on/off switch. vacuum=Xpsi no vacuum=(X+5)psi
as you can see, you are only supposed to have the FPR in the rear. I don't know what the consequences of using both would be, but IMO, just do it right the first time.
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...I/IMG_0195.jpg
also, I know people have been guilty of not running vacuum to the fpr. probably not a huge deal, but since the FPR is designed to increase fuel pressure as the vacuum lessens, you'd be running about 5psi higher than you should. but it's not gradual, rather, it's like an on/off switch. vacuum=Xpsi no vacuum=(X+5)psi
Last edited by mowgli29; 10-13-2008 at 09:19 AM.
10-13-2008, 11:58 AM
#11
Np man, we're here to help.
Mowgli, not connecting the FPR to a vacuum source is basically dumping more fuel in, isnt it? There are plenty of vacuum sources, from what I understand it would be foolish not too.
Mowgli, not connecting the FPR to a vacuum source is basically dumping more fuel in, isnt it? There are plenty of vacuum sources, from what I understand it would be foolish not too.
10-13-2008, 12:06 PM
#12
exactly. I'm wondering if the ECU might be smart enough to see the rich a/f and remove some fuel to compensate for the increased pressure....but you might as well just give the fpr some vacuum so you KNOW you're not running rich.
10-13-2008, 12:09 PM
#13
mowgli29 - So you removed the hard lines at the top and just ran your vacuum for the FPR to the vacuum gallery instead? That would be one less hose to run. Just put a cap on the top of the UIM.
If I were to go with the first pic, I would just be removing the fuel damper on the 5th gen fuel rail correct? We already have a fuel damper built somewhere in our system so there's no need to have two of them.
If I were to go with the first pic, I would just be removing the fuel damper on the 5th gen fuel rail correct? We already have a fuel damper built somewhere in our system so there's no need to have two of them.
10-13-2008, 12:14 PM
#14
mowgli29 - So you removed the hard lines at the top and just ran your vacuum for the FPR to the vacuum gallery instead? That would be one less hose to run. Just put a cap on the top of the UIM.
If I were to go with the first pic, I would just be removing the fuel damper on the 5th gen fuel rail correct? We already have a fuel damper built somewhere in our system so there's no need to have two of them.
If I were to go with the first pic, I would just be removing the fuel damper on the 5th gen fuel rail correct? We already have a fuel damper built somewhere in our system so there's no need to have two of them.
Even if there's not room for it, you can just get a little plastic "T" adapter. In some areas I disregarded what it was like stock (because I couldn't remember) and just made sure everything that needed vacuum had it.
as for the 5th gen rail, yes, remove the front one. but I think both of those are fprs. dampers usually look different than that, and I asked my dad (nissan tech) who said they both looked like FPRs, not dampers. just FYI.
(after looking at ajcool's setup, it looks like he left both FPR's intact and I know he's been running like that a while...maybe it's ok to leave them both
)
10-13-2008, 12:18 PM
#15
I also noticed that on the hard line, there is a tap for the fuel vacuum. Couldn't I run this setup and keep the hard line in place? The top one is for the FPR and the second one to the vacuum gallery.
10-13-2008, 12:20 PM
#16
you may not need to run it down to the vacuum gallery though. just post if you have questions when you get there.
Last edited by mowgli29; 10-13-2008 at 12:26 PM.
10-16-2008, 05:11 PM
#17
Alright, since I got some more time on my hands today, I took a look at my stock 4th gen throttle body. I noticed there were 3 hoses connecting to it underneath the throttle body where as the 5th gen only has 2. On the 4th gen, 2 are for coolent, but what's the 3rd one for?
And also, why not just use the coolent in/out instead of bypassing it and blocking it off on the 5th gen tb as what MOHFpro90 stated. I'm just curious?
And also, why not just use the coolent in/out instead of bypassing it and blocking it off on the 5th gen tb as what MOHFpro90 stated. I'm just curious?
10-16-2008, 05:19 PM
#19
Thanks mowgli29 for the fast response. One last question for now... on Tatanko's website, on the UIM, he labeled these two nipples as EVAP and a remote location for the 4th gen IACV. What would I run here when I'm running the 5th gen IACV? And where is my stock EVAP? Hopefully after all these questions are answered, that would be the last of my worries. Thank you guys in advance!
10-16-2008, 05:34 PM
#20
I have both of those blocked off with little rubber caps...but that's just because I don't have my EVAP hooked up right now. Once I get around to fixing that, I'll most likely use one of those for EVAP. I think the stock EVAP nipple is somewhere on the rear/bottom of the USIM, I don't really remember though 
OH, and if you're using the 4th gen IACV, which IMO is the ONLY way to go...you should do this:http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=IMG_0200.jpg
basically you need a much bigger nipple than any of the one on the 00VI. those tiny nipples CAN't flow enough air for the engine to idle properly. you'll have cold start issuse and it will always idle low, and it won't compensate for a/c or powersteering like it should. put a much bigger nipple in the 00VI and the 4th gen IACV adapter and run some huge hose. it'll idle like stock.
OH, and if you're using the 4th gen IACV, which IMO is the ONLY way to go...you should do this:http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=IMG_0200.jpg
basically you need a much bigger nipple than any of the one on the 00VI. those tiny nipples CAN't flow enough air for the engine to idle properly. you'll have cold start issuse and it will always idle low, and it won't compensate for a/c or powersteering like it should. put a much bigger nipple in the 00VI and the 4th gen IACV adapter and run some huge hose. it'll idle like stock.
Last edited by mowgli29; 10-16-2008 at 05:38 PM.
10-16-2008, 08:32 PM
#21
Oh, icic... I saw your post on it somewhere saying how you finally found the "perfect" solution for all the 00vi people. I guess it's just about time to start ordering those missing parts.
4th gen IACV adapter [sicivic89]
Fuel adapter [Weapon R]
1x Upper IM gasket part #14033-2Y901 (rubber gasket)
2x Lower IM gasket part #14035-38U01 (metal gasket)
misc hoses
Am I missing anything else? I have an RPM switch already. Would I need the rear valve cover gasket as well or can I just reuse it?
4th gen IACV adapter [sicivic89]
Fuel adapter [Weapon R]
1x Upper IM gasket part #14033-2Y901 (rubber gasket)
2x Lower IM gasket part #14035-38U01 (metal gasket)
misc hoses
Am I missing anything else? I have an RPM switch already. Would I need the rear valve cover gasket as well or can I just reuse it?
10-16-2008, 08:42 PM
#22
you might want to invest in an IACV gasket and a TB gasket. check out courtesyparts.com for the part numbers.
I'd get some jbkwik (or jbweld), it can be a life saver sometimes, and you never know when you may need it.
for the rear VC, i re-used mine, but I had one from an 00. and, I don't know that it's not leaking, it very well could be by now....are you using an 00-01 rear VC? in either case, it's recommended to replace it while you can. it would be a bigger pain to have to undo the entire intake just to raplce that damn gasket.
yes, hoses, and lots of them. get all the sizes you need and just get several feet of each. you may need more of one size than another. and get some tees. like a vacuum "T" so that you can have two things get vacuum from one source...
that's all I can think of for now.
I'd get some jbkwik (or jbweld), it can be a life saver sometimes, and you never know when you may need it.
for the rear VC, i re-used mine, but I had one from an 00. and, I don't know that it's not leaking, it very well could be by now....are you using an 00-01 rear VC? in either case, it's recommended to replace it while you can. it would be a bigger pain to have to undo the entire intake just to raplce that damn gasket.
yes, hoses, and lots of them. get all the sizes you need and just get several feet of each. you may need more of one size than another. and get some tees. like a vacuum "T" so that you can have two things get vacuum from one source...
that's all I can think of for now.
10-16-2008, 08:51 PM
#23
I'll look up those parts number later and post back for anyone in case they needed it.
Yes, there was a prevention thing to the VIAS cup by JBWelding it down so it won't break and not open up the valve. I'll pick up some JBWeld and do that first since I have to wait for stuff to come in [link].
Yes I am planning on using a 00-01 rear valve cover. I will replace them if it is recommended to.
There is an O'Rielly's and Autozone within 2 miles of my house. I can probably pick up some hoses and vacuum T's there.
Thanks mowgli29!
Yes, there was a prevention thing to the VIAS cup by JBWelding it down so it won't break and not open up the valve. I'll pick up some JBWeld and do that first since I have to wait for stuff to come in [link].
Yes I am planning on using a 00-01 rear valve cover. I will replace them if it is recommended to.
There is an O'Rielly's and Autozone within 2 miles of my house. I can probably pick up some hoses and vacuum T's there.
Thanks mowgli29!
10-23-2008, 07:39 PM
#24
Whoohoo.. my presents came in!
I noticed the fuel adapter didn't have a rubber oring on it. I'm guessing I should take the stock one off the fuel damper and place it on here?
I noticed the fuel adapter didn't have a rubber oring on it. I'm guessing I should take the stock one off the fuel damper and place it on here?
10-29-2008, 04:09 PM
#26
Thanks man. I saw your post on not using the 4th gen FPR. Thanks for the tip. I'm planning on starting it this week so I'll let you guys know if I run into any problems along the way. I'm hoping not as things should be labeled out so far at all the above posts.
I made a block off plate for the IACV to use the 5th gen throttle body.
Attached the fuel adapter to the fuel rail and put some Hondabond HT for extra measures.
I tested the injectors and all read 14.6-14.7 ohms so I'm guessing they're all good.
I still want to test the coil packs resistance.
Is it recommended to dip the injectors in Cheveron Fuel Injector Cleaner to clean the nozzles?
And I still need to do the JB Weld trick for the VIAS cup.
I made a block off plate for the IACV to use the 5th gen throttle body.
Attached the fuel adapter to the fuel rail and put some Hondabond HT for extra measures.
I tested the injectors and all read 14.6-14.7 ohms so I'm guessing they're all good.
I still want to test the coil packs resistance.
Is it recommended to dip the injectors in Cheveron Fuel Injector Cleaner to clean the nozzles?
And I still need to do the JB Weld trick for the VIAS cup.
10-29-2008, 05:01 PM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 29
I wanted to make sure everything was cool for a couple weeks before I posted this info, but recently I performed a dek swap on my max. Went through all the threads I could find and all info needed until I got to a few steps which made me wonder why. For my injector harness instead of cutting and splicing wires why not just switch the wires from the harnesses the pins on them are identical making no need to worry about resistance in the wires from a bad splice job. And second why are people buying these fuel line adapters the stock fuel line already has a barbed end on the end of the hardline. All you do is cut the metal band(I used a dremel) off and pull the hose off. Just some food for thought.
10-29-2008, 05:20 PM
#28
I wanted to make sure everything was cool for a couple weeks before I posted this info, but recently I performed a dek swap on my max. Went through all the threads I could find and all info needed until I got to a few steps which made me wonder why. For my injector harness instead of cutting and splicing wires why not just switch the wires from the harnesses the pins on them are identical making no need to worry about resistance in the wires from a bad splice job. And second why are people buying these fuel line adapters the stock fuel line already has a barbed end on the end of the hardline. All you do is cut the metal band(I used a dremel) off and pull the hose off. Just some food for thought.
As for the fuel adapter, I guess that could work but I went ahead and got the adapter anyways.
10-29-2008, 06:43 PM
#30
Interesting, I gotta take a look at them again. I couldn't pull the harness off the injectors for some reason. I know you press the green part down in the middle and then pull the whole thing out the opposite way but still, I felt as if it was going to break.
If it's going to be a pita taking all 12 injectors off, then I might as well cut and splice unless there's a trick in removing the harness.
If it's going to be a pita taking all 12 injectors off, then I might as well cut and splice unless there's a trick in removing the harness.
10-29-2008, 07:51 PM
#31
I also never understood the fuel rail adapter thing. On all of the 00vi's i got from the junkyard i made sure to cut the hose from the fuel dampener at the very end so it would fit. If I forgot to do it I was going to do what sinrgsx did.
10-29-2008, 07:54 PM
#32
Courtesy Nissan Parts Number:
Upper Intake Manifold gasket - #14033-A33B005
Lower Intake Manifold gasket* - #14035-A33B004
Rear Valve Cover gasket - #13270-A33B001
Throttle Body gasket - #16175-A33B004 <-- (between UIM & intake adapter)
Throttle Body gasket - #16175-A33B005 <-- (between intake adapter & throttle body)
EGR Guide Tube gasket - #14722-A33B003 <-- (between UIM & EGR guide tube)
EGR Tube gasket - #14722-A33B002 <-- (between EGR tube & EGR system)
IACV gasket - #16618-A33B007
*On the LIM gasket, you need TWO of them
Top 3 is highly recommended and I guess the rest is optional.
Actual Nissan Dealer Parts Number:
Upper Intake Manifold gasket - #14033-2Y901
Lower Intake Manifold gasket* - #14035-38U01
EGR Tube gasket - #14722-38U02 <-- (between EGR tube & EGR system)
Upper Intake Manifold gasket - #14033-A33B005
Lower Intake Manifold gasket* - #14035-A33B004
Rear Valve Cover gasket - #13270-A33B001
Throttle Body gasket - #16175-A33B004 <-- (between UIM & intake adapter)
Throttle Body gasket - #16175-A33B005 <-- (between intake adapter & throttle body)
EGR Guide Tube gasket - #14722-A33B003 <-- (between UIM & EGR guide tube)
EGR Tube gasket - #14722-A33B002 <-- (between EGR tube & EGR system)
IACV gasket - #16618-A33B007
*On the LIM gasket, you need TWO of them
Top 3 is highly recommended and I guess the rest is optional.
Actual Nissan Dealer Parts Number:
Upper Intake Manifold gasket - #14033-2Y901
Lower Intake Manifold gasket* - #14035-38U01
EGR Tube gasket - #14722-38U02 <-- (between EGR tube & EGR system)
Last edited by aznprid972; 11-12-2008 at 02:37 PM.
10-29-2008, 08:24 PM
#33
Here's a pic of my fuel adapter in place:
I think sinrgsx method would be to cut right here?:
[edit]... nope he didn't do this. Ignore this pic.
I think sinrgsx method would be to cut right here?:
[edit]... nope he didn't do this. Ignore this pic.
Last edited by aznprid972; 10-30-2008 at 02:52 PM.
10-29-2008, 08:27 PM
#34
Pic of my custom adapter plate so I can delete the 5th gen IACV on the throttle body.
Somebody should CNC these.
It'll save us the time in going out and finding a metal sheet, cut and grind and hoping it doesnt bend/warp in the process.
***NEW***
Had to use shorter hex bolts with washers so there will be room for the 4 throttle body bolts to pass though.
Somebody should CNC these.
It'll save us the time in going out and finding a metal sheet, cut and grind and hoping it doesnt bend/warp in the process.***NEW***
Had to use shorter hex bolts with washers so there will be room for the 4 throttle body bolts to pass though.
Last edited by aznprid972; 11-12-2008 at 02:08 PM.
10-29-2008, 09:07 PM
#36
mowgli29 has pointed out that it was a better way in going this route instead of having the 5th gen IACV. I was planning on using the 5th gen IACV originally but he convinced me.
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
Last edited by aznprid972; 10-29-2008 at 09:11 PM.
10-29-2008, 09:23 PM
#37
mowgli29 has pointed out that it was a better way in going this route instead of having the 5th gen IACV. I was planning on using the 5th gen IACV originally but he convinced me.
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
10-29-2008, 11:36 PM
#38
I should be starting tomorrow... hopefully. Just need to make a trip to Nissan for the gaskets and OReilly's/Autozone for the various vacuum hoses and T-taps if needed. Plus I need to find a place that carries the threaded nipple so I can drill in the UIM near the throttle body for the 4th gen IACV adapter plate.
I'm hoping all this prep. work and research will pay off and it'll be an easy install.
I'm hoping all this prep. work and research will pay off and it'll be an easy install.
10-30-2008, 10:59 AM
#39
mowgli29 has pointed out that it was a better way in going this route instead of having the 5th gen IACV. I was planning on using the 5th gen IACV originally but he convinced me.
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6653220-post100.html
10-30-2008, 11:10 AM
#40
and what's up?! Sorry I haven't visited the thread recently, but it looks like you're making good progress! what else is left to do?
EDIT: doh, just noticed you already said what's left....but yeah, your approach should help you alot. it's good to go into the swap knowing everything you can. That's what i did and I had 0 troubles. it took me a couple days to do the swap, but at least it worked when I finished!
Last edited by mowgli29; 10-30-2008 at 11:21 AM.