3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
#1081
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Aaron, koni makes strut inserts that are top adjustable. The shocks you are referring to are typically for the rear. I'm taking a guess at this, but I imagine, the only concern you have in drag racing is rebound. Slowing the progression of how fast a shock extends. Keeping the tires down. Rebound also slows the weight transfer when a car enters a turn.
ERS springs are the best way to fine tune your set up
ERS springs are the best way to fine tune your set up
Thanks.
Oh cool. So Cipher will connect to the 5.5 gen ECU. But do you know if you can change anything such as the speed limiter? Or is it just an OBDII scanner? I have DynoScan made by Auterra. I like it. You can monitor a ton of parameters and even make dyno runs.
#1082
If Cipher works, you can remove the speed limiter, bump timing +-2, set a revcut (IIRC). No tuning, basic stuff.
If you can slow the weight transfer by incr rebound in the front, this will prevent the rears from compressing - this is improved by stiffer rear springs. Rebound is the action, compression (rear) is the reaction.
If you can slow the weight transfer by incr rebound in the front, this will prevent the rears from compressing - this is improved by stiffer rear springs. Rebound is the action, compression (rear) is the reaction.
#1083
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If Cipher works, you can remove the speed limiter, bump timing +-2, set a revcut (IIRC). No tuning, basic stuff.
If you can slow the weight transfer by incr rebound in the front, this will prevent the rears from compressing - this is improved by stiffer rear springs. Rebound is the action, compression (rear) is the reaction.
If you can slow the weight transfer by incr rebound in the front, this will prevent the rears from compressing - this is improved by stiffer rear springs. Rebound is the action, compression (rear) is the reaction.
#1085
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I went to the dealership today. I had a small crowd standing around my car for a half hour. They were pretty surprised to see a beautiful VQ35 sitting in a 92 Maxima.
I installed the 03 Maxima 6spd ECU and got my NATS reprogrammed. The car drives fine. My cruise control doesn't work just yet for some reason. I need to double check the voltage being sent to the ECU from the cruise control module to make sure everything is correct. But at least I'm not getting any CAN error codes due to the TCM not being plugged in.
I installed the 03 Maxima 6spd ECU and got my NATS reprogrammed. The car drives fine. My cruise control doesn't work just yet for some reason. I need to double check the voltage being sent to the ECU from the cruise control module to make sure everything is correct. But at least I'm not getting any CAN error codes due to the TCM not being plugged in.
#1087
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Well the car is so fast that I can just accelerate up to 60mph, set the cruise, and still beat the car next to me in the 1/4 mile.
But really... I like to take this car on road trips. I've already been to South Florida and back about 3-4 times since the VQ35 got installed. And I drove to MAXUS 09 as well. It would be nice to finally have cruise control.
But really... I like to take this car on road trips. I've already been to South Florida and back about 3-4 times since the VQ35 got installed. And I drove to MAXUS 09 as well. It would be nice to finally have cruise control.
#1088
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE;7416409ui
But really... I like to take this car on road trips. I've already been to South Florida and back about 3-4 times since the VQ35 got installed. And I drove to MAXUS 09 as well. It would be nice to finally have cruise control.
CRUISE FTW
#1089
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MY CRUISE WORKS!
I had a chance to look over everything and find out why my cruise control didn't work the day Nissan reprogrammed the NATS for the 6spd ECM. I scanned the engine codes yesterday and didn't get anything. So I knew my ASCD module was sending the right signals. So, I was pretty sure it had something to do with the ASCD brake switch and/or the Stop Lamp Switch. As I get in the car with my multimeter and schematics, I quickly look to make sure the connectors are plugged in. The ASCD switch was unplugged. I remember unplugging it back when I first got the VQ35 running. Jime mentioned something about his throttle body plate not fully opening when you brake stall it. So I went ahead and just left it unplugged since I didn't want it hindering my racing.
The cruise control works great though! The torque converter needs to be locked up in order to actually use the cruise due to how quickly the revs raise when you push the gas with it unlocked. The ECM must not like it, so it cancels the cruise. To those that haven't been able to read through this entire thread. I originally had an 02 Maxima AT ECM, which needs to communicate with the TCM. Since I don't have a TCM, I would get CAN error codes. The FSM says the cruise can't have any CAN errors to work. So I used a 6spd Maxima ECM. That got rid of the CAN codes and allowed my cruise to work.
I'm excited! Time to schedule another road trip!
I had a chance to look over everything and find out why my cruise control didn't work the day Nissan reprogrammed the NATS for the 6spd ECM. I scanned the engine codes yesterday and didn't get anything. So I knew my ASCD module was sending the right signals. So, I was pretty sure it had something to do with the ASCD brake switch and/or the Stop Lamp Switch. As I get in the car with my multimeter and schematics, I quickly look to make sure the connectors are plugged in. The ASCD switch was unplugged. I remember unplugging it back when I first got the VQ35 running. Jime mentioned something about his throttle body plate not fully opening when you brake stall it. So I went ahead and just left it unplugged since I didn't want it hindering my racing.
The cruise control works great though! The torque converter needs to be locked up in order to actually use the cruise due to how quickly the revs raise when you push the gas with it unlocked. The ECM must not like it, so it cancels the cruise. To those that haven't been able to read through this entire thread. I originally had an 02 Maxima AT ECM, which needs to communicate with the TCM. Since I don't have a TCM, I would get CAN error codes. The FSM says the cruise can't have any CAN errors to work. So I used a 6spd Maxima ECM. That got rid of the CAN codes and allowed my cruise to work.
I'm excited! Time to schedule another road trip!
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 02-11-2010 at 02:46 PM.
#1092
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Yeah, definitely. If there is a 3rd genner out there that's willing to do a VQ swap, then I'd be more than willing to fab up these brackets. All you'll need to do is get a 4th gen Maxima crossmember and everything will bolt right up. The brackets will need to be welded to your 3rd gen though.
#1093
Haha yeah. But according to the FSM, the highest you can cruise is 89mph. I have no business going that fast anyway on the street.
Yeah, definitely. If there is a 3rd genner out there that's willing to do a VQ swap, then I'd be more than willing to fab up these brackets. All you'll need to do is get a 4th gen Maxima crossmember and everything will bolt right up. The brackets will need to be welded to your 3rd gen though.
Yeah, definitely. If there is a 3rd genner out there that's willing to do a VQ swap, then I'd be more than willing to fab up these brackets. All you'll need to do is get a 4th gen Maxima crossmember and everything will bolt right up. The brackets will need to be welded to your 3rd gen though.
#1094
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http://www.nwpengineering.com/VQ35DE...20Gallery.html
I just finished a new gallery of this entire VQ35DE Engine Swap Project. Enjoy!
Please let me know if you have any problems or notice any spelling errors.
I just finished a new gallery of this entire VQ35DE Engine Swap Project. Enjoy!
Please let me know if you have any problems or notice any spelling errors.
#1095
I originally had an 02 Maxima AT ECM, which needs to communicate with the TCM. Since I don't have a TCM, I would get CAN error codes. The FSM says the cruise can't have any CAN errors to work. So I used a 6spd Maxima ECM. That got rid of the CAN codes and allowed my cruise to work.
I'm excited! Time to schedule another road trip!
I'm excited! Time to schedule another road trip!
Was that 02 Maxima ECM from a non-TCS car? Still have it? I may need to buck up and swap out my 04 I35 ECM for a 02-03 non TCS Maxima ECM.
#1096
http://www.nwpengineering.com/VQ35DE...20Gallery.html
I just finished a new gallery of this entire VQ35DE Engine Swap Project. Enjoy!
Please let me know if you have any problems or notice any spelling errors.
I just finished a new gallery of this entire VQ35DE Engine Swap Project. Enjoy!
Please let me know if you have any problems or notice any spelling errors.
EDIT: Another one: On your oil pressure sending unit picture, you spelled it "pressue". I promise I'm looking at the pictures, too.
EDIT2: On your illumination shifter switch picture: "(Nitrous shouldn't be install until Fall of 2010."
Last edited by EnervinE; 02-17-2010 at 01:41 AM.
#1097
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I have a similar problem, I have the correct ECU and TCM, but my ECU came from a VDC equipped car and needs to talk to a CAN type ABS system, which my car doesn't have. I have persistent U1000/U1001 codes and a blinky cruise light.
Was that 02 Maxima ECM from a non-TCS car? Still have it? I may need to buck up and swap out my 04 I35 ECM for a 02-03 non TCS Maxima ECM.
Was that 02 Maxima ECM from a non-TCS car? Still have it? I may need to buck up and swap out my 04 I35 ECM for a 02-03 non TCS Maxima ECM.
I have the VIN and the Model number, but the FSM doesn't specify if it's TCS or not. If you have a way to look up information on what's printed on the ECM casing, then I can give you that number as well.
If you pay shipping, I'll be happy to throw this ECM in the mail to you since it's no longer matched to my NATS or anything.
Also, I had the same exact CAN errors. Once you eliminate those, your cruise should work. I can't believe I went this long without having a cruise! How did I ever live without it?
I would like to use an 04 Maxima ECM just so the UTEC would plug up easier. Right now, my UTEC is real finicky since I'm using an 02 ECM. During cold weather, it misfires really bad at idle and while cruising. But my WOT operation is just fine. I have not been able to figure out this misfiring issue. Sparks03max has the same issue and his UTEC is hardwired.
I haven't found anybody that has had misfiring issues with the 6th gen Maxima ECM or the 350z/G35 ECM. So it certainly appears to be only 5.5gen related.
On the picture to the right of the ARP fasteners picture (the one with the engine upside down), the comment says, "Rev Up oil pump and ARP rod bolts installed installed".
EDIT: Another one: On your oil pressure sending unit picture, you spelled it "pressue". I promise I'm looking at the pictures, too.
EDIT2: On your illumination shifter switch picture: "(Nitrous shouldn't be install until Fall of 2010."
EDIT: Another one: On your oil pressure sending unit picture, you spelled it "pressue". I promise I'm looking at the pictures, too.
EDIT2: On your illumination shifter switch picture: "(Nitrous shouldn't be install until Fall of 2010."
#1099
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Yeah, it's definitely a blast to drive on the street. With the stickiest street tires I could find (245/40R17 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec Z1), I still just smoke them anytime I'm WOT in 1st gear. And 1st gear stretches to 56mph! Once I shift to 2nd gear, sometimes they continue to spin in the top of 2nd gear. But if I start in 2nd gear and gun it, traction isn't an issue.
Within the next few weeks, I'm hoping to have everything ready for another track visit where I should see 11s NA. I'll make sure the camera is rolling.
Also, we have a possible VA 1/4 mile track meet in the works. Check it out:
http://forums.maxima.org/washington-...ng-thread.html
Within the next few weeks, I'm hoping to have everything ready for another track visit where I should see 11s NA. I'll make sure the camera is rolling.
Also, we have a possible VA 1/4 mile track meet in the works. Check it out:
http://forums.maxima.org/washington-...ng-thread.html
#1100
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One thing I forgot to mention is that now that the 03 Maxima 6spd ECM is installed, I was able to get back on the dyno and do some more tuning. I found out the speed limiter on this ECM is at about 145mph, which limits me around 7200rpm in 3rd gear.
This speed limiter shouldn't become an issue in the 1/4 mile with my 22" slicks until I start running 10.3-10.5s or so. And by that time, I'll probably already have a Haltech or somehow get the Uprev Osiris to work.
This speed limiter shouldn't become an issue in the 1/4 mile with my 22" slicks until I start running 10.3-10.5s or so. And by that time, I'll probably already have a Haltech or somehow get the Uprev Osiris to work.
#1102
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Why aren't you trying the 6th gen Maxima ECU? Does it even work with UpRev Osiris?
#1103
The Z33 has better VTC maps, and we can turn off the the nats with Osiris. Rememeber we've got the 02 SER dash harness, and a couple of pins may be off, but I think it will work. We'll need to locate the can wires.
I dont have ABS, like you, should it should be a snap. Speed signal with abs comes from the wheel sensors first, so its a little tougher w ABS
:edit: Mark was saying the VTC orginally may have been an EGR replacement. At WOT there was no advance.
I dont have ABS, like you, should it should be a snap. Speed signal with abs comes from the wheel sensors first, so its a little tougher w ABS
:edit: Mark was saying the VTC orginally may have been an EGR replacement. At WOT there was no advance.
Last edited by smokinjoe; 02-26-2010 at 11:14 AM.
#1104
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The Z33 has better VTC maps, and we can turn off the the nats with Osiris. Rememeber we've got the 02 SER dash harness, and a couple of pins may be off, but I think it will work. We'll need to locate the can wires.
I dont have ABS, like you, should it should be a snap. Speed signal with abs comes from the wheel sensors first, so its a little tougher w ABS
:edit: Mark was saying the VTC orginally may have been an EGR replacement. At WOT there was no advance.
I dont have ABS, like you, should it should be a snap. Speed signal with abs comes from the wheel sensors first, so its a little tougher w ABS
:edit: Mark was saying the VTC orginally may have been an EGR replacement. At WOT there was no advance.
Are you using a Z33 EC harness?
If you are going with UpRev, why are you concerned about what the stock VTC maps look like. You'll be able to make your own map. I would imagine a 6th gen Maxima EC harness and ECU will be easier and cheaper to come by. But I still haven't come across any 6th genners that are using the UpRev.
I don't have ABS any more. Everything has been disconnected. And the 3rd gen Maxima always got it's speed signal from the speed sensor inside the transmission, not the ABS. So I am using the transmission speed sensor's signal for the 02/03 Maxima ECU.
If you get the UpRev to work, expect me to follow in your steps shortly afterwards! I'm tired of the UTEC issues and speed limiter issues I'm having. The UTEC constantly misfires when the cabin temp is below 60 degrees. The colder it is, the worse it misfires. It drives me crazy. This doesn't happen to every UTEC though. There are just a couple known cases and I'm one of the lucky few. But at least my WOT performance is perfect, except that I can't tune cam timing.
Last edited by Aaron92SE; 02-26-2010 at 11:18 AM.
#1105
We are using the Z33 harness, mainly b/c Z1 has one we can use. The VTC maps is just one less thing to tune, but yea, you could do it yourself.
I havent mapped out the differences b/w the 6th gen and the Z33, but we did this for the 5.5 v Z33 and the only thing we came up with is the pedal sensors, maybe.. due to my chassis. The 5.5 TB looks good. I originally thought the flyheel would have to be clocked, but all the ECU cares about is TDC.
I havent mapped out the differences b/w the 6th gen and the Z33, but we did this for the 5.5 v Z33 and the only thing we came up with is the pedal sensors, maybe.. due to my chassis. The 5.5 TB looks good. I originally thought the flyheel would have to be clocked, but all the ECU cares about is TDC.
#1106
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We are using the Z33 harness, mainly b/c Z1 has one we can use. The VTC maps is just one less thing to tune, but yea, you could do it yourself.
I havent mapped out the differences b/w the 6th gen and the Z33, but we did this for the 5.5 v Z33 and the only thing we came up with is the pedal sensors, maybe.. due to my chassis. The 5.5 TB looks good. I originally thought the flyheel would have to be clocked, but all the ECU cares about is TDC.
I havent mapped out the differences b/w the 6th gen and the Z33, but we did this for the 5.5 v Z33 and the only thing we came up with is the pedal sensors, maybe.. due to my chassis. The 5.5 TB looks good. I originally thought the flyheel would have to be clocked, but all the ECU cares about is TDC.
I am curious how many connectors on the Z33 harness will plug right up to the 5.5g Maxima engine.
Please keep us posted in your findings whether you post here or in your thread. I'm very interested in your project!
#1108
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http://www.nwpengineering.com/mods.html
Too long to list. And yes, I did the SSIM and port matched everything.
#1109
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I had a chance to work on my Maxima today. I installed some metal coil spring spacers on the front. It gave me roughly an inch of extra clearance. If you already don't know, I had ground clearance issues with the 20" MT slicks installed. So now with these spacers, clearance isn't an issue. Let's just hope I can still hook up and do at least 1.8 60 foots still. I've never run with these new slicks before. I've only used the 22" MT slicks.
Quick little video I made today. The shorter gearing is insane!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg9YsrwUQu4
Quick little video I made today. The shorter gearing is insane!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg9YsrwUQu4
#1112
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I haven't tried yet with the street tires. But, I left the spacers in and I'll drive it tomorrow. But at first glance the way the car sits with street tires, it looks pretty even since I have spacers in the rear as well right now. Looks similar to the way the car sat with the stock springs. I have eibach right now.
#1114
That is a great vid Aaron! I cant wait to get mine together!! I guess the side exhaust will sound a lot like your open exhaust.
BTW, we are also dropping the motor about 2" - I'll have updates on that next week. It looks like yours sit as high as the B15.
BTW, we are also dropping the motor about 2" - I'll have updates on that next week. It looks like yours sit as high as the B15.
#1115
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I can't lower my motor any. It's already too close to the ground and I only have Eibach springs, which lower the car by 1.8". And on top of that, the upper intake manifold is very close to the hood. I actually had to install 1/8" washers in order to raise the backside of my hood some. I don't have any clearance issues now, plus air can easily exit my engine bay now.
#1116
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I had a chance to drive my car today with the front spacers installed. With the street tires, it's definitely much higher. If I didn't have the rubber spacers in the rear, the front end would be sticking way up in the air. I won't be driving like this normally though. The spacers are just installed right now to test things out before I hit the track again.
I also have had a very small oil seepage since I installed this engine. I knew it was coming from the electrical oil pressure sending unit for my gauge. I thought it was coming from the threads in the timing cover where the stock OP switch goes. Yesterday, I had a chance to finally get under there with a mirror and a small maglite. It's not coming from the threads in the timing cover. After I blasted it with plenty of brake cleaner and got everything clean, I cranked the engine up and thought I saw seepage from the sending unit itself on the casing. So I ordered a new one and got it installed today. NO MORE OIL SEEPAGE! I finally have an absolute perfect and leak free engine. It's a good feeling!
I also drained the German Castrol 0w30 today after 4300 miles of usage and HARD driven miles (50+ dyno runs too). If the car sat for more than 2 hours, it would rattle on the top end on every start up. It would only rattle for a half second, but it still drove me crazy! I'm not 100% sure if this was due to the oil itself, the 0w30 weight, or the oil filter drain back valve. But the 10w30 Mobile 1 never did this unless the car sat for 3+ days. I used a Mobile 1 oil filter with the Castrol and have had great luck with them over the years. But this one had the old style Mobile 1 label and a thick layer of dust on the box. It was the last on the shelf or I would have snagged a different one. So I'm not sure if the anti-drain back valve was weak. I will be sending off the German Castrol for Used Oil Analysis and I will be able to compare it to the UOA of the Mobile 1 EP 10w30 oil that I last had.
So, I spent $70 (talkinghorse - Maxima.org vendor) and gave the Amsoil Signature Series 0w30 oil a chance with the EAO-13 Amsoil oil filter. If my car rattles on first start up tomorrow, then I will leave 0 weight oils completely and probably go back to 10w30 oils. But right now, all I've done is let the engine idle, checked for leaks, and did a quick test drive (less than 1 mile). It could be all in my head, but I think the engine is quieter at idle.
I also have had a very small oil seepage since I installed this engine. I knew it was coming from the electrical oil pressure sending unit for my gauge. I thought it was coming from the threads in the timing cover where the stock OP switch goes. Yesterday, I had a chance to finally get under there with a mirror and a small maglite. It's not coming from the threads in the timing cover. After I blasted it with plenty of brake cleaner and got everything clean, I cranked the engine up and thought I saw seepage from the sending unit itself on the casing. So I ordered a new one and got it installed today. NO MORE OIL SEEPAGE! I finally have an absolute perfect and leak free engine. It's a good feeling!
I also drained the German Castrol 0w30 today after 4300 miles of usage and HARD driven miles (50+ dyno runs too). If the car sat for more than 2 hours, it would rattle on the top end on every start up. It would only rattle for a half second, but it still drove me crazy! I'm not 100% sure if this was due to the oil itself, the 0w30 weight, or the oil filter drain back valve. But the 10w30 Mobile 1 never did this unless the car sat for 3+ days. I used a Mobile 1 oil filter with the Castrol and have had great luck with them over the years. But this one had the old style Mobile 1 label and a thick layer of dust on the box. It was the last on the shelf or I would have snagged a different one. So I'm not sure if the anti-drain back valve was weak. I will be sending off the German Castrol for Used Oil Analysis and I will be able to compare it to the UOA of the Mobile 1 EP 10w30 oil that I last had.
So, I spent $70 (talkinghorse - Maxima.org vendor) and gave the Amsoil Signature Series 0w30 oil a chance with the EAO-13 Amsoil oil filter. If my car rattles on first start up tomorrow, then I will leave 0 weight oils completely and probably go back to 10w30 oils. But right now, all I've done is let the engine idle, checked for leaks, and did a quick test drive (less than 1 mile). It could be all in my head, but I think the engine is quieter at idle.
#1117
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Well I had a chance to test out the car some more with the Amsoil SS 0w30. It does rattle for a half second on every startup where it's been sitting for more than 6 or so hours. So I will be switching back to 10w30 oil. It has nothing to do with the oil filter. One thing I should bring out though is that my engine fires up pretty aggressively. Meaning, that the revs always shoot to 2K rpm for a split second and then back down to about 1000rpm where the engine warms up from there. This quick 2K rpm rev at startup isn't helping since the oil pump doesn't have enough time to get the oil to the top of the engine. So a 10w30 oil will allow the oil to stay on the top of the engine for much longer.
Yesterday, I also had a chance to do some more tuning on the street with the ram air setup. I only tuned the fuel and left the timing alone since I am confident that's as good as it'll get. I also installed the remote map selector for the UTEC. So, now I can easily switch maps on the fly. This is a pretty fun thing to tinker with too. If I ever get into index racing, I'll probably make 5 different maps with various timing maps in order to slow my car down. That'll be fun! And if I ever spray nitrous with the UTEC system, it will be easy to switch maps, open the bottle, and hang on.
I may try to hit the track again this Saturday where I'll get a couple more runs in. But, this particular track is impossible to hook up on. So, I'll doubt I'll see anything near 11s this weekend. Maybe the following weekend though if the weather is decent.
Yesterday, I also had a chance to do some more tuning on the street with the ram air setup. I only tuned the fuel and left the timing alone since I am confident that's as good as it'll get. I also installed the remote map selector for the UTEC. So, now I can easily switch maps on the fly. This is a pretty fun thing to tinker with too. If I ever get into index racing, I'll probably make 5 different maps with various timing maps in order to slow my car down. That'll be fun! And if I ever spray nitrous with the UTEC system, it will be easy to switch maps, open the bottle, and hang on.
I may try to hit the track again this Saturday where I'll get a couple more runs in. But, this particular track is impossible to hook up on. So, I'll doubt I'll see anything near 11s this weekend. Maybe the following weekend though if the weather is decent.
#1118
Big if on the weather! Yesterday it was 60 here in Atlanta, today we got 4" of snow. Tomorrow it will be 55. Go figure
What do you think is making the noise - the head? Not that it matters but for racing, all I use is Rotella 5-20. I may run 30w with the forged pistons now v OEM.
What do you think is making the noise - the head? Not that it matters but for racing, all I use is Rotella 5-20. I may run 30w with the forged pistons now v OEM.
#1119
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Big if on the weather! Yesterday it was 60 here in Atlanta, today we got 4" of snow. Tomorrow it will be 55. Go figure
What do you think is making the noise - the head? Not that it matters but for racing, all I use is Rotella 5-20. I may run 30w with the forged pistons now v OEM.
What do you think is making the noise - the head? Not that it matters but for racing, all I use is Rotella 5-20. I may run 30w with the forged pistons now v OEM.