3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
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I am planning on visiting Coastal Plains Dragway in Jacksonville, NC Friday night, Oct 29th to attempt to beat my 12.05 record. The weather is looking like it will be pretty awesome. As long as I can hook, which I bet I can, I'll see 11s All Motor!
Gates open at 6pm. They run from 6:30pm to 10:30pm. $20 for car and driver. $10 for spectator.
Who wants to come?
Gates open at 6pm. They run from 6:30pm to 10:30pm. $20 for car and driver. $10 for spectator.
Who wants to come?
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Well, I guess I won't see 11s tonight. Just a few minutes ago, the end seal on my power steering rack ruptured causing fluid to gush out of the boot every time the wheel is turned. I can't think of a way to do any quick fixes and still make it to the track tonight.
Does anybody have any ideas? If I loop the lines with an empty rack, the rack will still drip a small amount of fluid.
Does anybody have any ideas? If I loop the lines with an empty rack, the rack will still drip a small amount of fluid.
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Here's the idea I have now. I am going to drain the rack completely and see if I can get it so bone dry that nothing leaks out. If I can do that, I'll still be able to make a couple passes down the track.
I believe the PS fluid does not lubricate the actual rack. So nothing is going to seize up. If anybody has any ideas, suggestions, or concerns, please post up. Thanks!
I believe the PS fluid does not lubricate the actual rack. So nothing is going to seize up. If anybody has any ideas, suggestions, or concerns, please post up. Thanks!
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What I ended up doing with the rack was spend several hours making sure every drop was out of the rack. I disconnected various lines and jacked the car up to several different angles to make sure I got as much fluid out as possible. Even if I removed any PS lines and capped, I still would have had a large leak on the rack's end seal. So if I didn't get every last ounce out of the rack, it would be possible for a few drops to make there way on the track surface. After all my hard work, I was confident no fluid would make its way on the track. And I thoroughly inspected the car after every pass to make sure everything was leak free. And it was. I am not one of those racers that takes lightly to fluid on the track!
I am going to have to replace this PS rack though. On the last pass of the night, as I made a sharp Uturn off the track, it made a grinding noise. So I stopped and got out to make sure everything was leak free and it was. But, that tells me the rack is pretty much dead. It will need to be replaced before I race again.
Also, my radiator core sprung a leak allowing water to shoot out in a pin sized stream from the front of the radiator! The leak happened an hour before I had to leave for the track. So, I quickly put some stop leak gunk in it and that didn't help at all. It usually works though in my experience with other cars. But just not in this case. So, I attempted to solder the hole shut and that sealed it perfectly so I could race. After my last pass of the night, it was still leak free. I kept inspecting the patch after every single pass. But right as I was loading the car on the trailer, I noticed a couple drops seeping out of the hole. So, that's it. Time for a new radiator.
On top of all that, my 20" slicks are now completely worn down and showing cords. So time to retire them and attempt to find another set of these hard to find, discontinued 20" slicks!
But in the end, I did set a new world record with a 12.04 pass. I beat the old record by .01! So the record has now changed from a 12.05 to 12.04. I also set a new personal best for my 60 foot with a 1.81. So, I definitely like how the 2nd gear burnouts are allowing the 20" slicks to hold. Even the old and worn out slicks can hold the power. Plus, my new 3600 stall converter reduced the lag on the launch compared to the old 3000 stall I had when I set the 12.05 record.
I think if I had time to make a couple more passes and do a little AFR tuning, 11s would have been possible last night. But oh well, maybe next time.
Edit:
Best pass:
60' 1.8229
1/8 7.74 @ 90.9 mph
1/4 12.0492 @ 113.29 mph
I am going to have to replace this PS rack though. On the last pass of the night, as I made a sharp Uturn off the track, it made a grinding noise. So I stopped and got out to make sure everything was leak free and it was. But, that tells me the rack is pretty much dead. It will need to be replaced before I race again.
Also, my radiator core sprung a leak allowing water to shoot out in a pin sized stream from the front of the radiator! The leak happened an hour before I had to leave for the track. So, I quickly put some stop leak gunk in it and that didn't help at all. It usually works though in my experience with other cars. But just not in this case. So, I attempted to solder the hole shut and that sealed it perfectly so I could race. After my last pass of the night, it was still leak free. I kept inspecting the patch after every single pass. But right as I was loading the car on the trailer, I noticed a couple drops seeping out of the hole. So, that's it. Time for a new radiator.
On top of all that, my 20" slicks are now completely worn down and showing cords. So time to retire them and attempt to find another set of these hard to find, discontinued 20" slicks!
But in the end, I did set a new world record with a 12.04 pass. I beat the old record by .01! So the record has now changed from a 12.05 to 12.04. I also set a new personal best for my 60 foot with a 1.81. So, I definitely like how the 2nd gear burnouts are allowing the 20" slicks to hold. Even the old and worn out slicks can hold the power. Plus, my new 3600 stall converter reduced the lag on the launch compared to the old 3000 stall I had when I set the 12.05 record.
I think if I had time to make a couple more passes and do a little AFR tuning, 11s would have been possible last night. But oh well, maybe next time.

Edit:
Best pass:
60' 1.8229
1/8 7.74 @ 90.9 mph
1/4 12.0492 @ 113.29 mph
Last edited by Aaron92SE; Oct 30, 2010 at 10:01 AM.
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It will be a lot of work to get this car back up and running. So I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it back to the track before the weather starts warming back up in March. But I will try.
The only hard thing to do is install a manual steering rack. Things are cramped, so I may have to remove the engine to do it.
The only hard thing to do is install a manual steering rack. Things are cramped, so I may have to remove the engine to do it.
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Oh and I ran the 12.04 without my ram air. The IATs drop by at least 5 degrees with the ram air, so I'm sure it helps. But, I think my AFR can be better on that map.
It will be a lot of work to get this car back up and running. So I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it back to the track before the weather starts warming back up in March. But I will try.
The only hard thing to do is install a manual steering rack. Things are cramped, so I may have to remove the engine to do it.
The only hard thing to do is install a manual steering rack. Things are cramped, so I may have to remove the engine to do it.
I would put a manual rack in my car. So much easier to turn than a power steering rack with the belt taken off.
I can't wait till you hit the 11. That would be cool if you did it on 20" slicks too.
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Do some 3rd gens come with a manual rack? That's awesome!
I would put a manual rack in my car. So much easier to turn than a power steering rack with the belt taken off.
You are so close!!
I can't wait till you hit the 11. That would be cool if you did it on 20" slicks too.
I would put a manual rack in my car. So much easier to turn than a power steering rack with the belt taken off.
You are so close!!
I can't wait till you hit the 11. That would be cool if you did it on 20" slicks too.
The 20" slicks are easily holding the power. When I cut the low 1.8s, I never heard any hazing of the tires. I only felt slight traction loss when I started getting 1.85 and worse 60 foots. But the 1.81s and 1.82s felt like they dead hooked at 17psi. No locked suspension either. Just a good burnout and good track prep.
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No 3rd gens came with a manual rack. So I will have to find one from another car that meets the requirements and dimensions to make this install go relatively smooth. The 81-84 Maxima came with a manual rack I believe as well as several Z cars, Sentra, NX, 810, and Versa. I would like to start by taking measurements of these Nissan racks. The chances of them being similar to my 92 Maxima PS rack are decent. If none of them appear to be a good candidate, I will look into other manufacturers.
The 20" slicks are easily holding the power. When I cut the low 1.8s, I never heard any hazing of the tires. I only felt slight traction loss when I started getting 1.85 and worse 60 foots. But the 1.81s and 1.82s felt like they dead hooked at 17psi. No locked suspension either. Just a good burnout and good track prep.
The 20" slicks are easily holding the power. When I cut the low 1.8s, I never heard any hazing of the tires. I only felt slight traction loss when I started getting 1.85 and worse 60 foots. But the 1.81s and 1.82s felt like they dead hooked at 17psi. No locked suspension either. Just a good burnout and good track prep.
That's good that it is hooking better.
I'm interested to see if the 20" slicks will hold when you can launch at 4000+ RPM.
Probably need a 22" at that point.
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I am pretty excited right now! I just got off the phone with Andre at Edge Racing Converters again and I have some REALLY good news! Edge Racing is going to build a brand new line of converters for the Maxima that is based off the math of a smaller cover! That means MUCH less parasitic loss and a drastically higher torque multiplication. Since a smaller cover will be used, this will allow the converter to be lightweight and you can pretty much choose whatever stall you want without much cavitation (builds heat). Want a 4K+ stall in your turbocharged street Maxima so that you can build plenty of boost off the line while at the track? That will be easy and you will experience increased HP to the wheels at the same time! And best of all, your ATF temperatures will be lower!
For my particular 92 Maxima, a 5K+ stall will be best, maybe even 5500+! And the smaller cover will make that possible! 1.6 60 foots should be possible while increasing my trap speed at the same time due to having a more efficient converter.
Edge Racing Converters is the first company to do this type of R&D for the Maxima. If everything goes as planned, I should have the first prototype ready to be tested in my Maxima by the end of this year! I can't wait! This is truly ground breaking news for the Maxima automatic community! Having a properly built 9.5" converter will allow all us automatic guys to finally have ENDLESS options like the domestic crowd has since it's based off the same math! Once I show this community what kind of 60 foots and ETs my Maxima is capable of with the right converter, we just might have a few guys doing manual to auto transmission swaps.
For my particular 92 Maxima, a 5K+ stall will be best, maybe even 5500+! And the smaller cover will make that possible! 1.6 60 foots should be possible while increasing my trap speed at the same time due to having a more efficient converter.
Edge Racing Converters is the first company to do this type of R&D for the Maxima. If everything goes as planned, I should have the first prototype ready to be tested in my Maxima by the end of this year! I can't wait! This is truly ground breaking news for the Maxima automatic community! Having a properly built 9.5" converter will allow all us automatic guys to finally have ENDLESS options like the domestic crowd has since it's based off the same math! Once I show this community what kind of 60 foots and ETs my Maxima is capable of with the right converter, we just might have a few guys doing manual to auto transmission swaps.
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A lot of the nice domestic race converters are close to the $1000 mark. But Andre told me he's shooting for the $550 range. And yes, it's too early to know for sure. So please do not hold me or Edge Racing Converters to that price.
Very nice news!. My girl asked me how she could get her car in the 12's N/A and this is one of the mods I mentioned and explained to her what it does. Having a 5500 stall would be awesome.
For my particular 92 Maxima, a 5K+ stall will be best, maybe even 5500+! And the smaller cover will make that possible! 1.6 60 foots should be possible while increasing my trap speed at the same time due to having a more efficient converter.
Edge Racing Converters is the first company to do this type of R&D for the Maxima. If everything goes as planned, I should have the first prototype ready to be tested in my Maxima by the end of this year! I can't wait! This is truly ground breaking news for the Maxima automatic community! Having a properly built 9.5" converter will allow all us automatic guys to finally have ENDLESS options like the domestic crowd has since it's based off the same math! Once I show this community what kind of 60 foots and ETs my Maxima is capable of with the right converter, we just might have a few guys doing manual to auto transmission swaps.


You're right - this is exciting news. Launch at 5K and shift at 8K - I like it. I would like a blue one, please.
Subscribed....
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Yeah, most serious drag racers on this forum will definitely take full advantage of a 9.5" converter. Right now with our stock converter cover size, in order to have a 4000 stall, you need to be spraying nitrous out of the hole AND have an inefficient converter with a lot of slippage, which builds heat and lowers your trap speed considerably. Imagine having that same stall, but with less slippage, less heat, and a higher trap speed all at the same time.
In all my testing with various converter designs, I have noticed a decrease in trap speed by increasing stall with the same cover size. For instance, I beat my 12.05 @ 114 (1.90 60') record with a time of 12.04 @ 113 (1.82 60'). The 12.05 was with a more efficient 2900 stall. The 12.04 was with a 3600 stall that had more slippage which made it less efficient. That's why my trap speed was reduced I believe. If I was putting down the exact same amount of power, my trap should have been 115+ mph which would have allowed for an 11.90 pass.
In all my testing with various converter designs, I have noticed a decrease in trap speed by increasing stall with the same cover size. For instance, I beat my 12.05 @ 114 (1.90 60') record with a time of 12.04 @ 113 (1.82 60'). The 12.05 was with a more efficient 2900 stall. The 12.04 was with a 3600 stall that had more slippage which made it less efficient. That's why my trap speed was reduced I believe. If I was putting down the exact same amount of power, my trap should have been 115+ mph which would have allowed for an 11.90 pass.
In all my testing with various converter designs, I have noticed a decrease in trap speed by increasing stall with the same cover size. For instance, I beat my 12.05 @ 114 (1.90 60') record with a time of 12.04 @ 113 (1.82 60'). The 12.05 was with a more efficient 2900 stall. The 12.04 was with a 3600 stall that had more slippage which made it less efficient. That's why my trap speed was reduced I believe. If I was putting down the exact same amount of power, my trap should have been 115+ mph which would have allowed for an 11.90 pass.
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Yes, the reason why I was able to run a 12.04 with a less WHP was b/c of the reduced 60'. That's how I came up with that 11.90 estimate if I was making the same amount of power as when I ran the 12.05 @ 114.
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Swap
Hello,
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
Hello,
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
Hello,
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
I would like to apologize for posting in your thread a question not directly related to your swap. I just hope that you or somebody else can help diagnose and fix my problem.
I've completed VQ35 full automatic swap into my 1998 GLE. Everything works 100% with one exception and I cannot figure it out.
The engine and transmission came from 2003 Maxima SE with 66000 miles. The car had a right,front side collision but the engine was still runable (I was told that).
When we first started the engine after swap in turned right up. No problems. It revs to any RPM without any hesitation.
Here is my problem. When I turn on the car and start driving, transmission shift appropriately up until I break (push on the brake pedal). After that transmission gets into limp mode.
Things I've checked:
-- Power Train revolution sensor and Vehicle speed sensors are new. Power train sensor has been checked with oscilloscope and generates 240Hz frequency when car is driven at 10MPH. The vehicle speed sensor generates intermittent voltage in appropriate range. Sensors get power and ground.
-- TCM pin 45 and ECM pin 55 both are connected to the break switch (checked with probe)
-- Same behavior exhibit with 2 different TCMs
I am getting 3 codes: U1001, P1212, P1564
I don’t worry about P1564, the ASCD controls are not connected yet.
Since I didn’t swap ABS unit I suppose I will get U1001.
I retained the 1998 shift assembly. Not sure is it because of this or some other reason but I cannot get transmission into Self-Diagnose mode (counting the At/Check light blinks). As a last resort I can take car to the dealer for CONSULT scan, but I reserve it for the very very last.
Thanks,
Mike
And make another thread to continue this subject.....
Last edited by grey99max; Nov 15, 2010 at 08:58 AM.
I have seen the same thing when using a 2001 4AT in my 99 GXE - the factory TCU does not always like the difference in shift solenoids from the 98 transmission to my 2001 transmission - and will drop into Limp mode if I have the TCU connected to the transmission. Usually I don't, because I have a different racing shifter, but I still have to connect a A and B solenoid from a 95-99 transmission to the TCU - otherwise, I go Limp!
And make another thread to continue this subject.....
And make another thread to continue this subject.....
I am using 2003 tranny and TCM from the same car. They should work together.
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My 92 Maxima VQ35 has been featured in the latest issue of Nissan Sport Magazine.
World's quickest naturally aspirated Maxima!
http://www.nissansportmag.com/
World's quickest naturally aspirated Maxima!
http://www.nissansportmag.com/
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It's been a while since my last update. I haven't had a chance to work on my Maxima in several months. But today, I talked to Andre at Edge Racing Converters about my custom high stall 9.5" torque converter. He said it is still in the works, but it's taking a little longer than expected due to health problems. But he's ok and back in the shop again.
According to his math, this 9.5" cover will allow me to have roughly a 4500rpm stall all while keeping the same efficiency as the 3000 stall they currently sell! This is amazing considering how little amount of power I put down on the launch (no nitrous or spooled turbo). So, once I test out the new converter and see what rpm I'm able to launch at, then he'll be able to tweak it from there and raise the stall further if I need it. But this will lose efficiency since he'll have to change the angle of the fins. So, we will have to test out several different units before we can find the one that gives me the absolute best ET in the 1/4 mile all motor. When you start changing the angle of the fins, you will drop your 60' times, but lower your trap speed. This can result in the same exact ET since it's a trade off. So my goal is to raise the stall just enough so that it will launch under full power with the camshafts I plan on using in the future. If he is able to build me a reasonably efficient 5000rpm stall converter, I may end up with some JWT C8s or something.
According to MY math, if I am able to launch at 4500+ rpm, I could possibly see mid 11s this Fall/Winter NA without changing camshafts!
According to his math, this 9.5" cover will allow me to have roughly a 4500rpm stall all while keeping the same efficiency as the 3000 stall they currently sell! This is amazing considering how little amount of power I put down on the launch (no nitrous or spooled turbo). So, once I test out the new converter and see what rpm I'm able to launch at, then he'll be able to tweak it from there and raise the stall further if I need it. But this will lose efficiency since he'll have to change the angle of the fins. So, we will have to test out several different units before we can find the one that gives me the absolute best ET in the 1/4 mile all motor. When you start changing the angle of the fins, you will drop your 60' times, but lower your trap speed. This can result in the same exact ET since it's a trade off. So my goal is to raise the stall just enough so that it will launch under full power with the camshafts I plan on using in the future. If he is able to build me a reasonably efficient 5000rpm stall converter, I may end up with some JWT C8s or something.
According to MY math, if I am able to launch at 4500+ rpm, I could possibly see mid 11s this Fall/Winter NA without changing camshafts!
It's been a while since my last update. I haven't had a chance to work on my Maxima in several months. But today, I talked to Andre at Edge Racing Converters about my custom high stall 9.5" torque converter. He said it is still in the works, but it's taking a little longer than expected due to health problems. But he's ok and back in the shop again.
According to his math, this 9.5" cover will allow me to have roughly a 4500rpm stall all while keeping the same efficiency as the 3000 stall they currently sell! This is amazing considering how little amount of power I put down on the launch (no nitrous or spooled turbo). So, once I test out the new converter and see what rpm I'm able to launch at, then he'll be able to tweak it from there and raise the stall further if I need it. But this will lose efficiency since he'll have to change the angle of the fins. So, we will have to test out several different units before we can find the one that gives me the absolute best ET in the 1/4 mile all motor. When you start changing the angle of the fins, you will drop your 60' times, but lower your trap speed. This can result in the same exact ET since it's a trade off. So my goal is to raise the stall just enough so that it will launch under full power with the camshafts I plan on using in the future. If he is able to build me a reasonably efficient 5000rpm stall converter, I may end up with some JWT C8s or something.
According to MY math, if I am able to launch at 4500+ rpm, I could possibly see mid 11s this Fall/Winter NA without changing camshafts!
According to his math, this 9.5" cover will allow me to have roughly a 4500rpm stall all while keeping the same efficiency as the 3000 stall they currently sell! This is amazing considering how little amount of power I put down on the launch (no nitrous or spooled turbo). So, once I test out the new converter and see what rpm I'm able to launch at, then he'll be able to tweak it from there and raise the stall further if I need it. But this will lose efficiency since he'll have to change the angle of the fins. So, we will have to test out several different units before we can find the one that gives me the absolute best ET in the 1/4 mile all motor. When you start changing the angle of the fins, you will drop your 60' times, but lower your trap speed. This can result in the same exact ET since it's a trade off. So my goal is to raise the stall just enough so that it will launch under full power with the camshafts I plan on using in the future. If he is able to build me a reasonably efficient 5000rpm stall converter, I may end up with some JWT C8s or something.
According to MY math, if I am able to launch at 4500+ rpm, I could possibly see mid 11s this Fall/Winter NA without changing camshafts!

ThankMike
Thread Starter
NWP Engineering.com
iTrader: (128)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,065
From: Walstonburg, NC
Good Information! I considering you can use same as sparks03max's (s)ssim from his first threads?, It can make more power on mid to high rpm from dyno sheet it look not bad! I hope low ET can improve in 11 sec from 12 sec w/o upgrade camshaft?! "Who will first 11 sec All-Motor VQ35?" lol
Thank
Mike
ThankMike
I'm definitely hoping to become the first NA Maxima in the 11s. In fact, no other NA VQ35 has ever gotten into the 11s. None that I know of.



