3rd gen VQ35DE Full ECU Swap Progress Thread
03-28-2014, 12:19 AM
#1481
1.The longer your gears and heavier your car, the higher stall you'll see.
2. I have two shift maps with the Suprastick. One of them holds 2nd gear while I stall it up. When I launch, I flip to the other map which gives me my automatic shifts starting in 1st gear. But there is a delay when I switch shift maps.
And manually shifting down the 1/4 mile is possible, but VERY hard to hit the shift points perfectly. A missed shift point by 200rpm will result in a 1/4 mile ET that is 2 tenths or more slower, which is huge. So it's hard to run consistent passes while manually shifting.
3. But right now, I'm not sure if this 2nd gear stall up thing is just a phase or something I will use in the future. I am still testing. If I'm able to flash above 4100-4400rpm right off idle, then I won't need to stall it up in 2nd gear. So far, my best 60 foots have come from launching off idle. The slicks hook a lot more consistently this way. By stalling it up, it breaks the slicks loose easier and gives me worse and inconsistent 60s. But if I can get them to hook on a day when the track is prepped well and hooking, I know I can see some 1.6s 60s by stalling it up. So I'm not ready to give up.
4. And my other idea would be to swap in some smaller brakes to get them to clear 13" wheels and run the 24.5x9x13 MT slicks! Much more sidewall wrinkle instead of trying to get a 15" slick to hook.
I think the S14 240sx guys like to use the stock Maxima brakes as an upgrade. Maybe I can downgrade to the 240sx brakes just as easily!
2. I have two shift maps with the Suprastick. One of them holds 2nd gear while I stall it up. When I launch, I flip to the other map which gives me my automatic shifts starting in 1st gear. But there is a delay when I switch shift maps.
And manually shifting down the 1/4 mile is possible, but VERY hard to hit the shift points perfectly. A missed shift point by 200rpm will result in a 1/4 mile ET that is 2 tenths or more slower, which is huge. So it's hard to run consistent passes while manually shifting.
3. But right now, I'm not sure if this 2nd gear stall up thing is just a phase or something I will use in the future. I am still testing. If I'm able to flash above 4100-4400rpm right off idle, then I won't need to stall it up in 2nd gear. So far, my best 60 foots have come from launching off idle. The slicks hook a lot more consistently this way. By stalling it up, it breaks the slicks loose easier and gives me worse and inconsistent 60s. But if I can get them to hook on a day when the track is prepped well and hooking, I know I can see some 1.6s 60s by stalling it up. So I'm not ready to give up.
4. And my other idea would be to swap in some smaller brakes to get them to clear 13" wheels and run the 24.5x9x13 MT slicks! Much more sidewall wrinkle instead of trying to get a 15" slick to hook.
I think the S14 240sx guys like to use the stock Maxima brakes as an upgrade. Maybe I can downgrade to the 240sx brakes just as easily!1. You can fake the gearing to put more stall by going to BIGGER/WIDER tires (24.5X8x15's or better yet 26x10x15's)
2. Lose the 2nd gear launch idea!! Half a second in 2nd gear on launch is 1/2 a second of a run pulling less G forces going down track than you need. If you were on the verge of running too fast for an index class... that is one way to address it. Let the original SUPRASTICK map do it's intended job.
3. It is a phase.... Stalling up the tranny is the way to go. It takes time for the motor to go from idle to full stall (not to mention you have less power at idle) See #1 and #4 on how to hold that power!!
4. Yes... you do need more sidewall, but NOT at the expense of going to a smaller rim. More sidewall will "cushion" the initial tire shock on launch and aid in avoiding the loss of traction. But again, a 26x10x15 will still give you that 5 1/2 inches of sidewall as opposed to the 3 1/2 inches you have now.
Q. Why a larger tire?
A. More rollout from the staging beam. Think of it as an extra inch or two of a head-start before clearing the staging beam and starting the E.T. clock.
Here is what I am talking about knocking off .15 from your E.T.
1968 Chevelle...
22" front tire: (60') 1.65 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.31
26" front tire: (60') 1.59 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.14
29" front tire: (60') 1.54 .... (1/4 E.T.) 10.99
All things being equal... only the tire size changed. All runs were on the same day within an hours time. This car is DEADLY consistent!! BTW, the 22"s are used for PRO TREE events, the 26"s were my father's size for .510-.530 reaction times, and the 29's are mine for .510-.530 reaction times. ( I would red light with the 26's)
03-28-2014, 06:15 PM
#1482
And my other idea would be to swap in some smaller brakes to get them to clear 13" wheels and run the 24.5x9x13 MT slicks! Much more sidewall wrinkle instead of trying to get a 15" slick to hook. I think the S14 240sx guys like to use the stock Maxima brakes as an upgrade. Maybe I can downgrade to the 240sx brakes just as easily!
I think the S14 240sx guys like to use the stock Maxima brakes as an upgrade. Maybe I can downgrade to the 240sx brakes just as easily!That sounds like a lot of fun! Wish I could have went for a ride!
03-30-2014, 08:42 AM
#1483
I had some similar problems with the huge DRs I'm using, and when I finished the locked-diffy in the Altima 4AT, steering became hazardous to my health, so I got all the front suspension bushings replaced with solid bushings, so I can at least steer the car again. I really gotta point the car in the direction I want it to go before I smack the throttle. Reminds me of my old '63 Econoline van w/rear-mounted Boss 302 that had a locked 4:56 Chevy third member. Line up the truck, straighten the front wheels, dump the clutch and wait until the front tires got back on the ground, then steer. Good ol' days.
After a very thorough inspection and testing these past couple of days, I have come to the conclusion that my alignment didn't move. But somehow, with all the adjustments we were making on the alignment rack to get the camber dialed in while mimicing a launch, we somehow overlooked the toe being out. I can't think of anything else. This time, I have better documentation on the exact adjustments that were made and before and after settings. So if it moves even the tiniest bit, I will be able to tell pretty easily.
And the only reason why it pulled hard left is because I'm pretty sure I got out of the groove after the traps on that one run and the front slick just followed a rut in the track surface. And I was running a lower pressure that day than I normally run.
In my 30 years of drag racing experience I will offer to you MY suggestions on how you can simplify your setup AND knock at least .15 off of your E.T. ( given your runs in similar weather conditions)
1. You can fake the gearing to put more stall by going to BIGGER/WIDER tires (24.5X8x15's or better yet 26x10x15's)
2. Lose the 2nd gear launch idea!! Half a second in 2nd gear on launch is 1/2 a second of a run pulling less G forces going down track than you need. If you were on the verge of running too fast for an index class... that is one way to address it. Let the original SUPRASTICK map do it's intended job.
3. It is a phase.... Stalling up the tranny is the way to go. It takes time for the motor to go from idle to full stall (not to mention you have less power at idle) See #1 and #4 on how to hold that power!!
4. Yes... you do need more sidewall, but NOT at the expense of going to a smaller rim. More sidewall will "cushion" the initial tire shock on launch and aid in avoiding the loss of traction. But again, a 26x10x15 will still give you that 5 1/2 inches of sidewall as opposed to the 3 1/2 inches you have now.
Q. Why a larger tire?
A. More rollout from the staging beam. Think of it as an extra inch or two of a head-start before clearing the staging beam and starting the E.T. clock.
Here is what I am talking about knocking off .15 from your E.T.
1968 Chevelle...
22" front tire: (60') 1.65 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.31
26" front tire: (60') 1.59 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.14
29" front tire: (60') 1.54 .... (1/4 E.T.) 10.99
All things being equal... only the tire size changed. All runs were on the same day within an hours time. This car is DEADLY consistent!! BTW, the 22"s are used for PRO TREE events, the 26"s were my father's size for .510-.530 reaction times, and the 29's are mine for .510-.530 reaction times. ( I would red light with the 26's)
1. You can fake the gearing to put more stall by going to BIGGER/WIDER tires (24.5X8x15's or better yet 26x10x15's)
2. Lose the 2nd gear launch idea!! Half a second in 2nd gear on launch is 1/2 a second of a run pulling less G forces going down track than you need. If you were on the verge of running too fast for an index class... that is one way to address it. Let the original SUPRASTICK map do it's intended job.
3. It is a phase.... Stalling up the tranny is the way to go. It takes time for the motor to go from idle to full stall (not to mention you have less power at idle) See #1 and #4 on how to hold that power!!
4. Yes... you do need more sidewall, but NOT at the expense of going to a smaller rim. More sidewall will "cushion" the initial tire shock on launch and aid in avoiding the loss of traction. But again, a 26x10x15 will still give you that 5 1/2 inches of sidewall as opposed to the 3 1/2 inches you have now.
Q. Why a larger tire?
A. More rollout from the staging beam. Think of it as an extra inch or two of a head-start before clearing the staging beam and starting the E.T. clock.
Here is what I am talking about knocking off .15 from your E.T.
1968 Chevelle...
22" front tire: (60') 1.65 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.31
26" front tire: (60') 1.59 .... (1/4 E.T.) 11.14
29" front tire: (60') 1.54 .... (1/4 E.T.) 10.99
All things being equal... only the tire size changed. All runs were on the same day within an hours time. This car is DEADLY consistent!! BTW, the 22"s are used for PRO TREE events, the 26"s were my father's size for .510-.530 reaction times, and the 29's are mine for .510-.530 reaction times. ( I would red light with the 26's)
Plus, with this new torque converter I'm testing only has 17 passes on it right now. It's the first time a converter like this has ever been made for a Nissan that I know of. We are still in the prototype phase. We have at least one more tweak to do to the converter until it's where I want it. So I will be sending it back in within the next week or so.
Once I am able to launch above 4100rpm, then I will finally be able to achieve the 60 foots I am searching for in my FWD Maxima, which are 1.6s all motor.
Also, the biggest tire I can run in my class is a 25" slick. So the 24.5x9x13 slick will give me the best traction possible. Better than a 24.5" slick with a 15" wheel. And I have only had 3 TnT track days with this converter on a track that was not prepped or had other slick cars running. I'm sure the 22" MT slicks I am running now are capable of hooking up during a regular race. I'm not done testing with them since the converter project isn't done.
And yes, a bigger diameter slick will raise the stall some and will improve my 60 foot due to the higher HP at that higher stall, but it will also reduce my trap speed because I won't be making peak power through the traps. I feel the 24.5" slick will be the best of both worlds once I am done building the converter we need. More consistant traction on poor track days, higher stall due to longer gearing, better 60 foots, but lower trap speed since I will be riding out 3rd gear through the traps at only 5700rpm, which is below peak HP.
And it doesn't take a half second to downshift to 1st gear on the launch if I manually shift, which is instant. This is just something I am experimenting with that I thought I would share with the world. The only reason I'm trying it is because I can not stall up the converter in 1st gear above 4100rpm. It overpowers my brakes. I don't have a transbrake. With my footbrake, launching it off idle shocks the converter the most and I see the highest stall possible. I am able to see a 3900-4000rpm stall by flashing it off idle. If I stall it up in 1st gear, I can get it as high as 3400 before it over powers the brakes and it shocks the slicks too much and causes them to break loose everytime, then bogs because I'm below 4100rpm, then takes off. The cleanest and best 60 foots so far with the converter I have now come from a launch right off idle. It flashes at 3900-4000 and doesn't bog nearly as bad as if I try to stall it up in 1st gear. But all this will change considerably after I am finally able to build a converter that can flash higher than 4100rpm and launch at peak torque.
Thanks! Since my car only weighs 2450lbs, the 240sx brakes will still stop this Maxima pretty quick. I will probably messed around with this project once the torque converter project comes to an end within the next month or so. I believe everything is a direct bolt on from the S14!
04-17-2024, 06:27 AM
#1488
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2023
Posts: 7
Thank you! I'm sorry that I don't have any updates right now. The car is just sitting in the shop. I crank it up every now and then to make sure the engine stays healthy. The GTR injectors needs to be installed and UTEC retuned before I hit the track again to get some base numbers since it's been so long since I ran the 1/4 mile in this car 128 code. Then, I'll have some good times to compare to when I install the 4K+ stall Edge Racing Torque Converter prototype that's sitting on the shelf!
I really want to get this car back out on the track. But I've spent every waking moment trying to get this new NWP product released for the VQ35DE engine. Testing is complete and the HP gains are impressive! The product will fit on the following vehicles:
03-06 350z
03-07 G35 Coupe
03-06 G35 Sedan
02-08 Maxima
02-06 Altima 3.5L
02-04 I35
03-07 Murano
04-09 Quest
We hope to have the product released within the next couple weeks!
I really want to get this car back out on the track. But I've spent every waking moment trying to get this new NWP product released for the VQ35DE engine. Testing is complete and the HP gains are impressive! The product will fit on the following vehicles:
03-06 350z
03-07 G35 Coupe
03-06 G35 Sedan
02-08 Maxima
02-06 Altima 3.5L
02-04 I35
03-07 Murano
04-09 Quest
We hope to have the product released within the next couple weeks!
Engine Fuel Temp
Short HI 128 174 03
i actually got this reading from the diagnostics on my dash....but it only pops up if my chk engine light comes on........
im thinking fuel temp sensor??? which if im not mistaken i replaced it a few years back(did it myself)
\
or maybe someone can tell me a site here on the web where i can look up info like this?
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