camming my dek. cant decide which
camming my dek. cant decide which
Alright so long story short I'm almost done with modding my dek. All basic bolt ons and eu tuned(mildly, stock rev limit and no timing advance at the moment. Just a/f adjustments so far) so cams are next
I've pretty much found these as my main options
C2. Vq35 .456dur 261degrees 11.58lift
S1. Vq35 .428dur. 260degrees 10.9lift
S2. Vq35 .430dur. 256degrees 10.92lift
S1 vq30 .415dur 256degrees gross lift
I'm still not sure which is the best for me. I don't mind a rough idle or anything. And I plan to rev to about 7200-7500 depending on what the dyno tells me.
I'm still making plenty of low end power so I suppose I can give up a little of that for some top end power. I was still continuing to make power til I crashed into the rev limiter. So just reving more will yield me more power than I'm making now. But I'd like to make as much as I could
I'm planning on useing the jim wolf springs and shims regardless of cams.
Thanks for all the input yall can give me.
I've pretty much found these as my main options
C2. Vq35 .456dur 261degrees 11.58lift
S1. Vq35 .428dur. 260degrees 10.9lift
S2. Vq35 .430dur. 256degrees 10.92lift
S1 vq30 .415dur 256degrees gross lift
I'm still not sure which is the best for me. I don't mind a rough idle or anything. And I plan to rev to about 7200-7500 depending on what the dyno tells me.
I'm still making plenty of low end power so I suppose I can give up a little of that for some top end power. I was still continuing to make power til I crashed into the rev limiter. So just reving more will yield me more power than I'm making now. But I'd like to make as much as I could
I'm planning on useing the jim wolf springs and shims regardless of cams.
Thanks for all the input yall can give me.
sum my man, cams are completely up to you if you got the coin. id go with the knockoffs maninly beacuse of the price, and you can spend that saved money in other areas (rod bolts mainly). i have double shimmed hr springs in my motor now which can also save you some money compared to the JWTs. im sure others will help you out with this topic.... lata pimpin
I say skip JWT altogether if you're serious about top-end power. They're mild cams designed for mild valve springs. Sure the lift and advertised duration numbers look good but the ramp rates are weak. Tomei/Nismo are my suggestions. Unfortunately, with almost any aftermarket cam you will be selling yourself short on revs unless you upgrade the oil pump and/or balance the bottom end to a higher degree. It's almost guaranteed that you'll be making good power past what a factory 3.0 bottom end can handle.
But if I had to choose from those 3, I'm not really sure. Sure the C2's have higher lift, but that also means that the valve will spend less time being fully open than with the S1's. The ramp rate must be weaker if they're designed for the same springs. I'd try asking someone like DandyMax to model the C2's and see what the powerband will be like. He's already modeled the knock-off S1's so it won't be too difficult for him.
But if I had to choose from those 3, I'm not really sure. Sure the C2's have higher lift, but that also means that the valve will spend less time being fully open than with the S1's. The ramp rate must be weaker if they're designed for the same springs. I'd try asking someone like DandyMax to model the C2's and see what the powerband will be like. He's already modeled the knock-off S1's so it won't be too difficult for him.
Last edited by nismology; Oct 31, 2008 at 08:38 AM.
Yeah I've continued my research.well as much as I can with a blackberry in a tent with crappy signal.
I'm deff leaning towards the s1s with hr spring/shims. I really have had bad luck with knockoffs everytime and I know a lot of people have had good luck with them. I think I'm gonna spend the few extra bucks and get the legit ones. Since ill be half a world away when the install is done and prob out of communication range I'm trying to make it as easy for my guy to install as possible.
Next question is what do I get the spacers speced to?
While its off I'm gonna see if I can get the uim cleaned up a bit. I didn't notice a huge diff sans power rod. But the rod itself was quite grimey so I'm only going to assume the whole intake is all gunked up. Wonder how much of a diff thatll make. I polished the inside of my hotshots before install and while I can't say if it made a difference alone. In theory the rough inside shouldnt flow as well as it does now. I can only hope cleaning the uim and swapping the cams will unleash enough power to get me over the 270whp make. With a good tune of course.
Ill keep yall posted, could be a while but I think it'll be worth it.
I'm deff leaning towards the s1s with hr spring/shims. I really have had bad luck with knockoffs everytime and I know a lot of people have had good luck with them. I think I'm gonna spend the few extra bucks and get the legit ones. Since ill be half a world away when the install is done and prob out of communication range I'm trying to make it as easy for my guy to install as possible.
Next question is what do I get the spacers speced to?
While its off I'm gonna see if I can get the uim cleaned up a bit. I didn't notice a huge diff sans power rod. But the rod itself was quite grimey so I'm only going to assume the whole intake is all gunked up. Wonder how much of a diff thatll make. I polished the inside of my hotshots before install and while I can't say if it made a difference alone. In theory the rough inside shouldnt flow as well as it does now. I can only hope cleaning the uim and swapping the cams will unleash enough power to get me over the 270whp make. With a good tune of course.
Ill keep yall posted, could be a while but I think it'll be worth it.
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