ok... i been doing some research and this is a possible project for me..



please correct me if i am wrong in any of these numbers...




CYLINDER HEAD BOLT Product SKU: 11056-L31003 $6.06 (16)

(HR)PISTON RINGS Product SKU: 12033-Z33003 $100.67

(HR)PISTON & PIN SET Product SKU: A2010-Z33011 $57.89 (6)

BEARING SET-CRANKSHAFT Product SKU: 12208-L31003 $38.26

BOLT-CONNECTING ROD Product SKU: 12109-L31001 $3.78 (12)

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS Product SKU: 12111-L31003 $9.14 (6)



yes, i own an altima, so i used the altima 3.5L SKU's

all this came from coutresy nissan website...

ok.. http://www.importperformanceparts.net/


has TOGA HP Main & Rod Bearings $120..

HR head bolts should be used instead of DE head bolts....


so... ARP>HR>DE

dont you mean HR>DE>ARP

ARP are better then HR which are better than DE...


arp>hr>de... like i said...


i do see your point though

ok.. another question...


as i am looking up pistons.. there are 3 different grades..
can some one explain this?

Its really a matter of opinion...

I personally think HR>ARP

and I'd rather use more nissan parts if possible

agreed, .... if i decide to do this.. HR bolts will be used

no one

FSM explains the grades, every nissan has um from what I have seen. The grades are various sizes IIRC.

ohhhhhhh.... tanks.... guess it is FSM time... damnit.

i see what you did here nismology...

I would go with the service size on the pistons. That's the ideal way to go when installing new slugs. It will ensure that the cylinders are true and the clearances are within spec in all 6.

logical...

Unless, of course, you would like to avoid the cost of machining the block.

So I believe the main goal of this thread is to determine which parts to be used when doing a build like this.

So correct me if I'm wrong. To do HR piston on De motor is the pistons, main and head bolts the only HR parts needed? the rest is DE bearings, rods, rod bolts etc?

who do you think is building the engine?

correct...

but really at the cost of OEM bearings vs Toga's and rod bolts being cheap enough to score...why not (when in rome)

and HR oil pump would be nice to have...its all piece of mind IMO

service size meaning what...like .020 over? and any idea how much boring and honing would cost?

Technically you could leave everything else alone and just use DE parts.

Nissan's service size is .002mm over.


I'll try to look for the quotes I got from a local machine shop for cleaning/honing. Whichever shop you choose, make sure they use a torque plate.

And if you're going to go with an aftermarket bearing you might as well go with ACL race series bearings (they make cosworth's as well) vs. a relatively no-name company. HR head gasket would be a nice touch as well. Superior coolant routing. Not plug and play though.

Toga has made a name for itself, I've used them in the many engines that I have built, my friends celica got a set and he revs beyond stock (not that its about the bearings), but I've seen them used in alot of motor builds they do just fine. Unless the price on the ACL is the same as the toga, then I'll STFU

My thing is, if I'm only going to do it once...

Of course, why do you think I convinced jeff to go this far...if your in there might as well do these things. and who do you think will be building it?

true but there would be certain advantages to using some HR parts like main/head bolts, maybe rod bolts, HG...etc, plus like you said "If i'm only going to do it once..."

If the HR main/head bolts will fit and are stronger than DE plus might not cost much more than the DE then why not.

depending on the age of the motor honing may not be needed. you'd need to inspect the wall and see the shape they are in, scratched, cross hatching still visible..etc..

Might be more advantageous to tear the block down yourself and inspect the wall, rather than have a shop do it and charge you.

doesn't the FSM say once you break the head bolts and rod bolts loose...replace them...so why not upgrade.

it does due to them stretching once they are torqued down. ARP are re-usable and dont stretch but if you only plan to be in their once then no need to upgrade.

a VQ35 I built I put ARP head bolts in there, but now that I think about it, it wasnt needed as there was no need to ever go back in. I guess it sounds good if it were to be a show car

Piece of mind...esspecially if some day you want to push the engine further, you have the ability to do so.

Trust me, I understand this stuff more than enough. It just sounded like your post was implying that the other stuff was mandatory to run HR pistons when they are optional.

point taken. but if its anything more than a year later I'd have more peace of mind putting new ones in... but thats just me.



You've installed pistons bearing etc before in a vq35? or 30? (dave)

Going with an oversize piston should be standard operating procedure for any high performance engine build and has nothing to do with the shape the motor is in to begin with. We're not talking about deglazing worn cylinder walls but about ensuring a perfect fit for the new slugs.

nah, I know really Just the Pistons are needed, but in the name of best bang for buck build... other HR components would be useful, compatible, and strong.
good point...

Except for the HR rod bolts. They won't fit into DE rods. Arp is still the only upgrade option other than revup bolts. Actually I think tomei, nismo, and cosworth might make some as well now that I think about it.

Thank you! I've been wondering about that, but I didn't want to start a whole thread just for that.

interesting...

something I was curious about in the other thread. since machining the HR pistons was needed for clearance, the alternative mentioned was the Cometic HG. If that provides the proper clearance and the motor would be as safe as if the pistons were machined... why not go with the Cometic HG, they arent that expensive and would save the worry of a machine shop doing the machining and someone makes a mistake or a piston is a little un-even or human factor lets call it that...

Well I'd personally go with the HR head gasket no matter what due to the superior design and coolant routing.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf

It's what I'm using in my build.



I wonder if he had confirmed what the installed thickness of the cometic would be vs. OEM head gaskets. If he had, I guess it's a quick and easy alternative to the machining process.

True, this is what I'm wondering. I'd rather get the cometic HG if it will save machining. Time to do some searching and find out the thickness.


for the HR HG to work, what modifications are needed? Does whole need to be made on the left side similar to the DE HG's?