00vi swap
with the VAFC I think you can set what is considered WOT or not. If I am understanding it right, you can set WOT to start at like 10% throttle and the VAFC will kick in as soon as you reach 10% throttle...
Yes you will be running rich with the de-k injectors. But i dont think it will harm your cat's. sucks i dont know a thing about the vafc. But in genral i would tune for wot. Do you have a wideband or will you just be dynoing??
I belive that the 4th gen coils will fit on the 5th gen VC but it woundnt be that secure and some diffrent hardware would be needed(bolts and washers) Seriously though i do need a DVD BURNER
or a usb cd bruner
I belive that the 4th gen coils will fit on the 5th gen VC but it woundnt be that secure and some diffrent hardware would be needed(bolts and washers) Seriously though i do need a DVD BURNER
or a usb cd bruner
Yes you will be running rich with the de-k injectors. But i dont think it will harm your cat's. sucks i dont know a thing about the vafc. But in genral i would tune for wot. Do you have a wideband or will you just be dynoing??
I belive that the 4th gen coils will fit on the 5th gen VC but it woundnt be that secure and some diffrent hardware would be needed(bolts and washers) Seriously though i do need a DVD BURNER
or a usb cd bruner
I belive that the 4th gen coils will fit on the 5th gen VC but it woundnt be that secure and some diffrent hardware would be needed(bolts and washers) Seriously though i do need a DVD BURNER
or a usb cd brunerHmm, I did have a black 18X Samsung dual layer DVD burner in a computer I loaned to a friend. It might be time to ask for that back.

If you happen to need any 4th gen parts too let me know. I might get a thread up soon with all my stuff, but I have a full set of coils, a TPS, and a knock sensor.
Unfortunately I don't have a wideband. In the long run I am sure it is ideal, but a friend told me he has a friend who may be able to get me dyno time at a discount. So if they have a wideband or a tailpipe sniffer I might just tune on the dyno if I can get a good 3 or 4 runs in for under 50 bucks.
Maybe I will see if I can do a baseline run just to see the difference the VI makes.
The only thing making me hesitant to use the 4th gen rear setup is just the PCV valve. If I were to throw a 90 degree elbow on the valve cover and hook a hose up and relocate the PCV, how much more oil would it take in than the original setup? Would it be dangerous levels?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3248273

I know there are some .org members who use one, but I failed to dig up any of those threads.
Hmm, I did have a black 18X Samsung dual layer DVD burner in a computer I loaned to a friend. It might be time to ask for that back. 
If you happen to need any 4th gen parts too let me know. I might get a thread up soon with all my stuff, but I have a full set of coils, a TPS, and a knock sensor.
Unfortunately I don't have a wideband. In the long run I am sure it is ideal, but a friend told me he has a friend who may be able to get me dyno time at a discount. So if they have a wideband or a tailpipe sniffer I might just tune on the dyno if I can get a good 3 or 4 runs in for under 50 bucks.
Maybe I will see if I can do a baseline run just to see the difference the VI makes.

If you happen to need any 4th gen parts too let me know. I might get a thread up soon with all my stuff, but I have a full set of coils, a TPS, and a knock sensor.
Unfortunately I don't have a wideband. In the long run I am sure it is ideal, but a friend told me he has a friend who may be able to get me dyno time at a discount. So if they have a wideband or a tailpipe sniffer I might just tune on the dyno if I can get a good 3 or 4 runs in for under 50 bucks.
Maybe I will see if I can do a baseline run just to see the difference the VI makes.
I have all the 4th gen parts i need
I have a junk 4th gen sitting in my parents driveway.
Ok heres an update everyone. I did a bit of prep work. I got the throttle body and IACV assembly all cleaned up. I also ran a bit of brake cleaner through the UIM, but considering it came off a car with 60,000 miles without EGR, it was pretty clean inside.
Also, I removed the swirl valves from the LIM:

I am just going to use the bolts that hold in the swirl valve assembly to plug the holes for the rods with some JB weld like so:
Also, I removed the swirl valves from the LIM:

I am just going to use the bolts that hold in the swirl valve assembly to plug the holes for the rods with some JB weld like so:
Yea, I haven't gotten around to cleaning the LIM yet.
The inner holes only go between intake runners, I can't see any possible places where I could have a vacuum leak by having those unplugged.
As far as the two outside holes, that part isn't metal, but is made out of some hard plastic/rubber. Will JB weld hold well enough? I am not sure how it bonds to non-metallic objects.
The inner holes only go between intake runners, I can't see any possible places where I could have a vacuum leak by having those unplugged.
As far as the two outside holes, that part isn't metal, but is made out of some hard plastic/rubber. Will JB weld hold well enough? I am not sure how it bonds to non-metallic objects.
Alright, holes are JB welded, I have my IACV, VAFC2 hooked up, I think I am ready to go. I should have a valvecover coming in later this week. My rear coils will have to sit on top of it for now, but that will only be temporary.
I have been reading through the past threads and so far all they really mention about using the 2000 fuel rail is just to use the newer FPR and not the 4th gen one. Is that all there is to it? I just cut the existing fuel hoses, buy some fittings and hook it right up as if it was a 4th gen rail?
Also, due to emissions I might keep EGR. To do this, all I need to buy is a 2000 EGR guide tube and it is pretty much plug and play? Or will I have to cut my existing EGR tube and weld the end of the 2000 EGR guide tube on?
Thanks for all your help guys. I am sure this will be a lot easier once I dive into it, but I am trying to learn as much as possible beforehand so I can just sit down one night and get it done.
I have been reading through the past threads and so far all they really mention about using the 2000 fuel rail is just to use the newer FPR and not the 4th gen one. Is that all there is to it? I just cut the existing fuel hoses, buy some fittings and hook it right up as if it was a 4th gen rail?
Also, due to emissions I might keep EGR. To do this, all I need to buy is a 2000 EGR guide tube and it is pretty much plug and play? Or will I have to cut my existing EGR tube and weld the end of the 2000 EGR guide tube on?
Thanks for all your help guys. I am sure this will be a lot easier once I dive into it, but I am trying to learn as much as possible beforehand so I can just sit down one night and get it done.
yeah, use the 5th gen FPR, the one on the "rear rail". One closer to the front of the car has nothing but a fitting on the 4th gen. I couldn't find a correct fitting so I JB welded a different one in place, still holding up. As for he EGR, either get the egr guide tube or get an ECU from a 95, should work...
yeah, use the 5th gen FPR, the one on the "rear rail". One closer to the front of the car has nothing but a fitting on the 4th gen. I couldn't find a correct fitting so I JB welded a different one in place, still holding up. As for he EGR, either get the egr guide tube or get an ECU from a 95, should work...
The bolt holes just have to be hogged out a bit, then it bolts up perfectly to the fuel rail.
Well, I just checked, I think I am good to go as far as fittings. The 5th gen fuel rail has them and it has hoses still attached.
The only thing that confuses me is the differences between the two rails.
4th gen:
-On the firewall side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and vacuum hooked up to it.
-On the radiator side of the rail it has hose hooked up to it.
Is fuel flowing into the rail from the firewall side, going around the rail and then exiting on the radiator side?
5th gen:
-On the firewall side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and a spot for vacuum to be hooked up to it. Just like the 4th gen rail.
-On the radiator side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and a spot for vacuum to be hooked up to it as well. Just like the other side, but UNLIKE the 4th gen rail which just has a hose.
Do I need to do anything different in my routing of fuel or is it as simple as just hooking it up exactly like the 4th gen rail with the only exception being that I need a second vacuum line for the second FPR?
The only thing that confuses me is the differences between the two rails.
4th gen:
-On the firewall side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and vacuum hooked up to it.
-On the radiator side of the rail it has hose hooked up to it.
Is fuel flowing into the rail from the firewall side, going around the rail and then exiting on the radiator side?
5th gen:
-On the firewall side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and a spot for vacuum to be hooked up to it. Just like the 4th gen rail.
-On the radiator side of the rail it has a FPR with fuel hose and a spot for vacuum to be hooked up to it as well. Just like the other side, but UNLIKE the 4th gen rail which just has a hose.
Do I need to do anything different in my routing of fuel or is it as simple as just hooking it up exactly like the 4th gen rail with the only exception being that I need a second vacuum line for the second FPR?
Just use the 5th gen rail. Leave the FPR on the fire wall side. On the radiator side remove the FPR and use a fuel rail adapter in it's place, one like pmohr linked too. I bought one from Weapon R.
If you still have enough of the hose coming off the damper(radiator side) you just use the existing hose off that damper. You would just use a barbed coupling to connect the fuel coming off the filter. Or you could probley fit it onto the gallery that the fuel hooks up to. But IIRC the hose off the DE-K rail is a little smaller than the fitting on that gallery. I remebered it fit but it was a PITA to get it fully seated on it.
Hell i still have it this way even on my 3.5 w\de-k rail. Ill take a pic of it later on tonight to show you what im talking about. But then again the adapter is only like 20 bucks that pmohr linked you.
Also the fuel would be running to the radiator side first(Feed) then comes out the firewall side(return). I made the same mistake thinking that it came though the firewall side then returned though the radiator side.
Also that is not a FPR on the radiator side it's a damper. It just looks like a fpr
Hell i still have it this way even on my 3.5 w\de-k rail. Ill take a pic of it later on tonight to show you what im talking about. But then again the adapter is only like 20 bucks that pmohr linked you.
Also the fuel would be running to the radiator side first(Feed) then comes out the firewall side(return). I made the same mistake thinking that it came though the firewall side then returned though the radiator side.
Also that is not a FPR on the radiator side it's a damper. It just looks like a fpr
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; Jul 8, 2009 at 02:42 PM.



I know your thinking about running the EGR due to emmissions. So you cant exactly get rid of the whole gallery. But you can bypass the fuel part of the gallery and just hook it up straight to the filter. Although you might need to extend the hose off the fuel filter to reach the current hosing off the Damper
Awesome! Thanks for the info! So I can just leave that damper on then.
I just went and did some poking around under the hood and the stock 4th gen setup is indeed like you say. One thing I am confused about though, is if fuel is coming from the fuel filter straight into the fuel rail, where is the fuel pressure regulator? It is on the exit side of the line?
So on the 5th gen rail, fuel enters from the filter on the radiator side and that thing right on the rail is a damper, it goes through the rail and when it exits the rail is the fuel pressure regulator?
I just went and did some poking around under the hood and the stock 4th gen setup is indeed like you say. One thing I am confused about though, is if fuel is coming from the fuel filter straight into the fuel rail, where is the fuel pressure regulator? It is on the exit side of the line?
So on the 5th gen rail, fuel enters from the filter on the radiator side and that thing right on the rail is a damper, it goes through the rail and when it exits the rail is the fuel pressure regulator?
Awesome! Thanks for the info! So I can just leave that damper on then.
I just went and did some poking around under the hood and the stock 4th gen setup is indeed like you say. One thing I am confused about though, is if fuel is coming from the fuel filter straight into the fuel rail, where is the fuel pressure regulator? It is on the exit side of the line?
So on the 5th gen rail, fuel enters from the filter on the radiator side and that thing right on the rail is a damper, it goes through the rail and when it exits the rail is the fuel pressure regulator?
I just went and did some poking around under the hood and the stock 4th gen setup is indeed like you say. One thing I am confused about though, is if fuel is coming from the fuel filter straight into the fuel rail, where is the fuel pressure regulator? It is on the exit side of the line?
So on the 5th gen rail, fuel enters from the filter on the radiator side and that thing right on the rail is a damper, it goes through the rail and when it exits the rail is the fuel pressure regulator?
I got this fitting here, only $20 - http://enjukuracing.com/isis-fuel-pr...34bekqkr7mt4e0
The bolt holes just have to be hogged out a bit, then it bolts up perfectly to the fuel rail.
The bolt holes just have to be hogged out a bit, then it bolts up perfectly to the fuel rail.
Nice! I should have noticed the black valve covers too.

On that note, I just have to wait for mine to come in the mail, and I'm going to go for it.
I've been checking my doorstep every hour lol.
Just got the email with the tracking number. According to UPS it should be here tomorrow.
I started taking everything apart and I have all the vacuum lines and everything well documented.
My car is being a little ***** right now though. I spent the last 3 hours trying to get to that god damn vacuum hose on the underside of the USIM behind the EGR. There are two of them facing each other. I got the drivers side one off, and the passengers side one I can't see how it is possible.
I can't get the metal clip off. I can't even cut the god damn hose. How the hell does anyone get that thing on or off?
**** like this turns me off of Japanese cars completely. I never would have run into a bombshell like this on my old Taurus. Or my Golf. My old Sentra, the Maxima, and both our Subaru's all have bull**** like this in them that makes it ridiculous to work on. AHRGRGHHAGRH
I'm off back to the garage to see if this god damn thing is gonna give up or if its just gonna cut up my hands more.
If worse comes to worse I might just take my hood off, put one foot on the radiator brace, the other on the shock tower, grab the manifold and just do a god damn leg press until I rip this flipping hose off.
I started taking everything apart and I have all the vacuum lines and everything well documented.
My car is being a little ***** right now though. I spent the last 3 hours trying to get to that god damn vacuum hose on the underside of the USIM behind the EGR. There are two of them facing each other. I got the drivers side one off, and the passengers side one I can't see how it is possible.
I can't get the metal clip off. I can't even cut the god damn hose. How the hell does anyone get that thing on or off?
**** like this turns me off of Japanese cars completely. I never would have run into a bombshell like this on my old Taurus. Or my Golf. My old Sentra, the Maxima, and both our Subaru's all have bull**** like this in them that makes it ridiculous to work on. AHRGRGHHAGRH

I'm off back to the garage to see if this god damn thing is gonna give up or if its just gonna cut up my hands more.
If worse comes to worse I might just take my hood off, put one foot on the radiator brace, the other on the shock tower, grab the manifold and just do a god damn leg press until I rip this flipping hose off.
Just got the email with the tracking number. According to UPS it should be here tomorrow.
I started taking everything apart and I have all the vacuum lines and everything well documented.
My car is being a little ***** right now though. I spent the last 3 hours trying to get to that god damn vacuum hose on the underside of the USIM behind the EGR. There are two of them facing each other. I got the drivers side one off, and the passengers side one I can't see how it is possible.
I can't get the metal clip off. I can't even cut the god damn hose. How the hell does anyone get that thing on or off?
**** like this turns me off of Japanese cars completely. I never would have run into a bombshell like this on my old Taurus. Or my Golf. My old Sentra, the Maxima, and both our Subaru's all have bull**** like this in them that makes it ridiculous to work on. AHRGRGHHAGRH
I'm off back to the garage to see if this god damn thing is gonna give up or if its just gonna cut up my hands more.
If worse comes to worse I might just take my hood off, put one foot on the radiator brace, the other on the shock tower, grab the manifold and just do a god damn leg press until I rip this flipping hose off.
I started taking everything apart and I have all the vacuum lines and everything well documented.
My car is being a little ***** right now though. I spent the last 3 hours trying to get to that god damn vacuum hose on the underside of the USIM behind the EGR. There are two of them facing each other. I got the drivers side one off, and the passengers side one I can't see how it is possible.
I can't get the metal clip off. I can't even cut the god damn hose. How the hell does anyone get that thing on or off?
**** like this turns me off of Japanese cars completely. I never would have run into a bombshell like this on my old Taurus. Or my Golf. My old Sentra, the Maxima, and both our Subaru's all have bull**** like this in them that makes it ridiculous to work on. AHRGRGHHAGRH

I'm off back to the garage to see if this god damn thing is gonna give up or if its just gonna cut up my hands more.
If worse comes to worse I might just take my hood off, put one foot on the radiator brace, the other on the shock tower, grab the manifold and just do a god damn leg press until I rip this flipping hose off.
You mean you can't just cut through it with a knife? ...are you sure you're using the correct side of the blade?

It's not kevlar, it's just rubber.
If you've got the USIM completely unbolted, just flip it over onto the left side strut tower, should have the necessary room then. Or flip it up onto the windshield. You should then have more than enough room to either properly remove, or cut the hose.
It's a coolant hose, not a vacuum hose.
You mean you can't just cut through it with a knife? ...are you sure you're using the correct side of the blade?
It's not kevlar, it's just rubber.
If you've got the USIM completely unbolted, just flip it over onto the left side strut tower, should have the necessary room then. Or flip it up onto the windshield. You should then have more than enough room to either properly remove, or cut the hose.
You mean you can't just cut through it with a knife? ...are you sure you're using the correct side of the blade?

It's not kevlar, it's just rubber.
If you've got the USIM completely unbolted, just flip it over onto the left side strut tower, should have the necessary room then. Or flip it up onto the windshield. You should then have more than enough room to either properly remove, or cut the hose.
Well I got it, and yep, definitely is a coolant hose. I gave up on cutters and just got out a razor blade and slowly sawed through it.
Tomorrow morning I'll take my fuel rail and LIM off, go to the dealer and get gaskets and put the new lower and fuel rail on.
Tomorrow morning I'll take my fuel rail and LIM off, go to the dealer and get gaskets and put the new lower and fuel rail on.
Well, all is going well so far.
I got my rear valve cover in the mail. The UPS guy apparently is a 3rd gen owner and seemed massively excited about Maximas. 
I had some fuel hoses that were being really stubborn. Razor blade solved that issue though.
I wish I had gotten my gaskets ahead of time. The dealers around here want 90 bucks for just the lower intake manifold gaskets. How reliably can the old 4th gen LIM gaskets be reused? What if I were to do a very very thin layer of RTV between the old gaskets and the engine to ensure it doesn't leak?
I got my rear valve cover in the mail. The UPS guy apparently is a 3rd gen owner and seemed massively excited about Maximas. 
I had some fuel hoses that were being really stubborn. Razor blade solved that issue though.

I wish I had gotten my gaskets ahead of time. The dealers around here want 90 bucks for just the lower intake manifold gaskets. How reliably can the old 4th gen LIM gaskets be reused? What if I were to do a very very thin layer of RTV between the old gaskets and the engine to ensure it doesn't leak?
Well, all is going well so far.
I got my rear valve cover in the mail. The UPS guy apparently is a 3rd gen owner and seemed massively excited about Maximas. 
I had some fuel hoses that were being really stubborn. Razor blade solved that issue though.
I wish I had gotten my gaskets ahead of time. The dealers around here want 90 bucks for just the lower intake manifold gaskets. How reliably can the old 4th gen LIM gaskets be reused? What if I were to do a very very thin layer of RTV between the old gaskets and the engine to ensure it doesn't leak?
I got my rear valve cover in the mail. The UPS guy apparently is a 3rd gen owner and seemed massively excited about Maximas. 
I had some fuel hoses that were being really stubborn. Razor blade solved that issue though.

I wish I had gotten my gaskets ahead of time. The dealers around here want 90 bucks for just the lower intake manifold gaskets. How reliably can the old 4th gen LIM gaskets be reused? What if I were to do a very very thin layer of RTV between the old gaskets and the engine to ensure it doesn't leak?
I'd pick up a set like this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...lenotsupported
I got one from the same people (IIRC) for my A32 when I was taking everything apart, every gasket was OEM quality. Even has the metal exhaust manifold gaskets. I've still got those, head gaskets, and valve seals laying around here somewhere.
One thing that's kinda odd though is their pic shows what seems to be an A32 IACV gasket, but

On second thought (as I look at the thermostat that for some reason I have on my desk), that's a thermostat housing gasket.
It'll take a couple days, but IMO is worth it to replace everything, including the valve cover gaskets, TB gaskets, UIM gasket, etc.
Last edited by pmohr; Jul 10, 2009 at 03:14 PM.
You could, but personally I wouldn't.
I'd pick up a set like this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...lenotsupported
I got one from the same people (IIRC) for my A32 when I was taking everything apart, every gasket was OEM quality. Even has the metal exhaust manifold gaskets. I've still got those, head gaskets, and valve seals laying around here somewhere.
One thing that's kinda odd though is their pic shows what seems to be an A32 IACV gasket, but
On second thought (as I look at the thermostat that for some reason I have on my desk), that's a thermostat housing gasket.
It'll take a couple days, but IMO is worth it to replace everything, including the valve cover gaskets, TB gaskets, UIM gasket, etc.
I'd pick up a set like this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...lenotsupported
I got one from the same people (IIRC) for my A32 when I was taking everything apart, every gasket was OEM quality. Even has the metal exhaust manifold gaskets. I've still got those, head gaskets, and valve seals laying around here somewhere.
One thing that's kinda odd though is their pic shows what seems to be an A32 IACV gasket, but

On second thought (as I look at the thermostat that for some reason I have on my desk), that's a thermostat housing gasket.
It'll take a couple days, but IMO is worth it to replace everything, including the valve cover gaskets, TB gaskets, UIM gasket, etc.
Well, all is well so far. I decided I think I am going to keep my EGR. I didn't realize the 4th gen tube gets in the way of the manifold sitting on there. Tomorrow I think I am going to remove it, install the UIM and see if it starts up and idles with an EGR block off plate.
I don't think it should hurt anything going open EGR without a guidetube just for testing purposes for a day?
I don't think it should hurt anything going open EGR without a guidetube just for testing purposes for a day?



