Nope, as long as you disable the EGR valve so you're not spewing exhaust into the engine bay.

 

does that come with 2 TB gaskets? The molded one that goes into the IM groove and then another one that goes on top of that?!?

 

Yep, just look at the picture:


Upper left, right below the valve stem seals. Orange is the UIM-restrictor plate gasket, right next to it is the restrictor plate-TB gasket.

 

Well, I just ran into the hardest part of my swap so far.

I can't figure out how to remove the 4th gen EGR guide tube.



As you can see in this picture, the two green arrows are approximately where the bolts are that hold this in place. To even be able to see the one on the left I have to take all this junk on top off. To do that, I need to take the two bolts circled in red off. I got one off, however that tab and the cylinder head itself are in the way of the second bolt.


Assuming I miraculously can get that stuff off, how am I supposed to undo these bolts?



As you can see, the only bolt I can see is surrounded by metal tubes that are not bendable at all. Getting a socket on that one will not be possible with that tube in front of it. I can't even see how I could get a wrench on that either.

Not to mention the other bolt I can't even see.

If anyone has any tips on how to remove this guide tube other than "practice witchcraft" and "learn the ways of the force" that would be greatly appreciated because honestly, I can't see how to remove this damn thing other than going apesh!t all over the engine bay with a sawzall.

Also, if I recall correctly, our EGR is controlled by the ECU right? To disable it temporarily is there a plug somewhere I can unplug?

Thanks!

 

Controlled by the ECU in that the ECU commands the EGR-C solenoid valve to open to enable the EGR system yes. It's not electronic however, it's all vacuum hoses and valves, with the single solenoid. The '99s and up have an electronic stepper motor (much like the IACV motor).

You could unplug the EGR-C solenoid valve, or just remove the vac lines from the EGR valves.

Search the 4th gen section, there's a writeup on cleaning the guide tube, including fully removing it.

 

if the restrictor plate is removed then you wouldn't use both I'm guessing.
When running sans EGR on DEK swap, is the EGR temp sensor the only EGR component that needs to be left connected in order to avoid codes? As in remove all valves and solendoids related to EGR except the temp sensor?

 

EGR temp sensor, and the solenoid valve as well if you're getting that code.

You could use both, but no real reason. It would likely be fine with just the rubber gasket on the UIM itself.

 

Man im glad i dont have that thing in my car anymore. Sorry nick im not much help when it comes to the egr. I know when i took mine off my first swap it was a pita. I left my the egr there in my second swap(non functioning) cause i didnt want to deal with it. no emissions and sawzall FTW

 

Thanks man. I haven't worked on cars in like 2-3 years now and I'm second guessing my every step now, it irritates me that I'm not comfortable with it anymore. Thanks for the help...

 

i believe you cut that excess metal sticking out of the nut in the second picture to get a wrench in there and remove the nut.

 

Sweet. Finally after 2 days of dealing with that it is out of the way. Jacked the car up, cut that part off, got the wrench on it, stripped the nut (I really need to find some 6 point wrenches and get rid of my 12 point BS), got out the dremel, cut the nut, got out the vicegrips, ripped the nut off.

I then had to cut away the bracket that holds the EGRC-BPT valve as the bottom of the UIM hits it. I also removed the two rear supports for the UIM. For some reason it was hitting both of them, not just the drivers side. Hopefully it should have enough support without either of the rear braces.

For now I am getting impatient and just bypassed IACV coolant. It will probably be on cold idle no matter what, but that will have to wait for another day. The EGRC-BPT valve is definitely in the way. Some day when I have the time and patience I will completely relocate it and run coolant to my IACV.

So far the only issue is my throttle cables, but that will have to wait for another day. I can get like 70 percent throttle on it with my current setup so thats no biggie. I just want to see if she runs.

I'm going to search on how to modify the IACV plug, go out, hook that up, and hopefully I should be posting back here with success in about an hour or so.

 

Is this what you're looking for? modify the IACV plug (post 15 & 16)

As for the throttle cable, are you using the 4th gen throttle cable bracket (that goes on top of the UIM) or are you using one off the 5th gen?

 

Thanks for the link, thats the guide I used to modify the plug. Got that all taken care of. Unfortunately I don't have the 5th gen, so I just bolted the 4th gen one on and will have to tighten the throttle cable to get it to work.

I am really close to being ready to start it. I'm gonna go relocate those grounds right now and it should be good to go.

 

I relocated my grounds to the valve cover, and then ran a dedicated 4awg wire from the chassis ground to that point on the valve cover.

 

I just but them on my UIM bolts. She starts up and runs. At first I couldn't figure out why it was running so rough. Then my CEL started blinking. And I thought, crap...I wired an injector wrong.

Turns out I was so excited about the swap I forgot to put the rear coil packs in haha.

Anyway, I think I need to sort out some vacuum issues. It appears the MAF sensor plays a huge role in the car's idle, so I will have to sort out some issues with that.

Also my rear valve cover leaks like none other, so I have to get a new gasket. After that I will sort out all the little issues like EGR, running coolant to the TB, etc.

I assume once I tune it things should run much better at WOT also. I can smell fuel she is running so rich. I might tune with the VAFC to have it lean it out at idle too. Apparently the car runs in open loop at idle so I assume it uses the MAF sensor. Since I have larger injectors now, that would give me a really rich idle.



One quick question, has anyone here tuned their 00vi and 5th gen injectors with a SAFC/VAFC? If so, in general what corrections are you using on it? I want to slightly lean it out just a wee bit and get at least a general idea of how much would be safe based on some other people's numbers. This isn't some idiotic attempt to perfect a tune based off someone elses numbers, but I figure if I can get an idea of what other people do, I can get an idea of what would be a safe boundary to lean mine out just a bit until I get a wideband in a week. I'm afraid of destroying my cats with it running so rich.

 

no one will tell you the corrections because every car is truly different. Get yourself a wideband controller and sensor, a long stretch of road and get tuning...

 

True, I plan to pick up a wideband on Thursday, but it is quite a drive away. I was just worried about messing something up until then with it being so rich.


Hopefully once I get it tuned it will be a lot better. I think I have sorted out most of the issues. A couple things I have noticed that I don't like:

1.) I can hear stuff gurgling through the PCV hose. I am definitely going to pick up a new PCV valve to rule that out.

2.) The car feels incredibly slow, partial throttle or WOT. My first gear now feels like second gear with the USIM. This could be because it is running so rich though.

3.) As soon as I put the clutch in, the RPMs dip to about 300 and then come up to about 600. When I am using my power steering it dips low and shakes. When I put my A/C on it goes to about 500 and the engine sputters horribly whenever I turn the A/C on or turn it off.

4.) Wierd whistleing noise at about 30-50 percent throttle

 

My guess just from these symptoms is that you have a vaccum leak some where.

Or you may have a bad coil pack or bad injector.

But if your getting a weird whistling sound i would suspect a bad leak somewhere.

Have you scanned for codes by any chance??

By running rich it shouldnt hamper your performance to much.

Lol at not putting on the rear coils

 

your TPS is set properly?

 

1) agreed, also, did you use the A32 or A33 rear VC?

2) Yes, get it tuned, report back.

3) What IACV are you using? I think you said A33, but Im not sure... if you are, check your connections and make sure you're good. And, check for vacuum leaks.

4) I get the same thing, pretty sure its from the throttle body.

 

1.) Yup, using the A33 rear VC
2.) I think my butt dyno is thrown off a bit because it doesn't growl like a **** anymore. I just punched it in first at about 20mph and chirped the tires while moving, so I think its good. I got the VI hooked up and man redline comes so much faster now that all the power isn't falling off up top.
3.)A33 IACV. My idle issues happen like 80 percent of the time. I have a feeling some of the pins must not be making contact since the connector is just jammed in with some tape wrapped around it.

I used the propane torch method and noticed no idle fluctuations. Maybe I will buy one of those cheap fog machines on the haloween aisle and give that a try.

4.) I went under the hood and listened and I'm pretty sure it comes from the throttle body too. Maybe that is what that black "restrictor plate" is for.

 

I just picked up a 00vi with fuel rail, injectors, coils, rear valve cover.

Comparing my parts list with everyone elses, it seems like im ready to do the swap.
and i got questions.

most of my wires are cut short on the fuel injectors, is it a direct splice from the factory fuel injector harness?

How do i hook up the electrical connectors and vacuum hoses to the 00vi VIAS from the 4th gen? Where do they come from or where are they located?

Does the if i have the 5th gen LIM, does it bolt up to the motor?

Mainly, where would i start?! i have the APEXI VAFC II ready and waiting.
I appreciate any help, im eager to get this 00vi running with the wideband o2 and VAFCII.

 

Unless you've got a TB, or adapter plates, you're not ready. Among other things.

Yes, you solder them up.

You use a connector, and wire it up to the RPM switch/VAFC-II.

...yes, the LIM bolts up.

It seems like you've done zero research. Look through Tatanko's site, search, look through the stickies. These are all basic questions that have been answered time and time again.

 

Be carefull about that. I bent one of those pins and had a short. I wound up having a smoke machine in my car(ECU) If i were you id be looking for a 5th gen pigtail for the iacv.

I had to learn the hard way (x2)

 

Got a spare one? Im getting the IACV code right now :/

 

i got my JWT ECU back a couple weeks ago and i had them re-map it specifically for the DE-K injectors. what a difference that ECU makes. its unbelieveable!

 

nope. Shipping it out to the guy who bought my 00vi.

 

Well, I am definitely going to look for a 5th gen IACV pigtail.

Also, I still haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks. I know there most definitely is something wrong though because I just did 150 miles of easy highway driving and I blew through 16 gallons of Shell premium and it also stalls out when I put the clutch in most of the time.

 

hows it doing?

 

Well, remember awhile back, i was asking about an 00vi install. It finally got done, but i have 7 engine codes - MAF, IACV, Evap, amongst other things. I'm happy with it. She runs like a scalleded (sp) dog, but the codes irritate me. RPM's are high as heck. And sometimes pulses up and down. I just have to find the time to fix her. There is an 04 Maxi that's for sale. $5,000.....torn between getting that and selling the 99...i could easliy sell her for 3k. i dunno yet....will update on the progress. BIG THANKS TO PMOHR FOR ALL THE HELP.....YOUR THE MAN!!!!!!!!

 

...can you give us the code numbers? Maybe we can help.

 

Here's the codes which i've decoded, now it's simply a matter of time to correct them all: P0100, P1320, P0505, P0325, P0141, P0505, P0443. I need a good pic of a DEK swap of all sides of the engine bay if anybody has them, yes i've searcehed but most of the threads have pics but not close up ones....

 

So what have you done to fix these codes? I dont know how inclined you are in troubleshooting so let us know what you've done so far. Did you get the code diagnosis? Attempt to check connectors in engine bay?

p0100 - Mass air flow sensor (did u plug it back in?...did you drop it?)
P1320 - Ignition Signal Circuit
P0505 - Idle Speed Control
P0325 - Knock Sensor
P0141 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater
P0443 - EVAP canister purge volume control valve



sounds like you forgot to plug a few things.

 

Well, i did a little work over the weekend, went and had the codes cleared. The only one that showed up was the P0505. I found where it wasn't connected and reattached it. Now waiting to go back and have the rest of the codes cleared. Thanks for your help....

 

so you did have some unplugged devices?

 

Yeah the iacv wasn't connected, but not the throttle revvs super high, never settles and revvs up to 2k and back down. Next thing i'm gonna do is take it apart and clean it. Hopefully that clears the problem. Did you get my PM?

 

I got the PM about you getting your Codes cleared by your mechanic and the reappearing P0505 code.

Anyways, what IACV are you using? The 4th gen or 5th gen? You going to have to adjust the idle since you've modified your engine with the 00vi. The computer isnt used to the new "settings".

4th gen IACV adjusting:

How to adjust IACV -

Warm the engine up to operating temp.
Turn off the engine.
Disconnect the TPS.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed using the stop screw on the throttle body to 650 RPM's.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the TPS and restart the engine.

If the IACV is working correctly your idle should be correct. If it's a bit low, try adjusting the screw on the IACV bypass to get your idle speed to ~700 in neutral with no load. (no load means no lights or A/C)

 

Well, i just read your post. I had a mechanic look at the car and he said the iacv solenoid was bad, so i bought a new one $200. The new one is in there now with the coolant hoses going to it now where as before they were not connected. He let it run for a few minutes then it started pulsing again. I'm gonna try your method and see if that helps. Thanks man.......

 

What TB are you using?? Ever try to recalibrate your TPS?

 

i hope that mechanic is going to give your your 200$ back...