ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

Well, my last motor went bye bye awhile ago due to stupid mistakes on my behalf so now i have the new one in. 2004 3.5 out of a nissan quest. Everything the same, just the CPS(flywheel) mounts at the bottom of the motor rather then the side across from the radiator.

The problem is, when i 1st got the swap in, everything was running ok i guess, as it does now. Idles fine, starts normal doesnt misfire, but now ive noticed, after about 5800rpms, my car doesnt pull. 3rd-4th gear, itll take about 3secs to get from 6k to 6.5k.

Ive checked my
-fuel pressure(its holding steady),
-fuel pump is good from what i can tell because fuel psi doesnt drop off at redline.
-battery voltage is fine
-Brand new KS(470ohm resistor is in right now)
not getting ANY codes for CPS(ref),CPS(POS), Coolant temp sensor, CamPS. Voltage is normal on my MAF and TPS
-No vaccum leaks
NOTHING!!
I also noticed this problem on my last motor a little before it blew, it would still pull but started getting weaker uptop.

The only thing that has been reused on the motor is the gutted UIM, fuel injectors,fuel rail and cam adapters. Ive even tried swapping ECU's and with the JWT ECU with a 7.2k rev limit and 17* timing, i did a 13.89@100.1 with a 2.01 60ft? WTF


SO my question is, is this CAM timing related, or possibly IGNITION timing related?

im completely lost, only side note is that one of the cam adapters(intake side on bank 1 near the firewall), the dowel pin was wearing out the predrilled hole on the aluminum adapter, and looked like it might come out. So i had to use 1 size bigger stud to rethread it and POSSIBLY the stud could also be bending/leaning and causing delayed/advance timing on the intake on the rear bank. IDK


Also, my intake note/tone is ALOT louder than normal at WOT.

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

damn, this sucks.
but hey, if youre worried about your cam adaptors, i wouldnt feel comfortable selling mine to you, lol. they were stripped out also. But i was told that as long as the sprockets are bolted down tight, that the dowel pins dont really hold any weight...is this true?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Might be a Ignition Timing issue, do you have a way of logging the timing? maximaspd85, iv only seen one case where the adapters failed, might have been installer error, who knows, but it was one very rare case, i truly do not believe the dowel pins hold the pressure, its mostly the tightening of the bolt.

Ghostmax, try what JClaw in a recent post on his 1/4 thread said:

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

"Also, my intake note/tone is ALOT louder than normal at WOT."

Tell us about your IM. Are you using the VIAS w/ a window switch? If your window switch is malfunctioning, your top end will be terrible and your intake sound will change.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Looks like he's using a SSIM.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

whats your AFR like?

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

well im using the same UIM i used to run the 13.5. i swear it sounds and feels like its related to the intake system somehow mut idk where. not sure of my afrs bt have tried changing my fuel psi from 34 to 45 to 50 to 60 and nothing helps.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

And what system are you using? SSIM? Block off plate? VIAS with window switch?

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

its a gutted manifold and cut-off butterfly valve. SSIM i guess. its a rainy day today so cant do much but going to try and swap out the LIM and UIM for another or even just checking mine for something clogging it i wish we thre codes for these thing like jumped/bad timing or lack of power.lol

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

ghost did u read my post?

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

Do you have any way to datalog timing? That would make it way easier to narrow down your issue.

Also, if the sound is weird and it's not pulling up top, see if something is clogging your intake track (all the way to your filter). You could have sucked something into your MAF screen and be hurting on flow badly.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

This seems very unlikely but... what your describing sounds almost exactly like what my friends G35 is doing.

He has an AEM CAI routed to the lower grill area with no bypass. His mom drove it through a large puddle and it hydrolocked of course.

I figured the motor was a complete loss, but he begged me to try something. So I drained the oil/water from the drain plug. Took off the upper and lower intake manifolds and turned the crank to push the water out, changed all plugs, new oil, etc. I put everything back together and turned the key. The car started up and idled perfect. No misfire or anything.

To make a long story short, the car drives normal under light throttle and low RPMs. But if you floor it, at around 4k-5krpm the intake gets extremely loud and the car has little to no power. It almost sounds like the car has an exhaust leak by the driver side intake manifold. But it's coming from the intake.

I know it's a different car, different timing setup, different intake manifold, etc. But the cars are doing almost exactly the same thing so I just thought I'd throw it out there.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

i REALLY appreciate all the help guys! the rain has stop so i going out to swap my entire intake and MAF,and UIM. going to take the resistor out of the KS wire and mount the KS ontop of the NEG battery terminal(correct?) and screw it down. also going to check the oil for water and try what you did essential. i have no splashguard on the driverside so its possible that happened

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Well, unless your filter was completely submerged in water while your car was running, you didnt hydrolock. You'd know if it happened.

datdude20

iTrader: (17)

...i hope u fix it soon man......ill be waiting

VQpwrdSpeC

I didnt have my splash guard on with my CAI and it rained pretty heavily the other day. I didn't hit any puddles but just from the tire throwing water into my filter I got A LOT of moisture built up on the MAF and at higher RPM's it just fell on its face. Made it home, sprayed some MAF cleaner on it and let everything dry up and its good to go. Moral of story put your splash guard on if you have a CAI

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

why do you have a resistor on the KS?

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

The 470k ohm resistor bypasses the KS completely. Fools the ECM into thinking his KS is in working order and as a result doesnt pull timing. So in regards to the OP removing the resistor and hooking up the KS to the negative battery post, it wont make any difference because the resistor performs the same function.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

ok, thank you for clearing that up, i wasnt 100% sure they did the samething.

I only got to change out the MAF today due to a personal to-do list for the day but that yeilded little to no difference in the performance. it felt a little smoother but not any faster. Going to try the UIM and LOWER tomorrow

its just weird to me because just the other day i beat a modded 08 3.5 altima coupe and i had 3 passengers, chrome 19"s and 2-12" subs and now im losing to a RX-8 with an exhaust

is there any sensor on the car that can read incorrectly but not throw a code(CPS,CMPS,CTS)?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Without any logs, your going to be guessing your way to insanity. Try getting a wideband, and try getting a obd scanner, so you can log your timing, a/f, and see wats really going on. you should check your compression on that motor, just to be sure its fine. What octane fuel are you using?
and you sayed you have tried different fuel pressures and still no difference? i really hope you knew what your a/f was like. Your going to end up with another broken motor man.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

You're the latest victim of the sh&tty nissan knock sensor. Ground the knock sensor to the battery, reset your ECU and drive 200-300 miles. The ECU will gradually re-advance timing. Give it a few hundred miles of mixed driving. I use 94 octane for safety.

I changed my tensionner on Sunday, reset the ECU and drove it around for a few hundred km's. Timing seems to come back on gradually. The computer doesnt care about redundant sensors, it only cares about the MAF, KS and the 3 timing sensors. I am driving around with no TPS

The thing has ***** now.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

yea i use 91+ octane ALL the time and can someone clear this up for me, im a little lost when it comes to this section of maxima-ology. Im hearing the 470ohm trick does the samething as grounding the KS to the negative battery, but now it seems as JClaw is saying otherwise. Any solid information? (not doubting at all though JClaw)

Streetz- Im going to try using my cousins WBo2 and a Autozone free scanner that has a freeze frame data screen. If i can get a hold of my buddys snap-on scanner so i can data log it. with my Fuel PSI, ive tryed all different psi levels on the dyno and street and have grown to be able to tell when the car is running lean. Sad enough to say, that how it feels after 5800rpm. like it has NO fuel/leaning out. even with my idle fuel psi as high as 51psi.

I tried it again last night(on a closed course) and as i said the cars lack of power is more noticable in each higher gear, I got to 135-140mph in 5th and the car literally just sat there, even going down a slight slope. I have pictures in videos of my car EASILY going to 150~160mph(i have the 2001 SE gauge cluster)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...IDEO_016-1.flv

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

i dont need a good running car to beat you.

(oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooowwww! !!)

just a ECU back in my car and 240sx wheels

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

When you ground the KS to the battery post, you're essentially just converting the KS to a glorified resistor. At the battery post, the KS cant sense knock (or what it thinks is knock) so it makes the ECU think that everything is running perfectly fine. The 470k ohm resistor does the same thing. I dont think Jclaw is denying this, just that both methods give the same results.

FWIW, disconnecting the TPS on an auto is going to cause some issues.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

o,ok. so FWIW, so i just disconnect my TPS to see if my car still feels the same and if it does then its possibly the TPS?

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

To test the TPS, disconnect it, loosen the screws and adjust it so that it reads close to 500 ohms at idle and near 4k ohm at WOT. Then reconnect the harness and switch the key to the on position but dont turn on the car, back probe the TPS harness and slowly go from idle to WOT on the throttle body. You should see a linear rise in voltage all the way to WOT. There shouldnt be any dips.

If you have a solid idle and your car drives fine under 5800rpm, I honestly dont think its a TPS issue. Most TPS problems are most noticeable at idle.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

nope not the TPS then, it reads fine

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

To me it sounds like your car is choking for air or not getting enough fuel at the higher rpms. Have you tested all your injectors? It's among one of the items transferred over from your previous setup.

Also use a vacuum gauge to check for exhaust restrictions (clogged cat if you're running with a cat).

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

what you're stating is EXACTLY how i feel. Im going to swap out my injectors(maybe the last motor+nitrous messed them up). Check my fuel lines and my gasket between my ypipe and gutted cat because it sounds like its leaking but isnt.. maybe its clogging the exhaust flow or something.

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

Check the entire length of the exhaust for any dings that might be causing a restriction. You could rule out the exhaust system post y-pipe by removing the cat and running open y-pipe to see if there's any difference.

datdude20

iTrader: (17)

u do need good running car....

that rx8 said otherwise...

stop stuntin

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

well,i checked the spark plugs,TPS, wiring vaccum leaks,ran open ypipe and check the lower intake manifold and fuel lines. everythings looks normal BUTTTTT all the spark plugs seem to be white, like its running lean(also how it feels)so i think it just might be my timing.

can anyone confirm this? because if it is,ill redo it in the morning. BUT does it sound like ignition timing or cam? because if its cam timing, imma wait until i order(if needed) some new adapters

essential1

iTrader: (5)

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...tyle-vq35.html

The Godfather

iTrader: (2)

Do you have 3.0 timing assembly or 3.5 timing assembly? My previous hybrid 3.5 swap with 3.0 timing, was always dead in the upper Rpms. With new full 3.5 swap and 3.5 timing assembly, problem is solved.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

Whoa, I would do some additional troubleshooting before tearing it down. A vacuum pump and a timing light are your friends.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

well it only takes me about 3hours to tear it down and put it back together. ill try switching my fuel lines to return styleand try checking my timing again with a better timing light. ill let you guys know shortly what happens. but with a vaccum leak,shouldnt my car idle high or bouncy or

JAMAICANLOVRBOY

iTrader: (3)

yes this happened to me once, a piece of the filter fell off and got stuck on the MAF screen. very rare it happens, but its likely

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

correct its a hybrid swap. I understand that with a full swap i will benefit alot more but with my previous 3.5, it ran fine

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

I didn't say anything about a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak would cause the car to idle low and be bouncy. I was talking about the vacuum the engine produces. Low vacuum would indicate a problem with valve timing and tell you of problems related to rings and gaskets. It can also tell you of exhaust backpressure problems.

http://www.gregsengine.com/vacuum.htm

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the link, its very useful. Today im going to switch my rail to returnstyle and check my fuel lines and change my fuel filter. Im curious though, if there is a kink/downsized(too small) of a line adaptercould that cause the lean fuel affect in upper rpms even if the fuel psi holds?
like just enough fuel to hold pressure but not enough to supply the fuel to keep up with the injector pulse at 5800rpms+?