I want to use the suprastick as a standalone unit. I have the TC hooked up to the SS as well as the WOT relay for line pressure. I tried running with the TCM unplugged and the tranny shifts at full line pressure all the time and it seems as though the overrun clutch remains engaged when it normally wouldnt. Is there any way to get around this? Can those of you who are running the SS as a standalone unit jump in here and push me in the right direction.

 

I have my drop resistor permanently removed so i don't know if it would work or not with the SS. It may need the stock TCM to work properly. I just have my 1-2 shift at a very low speed so it doesn't jerk the shift, ie 5-7 mph at 5-10% throttle for the street.

The overrun clutch I have connected to a separate switch and use it at the track to slow the car down at the end of the 1/4 mile. If I remember correctly it needs to be on to disengage but I'm not 100% sure it been a long time since I installed.

 

Thanks for the input. Are your downshifts harsh without the drop resistor? When I roll to a stop and it downshifts from 2nd to 1st it's pretty noticeable, like a jolt.

 

That is the overrun clutch, connect it to a switch and 12v, when its on ie 12v connected the overrun clutch it will not slow it down and cause the harsh downshifts.

 

I disconnected the TCM today and set it up just as you described. I dropped the 1-2 shift speed down to about 10 km/h and and hooked up the overrun clutch to a 12v switch and it works flawlessly. The 1-2 shift is still pretty hard but that's probably because of the modified VB.

 

You may want to drop it a bit more for the 1-2, I know its a bit sluggish but sure beats the harsh shifts and it doesn't change the WOT shifts.

When I was shifting manually I often started in 2nd just to eliminate the harsh 1-2.

Glad its working a bit better for you, takes a little tuning to get it the way you like it.

 

It might actually be possible to control line pressure to a certain extent with the SS. Full line pressure occurs when there's no voltage to the solenoid. So if we were to hook up the solenoid to a 12v source passing through the WOT relay on the SS, we could cut that signal at any throttle position to get full pressure. For example if we set the WOT relay at 10% throttle, the relay would pass ground to the line pressure solenoid at 11% and higher throttle value for full line pressure and anything 10% and less, the relay would pass a 12v signal for lower pressure. The only issue with this is that the voltage is not variable. I will have to do a little playing around.....

 

I have found that the line pressure solenoid makes no difference once you disconnect the drop resistor.

See what you determine.

 

Yes you're right. I tried out my theory but it made no difference.
Are there any adverse affects to running full line pressure all the time?

 

Well 3 years of hard racing and mine is still going strong, plus my DD'ing.

 

I just wired in my Suprastick. I am testing it in manual mode right now. After changing the solenoid settings to the one meant for Nissan's, it now has the correct shift order.

But I can't get it to shift into 4th gear. Does anybody have any ideas why this would happen? I only drove the car up to around 40mph, but it shouldn't matter. I haven't given voltage to the overrun clutch yet. My TC lockup is controlled separately by a switch.

The Suprastick display on my laptop shows it shifting into 4th, but my transmission doesn't respond.

Thanks.

 

For those reading on, the overrun clutch needs 12v in order to shift into 4th.

 

Yes that's right. With the overrun switch off (0v) it will not go into 4th. Are you going to keep the TC lockup solenoid hooked to a switch or hook it up to the SS?

 

I will eventually allow the SS to control lockup. But right now, I have to use my switch.

 

Ok you got it on your own, good stuff. Not what one would think for the overrun switch.

Also while I remember I have tried locking up the tc. Not something I wold recommend for racing. It is ok for the highway and does the job it was designed for. However when I put down any serious power it will not hold, so I just continue on the way I did before, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

I had the SS lock up the TC at 4500 RPM in 2nd and 3rd at WOT to see if there was any noticeable difference in acceleration. My data logs showed that the RPM was a lot choppier with it locked up and 60-100 times did not improve. I also noticed that it adds a lot of delay between gears even with the lockup delay set to 100ms. Without the lockup, the 2nd to 3rd shift happens immediately but with the TC locked, 2nd has to unlock, shift to 3rd, rev a little and then lock again in 3rd. It's definitely not a smooth transition between gears.

 

Oh, I didn't mean locking it at WOT. I didn't play around with that a while ago, but it's too tough on the transmission I feel. I never had it slip and disengage when at WOT though. Is that what happened with you?

I only meant I wanted the SS to control lockup by itself while under highway cruising conditions.

Also, when I do my dyno runs on the street, I do a long 2nd gear pull with the converter locked up the entire way. I do not shift though with it locked. I had to lock the TC while doing my dyno pull since it created a MUCH smoother dyno reading. With it unlocked, the power would spike way too much when I first rolled on the gas. But in order to get a long perfect dyno reading, it had to be locked.

 

I should've been more clear. I didnt mean it slipped and disengaged. The SS will disengage the TC before a shift, shift up, wait for the user entered delay time (100ms in my case) and then lock the TC again. Although it sounds like it would work smoothly, it doesnt for me. Just makes it sound like the tranny is hunting until the TC has finally locked up in the next gear.

On a side note, I noticed you have done a VB mod. How are part throttle shifts with the SS hooked up and the drop resistor unplugged? Specifically the 1-2 and 2-3.

My 2-3 shift slams in much harder than the 1-2 and I wanted to know if it's due to my VB mod.

 

I was replying to Jime's post about the TC lockup.

My VB mod was already had full line pressure. So having the SS connected (ie, drop resistor unplugged), there was no difference in how it shifts.

My part throttle 1-2 shift is very harsh. It bangs into the next gear if you allow it to shift while at low throttle around 20mph. But, if you go ahead and get on the gas and let it shift, instead of a harsh bang, it's more a quick and smooth snap into the next gear. The 2-3 shift has always been less harsh. But it's still as close to an instant shift as you can get.

But regardless if you have the VB mod or not, unplugging the DR will give you full line pressure. Now depending what level of VB mod you got, you may not have already been at full line pressure. It may have been a pretty mild VB mod.