A few years back i had my 00vI put in by Stephen Max. Its worked fine all this time but lately i had been feeling it not opening.

YES, ive searched the threads on 00vi install, blah, blah, blah so trolls go away



I'm not a gearhead so i went by the threads and checked the following:

All wires are still hooked up, i checked them all except for the ones that runs under the dash towards the ECU (but it feels "in" i couldnt pull it out or anything. grey unused, Black grounded, red and white into the car, yellow to the VI and the other wire from VI going back to the red wire (This is how stephen max did it. makes sense since its the same as going to the battery) everything is still shrink wrapped/soldered, no broken wires

I opened the summit switch case and with power on the red light comes on. OK

Removed the ground wire and turned car on again, no red light, so ground is good, OK

Reved all the way up, no green light. Original setting was 000, 800, and 6000 all switched "ON"

I turned off each one and revved, no light, put it to 2000 , etc, etc tried pretty much any setting u can think of, no light. Played with the fine tune screw also in different settings, no light.

So im thinking bad RPM switch now? reset ECU? (ya im just guessing on that one since there is a wire going towards it and i know some people use ecu for the wire) like i said im not an expert. Or that one of the wires that runs inside the car somehow came off and i just cant tell.


Thoughts? opinions?

 

I'm not too familiar with the summit switch, but I didn't here you mention the green wire, this would be the rpm signal from the ecu, attaches to (IIRC) the green/white wire on pin #5 at the ecu. Check to make sure that is all there.

Also, I know this sounds stupid, but keep it simple first. Rev the engine to activation while you watch the little lever on the passanger side of the manifold. Is it moving? If it's not put a volt meter or test light on the two wires going to the selenoid, when you rev it to activation does it have power? If not then double check the wiring (As it sounds you have) and if it comes down to it it's probably the switch. With the whole green light not coming on it probably is, assuming the tach signal is good.

 

Hmm, I am no 00vi expert considering I haven't even started my swap yet, but from the sound of it, it definitely seems like a wiring issue to me.

Can you rev it and look under the hood? Maybe it is just the light is burnt out and it actually is actuating the VI?

 

you can also check the actual vias by just hooking up a 12v source. if you hear a click you know its working. also try hooking up a 12v source when the car is running to see if the arm is actually functioning. If that is all good then you know its your rpm switch wiring.

Also say it is all working and your light is just burnt out and you still dont feel the power that you use to have. Did you ever do the vias fix?

 

As far as I know, and according to Tatankos site, there is no green wire for the Summit switch. There is a white wire that should tap into the tachometer signal for the ECU.

I would initially check that wire. Next, keep your activation to 000, 800 [or 900] and 6000.

If the green light is not coming on, its safe to say that there will be no signal to the VIAS(the thing on the 00VI that opens the valve).

 

Ya ill rip out everything under the console and check those wires tomorrow. Not sure where Stephen Max did the wire, either TAM or ECU. Makes the most sense because seeing as the wires run near the peddles maybe i hit it with my foot and unhooked it from the connections.

And yes while reving past activation the arm doesnt move on the VIAS so the light isnt just burned out. Ill hook a meter to all the wires tomorrow and make sure there voltage also.

I dunno it was just wierd that it "stopped" working all of a sudden. So it has to be a wire dissconnected by hitting it or the Summit just went bad on me.

 

It's possible that you have a broken cups, this is a known problem but nothing that can be fix with JB weld. Inside the VIAS there is a cup where the swirl valve sit in, the way the cup is hold into the actuator is very flimsy and known to break after a while, it is fairly easy to fix.

 

So i went out after work today and pulled covers from ECU and checked the RPM wire that runs to the green/white wire on ECU. It was still soldered and connected.

I went and pulled the top off the rpm switch and pulled out the board to check the solder points where each wire is connected since my ground had been pulled out once and i had to re-solder it in. Everything was fine and dandy. i decided to clean my TB while i was dinking around and pulled my car battery out for room to work. Cleaned my TB and put everything back together cause its about to storm here. Connected my battery back up and turned the car on one last time to just see if the red light was still on. It was on so i said screw it ill just check it again for kicks.

Low and behold it works now, green light, arm activation, ding ding!

Sooooo... wth caused it to start working again you think? Was it because i pulled my battery? Reset something having to do with the RPM in the ECU?

No clue but im happy now..

 

*Update*

Noticed the side of the box was cracked like somebody had put weight on it (probly the douchebags that did my starter and clutch about 2 months ago. Even tho the right light was on, when i put even slight pressure on the end of the box to make it whole again the red light got "brighter" and the 00VI would only activate with the "brighter" red light.

So im guessing the circuit board was flexed or something. I bound the box all up, made the wires all secure and i get the steady BRIGHT red light now.

So moral of the story is a light can "light" up, but it can always be brighter...? lol