I probed the connectors on the Injector harness and all the injector channels are getting 12v.

In response to your PM, the cluster lights stay on indefinetely.

 

You're getting voltage for the injectors on connector B with the ignition off??

Are you by any chance getting voltage on the injector out wires on connector C?

 

I'm getting ~5v on the input wires with the ignition key off.

No voltage on the output wires.

 

I dont think you should be getting any voltage at the input wires with the ignition key in the off position. The FSM only states that you would see 11-14v pulses when the engine is running but doesnt state the voltage with the ignition off. Did you ground the injector ground along with the main EU ground?

 

I grounded them both together to the ECU ground. Could this be the problem?

 

That's what you're supposed to do. I just ran out and back probed my connector B and I'm not getting any voltage at all on the injector IN or OUT wires with the ignition off which is how I assumed it would be. I also tried it with the ignition on and I got battery voltage on the injector IN wires.

 

Hmm okay.

Is it possible for constant/abnormal voltage to be attributed to a bad ground?

 

So I just tried this again and I'm not sure why, but...

Key in the OFF position, probed injector inputs/outputs on EU connectors. No voltage. WTF.

 

How about the dash lights? Still on?
Try wiggling the harness around to see if you have an intermittent short somewhere and then back probe again to see if anything has changed.

 

This was with the idiot lights off. When the idiot lights are on, regardless of where the key is, the car things its in the ON position and that's when I see the injector voltages.

Help...

 

Yes that makes sense, and that should be expected. The question is, how did you get the lights to go off? Or did they go off on their own? How long do they usually remain on for after the key is turned to the off position.

 

They'll stay on until I manually pull connector B or the injector fuse.

 

So when you said you checked it with the idiot lights off, did you pull connector B? Check connector B while its connected.

 

I checked connector B and I was getting voltage when the key was ON/idiot lights on.

I just reverted my wiring back to stock, by joining the Emanage input/output wires together. Car starts and runs just fine. Defective EU?

I'm gonna look into having a PnP harness made.

 

Sounds like it. If you're absolutely positive that your wiring is spot on, then I think its safe to assume that the unit is defective. You triple checked the jumpers right?

You can use bullet connectors or d-sub connectors like Dandymax to make a pnp harness. It will make trouble shooting a lot easier since it wont render your car useless in the case of a unit that's hardwired.

I remember Dandymax telling me that it was very common to buy a used EU and have it turn out to be defective. I experienced that first hand.

 

Yeah, the jumpers are correct.

I was in a crisis situation and needed the car to be operational today, so I actually cut the EU harness and reconnected the stock ECU back together.

This CONFIRMS my initial hardwiring into the ECU was correct because I actually cut/reconnected the input/output wires from the EU itself, instead of attempting to reconnect them close to the ECU. The car started right up and is running fine now.

Jeeze, what a pain. I'm probably gonna have a PnP harness made or talk to Dandy and see if he has more info on it. I got the shaft on this used EU, and I might actually give the SMT-6 or SMT-7 a try later on. Until then I think it's time for me and Ms. AE to take a short break from each other, after being ***** deep in wiring for two days.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I appreciate it greatly

 

Bump. Does anyone have any information for getting support over the phone or through email from either GReddy or a shop that can test/repair the E-manage/harness or possibly get ahold of a refurbished one?

 

Time to find some down time with your car,







Cause you be needing to hook up this EU that is running my car

 

POK you sir are a boss.

Well since I essentially cut the EU's wiring harness in half and just connected the input/output signals together to start the car, the external wiring should be correct. Does anybody see the legitimacy in my assumption?

The PM that Product of Korea sent me indicated that a few of the jumpers were in the wrong position, so I will go over those as per Dandy's writeup and the GReddy manual.

I nearly shat myself at work when I read this.

 

It should have been the first thing to check. I could've sworn in our PMs I mentioned opening it up and having a look....maybe not.

Hopefully this will also take care of the warning lights that remained on after removing the key.

 

This was my bad cuz since it was pulled out of a 2000 my dumbass assumed that the jumpers would be right.

It should, the warning lights, fuel pump and injectors are all on the same circuit. Having the right jumper settings will turn that circuit on and off accordingly.

Thanks a lot Whlimi, I really appreciate all your help and everyone elses.

 

I wouldnt assume that your wiring should be on.

I will give you my explination after i get back from work.

Plus its to early in the morning to be thinking that hard lol

 

It sounds like you have it all worked out, but I just wanted to reply to this with the answer YES, well sorta, I don't know if it has to do with the BCM or ignition circuit or what, but I was working on a 5.5 gen last week that was doing this. I had the outer timing cover off and I noticed that when the key was turned on and then off all of the cluster idiot lights would stay on. Touching the timing cover grounds (intake manifold on 4th gens) to a ground again would spark once and the lights would then go out. He may have had some additional audio equipment possibly, and he also had a grounding kit that ran to a weird box.

 

Sounds good, I'd be glad to hear your thoughts on this.

Thanks for your input. And yeah if it was a bad injector ground my injectors wouldn't pulse properly and would stay on (constant voltage), which is what Whilmi had issues with with his used EU. This is what we thought it was, since when you pull the injector fuse the lights would go out.

Waiting for Product of Korea to send me that PM...lol

As for wiring, I probably shouldn't assume any more stuff just because assumptions got me into this mess but my injectors and ignition are definitely right, according to the pin locations on Dandy's writeup, and the input/output lines are going in the right direction.

Wires that are tapped are only monitored signals so they wouldn't actually affect whether the car starts or not, correct?

 

My whole theory is....

Say you tapped into the wrong ground lets say(as a example) and obviously you think its the right one.

Well if you hook the two ends back together and all is well, whats to say you had the right connection to the ecu to begin with??

All im saying is i wouldnt assume your wiring is right cause you could of well just tapped or intercept into the wrong wire(s)

And yes and no to the just tapping theory

The reason why i say no is depending on how you "tap" your wiring.
Say you cut and splice each side. and you have another wire cut and spliced and they are the same color and you accidently hooked up the wrong end.....

But other then that scenario i would have to say no it would affect your car starting up.

Im not sure on how you wired your EU up. But when i did it both times i cut and spliced one connection at a time to make sure that the connection is the correct one and i dont get it confused with any other connection. And i triple checked to make sure that it was the right pin #(both off the EU and ECU) then i would check the coloring then go back to make sure that it was the right pin again.

Also for starters if you want to loose a couple of connections to make less wiring for the install skip the water temp and KS or intake temp tap. You can always hook them up later if need be but it isnt required that you have them hooked up for startup

Sorry if its a bunch of jib because im not the best at trying to explain stuff and my wording is not the best. Im more of a hands on type of person(no homo) lol

 

I'll recheck all my wiring, and leave the KS/IAT/analog voltage inputs alone (for now).

Initially how I did the install was using the pin locations on my ECU from Dandy's writeup and a spare ECU connector I had labeled (pulled out of the car with the Emanage).

Referenced the EU's wire colors (because they're standard, sometimes factory ECU wire colors are different between cars) to the pin locations on the stock ECU for all my injectors/coilpacks. Did only one connection at a time.

Either way I'll recheck the jumper settings when you ship it back to me and recheck my wiring.

 

well before i send it back, I think i am going to try and put it back onto the original setting on jumper #10 to see if i can even start the car and see if it works just to eliminate the possiblity that it might not of been the jumper.

 

Sounds good. Take note of the warning lights when you pull the key out as well. If the car will not start, pull the key out and see if your SES/ABS/idiot lights come on and your power windows still work.

 

Ok i will do. Though im sure A33 and A32's have there diffrences. But then again.......

Ironic thing is i have to deal with one of my idiot light(Battery light came on today ) but i think my alty is going bad due to ingesting some oil and alot of water(couple of days ago) But my car drives normal

 

Thanks man! Please let us know what happens!

 

Might want to take care of that ASAP. I got some oil on my last alternator as well and a few weeks later I was stranded at a Honda dealership. At least you got the battery light. The only warning I got was dimming lights and extremely slow power window motors about 10 mins before she quit.

 

Oh no, not a Honda dealership! lol

 

Sounds like your wiring should be fine. That's exactly how I did mine and its a good way to minimize the chances of making a mistake. Are you still thinking about using some kind of connector between the harness and EU to make it plug and play?

 

I'm thinkin bullet connectors probably.

 

Yeah i know im not even going to drive it to work. I have to address the oil leak first. So i wont even replace it till i fix the oil leak.

When i put the 3.5 together i lost the gasket for the VTC solenoid so i just used atv. I ordered one last night and i have a spare alty in the parts car.

 

Well i hooked up the EU again. I put jumper 10 back to 1-2.

And it started up. It just acted like their was no maf(couldnt rev past 3k). But it deffently started up

 

Since the wiring is suspect, I would suggest that MoncefA33 hook up the EU with just the taps connected. Leave the coils and injectors as is and see if he can get the car started. If it starts up fine, the next step would be to have the EU take control of the coils and leave the injectors alone. If you get the idiot lights, check all the ignition wiring again. If it starts and he's able to advance timing, we can assume ignition wiring is correct. Next would be the injectors and if the problem pops up then we have at least narrowed it down to the injector wiring.

I'm not sure if you can start up the EU with the coil/injector wires disconnected but this is what I would try.

 

Okay so basically I go page by page on the EU and see if I can start it up after each step.

Power/Gnd/MAF/TPS. Check result.

Coilpacks. Check result.

Injectors. Check result.

 

+1

Not a bad idea at all.

 

Exactly, but I would include all the taps in the first step, not just MAF and TPS. This way you eliminate all tapped connections before moving on to the intercepted ones.