Okay I'm in some trouble here.

I have an Emanage Ultimate hooked up to my ECU, the software is upto date and all the connections/jumper settings/resistors are correct. It powers on and the interaction light is on when it's hooked to my computer.

I cannot get it to come online and talk to the computer though. Does anyone have any insight?

 

Since you've given us no info, let's see.

Have you or have you not done any diagnostics as to why it won't connect?

Have you tried different USB cables? Different USB ports? Un/reinstalled the EU software?

What operating system? What version?

Have you tried another computer? Tried a PCMCIA USB card?

 

For diagnostics um not really. I went as per DandyMax's writeup step by step. I installed the Emanage Ultimate CD (v2.16).

Used the same USB cable with different ports, no luck.

Windows XP/SP2

...and my gauge cluster stays lit up with the key out of the car.

 

Your gauge cluster? All of the illumination, or just the cluster? Are we to assume that you've turned the headlight stalk all the way to off?

Are we to assume that you've double AND TRIPLE checked your wiring? Obviously something is messed up if it's staying lit.

Again, why have you not tried multiple USB cables? Different laptops?

If you're only going to do some diagnostics but not others, then how do you expect anyone to help?

 

My idiot lights on my dash, like the SES/ABS/seatbelt/etc lights stay on when the key is out of the car....

I'm gonna try a different cable and report back.

I've done all my wiring in stages and have made absolutely sure all my connections are consistent with the wiring diagrams.

 

Update. Tried Belkin cable with no luck.

 

Do the windows still work when this happens?

You've got an ignition feed touching a B+ feed somewhere, or your ignition switch is faulty.

Check your wiring again.

 

What's a B+ feed?

 

B+ == battery positive.

 

I had to tap 12v+ from the Emanage to the 12v on the Emanage harness, this is the only thing I did that caused the problem.

Could it have been the wrong pin? I tapped pin 110 (top upper right hand corner on 5th gen ECU)? Is this a constant power source or is it switched?

 

Pin 110 gets a constant feed, not switched.

Again, do your windows and any other ignition only devices work with the key out?

 

My wideband (switched) and radio (also switched) do not work when the key is out.

 

The issue I'm having with no connection, does it require a special USB driver I don't have?

 

It could be, who knows.

Does Windows detect a new device when you plug it in? Is it listed in Device Manager?

 

Did you update the firmware on the e-manage itself??

You should have to install a driver to your computer for the usb to work.

When you did your software you should have to install the actual driver for the usb.

You should of had one of those compatabilty warnings if you did

Its been a while since i had to do it but i dont remeber the exact details.

Maybe someone else will chime in and help

 

Yes it does. Windows will not detect the EU unless you do this first.
If you dont have it on your EU CD, PM me and I'll email you the file.

 

The firmware on the EU (according to who I bought it from) is v2.00.

I can't update the firmware on the EU if the laptop can not talk to the EU.

I installed the driver included in the software but I'm not having any luck still. I don't have any compatibility warnings, although a red flag was raised here because when I initially did it Windows said "found new hardware" and opened up the hardware wizard program. I canceled out of that and then it said my hardware was not installed properly.

^That right there is my problem, and it seems like if I just reinstall the driver it will not work. Is there a way to revert to the Windows hardware wizard and just point it to my Emanage USB driver?

Or could I get the driver from whlimi, install it accordingly, plug in the USB, run EU software, turn car on, and they will connect?

 

That's the problem, because you canceled it out.

Go into the Device Manager (with the EU plugged in), it'll likely show up with a yellow exclamation point or some sort of obvious colored note there (haven't dealt with Windows driver issues in a long time, but that should be right).

Right click, and either do 'update driver', or delete it. Then, dis/reconnect the EU USB cable, and allow it to install the proper driver.

If you need a step by step, I'm always on AIM or IRC.

 

Thank you sir, I'll try that tomorrow when I get back to the shop.

Now my goofy idiot lights that stay on after I pull the key out. I checked and my windows work with the key out of the car as well...

 

There's got to be a constant power wire touching an ignition wire, somewhere.

It could be something as simple as two solder joints poking out of electrical tape, or something as random as the EU itself having shorted out internally.

 

So looks like I'll be quintuple checking my wiring.

Random note; this is by far one of the most stressful things I've ever done on a car. In theory it's easy and soldering is not bad but getting Microsoft to work with anything just sucks.

I'm surrounded by MS...at home, at work...in my phone (Windows Mobile) and now my car will be tuned off of Microsoft. Yay...

Edit. Pmohr, what would be an example of an ignition wire (switched 12v) that's near the ECU?

 

Just overlooking a simple little thing like a driver can give you a heart attack and make you turned off one of these things for a long time. But i know once you get that thing running you will have a laptop in your car for a while.......

Eh having two engines apart at the same time for me is the stressfull enough thing especially when the guys that are helping you are domestic guys who know nothing about a vq35 let alone how to put one in a A32 and question everything that your doing "you need the pilot bushing tranny rests on it'' "are you sure the timings right" "why cant we just use the vq35 timing"

 

lol at "why can't we just use VQ35 timing". Yeah that does sound stressful.

Update, I can unplug the EU from the harness with the key out of the car and the idiot lights on my cluster shut off. Is it more likely that something is shorted out inside the EU or is it something else?

 

Where did you pick up the EU? New or used?

I had to go through two used EUs before one actually worked. The first one caused the injectors to remain open constantly.

If you bought it used, go along the harness and verify that all the wires are still insulated and not shorting out. Instead of disconnecting all the connectors at the EU at once, do it one at a time. For example, disconnect connector A first and see if the lights go out, then go to B and then try C. This will narrow it down to a certain group of wires which you can check.

 

Got it used, it was removed from the previous vehicle (2000 Maxima) fully functional.

What happened with your first one exactly? New/used?

Connector B is the one that makes my lights go out, so I'll check that one first.

 

Connector B is your main power supply connector. What I would do next is disconnect one wire at a time from the ECM and find out which specific wire causes the lights to go out. Start with B+ feed because that's most likely causing the issue. If that's the case, connect the EU B+ wire to another source instead of pin 110 and see if the problem goes away.

My dud EU was used. It communicated with the EU software but the car wouldnt start because the injectors were pissing fuel the whole time the ignition was on. I'm sure the injector driver ground on the EU was shorted out and was sending a constant ground to the injectors instead of pulses.

 

Start with B+ feed? Where is the battey positive feed at here?

So just test one wire one by one on connector B. There are only four wires on this connector that are being used to tap into the ECU (12v, MAF, TPS, Gnd), the rest of them are injectors, which I don't think would affect 12v operation?

What other source should I try? Are there other pins on the stock ECU that supply +12v? Am I looking for constant or switched 12v?

Ouch, so did you hear your injectors clicking all the time when you put the key in the on position?

 

I dont have a pinout for the a33 ECM but if you get the FSM and look in the EC section, it will tell you all the pins that are 12v power. But first verify that it's in fact the B+ wire on connector B that's causing the issue.

Now that I think of it, if you unplug connector B from the EU and the lights go off, then the short is most likely within the unit. If the issue was within the wiring, it wouldnt matter if you disconnected connector B or not.
Look at page 26 of Dandymax's write up. Its the page with the resistors. Check to make sure nothing is shorting out the pins that go from the board to the harness adapter. Make sure there's not contact between the pins such as a piece of solder or wire.

And no, I didnt hear a clicking because it wasnt an alternating ON/OFF signal. It was just ON, so one click as soon as I turn the ignition on and no OFF click until I turned the ignition off.

 

I have the FSM, so I can grab the page that shows the pinouts. Looks like there's one other +12v source, pin 112.

Okay, I'll check that. My ignition resistors were wired outside of the EU, inline with the ignition wires themselves. Would this affect anything?

Oh I gotcha.

 

Pin 110 is supposed to cut power once the key is in the OFF position right?

I would suggest back probing the EU harness to see if you're getting any voltage when the ignition is off.

 

According to pmohr, pin 110 is constant 12v.

The FSM says that Pins 110 and 112 both have 11-14v when the ignition is in the ON position.

Probe the connectors? As in hook up a multimeter and test to see if I have voltage coming out of some of the pins?

 

First use a multimeter to determine if 110 is a constant feed or switched. If you have voltage when the key is in the OFF position then it's a constant B+ and not ignition feed.

 

Alright.

If it is constant, I'm gonna need an ignition feed am I correct?

 

Right, the EU is only supposed to turn on when the ignition is in the ON position. This is just a shot in the dark, remove the fuse for the injectors in the fuse panel and see if the lights go out.

 

If the lights do go out when I pull the injector fuse, what does that mean?

Did I cross or short a wire somewhere in the injector harness?

 

Its possible. I dont know exactly what would happen if you sent voltage through the injector ground wires. The Power Supply Routing in the FSM is a bit overwhelming but it may be possible to send voltage through the injectors (only 16 ohms) and back into the power supply circuit. Most likely I'm wrong but its easy to check, just remove the injector fuse.

 

I'll check that out, I'm heading to the shop this morning to get the car operational and back together.

I'll update this thread accordingly.

 

Nevermind, 110 is indeed switched power.

 

UPDATE

Reinstalled USB driver, communication is fine now.

Idiot lights still stay on. I pulled the injector fuse and all of the lights go off.

So I have the right 12v, but I cannot start the car...

Just pulled the board out of the EU and I see nothing abnormal. It looks exactly like Dandy's on page 26.

 

OK so I guess my assumption was right. Next thing to do is back probe the injector wires for connector B and check for voltage. We need to find out where in the injector circuit you're getting voltage.