So some of the AM regulars have seen my thread about my E-manage Ultimate install and the problems that have accompanied it.

I was having problems with the injector circuit and my car actually not switching off when I switched the key in the off position.

This EU was used, was pulled out of the previous car working fine, shipped carefully, and sat in my closet from December to now.

In the end, I cut the E-manage harness in half, eliminating the wires going into the "box" and just rejoining the input and output lines to loop the critical signals back to the stock ECU (matching GReddy wire colors). Voila, car starts and runs as if I didn't touch a thing.

I've heard/read that people have had really bad luck with used EU's and I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. They go for about $600 new, I paid $400 for mine and I'm pretty much SOL now.

I'm just wondering if I'm gonna get the shaft if I buy a new one and hook it up the same way and one day something happens and leaves my car essentially stranded.

Thoughts?

 

I would assume that most units get damaged because of user error, particularly when its comes to the wiring. It's not hard to short something out if you wire it incorrectly. It could also get damaged during the installation if you dont disconnect the ground wire from the battery.

I purchased my second unit used as well and I've had it for about 10 months now without a problem. You're taking a risk anytime you buy sensitive electronic equipment that's used. A new unit should work fine as long as it's installed properly and every precaution is taken but I cant comment on the longevity of these things. Hopefully people who've used them for a number of years will jump in and give you some piece of mind.

 

Almost every problem I have heard of with the EU has been caused by the user, and not an actual problem with the unit itself. Most problems are caused by improper wiring or handling of the unit. I have had mine installed for a year with zero issues. I also have mine wired in with connectors, so I can easily remove it and go back to stock in about 10 seconds, should any issue occur.

 

What kind of connectors would you recommend? I was told bullet connectors would work. Anything else?

Also, I'm thinking I might actually tune on a VAFC2 for now to just correct my AFRs (~11.9 at WOT, dipping to 10.9 at redline) and I'm curious as to how much whp I could actually gain from just fuel correction on a DE-K. Would I at least be able to hit 220whp with my other mods?

The reason I wanted the EU is Dandy hit over 270 with that and cams and there are other DE-K guys doing 240-250whp on a 3.0L which is what I'm shooting for. I will go back to the E-manage eventually...but I'd like some opinions on more simple devices and their effectiveness (I know timing control is a big thing on these cars).

Is there such a place that is able to test EU's?

 

I used computer D-sub connectors, I used this writeup for inspiration: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=22574140

The problem with an AFC, is that you don't know what it's doing to your timing.

Greddy might be able to test your EU, but you would have to call them about that. Not aware of any other company that does it.

 

Yeah that's true, because when you lean out (reduce MAF signal) on the AFC it advances the timing indirectly. Has this caused a problem for anyone though? Advancing the ignition timing is nice, and if I'm doing that while correcting the AFRs then the only risk I'd run would be knock?

But I never heard about anyone having detonation/pinging/knocking issues when running an AFC and I put 93 in my car so...

I'll call GReddy and ask them *crosses fingers*

 

Ive probley have had my EU for 2 years and in two diffrent cars. I bought it brand new, minus a few wiring mistakes on my second car i havent had any issues. To be honest im actually suprised on how much abuse it has taken.(it was sitting on the floor of my car for a while)

But i totally agree with the electronics comment(on being fragile) I dont know how many amplifiers ive had that just all of a sudden took a dump on me.

This is why i absolutly refuse to buy any electronics use with the exception of computers.

If greddy doesnt try to attempt to test it for you, you can ship the unit out to me and i can see if it works on my car.

either which way i hope you get your issues resolved in a cheap manner

 

You say that like its a common occurance. You have any links other than dandys showing the other deks doing 240+whp?

 

I was one of the first people with the EU(after dandy and a few others, props to them) and mine has been working fine. I tweak with the settings all the time too mine has been fine sitting under the pass seat for years.

 

ColdSHO has dynoed 247whp on EU, hotshot headers, FC exhaust and an intake + gutted IM.

BlackBirdVQ built an I/H/E DE-K with cams and hit 245whp with just fuel adjustments on the EU.

DaveVQ hit 225whp on I/H/E/LRMAF on an auto DE-K and an SAFC, if I remember correctly. I'd be happy with 225whp for now, provided I was going to use a VAFC for tuning.

Regardless of how many DE-Ks have hit 240+, that's what I'm shooting for.

Product of Korea, PM me your shipping address and I'll send it to you if I need to. Thanks a lot man. I'm gonna call GReddy tomorrow, they said today I needed an RA number from an authorized dealer for warranty work but the guy wasn't clear on whether they'd to testing that's not under warranty.

 

This is why I went brand new. The shop I went to for dyno said I was one of few as he's had blown EU's come in all the time. Many people who buy used end up with a faulty EU after installed in a different car.

 

Have any of these people posted these results and are they DynoJet numbers? Just curious... since I don't remember seeing any of them but maybe I missed it... would be nice to see the power curves...

As for reliability, as I said in the PM I don't think that's a concern, I don't know of any failures to speak of and I had mine bouncing around on the floor for 3 years without issue... But yeah, unfortunately buying used is a really risky proposition with these things. I believe half the time that's why they're being sold... someone installed one and damaged it (which is easy if you don't know what you're doing) and then they're selling it off because they think it doesn't work right... I just can't recommend buying these used. Spend the little extra up front and avoid the type of thing you're now dealing with, and many others have also such as whimli...

(not saying that to make you feel bad, just for anyone else who's reading/thinking of getting one)

 

As far as the numbers posted, coldSHO dynoed at 247whp on a mustang dyno and had a guy that didn't seem to know what he was doing (couldn't get the rev limit raised)

Blackbirds car was never cammed and never wired for EU so I'm not sure where those numbers are based off. According to him the car was never even dynoed.


I know what the de-k is capable of. With the proper tune it can become a beast. I've contemplated on buying an EU and seeing this thread if i ever do, I'll make sure to get a new one.

 

I still think there's something wrong with the second unit that I got even though it seems to work flawlessly. For example, to extend the limiter we have to start adding fuel just before the stock limiter. On my unit, I just have to decrease the pulse width by -1.50 or lower and it goes right through the stock limiter. In the data log its one smooth RPM curve. I dont get that transitional hiccup.

Upon startup, it wont make any adjustments unless I tap the throttle or start driving and then it kicks in.
To get my AFR to 12.8-13, I have to decrease the pulse width by as much as -5.00 in some parts of the map and on average about -3.00.
But it seems to work fine

 

Reread my post. BlackBirdVQ stated by PM he built a car with that setup, I didn't say he built it for himself, but it dynoed 245whp with just AFR adjustments.

I'm definately getting a brand new in box one. I have 3.5L cams and StephenMax adapters as well.

 

The way you stated that made it seem as if it was his car. I guess i just assumed

Nonetheless those are nice number. Any chance he might have mentioned what cams were installed?

 

This is the PM I got from BlackBirdVQ. They're Crower cams, and I'm actually not sure on the semantics...lol I think the 245whp number was before the cam install. Whoops haha.

Dandy, I'm not sure which numbers were on a Dynojet.

I have one more question. Assuming the correct physical wiring, parameters, jumper settings, and start up procedure, what could be something else that would screw up an EU?

 

Didnt know there was that many. I'm not doubting the dek potential, I just didnt know there was more than 3 people that decided to put some time into it.

 

Lol, me either. And I was really on the fence about modding this car and barely seeing 220whp on VAFC tune...

But hopefully I'll be well into the 250-260 range on 3.5L cams and the EU, on 93 octane.

Essential your I30 is really sick, I love how it sits and your wheel fitment. Definately wheel ***** material

Edit. Emailed GReddy, will update on progress.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the props.

If you can get that much without a hitch on the dek i might just keep mine. lol. I keep going back and forth about wether or not to drop in the 3.5.

 

The 3.5 has a lot more room for improvement you could say. It'll be a lot easier to hit 250ish whp on a 3.5 but IMO I prefer the challenge of having a 3.0 that'll outrun a 3.5

 

Good Luck

 

Thanks. I'll need it

By the way, do any EUers have any insight on the question I posted earlier:

Thanks!

 

Fried circuit.

 

Well I just called GReddy.

Standard warranty on an EU is 1 year, and I can send mine to them for testing/analysis BUT they do not do repairs there. He said they could have my EU shipped to TRUST Japan (at my expense) for attempted repair but he did not guarantee anything. I asked him for a shipping quote so he's going to give me a call back.

He also gave me a list of authorized dealers that are likely to give me a good price on a brand new one.

I might just say screw it and get a new one, we'll see when he calls back.

Edit. BNIB from a GReddy dealer should be roughly $590+harness.

Edit_2. Is there anyone who knows where I can find a better deal or could get a better deal on an EU?

 

Totally agree. Well said.



As for myself, I bought a brand new EU a few years back from an authorized dealer.
Installed myself
Tuned by a professional

No problems to report, very reliable.

 

IIRC i paid that much for everything Harness + EU + A\F harness

But ive noticed mohdparts is no longer avail as far as i know(where i bought it from)

 

Yeah I looked at IPSmotorsports and they can get it for $650 with a harness. That's the cheapest I've found it.

*Sigh* I'll probably just have to do that. I'm tempted to use my credit card on this...

And I spoke to the guy who sold it to me. He's convinced that I screwed it up somehow. Not blaming him or anything but since the unit started his car and mine didn't start with it and I had those trippy, elusive issues with my injectors and car not wanting to shut off.

So I can't even get a dime of my money back. Someone should make this thread a sticky to warn other Maxima owners to be very wary of buying used E-manage Ultimates.

Product of Korea, were you still interested in testing out my EU just to make sure something is wrong with it?

 

Yeah man i wouldnt have a problem with that.

PM sent

 

Good luck getting one brand new. I remember when I bought a vafc used...never again, from that day I said especially with engine management it is better to get it brand new cause if the car doesn't start or run right it just sux. Mastercater7 had an EU that was acting up and it was because of other items tapped off the ecu power wire. It is possible if there is an electronic repair place (they repair tvs and steroes) they may be able to give you a free diagnostic. They basically would look at the components with an o scope. If they find what's wrong and can get the replacement part it's worth a shot.

 

Yeah, I saw your thread about getting a bad VAFC.

Did you buy your E-manage from an authorized dealer or did you buy it somewhere else new? Because I think GReddy will only warranty something bought from an authorized dealer (stupid.)

I'm expecting a call back from GReddy to see what they say about me shipping my EU back to TRUST to see if they can actually repair it. That would get a from me, because then I can have my cams installed and move on to my chassis already.

I'll take a look at some electronic repair places in my area and see what they can do as well.

 

So I got something figured out with GReddy, they quoted me to ship my Ultimate to TRUST in Japan. It'd cost me $200.

They can't guarantee fixing it either which is the sucky part. I'm going to go buy a new one. The guy on the phone was nice and although he said TRUST might not even accept EUs that weren't warranteed anymore, but he said he'd talk to his GM about seeing what they could do.

 

Bump!

GReddy E-manage group deals are now available. Let's get 20 people together and get them for less than $500!

>>Here

 

Product of Korea recieved my eManage Ultimate today.

And it's working in his car

Updates >>here

 

i am a little cautious when it comes to used electronics.. I guess you just have to pay and pray. If the first one didnt work why didnt you try to get your money back from the seller?

 

Tried to, he basically said tough ****. But the EU works now...


...in someone else's car.