by taking out the power rod in the 00vi, how is the 00vi going to open or when you take it out its open all the time

 

its open all the time. Low end loses power.

 

why would low end loose power if it would be open all the time

 

because that's what the 1000 threads about the always open 00VI say...

 

not enough force in the air being sucked in due to the inside of the 00vi being "larger" without the rod.

 

+1

On a stock A32 ecu i wouldnt worry to much. The timing isnt that aggressive. Hell i have advance the crap out of my timing and i still use the resistor.

 

i understand now thanx

 

So yesterday I tried the resistor trick with my dad. And we tried vaious different things and techniques. We came to the conclusion that there was no real noticable difference in power so my knock sensor is working causing the ecu not to be in safe mode.

While out my dad finally heard a squeaking noise I have been hearing for a while now and it is coming from the front of the car. So when we got back we put it on our lift and inspected it to try and find the problem and came to find out that my wheel bearings on both sides are bad. So while the knock sensor trick was unsuccessful I found out what the annoying squeaking was. My dad came to thinking that since the wheel bearings are bad that could also be what could be causing the loss of power cause the numbers are what is being put down to the wheels.

 

Very interesting about the wheel bearings, that could cause a 5-10hp loss I'm sure. Also, those numbers I originally quoted where when I was thinking you were 5-speed, but I still feel your numbers are 5-10 shy of where they should have been, and a wai wouldn't hurt to try either. Just curious= any transmission work done? If the car is put back on the ground with no axles in place it will destroy them both.

Knock sensors resistors & safety= not a problem, I've done a bunch, even if you don't run 93 the worst you'll get is a slight ping during light throttle acceleration.

Power rod removal= don't do it, street fun & track times will surely drop, especially on an auto with stock rev-limit.


OK, now, I'd really like it if anyone has some insight as to why I couldn't adjust the a/f below 5k, I could go up or down 10 and there was ZERO difference. I double checked all the sensor settings and everything appeared to be set & reading correctly.

In the vafc-II, there is no seperate L-vt & H-vt tuning screen right? Just low & high throttle I beleive. If there is I couldn't find it, plus the screen shows rpm above & below the activation point w/the bar in the middle and allows you to tune on both sides of it, but is there some weird setting I missed that is causing no changes during L-vt? I'm just wondering because on the ride home it was driving me crazy and I started thinking that all of the s/vafc-II tuning I've done has always been on a 5.5 gen or 4/5 gens that weren't using the rpm activation, and i couldn't help but correlate the rpm were I couldn't tune happens to be below the activation point.

james if it turns out to be a simple setting in the afc I missed I'll give you a free re-tune, if it's something else I'll still hook you up big time on the 2nd go around, maybe have some fun and try stock 5.5 airbox vs wai

 

did you reset ECU when attempting the Resistor/knock sensor test?

 

Well if the numbers are only shy 5-10 and you think the wheel bearings coul cause that amount of wheel power loss maybe that's my only issue. And does being an auto really make that amount of difference when it comes to putting power to the wheels. Yes I have done slight tranny work a tranny cooler dr mod and I even replaced my tranny sump at one point but never put the car on the ground with no axles in place.

And well my names not james it's Stephen but ugh yeah that sounds good if that applies to me as well as whoever James is. I'll replace the wheel bearings asap and make up a wai to use for dyno purposes and then I'll hit you up for a retune/dyno.
Ugh seeing as no one said anything about doing so I did not reset the ecu. Would that make much of a difference because I was reading how a maxima knock sensor works and it is only used in emergencies or under high loads.

 

Yes, when its working normal, it does work under those conditions. Though if it is not working normal, it puts it in safe mode. You will need to reset the ECU after you put the resistor in and see if that helps.

 

Back to work....

 

disconnect the knock sensor and drive around without it. Is there any difference?

 

Anyone have any insight as to why I can't do anything with the tune pre 5k?

Sorry Stephen, I don't know why I was thinking your name was James, oooops.

 

might be something with he ecu? Today I was running an OBD scan on a friends car and he was in open loop 100% of the time. Idle, cruising, WOT. The OBD system just saw open loop and nothing else. He might be in closed loop til 5k, just a wild guess...

 

Any updates Blackmax?

 

bump???

 

Sweet! Thank you for this. This will get my KS working for the time being until I can take off the IM and swap it out. 14's here I come (N/A auto 3.0, no headers).

For anyone else that needs help or information on the knock sensor and/or the symptoms of a bad KS, here is a great link for you to read up on. Enjoy!

http://forums.maxima.org/1732415-post27.html