So has anyone successfully do this mod with no issue ?

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3011

Since my tear down , im doing research on this mod , but if I recall the FWD is blocked off , so has anyone drilled into the block for this mod ?

I dont recall any threads to bolt these peice down


Even tho the casting is differnt from a RWD and FWD VQs ,has anyone considered even doing this mod ? or has it even been done yet ?

I cant seem to find any info on here (search) with this info.

I know I bought it up a awhile ago and MDeezy responded but that was about it.

Im planning to use the HR H/G already , im sure this would benifit from this mod but is it necessary ?

Inputs ?

Thanks!

 

Well maybe I found my answer
http://my350z.com/forum/2467489-post24.html

Either this is TravisS13 or someone else on the board.

I guess I will drilled out the block for this mod


EDIT : still want to hear my input !

 

Exactly what Travis said.

I had a junk 2001 Pathfinder engine and one of the 350Z guys bought all the coolant piping off of me. That is when I found out about this modification for RWD VQ35s.

You can use all that secondary DEK coolant piping on a FWD VQ35. I'm 95% sure it will be be a bolt on upgrade, you just have to dremel out that part on the block. It should help with the cooling on cylinders 5 & 6, especially cylinder 5 which from my experience gets the hottest.

This is one of the reasons I swapped in a VQ30DEK engine instead of getting a '95~'99 DE engine. Even though im N/A I run all out on roadcourses mostly in the Summer. The DEK secondary cooling system combined with the Griffin radiator provides excellent and consistant cooling. My OBD2 datalogger shows that temps never exceed 205 F even with 100 degree ambient temps.

 

So your saying your using the DE-K coolant pipe ?

Any pics of that setup ?

*im too lazy to check my car outside and the car in the garage right now

Glue to my seat watching NFL and being lazy sucks ! *


But what I like to know is , how many have drilled/dremel out the block for this mod ?
do you completely bore out the square hole ?

 

my friend did this on his vq swapped 4th gen he drilled the hole for the coolant and there was oil flowing there so travis was wrong the blocks are not the same so I think it cannot be done on a fwd vq35

 

He may have drilled to far and hit an oil line. It shouldn't be drilled, i've seen this coolant port stopper on VQ35 blocks and it is a very thin casting. Alot of 350Z/G35 guys have done this mod with success. The VQ30DEK, VQ40DE, and VQ35 Pathfinder engines come with this coolant stuff from the factory. I doubt the VQ35 FWD blocks are that different internally.

Beyond that I won't argue with you about it until I get my hands on a FWD VQ35 block and try it out for myself. I have the Pathfinder block, VQ30DE, and VQ30DEK block but not a VQ35.

 

Yups your friend is right

There isnt a way around it , if you drilled into it , it goes directly to oil,
The RWD block must have differnt casting , I dont have a spare one on hand.
But sure no way to be drilled, I looked at the short block all day at work.

 

Yeah I wouldn't say for certain cause I've never taken a FWD VQ35 block apart. It's funny cause that bolt pattern on the VQ35 looks similar to the pattern on the VQ30DEK coolant port. I wonder why those port and holes are even there? Must of been casting leftovers or something.

 

hmm...missed this thread but the block castings for RWD vq35 and FWD vq35 are different. Infact that is the largest difference between the rew and fwd, most to the rest of the parts are identical. Its very possible that the rwd block got additional passages for cooling, given that it will be in a car that is expected to be pushed harder than the flagship fwd family sedan.

still would be nice to have both block to compare side by side....I know...like that will happen anytime soon...

 

Well from looking at this



it seems to be the same as the FWD motor up top.

I cant seem to find any images on a pathy vq35 or vq40s frontier

Im still puzzle how this acutally works , the casting is blocked off from the images, so do the acutally drill into it ?
or does the water just sits in the hole (which doesnt make sense)

cant seem to find solid evenidence on my350z either.

 

Well I called Z1 and they told me they acutally drilled into the pathfinder sending unit.

The peice where it bolts doesnt do a thing supposely.

Imma call up GTM later on on the west coast

 

If you look at the RWD block you will see it doesn't go down, but to the sides is where the open decks are. If you drill or cut down then you will get into the oil gully. IIRC

 

Yes it doesnt , which is why do the Z guys do this upgrade ?

Unless you drill to the side where the cyclinders wall is at , I dont see how this really cools the back of the block.

Unless having two Tstats keep the temp all around flowing ?

I dont see why on the Pathy bolts into the block , what that acutally does ?
water is just going to sit in there Unless you drill to the side and not downwards in the oil gully.

If you drilled two holes then I can see where the water can flow thru the sleeves.

Im still puzzle about this, they say the pathy does alot of towing and what not , I have no heard of a FWD VQ overheat or have cooling issues.

Yet im looking at the pathy setup and trying to figure out what excatly does it cool ?

I guess i'll post this on the Z fourms as well.

 

what it does is increase the rate in which the water is flowed around the block and heads

though i don't know what the extra thermo does or how it would help

 

yeah thats what I keep reading from them but it doesnt excatly explain how , in any case its a puzzling matter , I wouldnt be concern about this but im putting my motor toghter so I figure I would do these mods before it goes in the car.

 

honestly if it were me, i'd cut the hole but keep the plate on and have that be a source for coolant for the turbo

 

Why not just have someone with a DE-K undo their setup and take pix instead of trying to reinvent the wheel?

 

you mean the coolant pipe or the exam the block itself ?

I somewhat dug up some old threads on 350z and found somewhat what im looking for.

Are you saying the DE-K Coolant pipe works the same ? or are you mean the block itself ?

 

This weekend I will take pics of the DEK block I have.

The cooling pipe looks similar to the DE pipe but it has a secondary thermostat that opens at a slightly higher temperature than the primary thermostat IIRC. I think the idea was to maintain a normal engine temp for emissons and fuel economy reasons but have the secondary system activate when the engine gets to hot.

 

Nizmo just get an oil pan spacer kit, oil cooler kit, aftermarket radiator, Mishimoto low temp thermostat, transmission cooler kit, and some hyperlube or royal purple coolant additive. I recommend also while you have the engine out, getting Ceramic coating on the block and exhaust and intake manifolds. You live in Florida so you shouldn't need a block heater/warmer. Ohh I am curious, what internals are you putting in your engine? I am writing up my grocery list and want to make sure I am not missing anything. I am building toward strengthening the block for a two stage nitrous kit.

 

if your not aware of it Ive already have a AAm spacer kit and a larger oil pan,
and oil cooler, You will also remember im not longer a 5AT.

having a low Tstat isnt the best thing to do for our VQs, not only that some Mishimoto products is garbage.
We had 2 Mishimotor Rads on a customers car that crack by the bottle neck because of the welds.
The welds are there BUT when they polished it they took too much off those welds and they tend to leak.

Im having a rad made by a shop down here instead of waiting for the other thread to appear which probally is cheaper.

I do NOT buy into those royal purple or anything that sort fluids, The most I would run is the Redline waterwetter which has proven itself.
Negative to Cermanic Coating, the only peice that will be jett coated is the manifold and downpipe.

The VQs do not have any issue with overheating.
This is just a mod / thread to see whats out there since Im putting the motor back toghter.

If you want a list PM me , I want to stay on topic about this

 

I meant the block itself since we all know that the PF and DE-K secondary
cooling systems operate on the same basic principal; giving the coolant in the rear of the block a shortcut out when temperatures exceed a pretermined amount. The block itself will give us clues as to how to avoid hitting oil, if at all possible.

 

yeah I just took at look at my DE-K and notice the coolant pipe looks the same as the PF.

Looking at the block right now at work , the only way to make this work if we drill the sidewalls of the square peice thru the wall.
Now were getting water traveling thru the walls/outer sleeve.

That is the only way I can see this running efficent so that water will flow, otherwise the water just sits there.
We cant drive straight down cause thats the oil going thru there.

Im 50/50 about drilling the walls to make it work.
Do you see any downside ? As long as I dont drll thru the sleeves it looks like I'll be fine, I have to mill down the block for the HR H/G anyways.

 

This is what im planning to do , What do you guys think ? /

if I can drill thru the sidewalls and thru the walls , we should be able to use the DE-K or PF coolant line, Now I can see the coolant passing thru the cyclinder walls /sleeves to cool the rear of the block.

If you dont drill the water just sits in that pocket , which doesnt make any sense.
and you cant drill downwards because it goes to the oil journal.

what do you guys think ?

 

DEK block with the coolant passage. That oil line is there but there are slight openings for coolant to flow through.

 

^^ so there is a coolant passage thru the oil line ? hmmm

 

Yeah they are off the sides of that big oil line. They are kinda small so be careful if you do decide to drill on a FWD VQ35 block.

 

^^ wait is that a DE-K 3.0 motor block or a RWD ?

In any case it seems like I may drill thru it

 

It's a VQ30DEK block I got out of a '00 Maxima.

 

Bro in all honestly, I dont think the pathy coolant mod is worth it man. Since your tearing apart your block, the best way to go is witht he HR gasket and coolant passage modification, that plus a 350z tstat and your set bro. im at 15psi, probably around 400-420whp, and I have not had a SINGLE cooling problem, actually even when its hot out, when I floor it my temps starts to go down instead of up. the HR gasket flows coolant way better than DE, plus with the modification of the block to allow more flow, thats all you need man. I got about 6k on my motor, beating on it like crazy, and no heating issue, actually i sometimes think its running too cold, thats how efficient my cooling system is, btw I also have a stock radiator (aluminum one didnt impress me and didnt see any benefit, i have it in my shed collecting dust). my coolant mix is about 80% water, 20% coolant, plus a single bottle of water wetter.