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VQ35 / 350Z Heads / 350Z ECU Build

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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 11:27 PM
  #81  
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Looks like I may have to mess with this Uprev stuff, too.

You're using a 350z ECU, correct? It doesn't need the BCM to interact with NATS does it? Or, can you switch off NATS with Uprev?

Does Uprev allow you to modify, starting from the factory tune, or, do you have to start from scratch?

I've tuned Electromotive and Haltech.. just never messed with any of this semi-standalone stuff. I just want to make sure that it's user friendly, and isn't in complicated code form (such as LS1edit).

Travis

Last edited by TurboS13Hatch; Mar 10, 2010 at 11:36 PM.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:26 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Big J
It's super simple. We used 3/4 steel spacers (you could go longer) and longer bolts for the side mounts, and then changed the crossmember mounts. If you used the nylatron mount bushings it would be just as easy as re-drilling the holes and adding spacers to your current setup.
Can you elaborate on the crossmember mount change? Im not certain how the mounts on these sentra swaps are made, but if theres any comparison to maximas this engine drop would be extremely useful to me
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:36 AM
  #83  
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pro tuner version will do NATS disable and MIL disable, you can't get/buy the pro tuner version w/o meeting criteria. I have it, it's a long story, but it's 100% legit.

Each license is for access to one ECU, which ever ECU is flashed. After the patched ROM is loaded you have access to everything and start w/ the factory maps and tune from there. WAY WAY easier than a standalone but just as much functionality, except for stuff like boost control, 2-step etc. You get real time tuning, map trace which makes tuning a cinch. up to 5 maps can be stored on each ECU. Works for the QR too, just not as feature rich as for the VQ.

With an aftermarket MAF the factory ECU will support 700+ hp. Just about whatever you want it to do, it'll do
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:39 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Gemner
Can you elaborate on the crossmember mount change? Im not certain how the mounts on these sentra swaps are made, but if theres any comparison to maximas this engine drop would be extremely useful to me
easy way to do it would be to drop the crossmember the same distance you drop the other mounts. Or have someone turn solid mount inserts out of derlin or pvc and redrill the holes offset to match the drop you put on the side mounts.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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here are some screen shots




Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:43 AM
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 02:52 AM
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Looks straight forward.. What's the "criteria" for getting a Pro version?
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 03:10 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Big J
easy way to do it would be to drop the crossmember the same distance you drop the other mounts. Or have someone turn solid mount inserts out of derlin or pvc and redrill the holes offset to match the drop you put on the side mounts.

You think you could grab a picture of the passenger side mount next time youre in the shop? I understand the changes to the other three mounts, but it seems like there might be a significant mounting style difference on the passenger side mount. I just dont see how that one could be lowered. Thanks, and sorry for mudding up your thread
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 05:57 AM
  #89  
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The driver and passenger mounts are easy. Buy longer bolts and spacers, install, done.

We have Travis' Ver 1.0 mounts which are a plate on top of the maxima block mount, then the SER mount bolts to the plate, offset about an inch. It really should be offset another 1/2 inch, once clearanced for Bank 2 VTC. The spacer is placed b/w the SER mount and the maxima block mount. There is some distance b/w the PS bracket and the frame, so I think it can move back more to line up with the drivers/tranny mount alignment.

Last edited by smokinjoe; Mar 11, 2010 at 06:17 AM.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:58 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Gemner
Can you elaborate on the crossmember mount change? Im not certain how the mounts on these sentra swaps are made, but if theres any comparison to maximas this engine drop would be extremely useful to me
Meximax did this a few years ago when he did his 6-speed/vq35 swap into an A32. Look up a few posts of his. They should be helpful.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by TurboS13Hatch
Looks straight forward.. What's the "criteria" for getting a Pro version?
you have to have a shop w/ a dyno and then buy in
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #92  
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Well, that rules uprev out for my project..
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #93  
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The car should be running in the next couple days, On Time and On Budget. I'm very very proud of what we've accomplished so far.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #94  
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it'll be interesting to see what everyone in the NASA orginazation starts saying after the first few showings, especially when the car is pulling Vettes and M3's on long straights.

There are very few FWD cars running in NASA in the South East, they do have the Honda Challenge series, but noone runs it in the SE

Last edited by Big J; Mar 11, 2010 at 12:07 PM.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Justin - Gary has asked you to write for the www.thegarageblog.com and showcase our racing.

Aaron, expect to see NWP shown well.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe
Justin - Gary has asked you to write for the www.thegarageblog.com and showcase our racing.

Aaron, expect to see NWP shown well.
Will, do. You ready to be interviewed?
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #97  
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hopefully the wiring will get finished tomorrow
Old Mar 17, 2010 | 11:44 AM
  #98  
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Any updates?
Old Mar 17, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Its coming together nicely. We have most of the switches done in the cabin, just a couple wires left to connect and we'll be able to start it up. This weekend should be exciting.

Now Justin wants to run TTB. More HP, less weight.. harder (read ridiculous) competition.
Old Mar 24, 2010 | 07:52 PM
  #100  
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I'm going tomorrow to tie up the last few wires, then the harness and ECU work *should* be done. Should fire shortly after, a few break in miles, and then some dyno tuning.

with the old 180hp 4 banger, looking at track records, Joe would have been placing well in TTB. The car only need to make up 4-6 seconds over the old 180hp motor to take first place finishes in TTB......

If the combination works well, and Joe wants more for 2011..... I see an E85 conversion and an intercooled twinscrew supercharger (Whipple, Kenne Bell, Sprintax, Lysholm) setup in the future. Keep the 11:1 compression and strap a blower on.
Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:16 AM
  #101  
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What gauge cluster are you running? the spec v one? 05?
Old Mar 26, 2010 | 08:51 AM
  #102  
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probably an 04 cluster
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #103  
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did some pimp *** suspension work and fabrication last night and this morning..... cut into wiring time though, so, as always, still have some wiring to do.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #104  
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Nice, can't wait to see the time on track.
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 01:34 PM
  #105  
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pics





Old Mar 30, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Nice
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:15 AM
  #107  
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made a new y-pipe


Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #108  
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Lookin good!
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #109  
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Just curious why you didn't go with a equal length y pipe. Is there much of a difference?
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by tuko316
Just curious why you didn't go with a equal length y pipe. Is there much of a difference?
I wanted to run a dual exhaust..........

You can't make it equal length, that's the only bad thing about a FWD V-6, not really enough room to do it....
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #111  
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Awesome work! How close is it to being up and running?

Originally Posted by Big J
I wanted to run a dual exhaust..........

You can't make it equal length, that's the only bad thing about a FWD V-6, not really enough room to do it....
Sure you can. It's just a pita and the extra bends may negate any hp increase.
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by 505max94se
Awesome work! How close is it to being up and running?


Sure you can. It's just a pita and the extra bends may negate any hp increase.
Needed a 90 pipe to hook up the radiator hose and all the stores were closed... Should be filled with fluids, exhaust finished, dash back in, ecu bolted in place, a few loose wires to tie up....... should fire this weekend

if not, there will be a LOT of trouble shooting....... a lot.....
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 07:41 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Big J
made a new y-pipe


Dont know if the piping runs this close to the oil pans on the maximas, but for racing, it was unacceptable.

Old Apr 1, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #114  
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Here's my setup on my 92 Maxima VQ35 swap:

Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #115  
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That's exactly the y-pipe pic I was thinking about, Aaron.
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by 505max94se
That's exactly the y-pipe pic I was thinking about, Aaron.
With the cramped space I had to work with, I HAD to go with an equal length style. The RH header curves towards the block and it would make it tough to design it like Big J did. For my Maxima, I had no choice but to go with this design.
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:42 PM
  #117  
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That's some beautiful fab work. What headers are those?? The Altima headers, or catman?

I would have loved to redone the collectors too and run a dual exhaust.
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 03:30 AM
  #118  
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Those are the Altima headers..

I fabbed up a Y-pipe for those on a customer's car..

It's tough to get it exactly equal length, before the collector.. especially in the Spec V's chassis. Tight squeeze!

This one is equal in length, to within 1/2"..



Here's one that's not exactly equal length, but, damn close..



Both sound SO sweet.. The power gains are decent, but, I love to build them just for the sound!

Travis
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 07:35 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Big J
That's some beautiful fab work. What headers are those?? The Altima headers, or catman?

I would have loved to redone the collectors too and run a dual exhaust.
Yeah, they are the cheap ebay Altima headers. In order to get more room on the RH header, the flange had to be cut off and rewelded a couple inches higher up. This gave us enough room to make some kind of Ypipe.

The Ypipe was built by Ron at RJ's Custom Piping in Raleigh, NC. He's the only mandrel bender in the state.
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #120  
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I wanted to run duals and then make up the length in front of the gas tank because the exhaust exits infront of the passenger wheel.



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