I'm currently overhauling a vq30 for my 2000 max. these are pictures i took of my cams. my question is about the brown rings that are on them. is this normal or am i looking a problem? Thanks in advanced.

 

Those rings are there on purpose, they are to identify the cams when installing them to make sure you dont put them in the wrong location. Take a look at the FSM you'll need it for your overhaul, it has all the details including the brown rings.

 

im sorry.. but i dont see no rings. lol oh wait. brown rings..sorry its early still
i am currently doing the same **** in my vq30 at school. according to the fsm there is a procedure you need to follow to take the cams out. with out bending ****. and to also a procedure to check the cams out according to specs. i advice you just like the other guy to get a fsm. hell you cant take off the timing cover or the intake with out a removing sequence. dont go any further till you get a fsm. if you cant find one shoot me a pm and i can email you a copy. also i dont think you can mix them up. theres markings on the actuall cam that tell you whats wat.

 

Thanks, haha found it, i have the FSM. i was following the removal procedures and the paint marks weren't mentioned till the installation section.

Cool, what are your plans for your engine?

But yeah thanks, i have been following the FSM procedures. as far as checking all the dims and what not i dont have the equipment (or experience) so i was just gonna take them to a machine shop and have the check it for me.

 

well we got a machine shop in school.
its actually the class im in. im tring to get the teacher to let me install the sleeves for the 350z. 100mm darton mid sleeves according to my measurements it should fit.
i also read some one where that the vq40 crank fits if i turn the crank to vq30 specs for the main caps. if i cant get it bored out 100 mm then ill just keep the 93mm pistons and then i should have somethign close to a 3.8l vq..
but all this is speculation i might be wrong. also if your cams are out of spec. you can get vq35 cams and they fit with the adapter. that way youll open her up a little.

 

cool cool, sounds intense. yeah i wanted to do the vq35 cams, do you know where to get the adapter?

 

I tryed taking the heas bolt off yesterday, those things are on there tight. the fsm says to remove in 2-3 steps, but i couldt get them to budge. and i dont think and impact wrench is an option...right?

 

You need a breaker bar with a pipe extension to get those suckers off. At least I did..

 

+100kazillion.

 

haha, gg, went and bought a 1/2" drive breaker-bar they were of in a minute

 

 

 

What is the Max lift I can have on the aftermarket cams so i dont have to replace my stock pistons? ive looked through the FSM trying to figure it out, couldn't conclude anything. searched and found nothing. some help please?

oh and BTW i cleaned up all/most the part, its looking good =).
will post pics when i get a chance.

 

mmm burnt pistons, how many miles were on your engine jflores ?

Thats alot of carbon

 

who cares about the motor..

what kind of marshal is that in the background...

 

I need the All motor gurus t check me on this.

After Doing tons of research and calculations. here is what i have concluded:

Yes, rap rate is an importan factor but since cam manufactures don't give you any info on that, it is safe to assume that it is as quick as safely possible (spring fatigue life), and it will not have an effect on the clearances needed... the rotation and position of the cams and valves are restricted by the ratios between the cam gear and drive gear ( crank shaft).

To determine if i will have interference between the valve and the piston ( colossal failure) I need to determine where the valve will be located when my piston is at top dead center (TDC) this is a function of

1. Duration
2. Lift
(arguably, indirectly ramp rate)

I have found that my intake valve will be 1.34% or 0.11457mm Open (opening) when i reach TDC.

Similarly, Exhaust will be 1.29% or 0.11637mm Open ( Closing) @ TDC.

I also found that:
Max lift (intake): piston is 44.386mm from TDC
Max lift (exhaust): Piston is 46.02mm from TDC

These Values are for stock components (VQ30DE-K) of course.

I will set-up and excel sheet where i can plug-in my lift and duration to find where what my Open Dimension is anywhere in the cycle, this way i will know if the cams I'm considering will work or not. with the slope of that curve i can find my ramp rate (not needed but, good to know).

I will have to use clay to find the distance between valve (closed) and piston at TDC though.

If you have taken the time to read this whole thing and have questions or think i made a mistake feel free to ask/tell me.

 

It has 187k on it. is it worse than it should be?

HAHAHA, one of my other hobbies.

 

Hey guys, is there a list of the people who have done VQ35 cams in the VQ30? i just wanna know is there are any limitations and the results they got.

I don't wanna lose too much if any low end power, are there cams that can accoplish this or will all cams take from the low end?

I received my First order in today =) now i just need to order the oil pump, water pump and overhaul gasket kit...ohh and the cams of course.

 

I know DandyMax used some VQ35 cams in his VQ30 engine with cam adaptors. The cams had similar specs to the JWT S1 VQ35 cams. His setup worked pretty well. He lost some low end but made a bit of power up top in exchange.

When I had the Maxima heads flow benched they couldn't go past 0.5" lift without binding. So no more than 12.7 mm lift, though most bolt on VQ35 cams I've seen don't go past 12 mm lift though.

I'm thinking of using the Kelford VQ35DE stage 1 or 2 N/A cams for my build. Though they might be to aggresive without VTCs and my idle is going to be like 1000 rpm.

 

Wow, those are intense haha, are you sure its not more like 1200 rpm haha. Im gonna try to get intouch with dandymax to see how feel about his set-up.

thanks man =).

 

ohman! if found dandymax's thread after tuning, Im even more excited now.

http://forums.maxima.org/dyno-discus...k-ruh-roh.html

... =/ all i need now is more money for part lol.

 

Update:

I Ended up getting a set of Nismo R cams-$600.
Spec's are comparable to the S1's

Today I dropped Off the heads, cams, springs,shims...etc at Same Day Heads in Fullerton.

stuff order and received:

Rev-up Oil Pump-178.54
Overhaul Gasket Kit-257.00
Front Engine Mount-74.24
Coolant Reservoir-53.88
Radiator Cap-11.50
Remaining HR Shims-29.76
Water pump-81.00


One step closer to the beginning

 

Hey YAlll! it has deff been a while. Im very close to finish up my build but I'm not sure if im putting my Stephen Max Cam adapters in right, it just feels wrong, I was hoping someone who has used them before would chime in. her is a pic of how i have the in now.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...a&id=502776547

reason why it feel wrong is because the pin is on the intake side is now 180 degrees from were it originally would go. Input please, i wanna finish it up this week.
I need to update my parts list too but ill get to that after i get the engine running.

thanks in advanced!!

 

any updates?

 

Install the cams per the FSM then put the spacers on. After you put the sprokets on it should look like the picture in the FSM. Reference the 3.5 swap threads for more detailed description. I used the same spacers on my 3.5 swap and it felt weird until I had the sprockets installed and it looked the same as the FSM pics.

 

Updates!

Finally added up how much i spent total just on part from Dave B and it came out to $1,691.20 Plus an extra 450 for new intake cams from Crower. i must say though it was very well worth it.

Hadn't updated because i was busy trying to get everything in and working

Everything is running great now, sounds amazing, Just passed smog today with no issues, well except that i had to drive alot of miles before all my Status Monitor were all complete.

I was planning on driving it for a while without tunning it. Does anyone see any issues with that? Moncef, if you could chime in on that.

Im trying to find a Dyno near by so i can see what just the cams, springs...etc did, i def lost some low-end torque and HP but i'm hoping i can fix some of that with the tuning, on the top end i can really feel the power increase. Also, it stalls at idle sometime usually when its warm...oh and my mileage kinda blows now, ahaha.

as far a vids, I'm a noob, but ill try to figure it out.

 

Pictures!

 

 

350z Thermostat

 

thanks, i was able to get in touch with Stephen-Max and he set me straight