they hit the fourth gen baffle? I don't understand what would change as far a clearences are concerned with just adding aftermarket rod bolts. Why can't I just remove the 3.5 baffle and run the 3.0 upper oil pan with baffle?

 

You know, I installed ARP rod bolts on my previous 3.5, and used a 3.0 upper and lower oil pan and didn't have any clearance problems. My newest built 3.5 has the Carr-head on the Carrillo rods, and they don't hit the 3.0 pan baffle - I made sure to check that after seeing streetz's comments.

???

 

When me and Grant did his swap, we ran into interference with the 3.5 girdle mounted baffle and the 3.0 oil pan baffle. What we ended up doing is removing the baffle from the oil pan of the 3.0 motor and just retaining the 3.5 girdle mounted baffle. We didn't have any problem with clearance, granted that was with stock rod bolts. I don't know if aftermarket rod bolts clear the girdle mounted baffle or not.

 

Same here for the swap I just finished. I had to remove the oil baffle from my '98 upper oil pan when bolting it to the '04 engine. But, unlike you, i did not upgrade the rod bolts or anything like that. I left that completely stock.

 

Well I will go with that then. I will take the baffle out of the 3.0 upper and bolt the 3.5 one on. I need to look at my stock rod bolts again because I don't remember there being much of a difference in the size of the head of the bolt, I am not really understanding the clearance problems people are describing, but I am also not looking at the bolts side by side.

Okay, that is what I will try. Thanks for the advice.

 

I have a random question about a mounting point for the axle bracket where it bolts to the block. One of the bottom two mounting points is broken out, the previous owner had JB welded it back together, but it is not holding very well. Should I find a shop that can weld aluminum to fix it, or is it that important enough to fix? I will post a picture of what I am talking about tonight.

 

I just had a "DUH" moment here. I've built a 2002 and 2005 engine, and neither one had a girdle-mounted oil baffle - heck, I didn't even know they existed separate from the oil pan. The 2002 and 2005 engines were purchased with the OEM oil pans attached, and I removed both of them - no girdle baffles. Both were later assembled with 3.0 oil pans.

I see them in FSMs, now that I look. Does that baffle attach to the girdle directly? That would have been hard to miss while installing ARP rod bolts in the 2002. Maybe I've sniffed too much race fuel....

???

 

Yes, it attaches to the girdle directly. I took it off to put the rod bolts in. I am thinking ARP would mention something if there would be a clearance problem on a esentially stock set up.

 

I would just put the oil pan on turn the motor over by hand to make sure everything clears before you seal it up

 

I was about to post the same thing. I will say that it's unnecessary to install the oil pan with the girdle mounted baffle (since it isn't attached to the baffle) to check for clearance.

 

if you need a new axle bracket, i have an extra that was attached to my motor when i picked it up. If you cover shipping, i'll send it to you.

 

Thanks George. I will let you know. My problem is not the axle bracket, it the cast part on the block that has the threads in it.

 

Oh, my bad, misunderstood what you wrote. Just lemme know, we have an as$load of spare/extra parts, should you run into any problems.

 

Is there enough meat to drill it out and insert a heli coil

 

not sure. I'll take some pictures tonight. The p/o jb welded it together. When I was cleaning some threads the other day I pushed the JB weld apart, this is one of those problems I have been trying to avoid.

 

My issue was that with the eagle rods, they come with big 3/8 2000 ARP's, so those bolts hit the 3.0 baffle. In your case, the small ARP's for stock rods wont be an issue.

 

thanks for clearing that up.

 

No problem, either way you should still put on the oil pan with no silicone, to turn the crank and see if anything hits, just bolt it up with two bolts or something. I failed to do this, so after 2 hours of putting motor in and then cranking it for the very 1st time, BAM BAM BAM BAM, I think i actually shed a tear or two lol. took it apart and it was just the baffle that was getting hit lol. So yeah, always turn the motor right before you finish it completely.

 

here are the pictures of the part of the axle bracket holding mount that are broken.







In the first pic you can see all the dried up JB weld that is still in the hole. So do you guys think I need to try to fix this or should it be fine with just two bolts holding the axle bracket in place?

 

This is for the bracket that holds the passenger side axle? In my opinion two bolts is enough support, it also has a pin to hold the bracket in place as well. That bracket dosnt really do much, just keeps the axle aligned. Thats how I think at least.

 

yes, that is what that is for.

 

I've been running a two-bolt hanger for about 10 months w/out problems (top bolt is shot), considering you have an upper, lower, and guide-pin it should be fine. But if you can get it fixed for cheap while the motor is out, I would, considering the possibility of another one stripping during future repairs and being left with 1 bolt.

 

What is the deal here? I bought these 3.5 S1 knockoff (Deuboz sp?) cams and I was getting ready to get them ready for install, but they are not the same lengenth as the stock cams. In the pictures the stock 3.5 cams are the shorter cams. Is this normal? Did I really get 3.0 cams (they seem to be longer just by eye balling them). Any insight? Thanks.

 

^ I'm not sure no bothered to to the two together and compare but if there is a part # you can try and look it up or measure the lobes and compare the results with the spec's for it

btw, I noticed the marks on the cam and was just wondering how many miles were on them and what happened to the engine they came out of

 

I am not sure of a part number for the aftermarket cams. But if they are differnent lengenths is it safe to say they cannot be used in a vq35?

I have no clue what happened to the engine that they were run in. I bought them from a member here who bought them from ghostmax301. They were sold to him in good working condition and they were sold to me in good working condition. What would the marks indicate? I have only ever swapped one cam before (chevy camaro, OHV engine) so this is all kinda new to me.

 

not saying anything is wrong with them just that they seeing how they are aftermarket they should have less miles on them than the oem cams but they show signs of having a decent amount of wear in comparison to the oem's. If you look at the 2nd pic then compare the swipe marks on the journals and lobes on the new cams vs the 3.5 cams, the 1st two lobes and journal show signs other alot more wear.

I was just wondering if the motor they came out of had a stock or revup oil pump and what rpm it was being rev'd it. also if it lost oil psi on that half of the motor causing the marks.

 

I really don't know. I agree that they look like they have more wear than the stock cams. I guess I really just want to know if you guys think I should or even can use these cams on a 3.5 engine. What do you have to say about the difference in the lengenth stock v. aftermarket?

 

They don't look like they're for a 3.0 (notched for 3.5 cam sensor) - they look like 3.5 deluboz's to me. Do a mock install to see if there's a problem.

And those lobes look fine, the black is just starting to wear off. If you have a dial caliper its easy to check the max lift and various points of consistency between lobes for peace of mind.

 

FWIW, here are photos of my deluboz S1 knockoff cams before installation.

 

okay, I will test fit them tonight. What do I need to know about installing them other than adding a buch of cam lube when I do it? Any tricks of the trade to install them properly?

 

There's a couple of things - be sure that you know exactly where the caps for the cam journals go - the FSM has a good guide for that. When tightening down those bolts, go slow or you can snap a cam. Torque the bolts in the rotation shown in the FSM. Comp Cams assembly lube is good - bearings and lobes.

Check valve lash carefully - you'll have to mount the cams first, then rotate the engine. You may have to replace some if too loose, or swap with tight ones. I found a trick for tight lifters on the 3.5 - look at one flipped over - you see that little stem sticking up? That can be shortened with a small rotary grinder, which opens up the lash.

 

Did deluboz make various 35de cams?

I was told mine are 0.426" 262(i) 256 (e) (closer to Nismo R-tune), but the ones listed on: http://www.delubozparts.com/ProductC...idproduct=1660 are listed as .428" 262 (i/e) (closer to JWT-S1 clones).

 

When I was searching for a set, I only heard of them matching the JWT S1 cams in various postings - including a grumpy posting from Jim Wolfe about people trying to copy his cams.

I'll add that I was pleased with these cams' performance. They have a lumpy idle and pull well at the top end.

 

What do you mean, when you say "exactly where the caps for the cam journals go"? I will look at the FSM tonight. Thanks for the advice on the bolts. I already have Permetex engine assembly lube (the red stuff)

As for valve lash, I did not think I would have a problem since I did not alter the heads. I will need to do this once the timing chains have been put back on correct?

 

Yup, read the manual and you'll see. Valve lash depends on the cam profile when changing cams - no guarantee that the next set of cams is identical to the last, so you gotta check. Yes, the timing gears and chains must be installed first - then rotate as per the FSM and check valve lash for all 24 lobes and see what you have. You might get lucky...

 

since I cannot see the FSM right now, can you tell me what tool to use to measure the valve lash? Hopefully it is something I already have or something I can pick up on my way home. Thanks for the help.

 

I use a set of feeler gauges that I got at Sears - they have a 45 degree angle bend in them, which you will need - also the set needs blades with .001" between blades. ( .010, .011, .012 etc)

 

Is this the one you got? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0802000P?mv=rr

it does not list the exact sizes so I am not positive that it moves in .001 increments.

 

That's the one. If you go to your Sears link and hover your mouse over the blades, you can see (anyway, I can) the markings on some of the blades - and they're in .001" increments. I likee this tool - and the straight-blade one they also make.

 

^^ I picked up those feeler gauges today.
This is a picture of where I lined up the inner timing cover to see what bolt holes needed to be enlarged. I did not take any after pics but you can see where I marked the area in red.




Here are a few pictures from the other day when I cleaned up some of the parts. Scraping/removing gasket material is so much fun. I scrapped everything then used scrubbie pads to get all of the material out, then I power washed off what gunk I could.